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Guest Hooli

I would have got the new chain n sprockets fitted today but it turns out when ordering loads of random parts over a couple of months I forgot one bit. The dust cover for the sprocket carrier bearing,,,,bugger!

 

 

Still for those clean pervs out there (Jazoli) I have turned this

 

20170319_125136_zpsrqrhy6lj.jpg

 

Into this

 

20170319_134617_zpsw65ahtcw.jpg

 

The original wheel bearings are still perfectly smooth & have no play, it does make me laugh that I know people who change them at 10 or 20k because they 'must be worn by now' errr why?

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I've been busy prepping the R1 for Wednesdays trackday at Oulton, change of gearing -2, +3 (which is hilarious on the road) and removing things like mirrors and number plates, forecast looks crap though 😒

 

And a bit of cleaning as the chain was a bit grubby after 200 miles 😆

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The original wheel bearings are still perfectly smooth & have no play, it does make me laugh that I know people who change them at 10 or 20k because they 'must be worn by now' errr why?

 

One the one occasion I've had a wheel bearing fail there was precious little notice and it wasn't nice, so if I was doing a refit like yours I'd definitely replace them. Even decent ones like FAG or SKF are cheap, so it's a no brainer IMO.

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Guest Hooli

One the one occasion I've had a wheel bearing fail there was precious little notice and it wasn't nice, so if I was doing a refit like yours I'd definitely replace them. Even decent ones like FAG or SKF are cheap, so it's a no brainer IMO.

 

 

Pfft, I want to know how long they last...

 

Besides I get free recovery with my insurance.

 

Oh & I have had a wheel bearing fail on the back of a bike, it just wobbled a bit down the road like a soft tyre. So I guess it depends how they fail. Anyway the wheels are out every 6k or so for tyre changes & I always check them then.

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Pfft, I want to know how long they last...

 

Besides I get free recovery with my insurance.

 

Oh & I have had a wheel bearing fail on the back of a bike, it just wobbled a bit down the road like a soft tyre. So I guess it depends how they fail. Anyway the wheels are out every 6k or so for tyre changes & I always check them then.

 

It was a front one that went on me; it went very quickly and nearly had me off. I wasn't going as fast as that 14 of yours will go either.

 

Best of luck with finding out how long they last anyway!

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Pfft, I want to know how long they last...

 

Besides I get free recovery with my insurance.

 

Oh & I have had a wheel bearing fail on the back of a bike, it just wobbled a bit down the road like a soft tyre. So I guess it depends how they fail. Anyway the wheels are out every 6k or so for tyre changes & I always check them then.

never had a bearing fail on a bike

 

had bikes with 100k on them and no problem

 

if you have the wheels out and you think they need changing - change them for 10 mins 10 quid and some grease its not worth not doing it when you might not long after

 

had a cb900 new 15 years ago (FEK) and did 25k on it in 18 months and nothing like that needed changing

 

current bike is 31k at 3 yeaars old and no they dont need doing either they get checked when it needs brakes or tyres if they dont wobble - fuk dat noise jack

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I'm not keen on scotoilers. Ripped one off the ZZR when I bought it, much prefer manually lubing the chain once a week, or before a long run. Wurth dry lube is nice and clean and easy to apply.

I still have the scotoiler, it's a bit worse for wear but is more or less complete and does seem to work as far as I can tell. Free to any interested parties for cost of postage

 

Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk

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Managed to sneak the Targa in under the radar - runs rough (bogs, then revs fine, then stalls) so I suspect a carb rebuild on the books Will hide in the shed tomorrow.

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Bike wheel bearings never wear out - they succumb to rust / water ingress due to jet washing and worn seals and spacers

This absolutely, it's why used trials and mx bikes always need new bearings.

Have ridden plenty of off road bikes at speed with shot bearings, it's not pleasant but didn't feel like imminent doom either

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Scotoilers are great. After many a shafty, my last despatch steed was a brand new 2002 SV650. Fitted a Scotoiler and the behind the number plate touring reservior and topped it up about every 4k. Did 27000 miles in 9 months, stopped despatching and did another 3k in 9 months. Sold at 30k with the original chain that still had plenty of adjustment left. Estimate I could of got to 50k out of the chain.

 

If I were to manually lube a chain under those conditions, I'd be lubing the fucking thing morning, noon and night!

 

4615647874_41794e351a_z.jpg

DSCF0001 by E Honda, on Flickr

 

 

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Scotoilers are great. After many a shafty, my last despatch steed was a brand new 2002 SV650. Fitted a Scotoiler and the behind the number plate touring reservior and topped it up about every 4k. Did 27000 miles in 9 months, stopped despatching and did another 3k in 9 months. Sold at 30k with the original chain that still had plenty of adjustment left. Estimate I could of got to 50k out of the chain.

 

If I were to manually lube a chain under those conditions, I'd be lubing the fucking thing morning, noon and night!

 

4615647874_41794e351a_z.jpg

DSCF0001 by E Honda, on Flickr

Haha I do maybe 20 miles a day commuting. Not every day either!

 

79608b17abb9a5c05ea3d1e675f77936.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk

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I forgot to put up pictures the other day, but I made it to and from Blackpool alive.

 

Here are some rubbish pics of my prize*

 

post-17573-0-46331200-1490047319_thumb.jpg

 

post-17573-0-28077300-1490047342_thumb.jpg

 

It's in pretty decent shape overall, although it has been extensively modified with a tin of black Hammerite - frame used to be red, clocks used to be chrome, etc.

 

Rear is jacked up 50mm, not sure on the look but the standard bits are there to lower it again if I decide to.

 

I've sourced most of the stuff I need, still looking for a seat, a headlight and a few other bits. 

 

Naturally by the time I've found it all I'll have spent slightly more than just buying a whole one in the first place, but meh.

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Guest Hooli

I'm not keen on scotoilers. Ripped one off the ZZR when I bought it, much prefer manually lubing the chain once a week, or before a long run. Wurth dry lube is nice and clean and easy to apply.

 

 

 

What with normally using mine all year I wouldn't be without a Scotoiler, nothing else helps keep the salt off the chain enough for it to last.

 

 

 

Rear is jacked up 50mm, not sure on the look but the standard bits are there to lower it again if I decide to.

 

 

You probably already know, but a jackup kit reduces the rake so makes the steering a lot more twitchy & unstable. Some love it, some don't.

 

 

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So I decided I'd better get me a moped before UltraWomble buys them all:

 

DSC01366.JPG

 

Looks OK in the dark, further investigation to be made during daylight hours...

Class in a glass!

 

Is it variated?

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Class in a glass!

 

Is it variated?

 

Haven't checked yet, but I think these are single speed with a centrifugal clutch. Fingers crossed I'll have time for a play this evening...

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If it's the single speed engine (is it called an AV7 or something?) I had one in my Raleigh RM4. Amazingly, delightfully slow. My most enduring memory of it was being overtaken by a cyclist who couldn't quite believe my lack of progress.

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So I decided I'd better get me a moped before UltraWomble buys them all:

 

 

Hey, Im not that bad!

Looks a tidy little thing that and plenty of ways to enhance the performance if you find "pootle" a bit sedate.

 

Anyway  - I thought Id ask on here..A quick (and potentially controversial) question - are there any engines that will bolt into the Honda PC50 frame (OHV) easily? Im aware that there is a Chinese clone knocking about badged as Indian and that the engines from these can be taken up to 70cc, but as Im not suicidal with the PC 50 brakes are only just up to the 1.8hp - really Im just after a 50 with a bit more grunt than the stock item. It looks like the bike I have is about as popular as a dose of VD with no reg docs so I may as well build something with it and Q plate it for winter use - or ( and I keep saying this) do the Gatescarth Pass on a 50 with knobblies...

The existing donkey will fire up, but has a distinct lack of grunt when running well anyway ( and the carb is fooked).

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Bike wheel bearings never wear out - they succumb to rust / water ingress due to jet washing and worn seals and spacers

 

That and swing arm/suspension linkages too. The number of times I've seen the power-ranger & roughty-toughty off-road brigade jet washing their Gixxers, BMW GS etc, shoving the lance right into bearing housings and engines makes me shudder. Muppets. 

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That is a Motobecane Mobylette 40T and there is a dearth of tuning bits available, dans Le Belle France http://garage.1977mopeds.com/build/Black+40T

 

So I decided I'd better get me a moped before UltraWomble buys them all:

 

attachicon.gifDSC01366.JPG

 

Looks OK in the dark, further investigation to be made during daylight hours...

 

 

 

 

 

 

post-19532-0-42637700-1490125828.jpg

 

And many many more in that there Africa.

 

 

post-7239-0-34253600-1490267979_thumb.jpg

 

 

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After bleeding the front brakes on the 1100RT, I've just noticed that the lower front right two-half flexi hose is weeping. Bollocks.

 

£150 for a complete aftermarket braided set (front/rear), or £90 for that individual hose from BMW.

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What do I know about this Mobylette then?

 

Well, I CAN HAZ MANUALS for a start...

 

post-19532-0-72900100-1490360991_thumb.jpg

 

Registered new in the UK in 1979 and last tax disc ran out in 1981, so when I get to taking it for an MOT it will be its first!

 

It's been painted (quite well) in the wrong shade of blue.

 

It produces a nice, fat spark when the pedals are turned, 2T mixing bottle ordered - when that comes I'll see if it runs.

 

It all looks good, except for some sideways play in the pedal crank. I'm going to study the parts manual and see if it's been re-assembled wrongly after it was painted. Seems unlikely that something's worn out given the overall condition of the thing, and how little use it has seen.

 

Hopefully more progress to report soon!

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If you need any bits you should check out Brian Aplin if he's still on the go. The most old school and cheapest and best specialist in these imaginable.

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RE Vespa tunage, my SIP road has turned up and I also have a 150 barrel kit to go on. I've not drilled the filter yet but will do when lobbing it all together.

 

What size main jet am I likely to need? I think the set I have is 96-104, should I start at 104 and work down via plug chops?

 

Cheerz.

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RE Vespa tunage, my SIP road has turned up and I also have a 150 barrel kit to go on. I've not drilled the filter yet but will do when lobbing it all together.

 

What size main jet am I likely to need? I think the set I have is 96-104, should I start at 104 and work down via plug chops?

 

Cheerz.

Class, I'd be interested to know how you get on with the 150 kit, which one did you go for?

 

Mines a 125 with the same pipe and it seems happiest with a 102 which is big according to internet wisdom, but they really do vary from bike to bike. In theory you should be in the 102-104 range, so defo start with the 104 or maybe even a 106 if you were feeling cautious. Take it super easy obvs and plug chop lots! Oh, and maybe check the ports are nicely chamfered on the kit. Apparently that kills lots of them.

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