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The Bikeshite Thread


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Posted

The hardest part with trying to weld bike exhausts is getting enough clean good metal to weld to, when you take a wire wheel and try and clean it up you may find there's a lot less good metal than you thought, I've not seen an exhaust like that before, looks like its got a weird colostomy bag type thing going on.

 

Edit, the hole in the first picture should be there, its to allow water to drain away, and you will get gases out of it but its normal.

 

I wondered about the hole in the silencer, it was a good bargaining point when buying the bike I guess!

 

I'm hoping to pick up a decent exhaust at some point in the future and this bike will only ever be used on dry sunny days during the summer so I've been reading that some folks have repaired exhausts with epoxy resin or even exhaust putty?

 

I bought some Harpic to try this method of cleaning up the exhausts. Not sure how effective it will be on chrome, but here's the video of the Harpic method..

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXcM6g-JaBo

 

I suspect the bike had stainless down-pipes and the effect might be greater?

 

The black box (colostomy bag) is supposedly to give the effect of a longer exhaust in a shorter pipe. I'll rub that down and treat it to some BBQ paint to freshen it up at some point before refitting the exhaust.

 

Any recommendations for de-greasing the exhaust before applying paint?

 

I've also got a partial can of galvanised spray paint in the shed which could be used to improve the look of the underside of the exhaust if that's a suitable application?

Posted

Used to ride 365 days a year in my youth!

 

Do I miss it?

 

Not at all, in the UK or colder parts of the world.

Posted

I still ride most days-didnt on Monday due to the snow, so I took the bus and train into work.

 

Bike was used on Tuesday!!!!!

Posted

I wondered about the hole in the silencer, it was a good bargaining point when buying the bike I guess!

 

I'm hoping to pick up a decent exhaust at some point in the future and this bike will only ever be used on dry sunny days during the summer so I've been reading that some folks have repaired exhausts with epoxy resin or even exhaust putty?

 

I bought some Harpic to try this method of cleaning up the exhausts. Not sure how effective it will be on chrome, but here's the video of the Harpic method..

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXcM6g-JaBo

 

I suspect the bike had stainless down-pipes and the effect might be greater?

 

The black box (colostomy bag) is supposedly to give the effect of a longer exhaust in a shorter pipe. I'll rub that down and treat it to some BBQ paint to freshen it up at some point before refitting the exhaust.

 

Any recommendations for de-greasing the exhaust before applying paint?

 

I've also got a partial can of galvanised spray paint in the shed which could be used to improve the look of the underside of the exhaust if that's a suitable application?

 

Use gunk or any other propriety automotive degreaser, you can also use cillit bang, which is cheap, harpic works best on stainless pipes.

 

You could try a 2 part metal repair putty like JB weld on the hole.

Posted

I still ride most days-didnt on Monday due to the snow, so I took the bus and train into work.

 

Bike was used on Tuesday!!!!!

 

Last time I rode in winter, was in Florida, two years ago, was warmer than a Scottish summer :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Use gunk or any other propriety automotive degreaser, you can also use cillit bang, which is cheap, harpic works best on stainless pipes.

 

You could try a 2 part metal repair putty like JB weld on the hole.

 

I'll have a look and see what's on offer at the local Home Bargains in the cleaning isle then :)

 

I'll also give the stainless system on my old GSX-R750 a shot with the Harpic, been meaning to clean the down-pipes for many years now but never got around to it!

 

Is brazing a good option for fixing that sort of hole?

 

I'm somewhat loathe to keep taking back layers of metal, just in case I'm not left with much of an exhaust. It does appear to be pretty solid - or more solid that I was expecting at least.

Posted

I rode to work in the snow Monday,mz did not give one solitary shit.got a lift in Tues as everything had frozen over and would have been impossible.weds/Thurs fine,just got caught out Fri morning.slid up the road with bike on top of me,damage a ground down clutch lever and bent footrest tube.kicked that straight and carried on.once again the old rickman top box saved the bike

  • Like 2
Posted

I rode to work in the snow Monday,mz did not give one solitary shit.got a lift in Tues as everything had frozen over and would have been impossible.weds/Thurs fine,just got caught out Fri morning.slid up the road with bike on top of me,damage a ground down clutch lever and bent footrest tube.kicked that straight and carried on.once again the old rickman top box saved the bike

 

I used to frequently ride over the snow covered moor on my GP100 & GT250X7.

 

It was a 10 mile ride, to my then girlfriends dads farm, I was that keen at the time, I once did it in two feet of snow!

 

Quite a strange experience, as the HT leads were arcing all the way down the cylinders....and the bike had no power to get through the snow.

 

Wasn't usually a problem with an old X7!

Posted

98% out on the bike, because work and have an aversion to paying €2.10 e/w for the toll. Bollocks to that, freezing or not.

  • Like 2
Posted

Rode in whatever the weather but prefer light bikes in the winter as easier to pick up

  • Like 1
Posted

I'll have a look and see what's on offer at the local Home Bargains in the cleaning isle then :)

 

I'll also give the stainless system on my old GSX-R750 a shot with the Harpic, been meaning to clean the down-pipes for many years now but never got around to it!

 

Is brazing a good option for fixing that sort of hole?

 

I'm somewhat loathe to keep taking back layers of metal, just in case I'm not left with much of an exhaust. It does appear to be pretty solid - or more solid that I was expecting at least.

 

Brazing will work, but you need clean metal to braze to, by the time you have found some brazing might not be an option any more :D

 

I'd be inclined to try a chemical fix first but accept that it won't last forever.

Posted

Well, I almost feel cheated... dragged the Piaggio out of the BX, lobbed in a litre of fresh fuel and the battery off the chainsaw ped, and it ran like a good 'un! Moves under it's own power and everything; no seized brakes, nothing - I couldn't even find any duff lights that needed fixing. So I gave it a clean, and wazzed a bit of Mer and T-Cut over the appropriate bits, I think it's come up quite well.

 

post-19532-0-11966400-1513434113_thumb.jpg

 

post-19532-0-02190400-1513434293_thumb.jpg

 

The bodywork fits where it touches, as is the case with most peds of this type. I'll replace all the missing screws and try and find a replacement for that missing vent. Brake pads cost pennies for these tiddlers, so it'll be treated to new ones and fresh fluid before it goes up before the MOT tester.

 

And then... COMING TO A FOR SALE THRED NEAR U M8.

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Brazing will work, but you need clean metal to braze to, by the time you have found some brazing might not be an option any more :D

 

I'd be inclined to try a chemical fix first but accept that it won't last forever.

 

Yeah, I'll definitely try a chemical fix first - the hole in the collector area is really very small but I'm keeping my eyes open for a new replacement aftermarket system at the same time.

 

Do you have any recommendations for a chemical solution, cheap and cheerful regular epoxy or chemical metal (JB weld etc.)?

Posted

It won’t work - tried it around an oxygen sensor on an old Audi 80 - blew out in about 10 mins

Posted

 

 

And then... COMING TO A FOR SALE THRED NEAR U M8.

Keep me posted

Can't shift the back wheel on doom.

Will try bigger breaker bar tomoz

Posted

Can't shift the back wheel on doom.

Will try bigger breaker bar tomoz

 

Arse. Is it the nut you can't shift or is the drum just stuck on the brake?

Posted

Arse. Is it the nut you can't shift or is the drum just stuck on the brake?

I think the drum is wedged on the brake.

Not sure if there is a lip that's stopping it.

Currently dark and pissing it down so left it for now

 

Sent from my KFDOWI using Tapatalk

Posted

I think the drum is wedged on the brake.

Not sure if there is a lip that's stopping it.

 

 

I got it off OK to paint it, I wonder if something has let go in there, as you suspected.

  • Like 1
Posted

royal enfield interceptor <3

 

eicma can fuck right off cos it doesnt come out in india till nov 18 :(

 

that means 3-4 more here

 

id love a z900 rs but just found out 10k + fek that lovely but no

  • Like 1
Posted

royal enfield interceptor <3

 

eicma can fuck right off cos it doesnt come out in india till nov 18 :(

 

that means 3-4 more here

 

id love a z900 rs but just found out 10k + fek that lovely but no

 

Just get yourself a Zephyr with a fancy exhaust system, job done ;)

 

11f9be6d6d29bbbfadc030fc36dff791.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

It won’t work - tried it around an oxygen sensor on an old Audi 80 - blew out in about 10 mins

 

Perhaps I should just get the Poundland epoxy resin in that case? :mrgreen:

Posted

Just arrived at my local bar for some Sunday beers and NFL and was greeted by this in the parking lot..

 

post-3927-0-52377800-1513533096_thumb.jpg

post-3927-0-02651000-1513533154_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

best scooter

 

That's not a very high bar.

Posted

The true Autoshite version, would be the Chinese clone variant ;)

 

CF250T-D(2).JPG

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BM3Ohz3eOPk

 

We didn't get the CFmoto Fashion but we did get the Jialing JL-250, another useless clone in much the same vein. Terrible things! I owned one very briefly, the only thing you can say in their favour is that the bodywork, seat, screen, wheels, lights etc. are directly interchangeable with the Helix. I used all that, and sold or scrapped the stuff with moving parts.

 

I got it cheap because it had no drive. The reason for this was, as I'd suspected, a snapped belt. But what I hadn't counted on was the fact that, on its way out, the belt had destroyed the rear clutch assembly. I had a look at the paperwork that came with it: total mileage = 3500km, front wheel bearings replaced at 1000km, final drive bearings replaced at 2500km... in addition to all this, the shysters who imported it (a bunch of fly-by-nights in Ipswich) had registered it as a 125 - the seller had been riding it on L-plates! - in order to get rid of the last few of these crocks before they closed their doors. Nice.

 

I dismantled it and used the shiny panels on a battered old Helix (a 1990 bike, that I still own). The mechanical shite I was about to weigh in, but I stuck it on Gumtree, more out of curiosity that anything else. Completely out of the blue, a bloke rang me and asked if I still had the engine? His JL-250 had blown up, with 5000km on the clock, and he needed a replacement. I sold it to him for what I'd paid for the heap in the first place. Feeling sorry for him I gave him all the other mechanical crap too, and wished him the best of luck.

 

He obviously didn't have much luck, because the last time I checked on howmanyleft there were no JL-250s left. Terrible things. Absolute junk.

 

I know where there is one, though...

Posted

I have welded up exhausts like that before, not easy but do-able if you use low power and go slow. Much better than chemical stuff.

 

I used to ride all year round (and still did up to a few years ago on dirt bikes round the lanes. The last time I ever rode a bike was in ice and snow and I hated it and quit that afternoon. Pain in the cold used to ramp up ridiculously) up in the frozen North. I found it made me a much better rider and you don't get rusty over winter. I had a CB750 (K6 if anyone cares :)   ) and just coated it in waxoyl everywhere and carried on. Washed it off in spring with petrol (when it was cheap) and the bike was perfect though it had spent months looking like something that had been dredged from the Humber!

 

After a couple of years of being a hero, I bought cheap cars from the auctions and hoped they made it to spring!

Posted

 

I know where there is one, though...

 

That sounds interesting... :mrgreen:

Posted

In other news today, I won the auction for a brand new ZR550 (Motad) stainless exhaust system for the bike.

 

I also scrubbed the original exhaust with Harpic Max and it has actually made an impact on the rust!

 

I've only had a short amount to time to spend on the exhaust this afternoon but I'll revisit the system later in the week if time allows.

 

One of my pals is going to weld the collector area, however, what he says he will do, and when he gets round to doing it (if at all) are very different matters ;)

  • Like 2

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