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320tourings 1.4 VW Lupo - SELT!


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Posted

this appears to be turning into a bit of a bargain...

 

Cambelt was done in May 16, as part pf a big service..

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Posted

Hopefully the wasserpumpen was done at the same time.

 

Good stuff though, all but one of my cars (which had nothing at all) have had a useless service history, like a receipt for wiper blades in 2007, pre delivery inspection sheet or a receipt for an exhaust or something!

Posted

this appears to be turning into a bit of a bargain...

 

Cambelt was done in May 16, as part pf a big service..

Who spends big on a full service and then sells for the money you will throw at it 'just because' because I would like a chat about their next car please.

  • Like 2
Posted

When I got the car it had the Check engine light on. This seems to be a common issue and may point to Lambda issues.

 

As the car is due an MOT this week, I decided to reset the light before spending any time/effort on it.

 

If it does ok MOT wise I'll investigate further.

 

Pics below show where the OBD2 port is hidden, and the fact that I couldnt get my software to read the engine module (it read all others ok and flagged no faults).

 

Luckily the old trick of cycling the ignition worked for now.

 

I honestly think the car just needs a decent Italian tune up (and I've been driving it accordingly).

 

I'll hopefully get it in for a test on Fri or Sat.

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  • Like 2
Posted

Why do VAG always put the com ports in really weird places...

 

1.4 manual might be okay in a Lupo, same engine in a Polo with an auto was pants.

Posted

Why do VAG always put the com ports in really weird places...

 

1.4 manual might be okay in a Lupo, same engine in a Polo with an auto was pants.

I think the ports need to be within 2ft of the steeing wheel.

tbh that locatio is easy to reach:)

 

it seems to go well enough with the 1.4 but I think its a heavy car compared to say the 205

Posted

One gauge at a time eh? I bet there is an option to do a gauge sweep on startup in VAG-COM somewhere.

  • Like 2
Posted

One gauge at a time eh? I bet there is an option to do a gauge sweep on startup in VAG-COM somewhere.

likely is- I imagine it'd get on yer tits PDQ:)

Posted

I think the ports need to be within 2ft of the steeing wheel.

 

 

On early A4s it's in the rear ashtray, but IIRC it's moved on the later ones, so that might make sense. You'll need it when the EPC light inevitably comes on.

Posted

On early A4s it's in the rear ashtray, but IIRC it's moved on the later ones, so that might make sense. You'll need it when the EPC light inevitably comes on.

 

Mine was a facelift B5 A4, it was still in the rear ashtray.

 

I got VAGCOM so I could reset the service light after giving it an oil change, then spent ages looking for the OBD port. Finally googled it and my reaction was along the lines of "WTF?!"

Posted

I also did an instrument check -stand by for boring vidyah!

 

 

https://youtu.be/r1GQhL_HK6Q

The acceleration on that is immense. Must have a K&N.

Posted

Just watched yer vijos, liking your road tests! I need to do that on my 4 instead of reviewing examples that are sized some or more percentiles less than the real thing.

  • Like 2
Posted

I got home early from a delightful* trip to Derby and the neebour was out washing his MX5..

 

So i took the opporchancity to avail myself of some quality Lupo washing times..

 

WARNING CONTAINS HAWT OEM MAT ACTION

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  • Like 4
Posted

Looks cracking bud, take it you polished it after claying?

nup, wash clay wash wax
Posted

25 autoshite points awarded for thread title.

thank you! it was Electric 6 wernt it?

Posted

Yup. And now it's in my head, you fucker.

 

You can keep the points though.

Posted

nup, wash clay wash wax

Ah knew you would have put summit on there after claying. Beading shot since its raining!!

Posted

Took it for an MOT.

 

PHAIL :( rear bushes on front arms..

 

how much of a PITA are they to do?

 

or am I quicker lobbing on new arms?

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Posted

All these MOT failures you need to get yourself a nice Nissan Juke :)

 

You might not even be able to get the bushes. I doubt the arms are too expensive and probably less of a ball ache.

Posted

All these MOT failures you need to get yourself a nice Nissan Juke :)

 

You might not even be able to get the bushes. I doubt the arms are too expensive and probably less of a ball ache.

I'm no the one starting a Reggie Perrin thread;)

 

Wisdom of my tame mechanic mate is dae the arms. looks like 20ish a side for arms

Posted

Are these not like the Polo/ Ibiza/ Fabia where the bush is pressed into an ally housing in the car?  The arm then sits through the bush?

 

If so, they're an awful design that seems to fail on a yearly basis.  Be really careful of the bolt that goes through the threaded aluminium casting- if it shears, you're in the shit.  If I have one to do nowadays (sister has an Ibiza..), I remove the ally casting and do the whole job on the bench with a press.  It's more work, but..

Posted

Are these not like the Polo/ Ibiza/ Fabia where the bush is pressed into an ally housing in the car?  The arm then sits through the bush?

 

If so, they're an awful design that seems to fail on a yearly basis.  Be really careful of the bolt that goes through the threaded aluminium casting- if it shears, you're in the shit.  If I have one to do nowadays (sister has an Ibiza..), I remove the ally casting and do the whole job on the bench with a press.  It's more work, but..

It looks like they are more like the Mk1 Octavia design as per pic

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  • Like 1
Posted

I'm no the one starting a Reggie Perrin thread;)

 

Wisdom of my tame mechanic mate is dae the arms. looks like 20ish a side for arms

 

 

That's only 75% of the Jukes fault

Posted

I'm a tightwad so I pressed the old bushes out of the Caddy's wishbone with sockets and a vice.

 

Those Fabia/Polo/Ibiza bushes are indeed awful, but this Lupo is based on an older platform

  • Like 2
Posted

Front arms are the same as the 6N1/6N2 Polos, not the later 9N design with the separate alloy housing. A decent pair is around £60 including balljoints.

 

Not a bad job to replace them, if everything goes well. Make sure you have a fork-type balljoint splitter because most scissor types don't fit. Also get new bolts because they're made of cheese and you're very likely to round them off while removing them (they love to rust in place and may need a rattle gun to remove).

 

The only thing which can go seriously wrong is the captive nut inside the subframe, where the rear bolt goes. Those are welded in place and if you force the bolts too much the nut can become detached. In that case, you need to cut the subframe open to re-weld the nut in place. As one would expect, this is a royal PITA. 

 

Good luck !

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