Which Rover 75?

[pandamonium]

Hello you knowledgeable and wise folk.

 

I fancy a Rover 75. Which will cause the least heartache?

[fatharris]

Early diesel manual.

 

Next.

 

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[Cavcraft]

MGZT V6.

[NorfolkNWeigh]

[sierraman]

Diesel auto I should say, at the price range they are anything could be trouble. I think the fans and the thermostat can give trouble.

[Snipes]

Auto 2.5 v6 connoisseur with black sills and wooden steering wheel.

[BorniteIdentity]

This is quite simple actually.

 

1. Early.  You want one with black sills (Cowley built) - these are the pure 75 experience, as intended, without comprimise.
2. Big petrol engine.  It's a big regal looking thing, it deserves the full blown experience.  2.5 v6 will do 36mpg on a run and mixed is easily 32.
3. Auto.  It's befitting of the car, and the clutches are expensive.

Good luck.  They are sublime cars when at their best.

[oldcars]

I have a facelift diesel and love it. 

[Guest Lord Sward]

V8.

[rovamota]

1.8 Turbo. Fast enough, cheap to run, easier and cheaper to fix - especially if the clutch goes. 

[0ldCh0d]

I have never quite considered the clutch failure on these, Is it a bastard of a job to do should the clutch fail?  Or is it just the expense that kills getting it done?

 

Curious because my 2003 75 Diesel is laid up in my garage......& has been for over a year now (Alternator regulator is fooked).

[CortinaDave]

mechanic mate said the clutch isnt too bad to do as its all fairly accessible. he likes doing them as he sees it as straightforward but a good earner.

 

worst bit is bending double to fill the clutch fluid reservoir which is in the most godawful location under the dash.

 

as to which one to get... the V6 is the one you want if fuel isnt an issue. if it is, the cdti is a decent old bus too. leave the 1800 alone

[oldcars]

mechanic mate said the clutch isnt too bad to do as its all fairly accessible. he likes doing them as he sees it as straightforward but a good earner.

 

worst bit is bending double to fill the clutch fluid reservoir which is in the most godawful location under the dash.

 

as to which one to get... the V6 is the one you want if fuel isnt an issue. if it is, the cdti is a decent old bus too. leave the 1800 alone

Good to know, what does your mate charge for a clutch change? Can see mine needing one in the next 12 months.

[Mally]

Clutch from £400 to £1000 in general depending on parts used and if they drop the subframe or just slide the box off (which is seen as a bodge by some, but not me).

Choice of model is personal, but the more gimmicks the more to go wrong, although they all seem to be the same price to buy.

I'd go for Diesel Auto, but then again I bought a manual.

Tourers have a lot of luggage space, but harder to find. The rear door stays punch holes in the body work but it's very fixable, ask me how I know.

V6 sound good, but uses more fuel, has timing belts which are difficult to get at, and can have coolant problems.

For around £700 you should get a good example. Just be aware it may break down the day after.........or run a few years with little problem.

[gadgetgricey]

Diesel auto I should say, at the price range they are anything could be trouble. I think the fans and the thermostat can give trouble.

 

Agree. Defo a diesel auto. 

 

Fan issues are caused by a resistor failing behind the bumper but can be easily fixed with the "gold" resistor.

Thermostat are a pig to change, but you can buy a kit or just put a Renault 5 thermostat in the top rad hose and works fine.

 

Also can be easily remapped to 160bhp by a few of the folks on the R75 forum.

 

Handbrake adjustment can be a bit slack as well, but can be sorted by a modified handbrake compensator. On my to do list but also available from the r75 forum

 

Personally not bothered by heated seats, but get one with cruise control.

[Brodders]

I think B.I has hit the nail on the head. An early V6 Automatic (especially if it is a launch spec model) is the essence of what the 75 is all about, and also the option least likely to cause too much trouble. Sure, the multiple belts are a pain in the arse and expensive to replace, and the VIS system can sometimes be an issue, but they have less potential for issues than the other engines.

 

However, I have used a 1.8 manual as a daily for the last year without any kittens or nuns dying (although a local garage said the head gasket had gone when all that was needed was a new thermostat). Therefore I would say you should consider the condition and the history of the car, rather than just focusing on what engine its got. It goes without saying that a good, well maintained, 1.8 is better than a neglected V6.

 

Unless of course a V8 is available. If so, buy that.

[Cavcraft]

In fairness, these in all forms seem ace cars. Yeah, they have Achilles heels, but the looks, the style and the comfort really do seem spot on to me.

[eddyramrod]

I agree with Billy, to a point.  My preference would be for a 2.5V6 auto, as early as possible.  I've had a 2.5 ZT and a 2.0 75, both manual, and wouldn't do manual again.  I also believe the 2.0V6 is the bare minimum engine the car needs.  Oh and for comfort, take the Rover version every time, there's no contest.

[Bobthebeard]

Any variant that has been properly loved and looked after. The 2.5 V6 preferably. Although thin on the ground. The earliest cars are better specs.

[Hendry]

No idea on engine, gearbox and trim spec, but for me itd have to be a prefacelift Wedgewood blue one on 16" Serpent alloys with bi xenon headlights, basically identical to Barry Cade's on the outside. Inside id want that navy blue leather with cream piping. 

 

Failing that itd have to be a facelift MG ZT in black with black leather/half leather, and probably a 2.5 V6 190+ mainly because a pal from schools dad had a 54 plate brand new and it was uber cool as fuck!

 

Strangely on a 75 itd need to be prefacelift, but facelift on a ZT, dont like the look of either the facelift 75 or the prefacelift ZT. 

 

I think the same about all Rovers and MGs from that period, the facelifts ruined the 25/45/75, but massively improved the ZR/ZS/ZT. 

[95 quid Peugeot]

I've a hankering for another RX8. There's one I've seen. But most probably need to move on one of the dailys..

Most probably be the 75. Drop me a line if you're interested. 55 plate diesel manual. All bills from new. 123k miles

[Tam]

My ultimate would be an early Moonstone green 2.5 V6 auto with green leather interior. 

I think the launch cars in Wedgewoid blue will be the first real classics. 

Never driven a V6 75 but it is on the cards soon 

[AMC Rebel]

No idea on engine, gearbox and trim spec, but for me itd have to be a prefacelift Wedgewood blue one on 16" Serpent alloys with bi xenon headlights,

<Pedant> no OEM Bi-Xenon on these - also not sure when the OEM HIDs started - but fairly sure it wasn't immediately. </pedant>

[Guest]

Hoi! Mine isn't Wedgewood.. it's mirage 2... And the headlights are powered by xzennon....

[oldcars]

Would love one with aubergine personal line interior and a leccy sunblind, Y spoke alloys. Heaven 

[0ldCh0d]

Fuck it....I am going to wheel my one out of the garage.

 

Have a Pic

 

[EssDeeWon]

The original question was  'Which one will cause the least heartache' which invariably any of the above mentioned models/engine/specs could. 

 

These are quite old now so buy on condition and service history, check the 75/ZT forum for pre-owned cherished examples.

 

The idea of a diesel manual just doesn't do it for me personally but if your open to various specs and engine types and a nice one comes up for a good price then go for it. But you may miss out on what the Rover 75 is really all about.

 

For the real Rover experience go early V6 auto, it will look, sound and feel more like a Rover should.  The KV6 is not that scary or thirsty, they are far more hardy than they often get credit for.

 

Like any old car really, buy the best one you can and avoid one from a back street dealer with cheap tyres and overspray.

 

And let me know when you buy one so I can pop over and have a look Panda 

[Roverageous]

What he ^^ said.

 

Leave the 1800 - it'll hurt you when you've fallen in love with it.

 

Diesel is hardy for 300k miles and more BUT they are diesely no matter how well they go.

 

Go V6 if you want to have a car to cherish & enjoy. Buy on condition and don't let mileage put you off - they wear it well. I recently bought a V6 connoisseur SE that is 17 years old with 100k on it.

 

I've put 2000 miles on it now, and apart from an MOT (clean, straight through) and an oil change it hasn't needed anything and don't think it will for the foreseeable.

 

I've never had a 75 fail an MOT on me

 

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[Lacquer Peel]

[Hendry]

Hoi! Mine isn't Wedgewood.. it's mirage 2... And the headlights are powered by xzennon....

Oops, I must be going blind lol still it's a lovely colour and has the best wheels for a 75!