Spiny Norman Posted April 4, 2012 Posted April 4, 2012 That's got to be a contender for the AS 2013 calendar! Really loving this thread, keep it up. PS...The temptation to make some lame "Not a happy bunny.." comment has proved too much, sorry..
vulgalour Posted April 11, 2012 Author Posted April 11, 2012 Tiny little update today really. Normally, I'd have a bunch of pictures to share with you, but not today, the camera just wouldn't cooperate for some reason until it got dark, and then it would cooperate but the flash wouldn't go off. I have no idea with my camera at the moment, I think it's unwell. Car-wise, the exhaust is even worse and having had a look and a feel, the entire downpipe join on the passenger side is blowing, it might as well not even be attached. Car sounds atrocious because of it and probably isn't running so well either, so I've bumped exhaust clamps up the to do list. Additionally, when I had done my quota of work and got out to do some wet-sanding, the weather decided to help. I got most of the section done that I wanted to and found out that the top part of the front passenger door has so much paint on it that I could cut back quite a way and get the start of a pretty good finish. Looks like dust or something has got into the paint on the flat surface next to the weather strip, so that's another tiny section to blend in when I go round and do that. I was hoping to get the metallic paint on the bootlid finished off, but the weather unfortunately put paid to that. Overall, I'm happy that the paint on the Princess just needs some TLC and, at most, a fresh lacquer coat. I doubt there's any point going for a full respray as all the problem areas are very small and localised, making them rather easy to blend in.
vulgalour Posted April 19, 2012 Author Posted April 19, 2012 Update time! I'm still trying to find out how water is getting into the boot. I think it's coming through the trim holes in the pillars but I'm not 100% sure, I'm going to do some leak testing with kitchen towel and a watering can to find out when I have a dry day. In the meantime, I'm just mopping out the water whenever I see it and when there's a dry day I'll get the drill out and make some drain holes before rust proofing and painting it so it doesn't get worse. Exhaust was blowing again so we tried to fix it. Only the passenger side down-pipe to manifold join is actually blowing, so I only split that side. Removed the clamp and cleaned up the old paste. The top of the clamp all the way around is soot covered as the blow starts at the join on the clamp on the wing side and then creeps around until the whole join is going. Since we had the time, we did this properly rather than bodging it. Once everything was cleaned up, we got the trolley jack under the exhaust pipe... well we tried but the bump on the garage entrance meant we didn't have enough room. Got the factory jack - which is very well designed - and found the ratchet has gone in the handle so we had to bodge some tools together to serve as a handle. Once everything was in place, the join was pasted up as normal and then the trolley jack used to get the pipe seated properly and held in place so you don't have to have a billion pairs of arms to hold everything together. Because we knew the exhaust would blow again we tried to take some extra precautionary measures, getting the aluminium tape and wrapping it around the join after it was all seated. More paste was then applied to the clamp before applying that too. Once everything was bolted up and the the car run up to temperature the blow was gone, which was great... for a few miles. Then the blow was back again. I didn't have time to redo it before the club meet and just pushed more paste into the worst of the blow that had appeared but of course this was never going to work and by the time I got home again it was blowing just as bad as ever. I'm waiting on some new cast clamps arriving that my Dad has ordered which may solve the problem as it could be the current clamp is shot. It could also be that the downpipe is buggered on the ends because of the previous bodgery that we documented. I suspect this exhaust will continue to be a headache for some time to come. At the club meet, I got to meet a slightly newer Austin.
Mr_Bo11ox Posted April 19, 2012 Posted April 19, 2012 Have you got a clamp on the bottom of the downpipe that attaches it to the back of the diff?
vulgalour Posted April 19, 2012 Author Posted April 19, 2012 I don't know. I'm told a bracket has come off the pipe somewhere around the gearbox area so I'm wondering if that's part of the problem?
Rocket88 Posted April 19, 2012 Posted April 19, 2012 Good tip for leak traceing. Get a tin of talcum powder, and apply to suspected point of water ingress. Water will leave a trace mark in the powder.
Mr_Bo11ox Posted April 19, 2012 Posted April 19, 2012 Sounds like the same thing, the exhaust is supposed to be fastened rigidly to the back of the gearbox/diff, if its not the movement of the engine will pop the manifold joint after the 3rd set of traffic lights! I know this from bitter experience. If the clamp is missing you can easily make one from a bit of steel plate and an ordinary exhaust clamp and just bolt it on via one of the nuts holding the diff on. Without that I can say for certain that your cast manifold clamps will not solve this problem.
Rocket88 Posted April 19, 2012 Posted April 19, 2012 Just get another ordinary exhaust clamp and a bit of flat Dexion [with holes in it] attach clamp to pipe, then use Dexion to bolt to appropriate diff housing nut/bolt.
meggersdog Posted April 19, 2012 Posted April 19, 2012 Without the diff clamp constant rocking of the engine can cause the lip of the downpipe to crack so have a real good look before applying more paste.
vulgalour Posted April 28, 2012 Author Posted April 28, 2012 Today's update involves checking stuff. That's 13 1/4" from wheel centre to arch lip. It should be 14 1/2" instead so I have to get that pumped up. Happily, Captain Slow (no, not Mr May) gave me a jolly useful list and there's a hydragas pumping place a stone's throw from home. The front suspension sits at about 14", but I'm guessing this will change when I get the rear pumped up properly. Checked the CV boot that my brother had said was split. I couldn't see the split but Dad had a rummage around and came away with greasy fingers, thus proving there is indeed a split. I can get a replacement for this fairly easily and for not a huge amount so that's on my to do list. When in traffic today, I pushed the screenwash button and nothing happened. The motor has stopped making any noise when the button is pressed even though there's plenty of screenwash in the bottle, so I think that's conked out or I've blown a fuse, something to check in daylight. Exhaust clamp is in the post, finally, so that can be fixed soon I hope, the current blow is returning about 20mpg which is shockingly bad even for a Princess. That missing bracket will be replaced too. I'm considering taking the Princess for a 'health check' so I can find out exactly what's needed for the next MoT in September. I'm still learning so it would be good to have a checklist. Currently, my to do list in time for the MoT is this: >Driver's side CV boot >Adjust reverse gear sensor so reverse lights come on reliably >Adjust headlamps properly >Pump up suspension >Little bit of welding to floors >Stop exhaust blowing >Investigate why screen wash no longer works >Investigate play in steering column >Replace driver's window mechanism I think the leak is coming from the seam on the top side of the boot as I noticed some sort of grey paste has been applied badly in an area suspiciously close to where I've seen the water in the boot, noticed this when I was rummaging around getting stuff out of the boot after doing a bit of shopping today.
vulgalour Posted April 30, 2012 Author Posted April 30, 2012 Update time again. As a reminder, this is my list of stuff to check from last time and what I've decided: >Driver's side CV boot - yep, that's buggered. Actually, this is the steering gaiter, not the CV boot, my bad. >Adjust reverse gear sensor so reverse lights come on reliably >Adjust headlamps properly >Pump up suspension - Actually, I probably won't need to do this as it's not far enough off from where it should be so I'm leaving it alone for now. >Little bit of welding to floors >Stop exhaust blowing - still waiting on that part arriving. >Investigate why screen wash no longer works - fixed! >Investigate play in steering column - gone away, automagically. >Replace driver's window mechanism Today has been relatively good so after doing my post and shopping errands I decided to have a poke around the Princess to see what I could see. The first thing I wanted to find out was which of my sealed beam headlights were good and which weren't. I had 4 that came with some brackets I wanted to use on the Polo, one of which already proved to be good and ended up replacing the blown unit on the Princess shortly after buying her. For some reason I never got around to testing the other three. One didn't work at all, and another worked at first but when I turned it to main beam white smoke filled the bowl as the filament dimmed and burnt itself out, it was a very pretty thing to watch. So that was two in the bin. Happily, this one is still good so I do still have a spare bulb should I need it in the future. Upgrade my lights? Nah, the sealed beams are adequate and I like how they look. Next, I wanted to find out why that washer jet pump had stopped working. First stop was the fuse box. All present and correct, so it's not that. Worth noting that I've brought the cover in and I'll be filling in all the letters anew with white paint which is a job I've been putting off for no good reason. It's quite neat that on the back of the fuse box cover there are clips to hold spare fuses in the likely event that the ones in there fail. Perplexed, I turned the motor around on the side of the washer bottle and noticed the plug was loose. Pushed it back on properly and hey presto, my washer jets work again. That was easy. Next was to investigate the boot that had split. The weird play I was getting in the steering column has vanished, I have no idea why, but I don't mind that it has. Underneath the car I spotted this, which is some of the paste and tape we used to attempt to seal the exhaust, blown out from between the clamp and the pipe. The new clamp is due to arrive today (which it hasn't) or tomorrow so I'm still unable to do anything about the exhaust until it arrives. Steering rack gaiter. Pretty mullered, this was only split part way before but now it's completely gone all the way around. I've been wondering how best to preserve and/or replace the various stickers in the engine bay. The ones on the head have been painted over badly and the Autosol I have seems to clean the flaky old paint off rather nicely, but the one on the driver's inner wing hasn't fared so well over the years. Finally, although I didn't get a shot of it, I think I found a repair to the bottom of the driver's side front wing. The edge of the arches look quite solid but there's a 3" by 4" rectangle at the bottom of the trailing edge that has underseal over it which will likely need redoing. Not a massive problem. My housemate asked me when I was going to get everything fixed on the Princess and it made me realise there's really not that much *to* fix as far as I can tell, at least not mechanically. I've not found anything that I wouldn't consider to be expected as part of the annual pre-MoT type service so I'm feeling rather positive about the old girl at the moment.
e287yba Posted April 30, 2012 Posted April 30, 2012 One bit of good news from those pics - assuming that the photo is facing towards the front of the car - is that the car's steering rack gaiter has split and not the driveshaft inner gaiter . And the way I clean up mucky washer bottles (and plastic expansion tanks) is to remove all fittings (including the pump) then soak it in a bucket full of washing detergent for as long as you can (days ratherthan overnight, if possible). And I'd put some Milton in the washer fluid in future to keep "the sludge" away . Good work, very impressed !
vulgalour Posted April 30, 2012 Author Posted April 30, 2012 The picture is facing the front, the angle of the drive was actually useful for once as it gave me a lovely clear view. So... does that mean I actually need a steering rack gaiter instead of a CV boot? The steering rack gaiters aren't available from the local shop, but CV boots are. I'm still learning what's what under here, very much a novice with mechanical stuff. [edited to add] Now I look at stuff, I can see it's a steering rack gaiter now, found a pair on eBay for £13 inc. P&P which isn't too bad[end edit] I need to get the engine bay sparkly clean like the interior, should be less work as it's a damned sight cleaner than what I had to contend with on the upholstery!
eddyramrod Posted April 30, 2012 Posted April 30, 2012 It might be worth surfing the web a bit for your underbonnet stickers. I'm sure you can get a variety for different models (mostly Fords, probably). Somebody here will know better than I do.
e287yba Posted April 30, 2012 Posted April 30, 2012 The picture is facing the front, the angle of the drive was actually useful for once as it gave me a lovely clear view. So... does that mean I actually need a steering rack gaiter instead of a CV boot? The steering rack gaiters aren't available from the local shop, but CV boots are. I'm still learning what's what under here, very much a novice with mechanical stuff. [edited to add] Now I look at stuff, I can see it's a steering rack gaiter now, found a pair on eBay for £13 inc. P&P which isn't too bad[end edit] I need to get the engine bay sparkly clean like the interior, should be less work as it's a damned sight cleaner than what I had to contend with on the upholstery! You're not a novice, believe me . You'd be running the car into the ground rather than trying to bodge exhaust manifold clamp joints with sealant and foil, or working out that the steering rack gaiter as opposed to the driveshaft inner joint gaiter has failed, for example. Spotting the loose connector to the screen washer pump, reattaching and noting it as a future issue is the clincher - that you're in no way a novice - for me .
vulgalour Posted May 1, 2012 Author Posted May 1, 2012 @eddy: good thinking, Batman. You've reminded me about a Triumph sticker set someone was after, so there must be BL stuff out there too. @e287yba: Thank you I'll still think of myself as a novice, I think in some ways to stop myself being one of those arrogant tossers that insist on diagnosing problems on cars when they don't know their arse from their elbow. That said, I have been of use to other people when they've not known what's wrong with their car and I have, so perhaps I'm not quite as much of a novice as I think I am at times. Teensy little extra update to add to what I'd already done. I have been painstakingly hand painting the text back on to the fuse box cover with white Humbrol paint and a 4/0 size brush to reasonable effect. I've not done this sort of work since my wrist injury flared up last year, so I'm quite pleased with the result, even though it's not perfect. Rather than give it a second coat, I'm leaving it slightly faded looking so it looks more like the bits that were still visible before the repaint. Normally, I'd've just splodged the paint on and used some fine wet-and-dry paper to take off the excess, leaving the paint in the recess of the stamped letters. Unfortunately I couldn't do that as the numbers weren't stamped deeply or evenly and in some places I had to guess completely at what shape things should be. This is the before. And this is the after. This is another little cosmetic job off my list and a tiny step towards bringing the Princess up to the standard I want her to be. Obviously it's not perfect, but I don't want the car to be perfect, I want her to wear a bit of age but not in a forced patina sort of a way.
vulgalour Posted May 6, 2012 Author Posted May 6, 2012 What I started off doing today was some exploratory demolition of a flower bed which, before I began, looked something like this (photograph taken last year, but it shows what was there well enough). Bear with me, there is a reason for showing off my manly* rock moving skills. After much grunt work, I'd uncovered a big concrete slab. I'll extend this a bit and reuse the big rocks to build a new retaining wall before more digging and demolition, possibly moving the shed too, so we can plonk a small single garage here. The reason for doing this job first was to get the little cars out of the way a bit. As you can see, there's still a skinny line of dirt and rocks to remove, but it was getting on and I was just about done from all that lugging. Next thing was to see if I could get the Princess at least a bit out of the way using this space. I knew I probably couldn't, but it didn't hurt to try. Once that wall is down and the new wall built to the left, the Princess will just squeeze on there, which means either the Polo or my housemate's Peugeot will both sit on there very happily and it gives me some flat working space at home. However, I knew it wasn't ideal for my housemate when he got back from work so I thought I'd put the Princess back in her usual spot, but for some reason decided to reverse her in instead of driving her in... which is when I hit the house. You'd think nobody could be that special, but here I am, licking windows. Turned her around to assess the damage a bit better. Swore at myself a few times, then at the car, then apologised to the car, then realised I was talking to myself... So, that's the best panel on the car now dented, well done me. When I said I was going to spend my week off working on my cars, this is not what I had in mind. Best of all, it's a bank holiday so I can't go and get any grey primer to sort out that panel until Tuesday. Bumper off tomorrow to inspect the damage properly and see what I can do about the shallow dents I've gained. Shame about the inverted pimple on the bumper corner, up until now that's been a really good bumper and I've probably wrecked it now. I am not happy with myself, this was a really stupid thing to have done.
Skizzer Posted May 6, 2012 Posted May 6, 2012 Bugger Don't beat yourself up over it though, everyone does stuff like that some time. Hope it's a straightforward fix.
Danblez Posted May 6, 2012 Posted May 6, 2012 Ahhhhhhhh shit, try not to worry about it. You are doing such a great job on the car you will easily get that sorted. I dropped a plug socket on my one perfect wing this afternoon and left a massive chip down to the metal. I know how you feel but it is just an accident. Dont beat yourself up! GR9 work on everything else btw
ruffgeezer Posted May 6, 2012 Posted May 6, 2012 Bad times on the bruised backend, but if you are talking of a small single garage, I've my set of 2/3 here (£100 if you are a shite'er) you could keep all the good bits and flog the rest if you want, I don't mind I just want my slab emptied! I'm not far from you either
e287yba Posted May 6, 2012 Posted May 6, 2012 Oops! That's nothing to what happens when you do the same to a 2 foot bollard with an Ambassador, though, as a friend once did. A concave rear quarter panel - not like your inverted pimple, but a very visible concavity from the rear corner to the bottom of the C-post) was the result of that one, as well as a smashed rear indicator lens (and they were as common as rocking horse poo even back in 1987!). Your bumper did its job . Mind you, my friend also parked the Ambasadorsideways in a 12 foot late flanked by hedgerows at around that time. He also wrote off an MG Metro with it less than 24 hours after passing his test, and the only damage to the Ambassador was the headlight and front indicator pushed bodily back a couple of millimetres... They are tough cars! It was his parents' car, and they weren't too amused . Still, on the sunny side, it's all otherwise looking good and so will your repairs after this little setback .
eddyramrod Posted May 6, 2012 Posted May 6, 2012 @eddy: good thinking, Batman. Erm, how did you know? GR9 detail work though, excellent! Wouldn't worry too much about the reversing damage, at least you were facing the right way ready for exit. Oops! That's nothing to what happens when you do the same to a 2 foot bollard with an Ambassador, though, 1991: 2 foot iron-girder bollard, Leyland Daf 400 van. Need I say more?
KruJoe Posted May 6, 2012 Posted May 6, 2012 Ouch! That must hurt. As the man said......everyone does stuff like that some time...Still, it's horrible when it happens.It's a long while since I bumped a car, I think the last time was when I reversed at full speed into a bollard in the dark. MOAR BOLLARD WARS! That made a mess of my Suzuki Swift 4WD saloon. A rare thing even then, I drove the length of the country for a boot lid and bumper. Shiteing was tough, pre-interwebz.Keep up the good work on Princess, she's already prettier than any of my tat will ever be! PS, get that downpipe clamp made up now! I'm sure someone told you a few pages back, before the latest exhaust woes! I know on Minis (similar set-up?) this item is vital. Onwards and upwards.
Spiny Norman Posted May 6, 2012 Posted May 6, 2012 Commiserations. I smacked our caravan with mine the day before someone was due to come out to buy it. (the van) Van was in a field, on a hill. It had just rained and the grass was slippery and as I touched the brakes to pull up behind the van the wheels locked up (at about 5mph) and I had one of those mega-embarassing slow-mo crashes that you can see coming but can do nothing to avoid. It did no real damage to the car at all, I think it might have cracked one of the spotlights I'd just had fitted but it left a big dent in the caravan. 1979 Princess 1, 1976 Thomson T-line 0 The folk still bought it, albeit after chiselling £100 off the price.
vulgalour Posted May 6, 2012 Author Posted May 6, 2012 Thank you for sharing your stories of woe with the crashing into things, that's cheered me up a bit. That bracket picture is super useful! My bracket only had half the metal left and that was the half attached to the exhaust so I'll definitely be knocking a replacement up and now I have a decent guide to go off for what to make. I'm not really using the car at the moment, lack of petrol, lack of funds and waiting for parts to arrive mean that I'm focusing more on getting that new hard standing area tidied up so I can do maintenance at home rather than having to drive to my parents for the flat space there. This is the week I hope to achieve many things, not least getting my exhaust to stop blowing, then fitting the new gaiter... then it's all cosmetic really which just takes a lot of time and not too much money doing it the sensitive restoration sort of a way I'm going. At least I now know better than to reverse onto the driveway in this car. @ruffgeezer: You have PM... or will in just a tick.
eddyramrod Posted May 6, 2012 Posted May 6, 2012 At least I now know better than to reverse onto the driveway Anyone who's passed a UK driving test knows better than to not reverse onto their driveway! Sadly, many appear to forget a basic element I've managed to remember for 30-odd years... [/pet hobbyhorse] (I know you can't see the back of your Princess, but IIRC you'd need to be a pretty odd shape to see where the front finishes too.)
vulgalour Posted May 6, 2012 Author Posted May 6, 2012 That's what the rose bush is for, it wiggles when I'm as close to the house as is safe. It's a very Austin sort of a parking sensor. As for reversing onto driveways, normally I would but the angles of this one and the fact that the lane outside is rarely used as it's not classed as a road (unsuitable for motor vehicles signs at the top and bottom of it) it's not such a hardship reversing out. My parent's drive, on the other hand, is much more sensible to reverse on and drive off since they're on a cul-de-sac full of children with no road sense.
boobydoo Posted May 7, 2012 Posted May 7, 2012 This whole ka-fuffle seems a complete waste of time to me. BEFORE: RHS Award- winning rockery but no extra room for second car. AFTER: Demolished award winning rockery and still no room for second car. PLUS annoying dent on first car. Que?
vulgalour Posted May 7, 2012 Author Posted May 7, 2012 @boobydoo: sorry... I guess I was supergrumpy about spending all day doing all that work only to give myself more work by being a twunt, and wanted to waste everyone else's by sharing the woe Still, I got to read some amusing anecdotes and reversing into things from fellow shiters. ___ Today I decided to have a look at what I'd actually done to the car. It's nowhere near as bad as I thought, as I had been reassured by other readers, so that's a good thing. First job was to remove the bumper. Two 14mm bolts on the side which were quite stiff and two 13mm bolts in the middle which weren't. The twist in the bumper untwisted as soon as the driver's side bolt was undone. I was very happy to discover it looks like the back of the bumper has been waxoyled too just like the inside of all the doors and probably the inside of the arches. I've bent one bracket but the two centre brackets look a bit bent too, so I'll pull these back to shape when I refit. I'll give this a jolly good clean with the Autosol I've got before refitting it. There's nothing I can really do about the dented corner, but it's not so bad I feel I have to replace it with a new item right now. While I had the bumper off I thought I'd have a look behind the number plate too and investigate the whole rear valance for damage and repairs. This way I can rectify it all before putting the bumper back on and it gets a bit more of the car finished that, admittedly, I wasn't going to do just yet. First thing was to remove the number plate and I think I now know why the number plate light doesn't illuminate it so well. Next, inspect the damage proper. This is about when it started drizzling fine enough to get everything damp and mean I couldn't do paint, or filler, or much of anything. Bumper off, some paint came with it. I knocked the rest of the loose stuff off too, and I'll get this sanded back before painting it so I don't end up with paint blistering up. I noticed a crack in the paint on the rear panel too, and some paint has come off the seam. I'm going to have to remove the light cluster to tackle that properly, another job I didn't want to have to do yet. After everything had been cleaned down with some plain water, I had a look at what other damage was there. There's a lot of little dents in this panel, mostly invisible when the bumper is attached, so I guess I'm not the only one to reverse into things. There's even a matching (though less severe) dent and crease on the passenger side that's been resprayed before I got the car. All in all, I'm at least comforted that I didn't do too much damage to the old girl. We're supposed to be getting slightly better weather over the course of the week, so I'm hoping to get this all rectified and put back together again. So my goal this week for the Princess is to flat back and tidy up all the paint on the lower rear quarters, rear valance and rear panel. I'll also be getting the exhaust fixed of course which I've been saying for some time now, but the weather has meant I've not been able to get it done.
vulgalour Posted May 8, 2012 Author Posted May 8, 2012 After a somewhat shakey start to the weather today, it cleared up nicely and I managed to get cracking on the back end of the Princess putting right what I did wrong. First job was to get all the loose and cracked paint off. I did manage to crack a bit more paint knocking the worst of the dents out. There's a lot of dents on this part of the car, it looks like it's hit a fair few things in the past. Most of the dents were large and shallow and so only need a bit of persuasion in the form of leaning on the panel a bit, but the driver's side bumper mount had been pushed in a fair bit so I bashed that out with a hammer. The worst dents will need a puller to rectify properly because it's double skinned areas with no access from the back with the tools I have. Eventually, I flatted back the incredibly thick paint with 400 grit getting rid of a few sags and some heavy orange peel in the process, and only just cutting back through to the old paint. This panel looks like it's been repainted a few times, the paint was very thick and there were a fair few layers compared to the other side I'd been working on before. There was a rust stain starting at the bottom of the rear quarter/arch area that had just started to crack. I had a poke and a big chunk of filler fell off to reveal a small repair to a common rot spot. It's actually pretty solid and the filler that's left in the panel is very well stuck so I'm not sure exactly how I'm going to remedy this bit. I'll probably knock as much filler off as will come off and after rust treating the area, blend some new filler in and finish it better than it was. On the same arch, door side, there was a bleb that I thought was rust coming through but was actually a splot in the paint. Seems to be a common theme with this car for 'rust bubbles' to turn out to actually be globby paint, not that I'm complaining. After getting that rear quarter flatted back ready for paint, I moved round to the rear panel. Removed the lights and enough of the boot seal to get access before going at it with more 400grit paper. The top of this panel was really rough, like it had got a lot of muck in the paint or the brush used to apply it. There was also some rust staining where the lock sits, but this turned out to be little more than staining in the paint so I'm wondering if the contaminate was iron filings perhaps? Likewise, over the rear light on the driver's side the paint was rough, and quite thin. It's a lot better now, but will need a top coat blending in. Apart from the dents, this area isn't actually all that bad at all, it's certainly nice and solid. The more I prod at this car the more it seems she's been given an appalling paint job that hides what is a pretty solid body. I only got as far as the lower part of the rear quarter and the driver's side half of the rear panel before having to call it quits as the temperature was dropping a bit and I wanted to try and get some paint on. Quite pleased with how it's turned out, I was expecting much worse. Can't go and buy any grey primer as I'm out of funds so I had to make do with some red. The metal on the Princess starts to go orange a lot faster than the Polo, presumably due to a lack of factory rust-proofing, so I didn't want to leave it to chance too much. Didn't get chance to get any top coat on tonight so I'll tackle that tomorrow when I do a bit more remedial work. For now, it's tidy and at least not exposed metal. Unfortunately my can of red primer is now almost empty, but I do still have a big tin from when I did the work on the Polo, so if I need to I'll get that opened up. I also discovered the rear lights are completely reversible. I won't be keeping them this way, the panel lines clash too much. I have no idea when this information will come in useful, but there you are. Tomorrow, providing the weather is fit, I'll try blending in some new top coat and doing more flatting back in preparation for polishing the back end up and then fitting the bumper. Many, many hours to go on this to get it how I want it.
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