Project Rusty Triumphs in Scotland - To gas or not to gas(less MIG) - 09/11/24

[vulgalour]

That squeak sounds a lot like a metal rod against a flat metal bracket, just like the sort of arrangement that holds an ADO16 rear seat down.  Sometimes you get a rubber sheild on the rod to stop it squeaking, sometimes you don't.  Might be worth removing the back seat base and driving around to see if it continues.  It could also be those sort of diamond-shaped metal trim clips rubbing a trim hole, as you'd find on the parcel shelf of any number of 70s cars, so that could be another location to check.  Doesn't sound right for plastic or vinyl squeaking, those are both more creaky usually.

 

Just keep removing stuff and driving until the squeak stops, it's about the only way you'll find it.  It seems very much in the cabin rather than outside, so it's probably nothing mechanical.  Probably.

 

Even though it might not be, I'd still check the rubber fuel lines for cracks and perishing.  It might be sucking air in through pipes that are softer in hotter weather due to age rather than a vaporisation issue.  It could be both, of course.  It's a bonny wee thing, worth persisting with.

[captain_70s]

I'm going to replace all the pipes anyway, the stuff that's fitted is clear and was only supposed to be a stop-gap for getting the car out of the garage having been bought at the local Autofactors. I want some proper black, ethanol resistent stuff.

 

The squeak is deffo from the back end, not in the boot though. It might be the rear seat but it never used to squeak! I can easily pull it out though. It only does it when the car is in motion so it must be the vibration from the engine/exhaust which causes it.

[vulgalour]

It's exactly the sort of noise that drives you spare until you find out where it is too.  I still don't know why the driver's door on my 400 jingles sometimes and I can't replicate it, it just does it sometimes.  I reckon there's an elf trapped in there.

[captain_70s]

Situation report:

 

'77 Triumph Doloshite 1300 - Still stalls and dies when it gets hot, you can get it going again buy squirting it full of easy start. Generally runs like shit, engine sounds like it's full of marbles and burns oil at an hilarious rate. F/O/S brake is binding, steering column rattles around, highly irritating squeak in the cabin somewhere.

 

'83 Triumph Acclaim - Just changed the oil, the noise on first start up with the oil light illuminated while the fresh stuff circulated confirmed my suspicions. It's the same rumble that is audible under load, the big ends are on their way out. Fuck me.

I also tried swapping the ignition module out for a spare I acquired from Jimbo at Cornhill in the hope it might cure my rough idle. It didn't. Next stop - Valve clearances.

 

'05 Honda Civic - Still haven't ordered new calipers yet due to a major shortage of money. It's been sat on axle stands outside my flat for months now... I hope to get it sorted this weekend.

 

 

I seem to have knack for acquiring cars right at the end of their usable lifespan, regardless of the car's actual age/mileage. 

[vulgalour]

*smashes the FFS and DONOTLIKE buttons*

 

I've been trying to educate myself on potential problems from the symptoms described and it does seem like boiling fuel is the most common thing described - with a side of dirt in the carb and TADTS - and the jury is out on wrapping fuel lines as you have.  Some have suggested a hard fuel line is better at cooling than a rubber one, so running it from the pump, to the bulkhead, and then back to the carb, keeping the line as close to the bodywork as you can to keep it away from the engine and other heat sources, seems the most sensible option.  Alternatively, fitting a heat shield between hot things like exhaust and engine, and the fuel line, is said to work better than just wrapping the fuel line in foil.  Some say the foil is good at preventing heat getting into the fuel line but others have said it's problematic because it holds the heat in and won't let things cool down, exacerbating the issue.  For the steering column, if it has them, check the pinch bolts are tightened up.  Sometimes they look tight, but they need a quarter turn to eliminate any rattling.  I do wonder if sorting out the fuel cooling will help ease other mechanical problems, you know how one issue can often make another much worse.  If you hadn't mentioned the bubbles in the fuel - which is a good indicator of boiling fuel, apparently - I would have been pointing the finger more at ignition components.

 

Have you had a look in the carb to see if there's anything obvious in there?  Perhaps it's sucked in some crap and it's fouling something in there, not letting correct amount of fuel through when you need it, or something like that.  The only other thing I can think of trying is to stick a small PC fan to the bulkhead and have it blow air directly onto the fuel line to try and bring the temperature down a bit.  Could you tie-wrap a bag of ice/water to the pipe to try and cool it for a test run to see if it helps?   That sounded much less bodgey in my head than when I typed it out.

 

I wish I could help you out more than trying to share info I've found and only sort of understand.

[D Spares & Tyres]

Rough or non existent idle on the Acclaim could well be perished rubber mounts/seals for the carbs.

[captain_70s]

I'm going to replace/re-route the fuel line twixt fuel pump and carb, it's one of those plasticy see-through type jobs which I fitted to get the car running back up at the garage. It seems to get very hot and tacky feeling in my engine bay though so I'll fit some proper rubber stuff as back when it last had that this wasn't a problem.

 

For the steering column I suspect the rubber bush where it goes through the bulkhead, my 1850HL had a similar issue way back when. Although I also seem to recall that actually removing the steering column is a massive faff, at least on base spec cars like mine which don't have an adjustable one.

 

 

For the Acclaim I'll blast some WD40 at the carb mounts and see if that affects the idle, I'll be doing the valve clearances anyway as part of it's service. Apparently the vacuum ignition timing adjust can also be problematic.

 

As for the bottom end I don't know what to do about that at all. There is very little info online about bottom end knocking from these engines as it generally just doesn't happen, they all seem to sail up to 150,000 miles without a care in the world... I'll probably just keep driving it and find a new engine when I need it, there are plenty of rotten Acclaims with good drive trains kicking about.

[derskine]

I feel your pain - all of my cars are currently fucked too and I'm having to get a lift to work.

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

Another of the shallow troughs on your roller coaster classic experience fella....... the mount of times you've pulled through - we have complete faith.

Not great to hear - but with 2 Triumphs you're asking for it - from a fellow Triymph sufferer!

 

I think I'd be aiming at Civic duty too - that's the only thing between you and a reliable* engined chariot. Then the overhauling of oily bits on the Trumps can be done 'almost' at leisure!

Good luck!

[captain_70s]

I feel your pain - all of my cars are currently fucked too and I'm having to get a lift to work.

The shite life...

 

Another of the shallow troughs on your roller coaster classic experience fella....... the mount of times you've pulled through - we have complete faith.

Not great to hear - but with 2 Triumphs you're asking for it - from a fellow Triymph sufferer!

 

I think I'd be aiming at Civic duty too - that's the only thing between you and a reliable* engined chariot. Then the overhauling of oily bits on the Trumps can be done 'almost' at leisure!

Good luck!

 

I mean overall things are actually quite good all things considered! Both Triumphs are perfectly usable as is, the Dolly just requires me to remember to yank out the choke when I come to a stop to prevent it stalling. The engine is fucked, but it's been fucked for the last 10,000 miles, the only thing preventing me from doing mega miles in it is the sticking brake and the cost of feeding it 20w50...

 

The Acclaim still starts on the button and just goes with no quibbles, how long it'll last for I don't know. 5000 miles, 15,000 miles? We shall see. I must confess the exhaust leaking at the joins is getting on my tits, I should have taken up FOAD's offer to weld it up when it was on the ramp...

 

Oh, also. If anybody has an old FM radio cassette player that wouldn't look too out of place in the Acclaim ( the old two dial tuner in the middle set-up) I would be interested in purchasing it. Listening to Clyde 2 everyday is driving me mad and I need something to drown out the big ends...

[dome]

 

 

As for the bottom end I don't know what to do about that at all. 

 

Big end bearings might not be too hard to do, depending on access to get the sump off. 

 

Our MR2 had fucked ones-the symptoms were a knock most noticeable on the way up/down the revs at around 2500rpm. Luckily the crank wasn't damaged so £35 for a new set and an oil change and she's been fine since.

 

How easy is it to get the sump off your two?

[captain_70s]

I think the Dolly can be done with the engine in situ with a bit of faffing about but it sounds so terrible I reckon the crank will need re-profiling at least.

 

No idea about the Acclaim, I have a feeling there may be stuff in the way.

[captain_70s]

Getting photographed at shows when the thing isn't even on the showground.

 

 

Moffat Vintage Rally 2018. by Ben Smith, on Flickr

[lanciamatt]

Order a set of bearing shells, and get them done, how about offering free digs at your place, some beers and get a few lads through to help? Just a idea

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Retard the ignition timing a few degrees - that'll quieten it down. 

[BeEP]

Retard the ignition timing a few degrees - that'll quieten it down. 

 

This, although as you've suggested the timing may be out I'd adjust it to the correct setting initially; incorrect timing can cause apparent knocking.  If it still knocks then retard it a bit.

[Squire_Dawson]

Are you particularly attached to the cars? Just thinking you could sell them all and use the funds to buy a good example of a car of your choice. We've all been there with these bloody faults on old knackers, just don't let it overwhelm you mate.

[captain_70s]

Are you particularly attached to the cars? Just thinking you could sell them all and use the funds to buy a good example of a car of your choice. We've all been there with these bloody faults on old knackers, just don't let it overwhelm you mate.

I've come to the conclusion it's not actually possible for me to buy a good example of a car so I may as well scrape by with the ones I already have. If I sold the whole fleet and bought another car with the proceeds I'd over pay for another heap. Guaranteed.

Even the Civic that was gifted to me managed to snap a halfshaft and loose it's exhaust as soon as I took ownership.

 

Looking into replacing the bearings on an Acclaim engine and it seems to be a royal pain. You can do the big ends with the engine in situ but each crankshaft was mated to it's shells depending on it's exact tolerances, so you need to replace them with the correct set of shells for your particular crankshaft. Finding a set of shells is problematic enough as googling/reading the enthusiast pages seems to suggest they are now pretty much NLA anyway.

 

The good news is that they only fail on oil starved or super high mile engines, so my sub 70k example with service history fo' days should be fine... Oh wait. I own it...

 

Basically if the big ends go you find a new engine.

[M'coli]

Sometimes - just sometimes - an HGF between two cylinders can make a sound like a rumbly bottom end. Start pulling spark plug leads and putting it under load to see what noise it makes. Hey, it may just be the cause of the idle issue too...

[lanciamatt]

Just watched your video of it running and cutting out. No car should run ok warm with the choke out, have you had the cO checked on a emission machine. I suspect it's running weak, also when yoy showed the in-line fuel filter, with engine running that should be pretty much full, if not you have either a restriction or,fuel pump is weak. First job get it on a emission machine and see what co is

[plasticvandan]

could be mixture set weak to get through mot...

[lanciamatt]

Also have you checked to see if the oil level is correct in the top of the summer carb

[lanciamatt]

SU carb I meant

[SiC]

Just watched your video of it running and cutting out. No car should run ok warm with the choke out, have you had the cO checked on a emission machine.

Why not? The SU carb that these have simply increase the RPM on the first bit of travel. Its only when you pull it out further does the mixture start getting affected.

 

I suspect it's running weak, also when yoy showed the in-line fuel filter, with engine running that should be pretty much full, if not you have either a restriction or,fuel pump is weak.

Again I'm not sure that having a fuel filter not full is a problem. I initially thought it was with my MGB, however all the consensus on any MG forum is that its not a problem if its not and usually isn't full. As the filter is filling up the float chamber, any air that gets through the filter won't be a problem in the float chamber as the fuel pickup to the jet is at the bottom. Any air will be removed at the top. These pumps by design are low pressure (2-3 psi) in normal operation and isn't enough to compress the air in a filter leaving a gap at the top. As long as the filter is refilling at regular intervals but not continuously, from the fuel pump (being impulse/demand based) its fine.

[lanciamatt]

My point is you shouldn't need to do that, at least get co checked

[captain_70s]

could be mixture set weak to get through mot...

Mixture is always tweaked lean for MOT purposes and then brought back up to usable levels. Dashpot is topped up with 3-in-1.

 

As said by SiC the first half of the choke travel just operates the throttle linkage to give a fast idle, it doesn't adjust the mixture. Driving the car with the choke fully out when it's up to temp 'causes it to splutter and bog down under acceleration and cough out smoke.

I did buy a new fuel pump a while ago as I suspected the original might be tired but it was DOA so I refitted the old one. I'm tempted to go electric for reliabilitys sake.

 

 

Interesting peeps should mention the ignition timing/HGF for the Acclaim. I've not actually checked the ignition timing at all, I set the 1300 by ear as I lack a strobe light and am disinclined to try the same trick with the Acclaim lest I loose a functional car! Apparently the vacuum operated advance/retard can be a shit and is best disabled and the timing retarded a bit to compensate, not sure if that's been done already on my car.

 

As for HGF the car does seem to use a little bit of coolant and the coolant that is in it looks like shite, inside the expansion tank is decidedly gunky, the oil cap can sometimes be a bit mayoish. The exhaust also leaks water out of every join although this could just be condensation. I've been monitoring it since I bought the car and it's never been particularly noticeable in it's use of coolant although it is very much a possibility!

[oldcars]

Didn't know that the half choke on SU was just a fast idle. My idle is to high on my Reliant but the adjustment screw seems to do very little. I am sure its more user error that anything else.

[Guest Hooli]

Didn't know that the half choke on SU was just a fast idle. My idle is to high on my Reliant but the adjustment screw seems to do very little. I am sure its more user error that anything else.

 

Tight choke cable will do that.

[oldcars]

Tight choke cable will do that.

Makes sense as its been ever since i replaced the cable. Need to look at that.

[320touring]

Does the dashpot in the SU not take 20w50 rather than 3in1.

 

Only asking as I know Squire Dawson used oil in the dashpot on the Oxford su and it seems a relatively happy camper..