For Sale Leon Cupra 20vt. Now for sale. Â£750 shiters price with 12 mth MOT

9,265 · January 31, 2016

Kyle (my son) had a silver 52 reg one identical to that a few years ago. He thrashed it mercilessly and never once had it serviced in two years and it did some serious mileage in that time. Nothing went wrong with it at all. I seem to recall it was even quite good on fuel...

He sold it when I had a look at it and noted it needed discs, pads, backplates and a few other things as a matter of some urgency.... he sold it instead. As he has acquired his Fathers honest streak, he declared all the faults in the advert and still got a good price for it!

17,473 · January 31, 2016

It was under a grand, but that was partly because of the dashboard fault. Ad for mpg, I'll keep you posted.

Bought a used set of clocks off eBay last night,so will see if that cures it.

Clocks are coded remember- immob is part of them I believe

32,451 · January 31, 2016

I bought mine (but with a boot) off here for much more than under a grand and its great, with 180 bhp and 6 gears you can actually drive it at 30 mph in 6th and it still pulls away. Its basically a Skoda Octavia VRs without the body kit. They do leak a bit of water I've found though.

3,922 · January 31, 2016

Clocks are coded remember- immob is part of them I believe

Bugger. Better look into that before I start pulling it to bits. Still, the French Rocket isn't going for a couple of weeks now, so I'm not under pressure to sort it quickly.

9,096 · January 31, 2016

Yo Sporteh, clocks are likely gonna be to do with condensation / water leak, onto the back of the clocks onto PCB.

Mine did that, but I ran out of arsedness with it.

25,123 · January 31, 2016

Aye, have the clocks to bits and clean them up with a toothbrush and isopropanyl alcohol.

Cracking engines these, can't imagine they're great on juice in a Leon tho! I've got the slightly newer 180BHP Drive by wire one in my Ibiza and I've done 27mpg over the last 8000 miles.

4,444 · January 31, 2016

They are great cars and I shouldn't have sold it. MPG wise then I always managed around 32-33 without making any real effort, on a long run 37-38 was possible. Driven reasonably hard and it was around 27ish.

Mega cars though. Hopefully I shall be having something with 'vRS' on its rump in my life shortly to replace the gaping hole mine / Triggers has left.

40,153 · January 31, 2016

Bugger. Better look into that before I start pulling it to bits. Still, the French Rocket isn't going for a couple of weeks now, so I'm not under pressure to sort it quickly.

VAG Commander will extract the PIN code for the immo and then VCDS (VAG-Com) can code in the rest. Or it can on most dashes copy out the EEPROM. So read the EEPROM from the old dash, write the EEPROM into the new dash. Have a google around, should be a few guides on how to do it.

28,100 · January 31, 2016

Here is the procedure for clock swapping: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer_III_Immobilizer_Swapping_(Instrument_Cluster)

If you can be arsed to bring it over to Huddersfield I have pirate ebay versions of the relevant interfaces, have extracted an SKC and done key coding on my old Fabia successfully.

28,100 · January 31, 2016

Or if you want to have a go yourself, this is what I've got for getting the secret key code out of the car/clocks, and this is what you need for VAGCOM.

The VAGCOM lead is probably worth a purchase anyway, let me know if you need a hand with the software for it as what it comes with is normally unusable and/or virus ridden.

17,473 · January 31, 2016

PaellaVAG.

Yup, you'll end up in bed with the sweats whilst the world falls out your arse.

3,922 · January 31, 2016

Yo Sporteh, clocks are likely gonna be to do with condensation / water leak, onto the back of the clocks onto PCB.

Mine did that, but I ran out of arsedness with it.

Quite likely, it's obviously been wet inside in the past.

Aye, have the clocks to bits and clean them up with a toothbrush and isopropanyl alcohol.

Cracking engines these, can't imagine they're great on juice in a Leon tho! I've got the slightly newer 180BHP Drive by wire one in my Ibiza and I've done 27mpg over the last 8000 miles.

I shall give that a go.

Here is the procedure for clock swapping: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer_III_Immobilizer_Swapping_(Instrument_Cluster)

If you can be arsed to bring it over to Huddersfield I have pirate ebay versions of the relevant interfaces, have extracted an SKC and done key coding on my old Fabia successfully.

A very kind offer, which I may take you up on. Thank you.

3,922 · January 31, 2016

Or if you want to have a go yourself, this is what I've got for getting the secret key code out of the car/clocks, and this is what you need for VAGCOM.

The VAGCOM lead is probably worth a purchase anyway, let me know if you need a hand with the software for it as what it comes with is normally unusable and/or virus ridden.

I've just invested in these, just in case! It'll probably be the middle of next week before I have the chance to mess about with them, so expect a desperate PM by about Thursday!

3,922 · February 4, 2016

Whilst I was struggling to motivate myself to revise, and seeing as the piostman had brought a bottle of Isopropannythingy Alcohol, I thought I'd have a quick look. IK'd already googled how to get the clocks out, and it's a piece of piss, so off I went.

Stripped them down to expose both sides of the board, and sprayed Isopr... that stuff, beifore rubbing over with a toothbrush. Built back up, and now the dash lights go off.

Don't know if it's a coincidence, but don't care. It's a result in my eyes. Still got spare clocks in case this doesn't work, and have also got VAG lead and software as recommended. This will not get wasted, as I can feel a bit of ghetto re-mapping coming on!

8,916 · February 4, 2016

Isopropannythingy Alcohol....Isopr... that stuff,

Just call it India Pale Ale or IPA.

25,123 · February 4, 2016

Go steady with the DIY mapping, I dunno if these have a wideband o2 stock and you're flying totally blind without one.

My Ibiza has an oddball flash structure so it took me absolutely ages to even find the maps to start playing with. When I did I managed to gain some power, but I had problems with it not enriching quick enough and whatnot.

I did make it go bang and pop on overrun though.

There's people on ebay selling tuned map files which are just copies of the maps you'd pay someone Â£250 to fit (which they would pay Â£40 for) so if you can find someone with a bit of feedback I'd just stick one of them on, but do try and make sure you're not running lean or insane amounts of boost etc etc.

3,922 · February 4, 2016

Thanks for the tip, Cobblers.

Am I being over simplistic, or is it possible to flash an Audi TT 225 map onto these?

25,123 · February 4, 2016

I've got no real experience but although the 225 TT engine is probably the same block and head, it'll have bigger injectors, intercooler and probably a bigger turbo amongst other things, so the map probably wouldn't just go straight on.

The absolute best you can get out of my 180hp 1.8t is about 205 and mine has a strangely big intercooler from the factory- the injectors are flat out at that and the turbo is not far behind - you might get a bit more out of it in the short term but it's not safe.

3,922 · February 4, 2016

Fair enough. I wasn't sure how different the 180 & 225 cars were. I fancy having a meddle with some mapping, but fully acknowledge that I'm not particularly well skilled.

I might leave the Leon alone, and have a go at that Alfa 156 I've bought, as long as it passes MOT fairly easily. Got to go and get it first, though.

25,123 · February 4, 2016

Definitely have a faff, it's really interesting - I got a lot of info off the nefarious motorsports forums. You'll probably get a premade definition file for your ECU off there so you can just modify stuff without having to scroll through pages of random stuff looking for the correct $%$%$%%$RRTETE%%$%$%$ string to work out where your KPWFSV map starts and finishes.

I started by buying a similar ECU off ebay for like Â£30 and then cloning my original onto it. It's a good way to get started, there's basically no risk to your original ECU in reading the map and Immobiliser data, and you can keep that safe. Do all your dicking about with a spare one, and keep the original in the glovebox for when you cock up checksumming the map you made and the car stops working after the 6th start (Ask me how I know)

I wouldn't bother trying to map the Alfa if it's naturally aspirated. Without a turbo you'll get bugger all out of it - remapping a petrol motor is basically just turning up the boost and ignition advance with a corresponding increase in fueling to keep things safe - The stock map is 14.7:1 for everything but absolute max total boost at 10PSI or so, whereas the mapped file I had on was down to 11:1 at anything over 5PSI.

Basically you just throw loads of petrol at it and turn the boost up so you work the turbos a bit harder. They can't really do this from the factory cos they need the turbos and cats to last for many years and the thing to pass emissions testing.

28,100 · February 4, 2016

Nefarious motorsports looks like a good shout, also just found a pretty good starting link here.

The main forums I go to for remapping type info are ecuconnections and ecuedit. Both have a "rate my tune" section where members can upload their efforts for feedback from other members, these are great for seeing what sort of changes are typically made and getting feedback on other peoples mistakes.

The also have a stock file section where you should be able to download a copy of your stock ecu file to look at and mess about with.

For software, something like romraider or tunerpro (nearly identical tbh) but you also need to get a definitions file which is basically a "map of maps" i.e. it tells the software where in your map file to find the maps.

It's deffo very satisfying to do yourself but I have only done dizzlers myself where you're pretty safe to chuck in extra fuel, as cobblers said you have no idea how rich/lean you are running without a wideband lambda sensor.

7,136 · February 4, 2016

Thanks for the tip, Cobblers.

Am I being over simplistic, or is it possible to flash an Audi TT 225 map onto these?

Yo team, weighing in.

In short, I suspect so unfortunately. Find out your engine code and go from there.

http://www.qpeng.com/faqs/engine_faqs/all_these_engine_codes_can_you_explain_what_they_mean.html

VWVortex and Clubgti also have some good stuff.

The audi 225 is a BAM engine code; big injectors, biggish ports, VVT, big intercooler and KO4 turbo.

I actually bought my Octy because despite being giffer spec to look at it's got an AUM engine, which is VRS spec.

I can go into more detail, but you are basically limited by combination of the above parts, and can swap in and out to increase power. Block and internals are strong, and not going to limit you until near 300bhp.

17,473 · February 5, 2016

Could someone please cause VAG a big worldwide issue that brings the company to its knees and makes people buy real cars again?

In the meantime I'm going back to 1975.. to take out the guy that did the GTi...and remap him with these images.

5,243 · February 6, 2016

DrJ I have an Audi propelled by the 18.T with an ARY013 engine number. Abridged version - bomb proof internals? I'm not butchering it, but I'm interested all the same.

Yo team, weighing in.
In short, I suspect so unfortunately. Find out your engine code and go from there.http://www.qpeng.com/faqs/engine_faqs/all_these_engine_codes_can_you_explain_what_they_mean.html
VWVortex and Clubgti also have some good stuff.
The audi 225 is a BAM engine code; big injectors, biggish ports, VVT, big intercooler and KO4 turbo.
I actually bought my Octy because despite being giffer spec to look at it's got an AUM engine, which is VRS spec.
I can go into more detail, but you are basically limited by combination of the above parts, and can swap in and out to increase power. Block and internals are strong, and not going to limit you until near 300bhp.

7,136 · February 10, 2016

DrJ I have an Audi propelled by the 18.T with an ARY013 engine number. Abridged version - bomb proof internals? I'm not butchering it, but I'm interested all the same.

ARY = transverse layout. KO3s turbo (a hybrid job of the original KO3 with the later KO4). Small port. VVT. Injectors depends on model I think.

Stock BHP should be 180, remap to 230 nae bother.

Internals:

The blocks cast iron and can take 300hp+ easy.

ARY should have forged aluminium Mahle pistons, fracture split forged steel conrods and a forged crank. All are pretty good, but rods go first - around 330lb/ft.

They built them strong for motorsport and reliability. Really efficiently designed.

I would start here, it's what I will end up doing to my car as it is just really utilising what's available with no influence on reliability/ increased stress on the engine:

Stage 1 Tuning 1.8t 20v

http://www.vagowners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?10415-1-8t-tuning

This contains a fair bit more data about the engines, but ignore the bit about the DV (dump valve/ diverter valve depending on who you talk to). Stock DV is fine, and whooshy dump valves make you look like a chav twat.

https://www.torquecars.com/audi/18t-tuning.php

This is really in depth, and gives you an idea of what people do with the 1.8t engine. Lots of Audi twat code in there, but yes, people are running 500hp+ from a 1.8t. Why? Fuck knows.

http://www.audiforums.com/forum/b5-models-69/1-8t-turbo-upgrade-information-93439/

Biggy!

1.8t engines are really oil sensitive. Only use good fully synth 5w-30.

Otherwise they just sludge up, or fill the MAF with oil and run rough. VW produce some long life stuff that's good for 15,000miles or some bollocks, which they say is low ash or something equally sciency-sounding. How the fuck oil can be low ash I have no idea. I'll just be changing it every 6-8k.

5,243 · February 11, 2016

Cheers Dr J! I will digest, but don't worry it had its 11th service last year - the oil doesn't get a chance to get old!

Seeing as the price of these is on its arse I think some enterprising shitters should stock pile some VAG lumps for a pension bonus in 20 years time.

3,922 · February 11, 2016

Got this thing ready to use today. The oil was manky and the coolant sludgy. So I bought some bits.

No photos if work in progress, but thee was nothing interesting, anyway. Rad flush through the coolant, then hosed it through a couple of times before filling with antifreeze mix. Still a bit grumpy by after a test drive, so I'll use it for a week or so then flush again.

Oil was minging, so fresh She'll at Â£15 for 5 litres from ECP. Bosch filter on, and all is good. Again, I'll run for a couple of weeks then probably do the oil again.

Was also going to change the thermostat, as it seemed to run a little cool when I drove it home, but it warmed up ok when I was flushing it, so I didn't bother. I'll see how it goes.

Took it for a test drive and it seemed to boost in pulses, with a good push at 2.5k that dropped off, then the same again at about 3.5k & 4 5k. It seemed to smooth out after I'd driven it for a mile or so, so I'll keep.an eye on that.

Jobs to do include dipstick holder, as it's broken up (they go brittle, get rid of the ridiculous cone air filter and it needs frontstrut top mounts soon.

Taxed it this afternoon, as the V5 arrived in today's post. Â£304.50 a year. I'm not used to this new car emissions based lark. Don't like it!

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk

40,153 · February 11, 2016

Took it for a test drive and it seemed to boost in pulses, with a good push at 2.5k that dropped off, then the same again at about 3.5k & 4 5k. It seemed to smooth out after I'd driven it for a mile or so, so I'll keep.an eye on that.

Sounds a bit like the MAF causing problems - a common part on the 1.8T. Easiest to diagnose if you have a vag-com/similar to data log the sensor.

Taxed it this afternoon, as the V5 arrived in today's post. Â£304.50 a year. I'm not used to this new car emissions based lark. Don't like it!

You've gotta pay to play!

3,922 · February 11, 2016

Sounds a bit like the MAF causing problems - a common part on the 1.8T. Easiest to diagnose if you have a vag-com/similar to data log the sensor.

You've gotta pay to play!

Thanks for the tip. I've got ghetto ebay vagcom, so I'll give it a whirl? If it's an airflow issue, could it be connected to that stupid air filter?

Also pay to play. I have to do it, I know. But I don't have to like it!!

28,100 · February 11, 2016

Â£300 a year! you could buy a Rover 75 and 5 Laguna II's for that!

Here's a starter for 10 on MAF checking: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/b5-garage/323918-1-8t-maf-readings-vag-com.html

For Sale Leon Cupra 20vt. Now for sale. Â£750 shiters price with 12 mth MOT

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