Accidental XM - Rust photos, page 4

[dollywobbler]

Have you checked the LHM level yet? Could be a simple explanation for notchy steering. Brakes are like nothing else, so pedal can feel odd. A bit of air in the system can cause odd behaviour though. Sounds like a hydraulich flush and filter clean should be a high priority though. Mine has just started doing the notchy steering thing.

 

Not sure what you mean by intermittent rear suspension?

 

Blower will be duff switch or knackered resistors. Does it work on full? Mine occasionally needs moving around a bit before it blows. Note - the blowers don't operate if the engine is not running.

[Matt]

Have you checked the LHM level yet? Could be a simple explanation for notchy steering. Brakes are like nothing else, so pedal can feel odd. A bit of air in the system can cause odd behaviour though. Sounds like a hydraulich flush and filter clean should be a high priority though. Mine has just started doing the notchy steering thing.

 

Not sure what you mean by intermittent rear suspension?

 

Blower will be duff switch or knackered resistors. Does it work on full? Mine occasionally needs moving around a bit before it blows. Note - the blowers don't operate if the engine is not running.

 

Not yet, the lid scared me a bit! I remembered after getting back that a family friend is a big Citroen guy so I've got in touch with him to see if he can offer some knowledge. To give you an idea of how much of a fan he is he's got a mint DS in a heated garage and when his wife asked him to buy a car to get around the fields with she was expecting a beat up old Land Rover or something... He came back with a 1977 CX Safari, that had been on television no less! (Return Of The Saint, it was black at the time and ran over a doctor...). I have heard that DS brakes are more like those on today's modern cars and even a small push on the XM's middle pedal produced a noticeable reduction in speed so I'm not really sure what's normal.

 

The left rear just seemed to stiffen up for a few minutes. The whole rear corner would follow the radius of bumps rather than float over them as it was doing for the most part--as if there was little or no movement within the system. I don't think the rear end has totally dead spheres as it wasn't overly hard or bouncy (aforementioned issue aside) but coming down from a few speed bumps on the way back it didn't feel quite as refined as I was expecting.

 

I tried the blower a couple of times and nowt happened, not even on the highest speed. The previous owner said it was intermittent.

[angle]

When trying to work out why my Xantia blower wasn't working I came across people with S2 XMs with the same issues, which is apparently commonly caused by one particular fuse getting a bit hot and melty. A quick Google suggests fuse F2 is the culprit, if there's a 30A fuse there, people seem to have luck replacing it with a 40A one...

[forddeliveryboy]

Ah, stiffening for a few minutes... there are electrovalves controlling things, ruled by printed circuit boards. 

 

It sounds like the Hydractive2 needs at least a couple of fluid changes and a French tune up (the equiv of Italian foot to the floor for suspension). I mix kerosene and Total 15w40 (for diesels, it says on the container, so lots of detergent) to something like the right VI and use for a day, before refilling with that shit Comma, Carlube and others pass off as LHM. Remove and clean the filters with petrol and compressed air till they're spotless. Then change again with cheapo LHM and use until you can be bothered to replace it with the real thing, made by Total. Clean/check the filters again before pouring in the proper green blood.

 

I've known cars with all sorts of hydraulic problems having been stood - mostly the Peugoet Cits, most of which have been Hyd2 like yours. They've often been tinkered with by a specialist or two and all they really needed was a load of hard use, together with a couple of fluid changes and filter cleans. Don't forget to do the brakes, once the Total's in. Best not fill the calipers with kero.

 

Watch out for remanufactured (unless Cit original, with the double-chevron indents) or very cheap new spheres, look for IHFS. 

 

http://www.sphere-shop.co.uk/all-models-exceptbr--25-turbo-d-br--30-v6-773-c.asp

[DSdriver]

Blowers do tend to be a bit random, like the central locking's effect on the tailgate. The level gauge on the LHM is a bit wafty as well. Needs to b checked with the suspension on high. If it doesn't move when you add fluid put car on lowest level and wait until it settles. Reservoir should then be nearly full. If you have just added so much fluid that it overflows you will have just undersealed part of the car.

I actually plucked up the courage to try the sunroof this weekend, first time since I bought the car. Just on tilt though cos I'm not very brave.

[dollywobbler]

I see someone on Club-XM has suggested a seizing UJ in the steering column as another possible source of notchy steering. That'd make sense. May seem if I can get lube anywhere near mine as I don't fancy having to pull the steering column out on an airbag car.

[Matt]

So I went and had slightly more in depth look around the new car and found a few more issues:

 

1) It appears that it has too much LHM fluid as the little orange disc is about as high as it will go inside the bulb. Yes I had the car fully raised.

2) The Hydraulic pressure & level and STOP warning lights came on while the engine was running but didn't come back on when I restarted it

3) It was running a bit rough, a little bit stuttery.

4) Whistle raising the car to the top and back to normal a few times there was a bit of a clunk from the rear end and it didn't go down totally smoothly. Like something was sticking.

5) I forgot to mentioned this before but on the way back something in the steering column started clicking at about 55 degrees either side. It didn't seem as heavy as when I was driving though.

6) I can't get the height lever to go to the lowest setting.

7) There is a buzzing noise from the sunroof that mostly goes away when it is in motion. 

 

 

Did find two quid in it and I fixed the right hand digital screen though, so not all bad... Found an old unopened mirror glass replacement for the drivers side in one of the seat back pockets. Weird.

 

 

No MOT test done yet as the tester has a shoulder injury but they're hoping he'll be fit enough tomorrow or Friday so fingers crossed I can get it moved to somewhere I can properly work on it for the weekend.

[forddeliveryboy]

Don't PDI it, just chuck it into a test and see what happens. There'll always be faults with a big, cheap old car - what matters is can it thrown into service? The fluid level indicator on top of the reservoir may be stuck, btw - check there's plenty of fluid when at normal height.

[Matt]

Don't PDI it, just chuck it into a test and see what happens. There'll always be faults with a big, cheap old car - what matters is can it thrown into service? The fluid level indicator on top of the reservoir may be stuck, btw - check there's plenty of fluid when at normal height.

 

That's what I'm doing, I had no real idea that I would win the Ebay auction after all Well not without an MOT, no but it's not the end of the world as I've still got the Swift and I've been offered some covered space on a colleagues' parents' farm (that handily has three in-house mechanics!). I'll pop back down to it tomorrow and trya nd work out how the LHM lid comes off, didn't do it today because it was bloody heaving with rain.

[Matt]

Reason(s) for failure

• offside front Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings inner wing (6.1.B.2)
• nearside front Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering floor support (6.1.A.1)
• offside front Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering floor support (6.1.A.1)
• nearside rear Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering outer sill at jacking point (6.1.A.1)
• offside rear Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering outer sill jacking point (6.1.A.1)
• nearside Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings floor below seat mount (6.1.B.2)
• offside Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings floor below seat mount (6.1.B.2)
• Steering system excessively tight (2.2.D.1)
• Steering system fouling (2.2.D.2a)
• Braking system leaking (3.6.A.1)
• Brake fluid warning lamp illuminated (3.6.G.2)

   

   

 

Advisory notice item(s)

• Steering column top bearing slightly worn (2.1.2c)
• nearside front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
• front bumper support bracket has corosion
• oil leak
• emissions not done due to fluid leaking all over floor

   

•  

 

Fuuuuuuuuuck. Not a single mention of rust on any MOT on the DVLA check site, seller said "body is in good condition all round" too. I am NOT a happy boy right now. That's probably that, honestly. 

 

Offers?

[320touring]

Fuck-sorry to hear that:(

 

I reckon you may need to grab some pics of the grot so folks know how it looks.

[richardmorris]

Rust not good- they're supposed to be galvanised. Usually only go round the sill jacking points when someone has made a mess of jacking it up.

[Matt]

Fuck-sorry to hear that:(

 

I reckon you may need to grab some pics of the grot so folks know how it looks.

 

I will do. It might not be end of the world yet if the mechanics at the aforementioned farm can patch it up nicely and if they're enthusiastic enough to do it cheap! (I think they're privately hired to maintain the farms equipment).

 

Rust not good- they're supposed to be galvanised. Usually only go round the sill jacking points when someone has made a mess of jacking it up.

Well the O/S/R jacking point is thoroughly mangled.

[Barry Cade]

A bit O/T but that really pisses me off.A monocoque car does NOT have body mountings= that fail is supposed to be for a vehicle with a chassis.. AND sill corrosion really should come under seatbelt mounting points as a fail.

[dome]

My local garage would probably pass that...

[Barry Cade]

My local garage would probably pass that...

Oh yes? Do tell!

[dome]

To be fair their not that bad, just sympathetic shall we say. PM me if you want info. They do have a broken Saab 9-5 they want rid of too...

[cort16]

Sorry to hear your woes with this. It might be worth a re-test somewhere else.

[Supernaut]

It's fucked! /Junkman

[beko1987]

Some of your issues sound like the rear height corrector. Mine was stuck when I got the car, a bit of citrobatics on messershmitowners drive sorted it, and sometimes when lowering it it would stay at the same height until the front went down then dropped like a stone.

 

Sad to hear about the rest though, you popped it on high and poked your head and phone under it?

[dollywobbler]

XMs were galvo, but they still rot well enough. Mine has had repairs to sills and floors. Hope you can sort it.

[beko1987]

Failing that, would you break even by breaking it?

 

Would the drivers seat fit into a ZX?

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Don't panic MLC. Can you do us a few pictures of the crispy bits??

[dieselassist]

_{emissions not done due to fluid leaking all over floor}

 

 

....is it me or this sound like utter bone-idol'ness ?? get some rags /the bucket of sawdust out, n get on with the emmissions test, man!!

[beko1987]

When I took the meriva for an mot whilst it was still leaking oil the tester was wetting himself as I followed it round the workshop woth a roll of blue towel. That mot tester sounds like an amateur...

[brownnova]

Fuuuuuuuuuck....

 

...Offers?

I've got half a tin of Pringles I'd swap you for it.

 

Sorry to hear it's so rusty... But it does sound like the tester has gone a bit overboard! Are they normally old car friendly??

[myglaren]

XMs were galvo, but they still rot well enough. Mine has had repairs to sills and floors. Hope you can sort it.

Was very tempted by a 3L V6 Exclusive recently but the 'subframe rusting for fun and the rest rusting in sympathy' is a big worry considering it will be out in all weathers.

 

It is currently in superb condition but probably wouldn't remain like that if I were to take it on.

[forddeliveryboy]

Sorry to hear of fail, but any pics of the rot and yellow chalk? XMs can rot badly, I remember going to see one in about 1995 which had rust in the sills. Was it just the upper body which was galved?

[dollywobbler]

Sills are usually victims of poor jacking. I've never known a car where the sills are almost certain to be ruined to quite such an extent.

[beko1987]

Mine were iffy, one was me, one was the part worn place I used back then.

 

Their fucked on the zx too but not rusting so I dont care too much about that, especially since its a worthless car