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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, PhilA said:

Checked and it's not the security module because the pump relay comes on for 2 seconds or so after switching on the ignition. 

I hear the pump make a muted thump. 

 

Ordered a new pump. 

 

Phil

Bit late now, but it's not one of those failsafe jobbies that only lets the pump run when you're cranking, or it's got oil pressure is it?

Edited by comfortablynumb
Spellcheck
Posted
7 hours ago, hairnet said:

What was the cloud of smoke?

Oil down the bores from checking compression. I left the exhaust disconnected on purpose so it didn't dump all that into the catalytic converters. 

 

Phil

Posted
5 hours ago, comfortablynumb said:

Bit late now, but it's not one of those failsafe jobbies that only lets the pump run when you're cranking, or it's got oil pressure is it?

It does have a module that'll do that but I checked the wiring diagram and it's computer to relay, relay to fuse to pump to ground. 

Relay clicks on briefly when you switch on the ignition, and that's the normal prime action before starting. 

It's being fed power, it should run but it's seized up. Par for the course with ethanol fuel that's sat for years.

  • Like 2
Posted
7 hours ago, PhilA said:

Hm. 

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Something's different.

The house, Plymouth and the lawn have all changed orientation.

Posted

The fuel gauge is stuck on 3/4 tank

Guessing the sender is jammed. Unplugging it makes the needle drop to zero.

Posted
1 hour ago, comfortablynumb said:

Is the gauge sender and pump all one unit?

No. 

The evaporative controls, pump and sender were 3 separate units. 

That for mine has been condensed down to 2, the sender unit and evaporative controls are part of the top bung, while the pump is bolted in way down inside the tank.

Phil

  • Sad 1
Posted

That is genuinely a very pleasant place to sit and drive.

Just finished up redoing the broken pcv pipework, that's made the idle happy. Took it for a quick drive to the end of the street and back. Can't hear the engine, can't feel it shift gears, just very squishy and comfortable. 

Phil

Posted

eBay getting my money tonight. 

Just ordered a couple new handbrake cables. 

Phil

  • Like 1
Posted

I had an X308 some ten years ago. It’s the smoothest car I’ve ever driven. 
 

They’re lovely, apart from rust. 

Posted
On 29/08/2024 at 02:31, PhilA said:

Not even a check engine light.

Must be a Chinese knock-off and not a real Jag...

  • Haha 2
Posted
6 hours ago, Rightnider said:

I had an X308 some ten years ago. It’s the smoothest car I’ve ever driven. 
 

They’re lovely, apart from rust. 

Goes to show. It rains here similarly to there, but we don't put salt on our roads. 

Under this car still looks factory fresh. I've got a tiny bit of bubbling on the front subframe and that's it.

  • Like 1
Posted

"fucking electric cars, they make no noise and pedestrians can't hear them coming" 😁

Posted

The climate control panel was annoying me. 

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Another two bulbs burned out and the LCD wasn't working. 

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The bulbs are fairly straightforward; simple replacements in most cases. 

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I did pull the board apart and reflowed the drivers and screen connection but no improvement. I caved and bought a replacement, particularly as the plastic on this has all broken. 

 

Phil

Posted

Replaced all the aircon o-rings in the engine bay apart from the ones on the compressor I didn't have time to do. 

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The handbrake cables arrived today also so that's good, I'll get them in soon. Need to put a clamp on the pcv valve too.

 

Phil

Posted

Found my Jubilee clips.

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One less vacuum leak.

Also means I can now refit the plastic casings that go over all that at the back and make pretty.

Posted

I've just done a big catch up on this but only a few months worth and it has gone from a driveway ornament to a functioning car in less than 10 minutes (for me)

Outstanding work as usual.

Posted

I think I'm doing okay so far. I've not seen one of these for sale/sold in running, driving condition, even with bad clear coat paint for less than $4500. I've got about $2500 invested in it with probably another $300 due in tires and whatever it'll cost to regas the aircon. 

Real nice ones with low miles, pretty paint etc routinely still sell for $8k on up. 

I watched the Grand Tour episode with the Jags, both of them had faults (Clarkson's XJR had ABS/ASC/TCS faults, that's a cracked solder joint on the ABS control module), coupled with trashed seats, and May's XK8 had a fault light and went into reduced power. Given that the electronics are primarily Ford on both of those, the quoted sales price for them was fairly high. Most for sale seem to have some sort of fault/failure and buying one with a check engine light on is not uncommon. 

Not far off putting it on the road and giving it a shakedown, though. 

 

Phil

 

Edit: Not putting the finishing panels on yet, those have to be removed to do the aircon. They can stay off until then.

  • Like 10
Posted

Did a few things on the car.

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Cleaned the driver's seatbelt, and left it in the sun to dry. The sponge came way brown. It winds up a little better now.

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It then decided it was gonna rain. So I packed that away. After that first torrential shower, I pulled the passenger door card off to set about changing the bulb in the window switch.

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Discovered that the speakers have been upgraded.

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Did fix the switch. Got the two in the back to do also.

Driver's door card off next and between the rain which was coming in heavy waves all afternoon, extracted the key lock mechanism.

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The little stud that attached that to the latch mechanism was broken.

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I decided to improvise. Drilled a hole in the end, fitted an assortment of washers and screws and lugs and got it attached. The key locks the door manually and also activates the switch for the central locking; unlock doesn't work manually, it feels like something has broken inside. It does operate the switch to unlock so if the battery is good the doors will unlock. Hurdle for another day. 

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Does look nice all lit up at night now. I need to see if the noise on the radio is RF pick-up or a ground loop. With the key on AUX it plays nicely, no noise. Switch anything on in the car that wakes up the car's electronics and SZZZZZWWWWEEEEEEE over the speakers. Might try bringing the ground for it to the ground point of the amp as a first troubleshooting step. I also need to see if it is the steering wheel button translator module causing it.

 

Phil

Posted

Nope, for some reason the RCA connectors on the line wires went bad. 

Ordered some new connectors.

  • Like 1
Posted

In the interim I jiggled the wires about and got it working properly.

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Lighting also allows you to kinda-sorta color match the lights to the dashboard. 

Sounds good. Phone functions work, Bluetooth music, and it controls off the steering wheel also which is neat.

Quite happy to have a decent stereo in the car.

Phil

Posted

Fixed the handbrake. Pulls on at 4 clicks, as per the manual.

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New cable. Cleaned up the brake carrier but nothing was seized up which is nice. Brake moved freely. 

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While I was underneath, I changed the fuel filter for a new Wix.

 

Phil

Posted

New wiper blade. Had to adjust the arm slightly, it had twisted with age. 

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That clears the screen well now. Screen wash pipe got fixed also, it was kinked.

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Added fresh screen wash after emptying the old out. 

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That's about as good as it gets. Works for me. 

Phil

Posted

New climate control panel arrived. Connected it up to test. 

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Screen works properly, which was the aim of changing it. 

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Fitted it all in, looks tidier too because the buttons aren't all worn out. 

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Swapped the ends on the RCA cables, which got the radio working properly again. 

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Just checked and all the illumination works properly, too. 

Happy with that 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Spent money. 

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New shock top mounts. 

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Fixed the dent in the rear quarter. 

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Repaired the cup holder. 

Have a new receiver-dryer, which I need to fit, and 4 new tires are on order. 

Phil

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