CreepingJesus Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 I'm having flashbacks to misbehaving, worn out Pierburg 2E3's in my Vxl days...you weren't there man. Etc. I thought carb Volvos were all Strombergs? cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 I'm having flashbacks to misbehaving, worn out Pierburg 2E3's in my Vxl days...you weren't there man. Etc. I thought carb Volvos were all Strombergs?Apparently not, mine is, apparently a pierburg. I've not seen any identifying marks though I'm going by what the previous owner purported. CreepingJesus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 check the inlet to head gasket for leaks , the gasket can creep over time , mine needed sorting when I had a lumpy tickover . cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 and also the carb to inlet manifold gasket , that goes all hard and lets air in at tickover , sometimes whines and whistles to give the game away cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 check the inlet to head gasket for leaks , the gasket can creep over time , mine needed sorting when I had a lumpy tickover .Head gasket replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 not the head gasket , the head to inlet manifold gasket ... and the carb base cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 not the head gasket , the head to inlet manifold gasket ... and the carb base IMGP8870.JPGWith photos and everything. Nice one, thanks for that I'll take a look! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 If those gaskets are ruined I presume/hope a new gasket set would be available form eBay! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 I think the leak was found by using lighter gas , it gets sucked in and cures the lumpy idle cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 I think the leak was found by using lighter gas , it gets sucked in and cures the lumpy idleOh ok, I presume the same would happen with brake cleaner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 or even good old deodorant spray ! cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 or even good old deodorant spray !OK so just spray it near the gaskets and see if it sucks it in? Often when starting her up after a long sit I have to hold revs on for a few mins then let her settle. Is that what yours was like? Thanks mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSdriver Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 If yours has the engine type with the dizzy wedged against the firewall it might have been ignored since new cpjitservices and danthecapriman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 If yours has the engine type with the dizzy wedged against the firewall it might have been ignored since new Got it in one! I haven't played with a dizzy cap and points etc for a long while, might strip it down and clean it all up. DSdriver 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 mine got very lumpy at tickover , it lost one piston due to the mixture being "thinned" out , but with having a manual choke ( remember them ! ) I could leave the revs up a bit might be worth checking all those little pipes that do the pcv bit and the fire trap , they tend to coke up and also were they go into the carb base cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 mine got very lumpy at tickover , it lost one piston due to the mixture being "thinned" out , but with having a manual choke ( remember them ! ) I could leave the revs up a bit might be worth checking all those little pipes that do the pcv bit and the fire trap , they tend to coke up and also were they go into the carb baseI have heard this but have failed to locate the flame trap! Can you show me where it would be? Mines auto choke! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 What they all said! My old 244 (2.1 B21a) had the exact problem your having. To start it up you had to keep some gas on for a while otherwise it'd splutter and cut out.It was the carburettor to inlet manifold gasket leaking air on mine. And do check your dizzy. On my 740 when I got it early this year it was still running its original (bastard to get to, back of the head!). That was causing a misfire and lumpy idle. I changed the cap and rotor arm. Both were absolutely fucked with date stamps of 1988! The rotor arm was very corroded and a right shit to get off, the cap was actually broken in half and terminals inside were almost worn through. These are without question well worth changing regardless. Flame traps are well known to get blocked with carbon and oily crud so (if you even have one) change it as it can allow the system to overpressurise and it can cause gaskets to fail and oil leaks. My old 740 saloon was so bad it used to blow its dip stick out of the tube when revved! Here's a pic of my old cap exactly as it came off the car. It was actually running with this, albeit not terribly well. IMG_0389 by Dan Clark, on Flickr cpjitservices and CreepingJesus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghosty Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 Aye, I've changed my dizzy cap too. 174k on the original cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 Ahhhh ok thanks for that fellas, definitely worth changing the cap then. I presume the cap comes with rotor arm etc...? As for flame trap.. where would I find it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 flame trap marked in yellow cpjitservices and danthecapriman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 flame trap marked in yellow IMGP8870.JPGThanks. Armed with all of this info will hopefully solve the problem. MOT next week so WILL do this after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 Flame trap location varies from car to car depending on engine/induction type but the actual flame trap itself is often a black plastic 'cup' with a press on top cover with small rubber hoses going into it. Inside it's got a circular filter element.The originals are brass with a metal filter element. Non gen replacements are usually white plastic with loads of little holes drilled through it. They cost pence to buy new (eBay) so just buy a new one and replace it.Some people however have been known to remove the inner filter element and go without it, if it's not fitted it can't get blocked! But imho you should have one. This is what your looking for: IMG_0435 by Dan Clark, on Flickr That's the plastic holder, the old blocked brass filter and new replacement. IMG_0436 by Dan Clark, on Flickr Here's the cleaned up items ready to refit. Btw, mines a Kjet injection car so is slightly different to yours but that's the basic appearance and gist! cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 Flame trap location varies from car to car depending on engine/induction type but the actual flame trap itself is often a black plastic 'cup' with a press on top cover with small rubber hoses going into it. Inside it's got a circular filter element.The originals are brass with a metal filter element. Non gen replacements are usually white plastic with loads of little holes drilled through it. They cost pence to buy new (eBay) so just buy a new one and replace it.Some people however have been known to remove the inner filter element and go without it, if it's not fitted it can't get blocked! But imho you should have one. This is what your looking for: IMG_0435 by Dan Clark, on Flickr That's the plastic holder, the old blocked brass filter and new replacement. IMG_0436 by Dan Clark, on Flickr Here's the cleaned up items ready to refit.Thanks brilliant info! What I'll do is check it out tonight when I'm home and if needs be if I cant find it I'll take some pics! Thanks all! danthecapriman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 As a quick fix you might be able to take out the old filter element and leave it soaking in some petrol of thinners over night to unblock it before popping it back in.New ones are so cheap though you might aswell just get new! cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghosty Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 Might also be worth taking the inlet manifold off. Bores on mine were full of thick, black gunk (carbon?). cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 I will do exactly what you both have suggested!! Thanks!! I will buy new parts by the way! danthecapriman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 Might also be worth taking the inlet manifold off. Bores on mine were full of thick, black gunk (carbon?). hence the wine bottle I had on the feed to the carb from the flame trap , a home made catch can for the shite , and it caught a lot !!!!! cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 It's satisfying to see all these fixing posts here. Looking forward to seeing it on the factory trims again, even though the alloys aren't that offensive to look at. cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 It's satisfying to see all these fixing posts here. Looking forward to seeing it on the factory trims again, even though the alloys aren't that offensive to look at.They arent offensive but they are too wide on the front and making the steering that bit heavier, the wheels are sold pending collection by the original owner believe or not! New wheels/tyres tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 That's cash back! Better than finding small change under the back seat. cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now