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Domes shonky autos - Car that lived by the sea in Scotland in rust shocker*


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Posted

nice one on the new ticket but double bollocks on it pissing itself. 2 steps forward 1 back

Posted

I'm pretty sure you don't even need a blanking plate for the oil cooler. The hoses that feed the cooler come out of a plate that sits between the block and oil filter mount (I think), so you can remove the oil filter housing, remove the inch thick plate that has the oil cooler hose outlets, and refit the oil filter mounting plate.

I won't lie, I'm half remembering something from my 4.0 about 15 years ago...

Posted
6 hours ago, mercedade said:

I'm pretty sure you don't even need a blanking plate for the oil cooler. The hoses that feed the cooler come out of a plate that sits between the block and oil filter mount (I think), so you can remove the oil filter housing, remove the inch thick plate that has the oil cooler hose outlets, and refit the oil filter mounting plate.

I won't lie, I'm half remembering something from my 4.0 about 15 years ago...

This is an excellent shout, I've looked into this and it does look like I can bypass the cooler completely by removing the sandwich plate. 

I made a start tonight after work-oil filter removed to aid access and the bolts holding the filter housing and sandwich plate cracked off. It looks like I can remove the cooler feed and slap it back together. Hopefully!

 

Posted

Sounds similar to the setup on the old BMW m20s. Removing the plate at the filter end is a winning plan

  • Like 2
Posted

Ok so thanks to @mercedade today I carried on removing the filter housing complete with oil cooler sandwich plateIMG_20201009_123802198.thumb.jpg.5c8b59a43516b0ed75d7193701170f13.jpg

I chopped the lines to make it easier to get out. A quick whack with a rubber mallet and it was apart.

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Interestingly there was silicone sealant holding it all together. Factory or had someone been there before?

I cleaned up the filter housing removing the old silicon and applied some fresh. Back on with shorter bolts and I put the filter back on and topped up the oil.

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You can see the small* amount of oil it had leaked and the badly fitted hose that had been put in to bypass the cooler-the lines had been cut and the hose fitted. Badly. Anyway, that shit is in the bin.

The first candidate for the misfire was the crank sensor. Here it is, Lucas and likely original

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And the new one, sent overnight from David Manners-thanks to all who recommended them. Definitely a useful resource.

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So, this evening I set off to see if it was cured. 

I made it to the pez station.

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That's a good start! Managed 15 miles back and forth on local roads, not wanting to stray to far

There's still a bit of a misfire under load-more than a quarter throttle and it stumbles 😔

It's definitely a lot better though, I'll need to get some more miles on it and work out what to do next. Any suggestions welcome!

 

 

Posted

100% that was the crank position sensor starting to break down. Sorry, I should have told you to replace it before the MOT. Even if it turns out not to be the CPS, it needs changing.

EDIT: Ha, you literally posted the follow up from yesterday as I posted this.

Posted
9 minutes ago, Broadsword said:

100% that was the crank position sensor starting to break down. Sorry, I should have told you to replace it before the MOT. Even if it turns out not to be the CPS, it needs changing.

EDIT: Ha, you literally posted the follow up from yesterday as I posted this.

It definitely made it further and feels better with a new crank sensor! What do I do next to try and cure the misfire under load? It's like the problems still there but not as bad.

  • Like 2
Posted
46 minutes ago, dome said:

It definitely made it further and feels better with a new crank sensor! What do I do next to try and cure the misfire under load? It's like the problems still there but not as bad.

Two unrelated problems I think. The CPS was going to fail anyway. There is no particular trick to solving the running issues I'm afraid. Be systematic: check fuel, spark and air. Does it have new plugs? Has the throttle body be cleaned? Rotor arm and cap checked, leads could be on the way out too? One slightly more specialist thing to check is the fuel pressure regulator. It's on the end of the fuel rail at the front of the engine. Given that state of the fuel pump when you removed it I'm worried a load of crud and varnish has accumulated in the regulator and or injectors. Misfires and fuel starvation are easily confused. Does this one have catalytic converters?

  • Like 2
Posted

On the ignition side I've replaced

Dizzy cap

Rotor arm

Leads

Plugs.

That only leaves the coil I reckon.

Throttle body I gave a quick clean today but didn't go beyond cleaning around the throttle butterfly.

Injection side I've done nothing, and remembering that the thing only started when I whacked the injectors it's safe to assume some work is needed. 

I've read about replacing the XJ40 injectors with those from an x300. Whether or not that's worthwhile I'm not sure but an injector clean/overhaul was on the list. 

It does also have cats which I'd like to remove at some point, were you thinking lambda sensor or cats being blocked?

I've stuck some v-power in it and will try to get some more miles on it to see if that helps-only 15 miles is barely enough to get it up to temperature!

Posted
1 minute ago, dome said:

Injection side I've done nothing, and remembering that the thing only started when I whacked the injectors it's safe to assume some work is needed.

That might be an important clue.

2 minutes ago, dome said:

That only leaves the coil I reckon.

Never heard of one failing on XJ40, but the extended period of sitting could certainly do some bad.

3 minutes ago, dome said:

It does also have cats which I'd like to remove at some point, were you thinking lambda sensor or cats being blocked?

Possibly blocked car was my idea, but hope not. Lambda sensor would throw a CEL surely?

4 minutes ago, dome said:

I've stuck some v-power in it and will try to get some more miles on it to see if that helps-only 15 miles is barely enough to get it up to temperature!

V-power is a very good move, but 15 miles to warm up is not so good. Thermostat must be stuck open. My old XJ40 only took a few miles to get up to operating temp. X300s have a second coolant temp sensor for the ECU, which can give problems. Maybe the XJ40 has one too. Right at the top of the engine with a 2-pin plug out of it.

Posted
11 minutes ago, Broadsword said:

 

V-power is a very good move, but 15 miles to warm up is not so good. Thermostat must be stuck open. My old XJ40 only took a few miles to get up to operating temp. X300s have a second coolant temp sensor for the ECU, which can give problems. Maybe the XJ40 has one too. Right at the top of the engine with a 2-pin plug out of it.

I may have worded that badly. I meant more letting the car get properly warmed up and get some miles on it. 

I've replaced the thermostat and it's getting warm with heat coming through the heaters pretty quickly, the temp gauge doesn't quite get to the half way point though, not sure what is normal on these?

It does have two temperature sensors, these are pretty cheap so replacement is an option, especially of the one which drives the ECU. I have the resistance values of the x300 ones somewhere, I'll check mine out. 

  • Like 2
Posted

So, yesterday i decided to do a bit of methodical* working through some possibilities for the hesitation. 

Ideally I'd do one thing at a time and test it but the reality went as follows

Decided to remove and clean the throttle body and check the TPS at the same time. I marked the TPS so I could refit it in the correct place. Checking the resistance on this and it changed uniformly as I moved it through it's travel so that was all good. I also cleaned the connectors, these didn't seem too bad.

I cleaned that and the throttle body and assembled it all. The throttle body wasn't bad at all so I don't think that was the problem. I should've taken it a test drive but I pulled off the connector for the ECU coolant sensor and it had mayo like stuff on it. I cleaned this up and reconnected it. I also replaced the small vacuum hose going from the fuel pressure regulator to the inlet manifold. Again, it didn't seem to have failed but the rubber was starting to crack.

I took it a test drive for 20 miles or so and... No hesitation! 

No idea what cured it or whether it'll stay cured, I'll only find out when I keep driving it...

 

 

  • dome changed the title to Domes shonky autos-XJ40 snagging continues...
Posted

Have some pics. I've yet to attack the chrome properly but she's looking good, if I do say so myself...

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Posted

That does look in better condition than a Scottish-registered Jaguar of the era has any right to be.  Great work!!

  • Like 2
Posted

Do you have subwoofers under the rear seats (basically where your rear passenger heels would be)?

Do you want some for the cost of postage?

Posted
On 10/13/2020 at 10:55 AM, mercedade said:

Do you have subwoofers under the rear seats (basically where your rear passenger heels would be)?

Do you want some for the cost of postage?

I have what looks like small speakers where the rear passenger heels would be, is that them? Thanks for the offer though!

Posted

140 miles completed in the Jag tonight, on a collection mission for another shifter that you may here about elsewhere on here. 

It was pretty much flawless, although I arrived home with one less wheel trim than I left with thanks to potholes on the M90 🙁

I'll give it another coolant flush and get some antifreeze into it and also another oil change now it's had a good run. 

It was great to get some miles on it and reminds me how much I love these things. 

It also gives me some confidence to get some more miles on it. 😁

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Posted

We'll done you! You've got a nice motor there and it also seems reliable so far 👍

Posted
Just now, stripped fred said:

We'll done you! You've got a nice motor there and it also seems reliable so far 👍

I am quite jealous...

Posted
12 hours ago, dome said:

I have what looks like small speakers where the rear passenger heels would be, is that them? Thanks for the offer though!

That's them. The stereo wiring is a bit odd in XJ40s, so aftermarket stereos take a bit of effort, but those underseat speakers are (pretty decent) subwoofers to bulk out the rest of the sound.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Not a lot to report here but a quick update on the fleet is in order.

Jag

Hasn't been far due to shite weather/lack of time. I've ordered oil and filter for it to give it another change soon-it's done less than 300 miles since I got it on the road. Winter storage would be a good idea, if I'd somewhere to store it. Which I don't🙁

Accord

Doing a very good job of being A CAR. Not particularly exciting but comfy and reasonable on fuel for a big bus. Just turned 48k, I doubt there's many 2.2 diesels that have done so little miles in the country!

Kangoo

I picked up a set of Eibach springs to fit to this with the hope being they'll not be as harsh as the existing random lowering springs it has fitted. Of course I haven't fitted them yet though. Other than that the immobilizer is a pain so it probably needs a UCH/ECU repair. I believe there's shiters that might be able to help with that? A replacement would be a similar age so just as likely to be knackered.

It still brings a smile to my face when I drive it and is great for chucking the bike in, especially at this time of year. It's sticking around for now, although it really is surplus to requirements.

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MR2

We did our second track day of the year last weekend at Knockhill. Sadly a combination of fog refusing to clear and numerous red flags we only got about 25 laps instead of the usual 60+  We got the slicks on in the last hour but the track was then shut for the last hour so we couldn't get out🙁

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A new set of Rainsports have been fitted to the road/wet track wheels. These feel much better than the Toyos we had on previously.

I'd checked it over before the track day and bled the brakes so was pretty confident about getting it MOT'd this week. But the only thing I never checked was the handbrake which is notoriously shite on these things so guess what it failed on?

Bollocks. I've ordered up new cables as the ones in it were ropey last time round. Calipers are fairly recent so I should be able to make them work.

To celebrate* we've bought a set of coilovers for it. The Tein Springs/KYB shocks we fitted are great for road use but we need to go a bit stiffer for the track. These will be for sale soon😉 I'll look forward* to the myriad of settings and adjustments on these when they arrive. 

The plan is also to freshen up some bushes over the winter and make it a bit more track focussed, nothing too severe though. 

I'm getting my usual desires for another 4x4, more so for potential tat hauling than off road/winter abilities. Something would have to go though...

  • dome changed the title to Domes shonky autos-Fleet Update
Posted
2 hours ago, dome said:

Kangoo

although it really is surplus to requirements.

I'm getting my usual desires for another 4x4, more so for potential tat hauling than off road/winter abilities. Something would have to go though...

I have a want for a van, a Disco 2 TD5 Manual surplus to requirement needing very little except enthusiasm (and maybe an ignition switch or a starter) and can throw in an X308 as either a sweetner or a threat depending on your view :-) I could also be persuaded to part with a bit of cash....,.....

Posted
4 hours ago, Saabnut said:

I have a want for a van, a Disco 2 TD5 Manual surplus to requirement needing very little except enthusiasm (and maybe an ignition switch or a starter) and can throw in an X308 as either a sweetner or a threat depending on your view :-) I could also be persuaded to part with a bit of cash....,.....

Thanks but I don't think I could part with it for a Disco 2. Now if you had a Range Rover that'd be different!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Small update on the Kangoo.

The ride was pretty bad at the front-crashy over bumps and not particularly pleasant. It did look good though.

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It was on a set of unknown lowering springs at the front with new Clio 182 shocks and lowered on the torsion bar at the rear. 

Eibach Pro Race springs seemed to get a good reputation for Clios so I thought I'd give a set a try. I picked some up a week or two ago so last night decided to swap the fronts on.

First off, let's get the struts off and see what was fitted

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Ah, that explains it. Gmax springs, beloved of Macxcy Ds car park fans everywhere. Off you fuck!

No compressors needed as OMGLO so they were soon off and replaced with these.

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Back together and here's how it looked. It's settled a bit now but is still a bit higher than previous

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But, what a difference! Anyone who's experienced this thing can't have failed to notice the choppy ride- it's a million times better now and has some actual body control.

Gmax-just say no kids!

 

  • dome changed the title to Domes shonky autos-Kangoo suspension improvements
Posted

I think even with standard springs you can get away without compressors. Clio 2 and kangoos are so easy to change fronts springs it's unreal.

Posted

Small Jag update-It's not been out much due to restrictions and the weather but i took it a spin on Saturday just for the sake of it. It still drives lovely. I've ordered up an Andy bracket-this is a modified crank sensor bracket designed by a former jag engineer which apparently advances the timing by 5 degrees and improves both performance and economy. We'll see if it makes a difference. A full decat exhaust system is also being considered for it, being a 1991 car I could throw them away and still be legal :)

  • dome changed the title to Domes shonky autos-Collection imminent. Financial ruin also imminent.
Posted

Well, with Manta shenanigans on hold for the foreseeable future it's time to scratch an itch.

No prizes for guessing what this is, I go on about them often enough. Stay tuned for some action this evening 

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