AndySnapper

Been working on the car this morning.
 
First job was to clean out the polish residue and dust from inside the front valance panel.
On the mk2 it’s a totally different panel altogether to the mk3, there’s a huge open space inside it but where it slopes down to its lower edge there’s spot welded joins between the valance and the front cross member, which itself is made up of two panels spot welded together. It’s design means any water that gets inside through the grill/wheel arches etc runs down to drain holes. These are all in the same place where everything spot welds together, which then predictably rusts like buggery.
Since mines all brand new, I’ve filled the inside of the cross member with Dynax S50 cavity wax using an injection lance to get it well covered inside. Then the inside of the valance, radiator support panel and up underneath the slam panel have been given a coat of the clear Dynax UC wax. I’ve payed particular attention to the seams and joins and let the wax run and soak in. I’ve opted for the clear here as the inside of the valance is sprayed blue and it might be partially visible through the grill so the clear wax will let the blue still show through but be well protected.
 

 

 
Next up is to install the new radiator! I’ve wanted to get this into the car for ages, it’s a pain in the arse to store and I’m paranoid the sharp edges are going to end up scratching the car one day when I’m getting it in and out the garage!
 

 
The rad itself is a bit of a hybrid. It’s standard brass Capri Pinto top and bottom tanks, but the core is actually from a Cortina 2.3 so it’s got extra tubes for increased cooling.
 
Here it is back in the car, I got a new fitting kit for it too as the original ones were rusted badly and not really worth trying to clean up. Bolts and washers are stainless.
 

 
Next was my freshly painted top cover panel. Again, installed using new stainless screws.
 

 

 
Finally, I’ve put the new top and bottom radiator hoses on with some new jubilee clamps.
This car originally had those old steel wire style hose clamps that Ford used back in the day. I’ve still got a couple of them but they’re too rusty to use again. Maybe one day I’ll try to get hold of some new ones for that factory look!
 

 
Lastly, here’s a pic of the inner wing with the wiring loom installed. You can also just make out the little black plastic sleeves on the loom retaining tabs, they took ages to clean up!
 

 
It’s starting to come together now!!

Bond Equipe (circa 1965) spotted in Nailsea, North Somerset in April 2019.

Bond Equipe (circa 1965) spotted in Nailsea, North Somerset in April 2019.

Bond Equipe (circa 1965) spotted in Nailsea, North Somerset in April 2019.

Bond Equipe (circa 1965) spotted in Nailsea, North Somerset in April 2019.

Bond Equipe (circa 1965) spotted in Nailsea, North Somerset in April 2019.

Bond Equipe (circa 1965) spotted in Nailsea, North Somerset in April 2019.

another week, more progress, lots of time spent on family important stuff which does cause Mrs thestag to moan "I thought it would be ready for Easter!"
 
Honestly it is not that far off
 
Drivers door fitted out and lined up in about 4 hours flat, nearly 3 times quicker than passenger side. Mainly because I now understand how the shims work in relationship to the hinges and door gaps

 
looking tidy

 
I am also happy with the reflections off the body flanks, for what was effectively a posh farm vehicle.

 
I had to remove both front wings to seam seal and stoneguard the steel behind

 
here it is together for the last time, never to be pulled apart again. by me anyway

 
Electrics next, nice to be able to jump from one job to another. helps relieve stress .. well does for me anyway. I fitted new horn/indicator/flash and light switchs. the other two, wipers and fog lights are recon. none of them were working at this point.

 
so I decided to battle with the rear exhaust section. for 3hours gah!

 
it looks ok, but for me the slant on the exhaust tailpipe is not in line with horizontal. It will piss me off so I am thinking about how to level it all up.

 
I am in the middle of uploading a video on the above to yootoob.
 
But I am also editing a Lucas Prince of Darkness special on anomolies of wiring and diagnosing issues.
 
Watch this space

I think you would find a Tite Reach wrench very useful in that situation with the alternator Ian.
 Here's a link to Amazon but I believe they also have a UK outlet called Trustparts. As Hubnut Channel I would think you warrant a free one for review  https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0788T71SW/?coliid=I1BNPTTYVC2R39&colid=21F31BO6AFYS2&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Also a video here: https://www.trustparts.co.uk/tite-reach Andy

Dan I'm not sure if you've seen this before but it's a short 14 minute film from 1970 about Mk1 Capri production at Koln.
The commentary is in German but it's an interesting film to watch.
 
Check out the part-completed bodyshells around 11.25 to 12.10.
 

I believe the phrase is GET IN!

 
Bloody marvellous. Cooling system is a bit rigged up and currently excludes the heater, while the fuel tank is a bottle of Sprite at the moment. But, it ran very merrily for a goodly while and is quite hilariously brisk in first gear. I really do need to refit the mirrors though! Reversing is terrifying.

FOUND!

 
Buried under a pile of crap funnily enough.

Well done Dan! Hope you get more opportunities to use her now.
 
Andy

I can haz MOT again!
 
Picked this up today with its new ticket, it’s been a while getting it fixed but there were reasons why.
 
Firstly, the welding. It wasn’t where I thought it was. It was actually the hole through the corner of the battery tray! The very same hole that’s been on this car many many years... it’s visible and mentioned earlier on in this thread but I’d put off fixing it in favour of other things since it didn’t seem to be a big issue. Why it wasnt mentioned on earlier mot’s I know not but the hole in the battery tray on these cars is immediately next to the front anti rollbar mount so it is justified. I suppose!
Anyway, it’s been cut back to solid metal and a new lower corner bent up and welded in. I trust the work of the garage I use but I always check afterwards regardless, and the welding looks very good, it’s seam welded all round and it’s not just plated over old rot so I’m happy. It saves me a job doing it myself now too.
 
The ball joint has been changed. The old one was only a fail on a split dust cover but the ball joint itself turned out to be on its way so a whole new one went on instead. The tracking has also been checked and adjusted so that’s that off the list.
 
The rear brakes were more of a pain.
The calliper was slow to be delivered from the supplier, I get the impression these aren’t as common as they once were and tracking one down locally turned up nothing. The one I had to get in the end had to be liberated from a Scottish supplier! No idea why it was such a faff to get but there you go.
The rear handbrake mechanisms and handbrake drums etc have been stripped, cleaned and rebuilt. The handbrake cable however was a nightmare.
The original was mangled and frayed so had to be changed. Two types were listed for my car but neither fitted! Managed to source a NOS one of unknown vintage eventually though which fitted perfectly! Apparently it’d been sat in this cable suppliers store room for a very long time!
 
So, all sorted and back on the road. I’m hoping now most of the damage and trouble caused by this cars long period of sitting unused is now about sorted though. Between me and my MOT man just about everything must surely have been covered by now!
One good thing is that the steering now feels much better, I think the tracking must have been a bit off before.
 
All good for another year!

That's a bit of an arrogant 'personal message from the MD.
 
Quite shocking really, but maybe typical of attitudes towards the disabled at the time.
 
I'm glad we seem to have moved on (at least a bit) from then!
 
Andy

That car is looking so good now Dan 

Near 2 weeks since the last update, you chaps deserve better*
 
So what the fuck has been happening?
 
Ups and downs but all project orientated, on the whole I am looking forwards to spring
 
drilled out holes for early flap number plate on rear lower tailgate

 
checked fit and identified a couple of holes that need tidying, body shop Steve said no problems

 
Went all medieval with wire cup and prep wheels on stuff that needs powder coating or painting 

 
And filled the workshop with a thick film of dust, thank goodness for facemasks

 
This is the unobtainium petrol filler cap from the project, the key doesnt work in it. despite much lube

 
found a way to separate the halves

 
and extract the lock which is utterly fused!, WIP

 
New plugs fitted to the engine and struggled somewhat with new repro drive belts 

 
Fitted fuel pump to the chassis and then ran mix of Kunifer and ethanol friendly* hose between tank and carbs

 
fitted return pipe to the drivers side chassis rail. Realy very easy doing it like this. Try doing it with floors in place and you will invent new profanity

 
Then I got distracted by a trip to S Waleshire and a wobbly bonnet on the daily which turned out to be quite dangerous

 
Vid for them interested

 
Then I got distracted by feedback and uncertainty from one of my vids on youtube. Question was around orientation of a spacer between cam and dissy gear. as it turned out all was perfect but still 40 mins invested*

 
Used my new frame made from old IKEA shelving to set up air filter for powder coating

 
banged nails into the wall to hang stuff what has been chassis black'd

 
more coming, rest yer sphincters
 

last couple of days fun have included the following
 
Painted passenger a-post after stripping it back to bare steel to avoid repeat of contaminationz. Then fitted the spare windscreen, triplex laminated original from 1974/1984 suspect the latter. it is in very tidy shape. PLUS the screen seal responded well 

 
finished off the tailgate seals.

 
Fitted new passenger door seal which was an utter ballsache but a very good repro part. 

 
All of this was in prep for arrival of the painted roof panel, which has been delayed by a week because ..... etc I will not humour you with excuses. Now due mid next week definitely* Still plenty of other shite to do. 

 
Fitted repro PAS hoses from a UK based specialist. I like this kind of support of specialist engineering from UK PLC

 
Then my 3 year old grinder caught fire! field windings got a bit warm and melted. stinky stuff. £25 and you might think it has lasted well. BUT my 30 year old anonymous unit is still going strong.

 
Sorting out extra gauges from the centre console. Clock has to be one, then I have some matching issues for the other 3. looking into this

 
Big delivery raised expectations after issues, ups and downs all weeks

 
Passenger rear wing shipped was 2nd hand and not new!, irritated but the supplier agreed with me on a greatly reduced cost.

 
Bouyed I got on with painting drivers side a and b post. B post was stripped back to bare steel because of reaction to paint. then despite blockers, panel wipes and much cleanliness it fucking happened again on the A post!!!!! FFS. deal with this next week. pissed off for now. Silicon spray from screen install is to blame.

 
settled my sphincter with install of slam panel and bulkhead seal.

 
on a plus side I did spend an hour shifting stuff around in the store and found everything that I thought was lost
 
Also finished install of 2nd hand top tailgate onto my daily, replaced ignition components and also sorted out the faulty seat switches.
 
I decided that I was not in the right place to deal with passenger door install today. largely as a result of a series of issues.
 
It has got me thinking about how I deal with just fucking getting on with high risk jobs. I think I have the answer. I and it is getting there.
 
thanks for reading

Episode 8 of the YooToob story on this car, same stuff as above etc
 

Ugh. Finally managed to get some time in the garage, but that just confirmed that this clutch is f*cked.

 
I feebly tried straightening that spring out, but one of the coils has been pulled tight, so it ain't coming back. Clutch written off. Now contemplating whether to upgrade to the later diaphragm type. 
 
Cheered myself up by ordering myself an engine hoist. Cheaper than I expected!. £223.97 from SGS Engineering for a 1 ton crane and a load leveller (which WILL be needed). I could have got a two-ton one, but I think I'd rather try to encourage myself away from attempting engine swaps on anything bigger! A 1 ton is still overkill in this application really.

I'm really hoping that the new owner works out a solution to this......I watch with bated breath!

The link.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCB8HF8Pqug-Pc7DFqX9lf_g
Excellent skills and a great instructional videos.

Looks superb! Really nice work Dan and well worth the effort. This car just gets better and better!
 
Andy

Have you considered digging a pit in your garage with all the car fettling jobbies you are doing?
 
Maybe in a collaboration with a Welsh mining company?
 
The digging and construction of it would also make for some interesting videos.
 
Andy

Not sure if anyone’s left on here to read this update? Everyone seems far more interested in moaning at the mo!
 
If anyone is interested however,
Since it’s a lovely spring-like day down here I’ve finally fitted the new rear lights.
 
Old ones weren’t too bad tbh, and most people would probably have just left them. Not me though!
They were a mixed make pair and both had faded a bit and had dirt/grime in the lenses. The seals weren’t great either.
 

 
Access to the estates rear lights aren’t quite as good as it is on the saloons! My big fat hands made it a bit of a struggle to get the retaining nuts and bulb holders out!
 

 
Passenger side light was easy, the old light was even the same make as the new ones. Only three nuts to undo, pull the wires off the back and the light just lifts out. Ive cleaned the paintwork under the lights too, there was quite a bit of grime under there.
 

 

 
While all this was in bits I’ve taken the time to strip all the bulb holders down, and clean them up. The contacts have all been cleaned up with a green scotch pad and on reassembly given a very light dab of silver electrically conductive grease. Should help everything to stay clean and corrosion free.
Reassembly was the reverse of removal. Only thing extra I’ve done was a bead of sealer around the light hole in the body and around the bolt holes, just to be sure it stays water proof.
 

 
One down, one to go. New light on the left old on the right.
 
The drivers side light was a little bit different. This one was much older than the other and a different make.
Main difference was twice as much wiring in the back of it. On removal the reason why became clear.
 
Spot the difference!
 

 
The old light hasn’t got the silver earth/common return bar. It looks like it did have one as the clips for it are all there but the bar is long gone.
Instead someone has cut the main earth wire back, crudely added another short length of wire to it (wrapped bare wires together and used electrical tape over the top!) then crimped a new connector on the end, with some extra loops crimped to that to individually connect each bulb holder together on their earth sides.
 
Here’s the wire in question.
 

 
There’s nothing wrong with this, apart from the shit way they joined the new and old wires together. But, on these lights it makes the earth/return connections interfere with the good connection to the contact between light body and bulb holders on the new light units. Plus, on these cars the bulb failure warning lamp on the dash works by electrical balance side - side. So if the car picks up an imbalance when a bulb pops that difference is shown as a fault and the bulb fail light comes on.
Problem being that given all this bollocks basically works on resistance the current way things are means both sides of the car are currently wired differently. One side (drivers rear) has significantly more joins and connections in its wiring than the other side... this all adds resistance to the circuit. That piss poor connection mentioned above will also add extra resistance!
Funnily enough I’ve had a lot of problems with the bulb failure light coming on with this car, often with no bulbs actually faulty! Now we know why!
 
So on this light I’ve done exactly the same, cleaning everything up and using a tiny dab of contact grease on everything and reassembled the new light unit. It was harder on this side as all of the earth contacts on every bulb holder had been bent and mangled by whoever had fitted their ‘new and improved’ earth/return system!
To fix their shit wiring I’ve just cut it off entirely, soldered on a new length of wire to replace it with a single spade connector on the end to go onto the one and only connector on the back of the new lights earth bar. Much better and much tidier.
 
Both new lights fitted. I’ll leave them as they are for now then after a few months try retightening the fixings as the new sealing rubbers were quite stiff! Hopefully they’ll settle a bit after a while.
 

 

 
They look way nicer imho.
Tested and all working now too, with no bulb failure light illuminated on the dash!