project SiC's consolidated moderns - 2004 BMW Z4 2.2, 2005 BMW 330i and (borrowed) 2007 Porsche Cayman

[purplebargeken]

The Loopoo handbrake lever almost comes to ear level so I think we are almost even there lol

[SiC]

Bashed this on last night. 

Used the old backplates as templates to figure the least amount of metal cut that was needed.

Painted the exposed edges and left to dry.

This is why I shouldn't be let near paint. 🤦‍♂️

Thankfully came off easily enough with electrical contact cleaner (IPA).

Threw it all back on 

Had this washer left over. No idea what it's for or where it goes? Parts diagrams for rear brakes don't seem to show where it goes.

One advantage of cutting the backplates is that the adjuster is easily accessible with the caliper mount off. It's up by the disc. With the caliper carrier and caliper in place, this is all pretty much covered up anyway. 

Adjusted the adjusters per book. Handbrake spring in its service position (fully slack handbrake cables), fully tightened the adjuster and then back off 8 ticks. 3 clicks on the handbrake give a solid hold. However the nearside shoes drag a fair bit more than the offside when released. 

Hopefully it just needs a few miles and actuations to set everything back into position in it. Failing that, they'll wear down anyway in use. Probably need a quick adjustment after a few hundred (200?) miles anyway. 🙃

Wheels are still off and backend in the air, so I may have another quick go at adjusting it. I did put the wheel studs back on to push the disc down fully but I'll probably with the wheels back on to make sure it's all perfect. 

Anyway at least it all seems to work now.

Hopefully the weather will play ball this weekend and I can get some more use into it! Right now it's raining again...

[cort16]

This seems to be throwing the entire back catalogue of BMW issues at you..  If you've got a wheel wobble at 56mph I'm calling Bingo.

[RoverFolkUs]

@SiC I had a look and unfortunately the Z4 2.2 is not in the database on the scanner/scope that I use! Only the 2.0, for which it still doesn't list the mass air flow sensor anyway 

So much for £10k Snap-on diagnostic tools!! 😅

[SiC]

11 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

@SiC I had a look and unfortunately the Z4 2.2 is not in the database on the scanner/scope that I use! Only the 2.0, for which it still doesn't list the mass air flow sensor anyway 

So much for £10k Snap-on diagnostic tools!! 😅

Nothing for a 2.5 or 3.0 either? I believe identical engines. The MAF is also listed as the same as the E46 323/325/330. Thanks for checking though.

[RoverFolkUs]

4 minutes ago, SiC said:

Nothing for a 2.5 or 3.0 either? I believe identical engines. The MAF is also listed as the same as the E46 323/325/330. Thanks for checking though.

Weirdly enough no, just the 2.0 which is very unusual because it's usually very good at listing all engine variants 

I'll have a look at the E46 models

[Cookiesouwest]

@SiC

Have you changed your number or just ignoring me

Laptop is ready. Can drop sometime at weekend or one evening next week.

 

[SiC]

4 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

@SiC

Have you changed your number or just ignoring me

Laptop is ready. Can drop sometime at weekend or one evening next week.

 

I'm not ignoring you ... But kinda am. I'm just monumentally crap at keeping on top of things and I keep forgetting to message back! Don't take offence, there are like 6 other messages from mates and others who I need to reply to. 😬🙉🙈

Answer is yes please! But not sure when. 

If you're not confident in repining the Mercs wing mirror cover for the puddle light, did you want to wait till that arrives and I do it?

[Christine]

Don't let Sic near your car if it has scabs...

[Cookiesouwest]

4 hours ago, SiC said:

I'm not ignoring you ... But kinda am. I'm just monumentally crap at keeping on top of things and I keep forgetting to message back! Don't take offence, there are like 6 other messages from mates and others who I need to reply to. 😬🙉🙈

Answer is yes please! But not sure when. 

If you're not confident in repining the Mercs wing mirror cover for the puddle light, did you want to wait till that arrives and I do it?

No offence taken.

I think I will be ok with having a bash at the wing mirror.

Will work out when I can get over to drop the laptop.

[SiC]

Went for an evening drive.

Good fun. 

Brakes were hot but not baking. Handbrake shoe bit was toasty. Probably needs a bit more adjustment and/or bedding in. 

Rear disc

Rear handbrake drum section. This bit is noticeably hot but does heatsink out to the rest of the wheel just fine. Localised hot spot basically.

Front disc for comparison 

I haven't really looked too deeply at the vacuum intake leak. Long term fuel trims are quite high. Iirc this is extra fuel put in?

Resetting the adaptation didn't do too much. Apart from making the short term trims as high as the long terms was. Surprising that 🤣

 

Hopefully won't give any issues for the MOT. I don't intend to do much on it until I've got it through. That's only in a weeks time. 

Thing is, despite the trims being high, it actually drives just fine? Even when the Engine light was on, it still drove just fine. Tempted to just ignore it and accept it as is. Might get a smoke machine to help find the leak. 

 

Every time I drive this, it makes me want a Z4 coupé. Unfortunately the BGT selling has been pretty quiet and not even had anyone turn up to view it yet. Some people have asked for times but not got any further than that. Cold and wet weather is probably not helping.

[beko1987]

Yes I'd stop poking at it whilst it'll hopefully snag a pass like that. 

I remember fettling the calipers on my blue laguna out of kind-ness and cleaned them up, had the pads out, excersised the piston etc... Next trip to work one of the back ones locked up solid, pouring smoke out of the back at 35mph after 1 mile. Had to pull over outside some offices, luckily I carry my breaker bar with me so smacked the caliper until it popped with that and it never did it again. Scary at the time 😂

Then the rear handbrake mechanism seized up where the mechanism only moved it all a specific certain distance so the rust and grit crept up over the course of that year causing an mot fail, that was fun! 

[riek]

with the same engine in an E46, oftentimes one or both of the rubber hoses between airbox and throttle body are torn 

[SiC]

1 minute ago, riek said:

with the same engine in an E46, oftentimes one or both of the rubber hoses between airbox and throttle body are torn 

That's the issue on @wuvvum Z4

Mine seems absolutely fine though:

 

 

[SiC]

I've been dailying this into Bristol centre this week for work as the weather has been so fantastic. 

It was less fantastic over the weekend though so it's absolutely filthy. In fact everyone of my cars need a wash. 

100 miles since I last repaired it. 

Of course the needy bastard requires attention again. Firstly the heater fan has just started being intermittent again. Tbh that doesn't count as I'd knew it would after only cleaning the fan resistor contacts up. I'm going to chop and solder them on so it's hopefully fixed for good (at least for the life left on this vehicle).

No error codes but I have noticed the odd jolt and not so smooth acceleration. I put this down to the Crankcase Ventilation system needing some love. Anyway I plugged in my cheapy Scantool that lives permanently in the glove box of this car. Gave this:

Great. Another thing that needs fixing. A quick Google says the inlet manifold needs to come off for access. As I intend to do the CCV next and that needs it off, I'll chuck a new sensor on while I'm at it. 

Not sure what brand as genuine BMW is £130 odd. Might go for Meyle as that's a more reasonable £30 odd and I've had good experience with them before. Not going to do Lucas/Lemark or any shite like that. 

Hopefully it is the sensor and not something more sinister going on inside the engine.

[SiC]

While it's not an MOT failure to have the interior fan broken, I want to use the car this weekend and a broken fan isn't great if you want the roof down. It currently works from the last connector clean up but it's starting to play up occasionally by either cutting out or only running on full. I'd rather it not die completely or melt the connector even more.

I know the resistor pack is good, just that the connector is bad. The best solution would be to replace the resistor pack and connector. However both are NLA from the BMW dealer and no aftermarket exist. Tbh I find that bizarre but that's just the case. 

Anyway as this is a 177k mile car that is shabby, I'm realistic that this may only have a few more years and one unsympathetic owner away from the scrapyard. 

So I'm going to solder it directly to the resistor pack. Which means if someone wants to replace it in the future, they'd need to splice in a connector. I'm fine with that as it'd need to be done either way. 

Also these resistor packs apparently rarely give trouble. The one on this is relatively new but I suspect that's because the bad connector originally damaged the first and the connector not replaced. It's failure likely not helped by the filthy blocked pollen filter.

Anyhow glove box for access.

Unscrew and pull the module out. I removed the housing and chopped the material around the connector to give access for soldering. Also tinned the contacts while out.

Then simply a case of chopping each wire, soldering on and then heatshrinking.

Then refitting the module. Fun fact, if you short the metal housing onto that metal support piece that is earth, even with the ignition off the fan kicks in and the resistor pack tries welding itself to the support piece. Thankfully no damage done but I probably should have disconnected the battery.

Refitting is a bit awkward. There is a tab you need to get in on one end then a screw on the other. While not dropping said screw and needing ten minutes to try retrieving it. 

Fan works great now. Hopefully it's fixed for good and the rest of the life of the car.

For reference, here is the damage to said connector.

Not pretty.

 

Next job was to read error codes.

More stored than expected.

My suspicion those ABS/ESP/EPS codes were caused by me the other day when I stalled it. I started the car with the clutch down and with it still left in gear, I got out the car. Thankfully the handbrake works well now and it stalled. Good test of the handbrake!

Anyway I noticed the dash light up the ABS, ESP and EPS after a few seconds. Going by those codes, I'm wondering if I just upset the fragile thing by it being in gear, clutch up but not moving (because stalled). They certainly haven't lit up when I've been driving and the code suggests it would have done.

 

According to the internet, the manifold needs removing to gain access to the crank sensor. That's bollocks. At least on the Z4.

Remove the connector, single hex bolt and wriggle it out.

Wasn't dirty as I wondered if it would be. Sometimes these sensors can get metal on them which confuses the ECU. 

Genuine sensor and likely original to the car. 

What I did notice is that the connector on the sensor had oil in it. This suggests that perhaps the engine oil has got into the sensor and wicked it's way into the connector side. 

I cleaned all that oil out and while I was there I scraped off dirt from the pins of the connector with a screwdriver. Hopefully this will improve electrical contact.

So we will see if that code comes back or I get any issues that might point to that sensor. I don't know how true it is but some on the internet say these engines can use just the cam sensors if the crank sensor fails. This is unlike many other cars where a crank sensor failure leaves the engine dead.

I'm still considering changing it but I want a decent sensor if I am. Right now I'm not sure I trust anything except genuine (or Siemens/VDO). Just I finding it hard to stomach £130 for said sensor... I'm sure that view will change if it leaves me stranded 😬

[SiC]

One of my mates reckons I hate money. 

That's not true. I just seem to have a perverse satisfaction of setting fire to it with cars.

Anyway I have another car arriving tomorrow. Seller is very kindly delivering it for me.

And yes it has plenty of broken bits to be fixed.

 

Given the amount of car changes I keep having right now with moderns, I'm loosing track of where threads are. So I'm going to make this into my consolidated moderns thread. 

[SiC]

"I think your car has just arrived outside"

*I wipe my bleary eyes and look at the time*

Shit it's 9:30am and I just have forgot to set my alarm clock. 

*Gets out of bed, grabs the nearest clothes and goes outside*

Thanks to @NorfolkNWeigh for delivering!

I'm back to three cars needing a wash again. 😅

Also does owning two 6cyl Bangle BMWs turn me into a wanker now?

Man maths says this should be a handy spares car for the Z4 vice versa.

Just going out to drop the top and enjoy the sun. More later...

[SiC]

So error codes. There are loads of them because it's a BMW.

Firstly these codes I think all relate to the idrive (big dash sat nav screen thing) module is dead and not communicating. I don't think it's the display as I get a flash as if it's about to start up and then nothing. My suspicion is the power supply in that module is dicky. Electrolytic capacitors maybe given the age??

These two are the cruise control module (Longitudinal Dynamics Management - what a name) and Airbag. They all relate to the fact the ABS module isn't giving the car network a vehicle speed information. The transmission has a similar code as these.

 

So what does the ABS module have to say about this?

Oof. That's a lot of codes. Basically it thinks that front left, rear left and rear right sensors are all dead. 

Now this is where you need to be careful with this sort of thing.

Looking at live data, a different picture emerges.

Yes that's correct, it thinks the front right wheel is travelling at 300kmh. In reverse!

If you went with just the codes, you'd have changed those three wheel speed sensors and have the same issue. But actually the issue is the front right wheel speed sensor is giving junk values.

I need to inspect the sensor and wiring. However a new Bosch sensor from Parts in Motion on eBay is just £25. So any doubt I'll just chuck a new one on. (Also hoping it's not the reluctor ring).

 

Clearing the code got rid of all the warning lights. Including the airbag light. So actually nothing wrong with the airbag system. That is just upset it isn't hearing any vehicle speed information from the ABS (which is in a fault state).

A few minutes later the warnings all pinged back up again as the ABS system went back into a faulted state due to that wheel speed reading.

[Essex V6]

On 21/04/2024 at 23:43, SiC said:

Mix of Atwell Wilson photos. No particular order except roughly the order they uploaded in. Maybe some repeats as I walked around and took them again.

Good mix of cars outside. As I was leaving the classic USA contingent was arriving. Presumably late from all their fill up stops on the way.

While the Z4 is not a car I'd usually put on show for somewhere like this, it was the only one and adds to the mix of cars. Better than arriving in my wife's Honda Civic Estate.

 

Liking the white Guv’nor

[JakeT]

If there’s anything you need to know about these, feel free to ask. I’ve owned my 55 plate touring since 2019, and put 74,000 miles on it. It’s on 212k now. Mine is a manual, and the long term average is sitting around 32-33MPG. I think the engines in these is far better than the older M54, better throttle response and has a better character. Revs to 7k too. Lack of dipstick is annoying, but you’ll get used to it.

  iDrive unit can be sent to Romania et al to be fixed cheaply, and they’re good at doing them.

[SiC]

18 minutes ago, JakeT said:

If there’s anything you need to know about these, feel free to ask. I’ve owned my 55 plate touring since 2019, and put 74,000 miles on it. It’s on 212k now. Mine is a manual, and the long term average is sitting around 32-33MPG. I think the engines in these is far better than the older M54, better throttle response and has a better character. Revs to 7k too. Lack of dipstick is annoying, but you’ll get used to it.

  iDrive unit can be sent to Romania et al to be fixed cheaply, and they’re good at doing them.

Yeah I've followed your thread for a while! E9x 330i has been on my hit list for a while. For my kind of use auto I'd prefer, even if higher liability.

A few questions: (!)

 - Does the CCC have Bluetooth? If not, if I upgrade to a CIC does that have Bluetooth?

 - Do you have the E9x SP Daten files?

 - I heard about the chap in Romania. Do you a link or contact details for them?

This CCC is definitely dead...

That's all it does every 5 minutes or so.

[JakeT]

Ah nice, the auto is good In fairness. We had a look at a 130i auto for my mrs and she liked it, we just couldn’t agree on a price (and no history at all). The economy does take a hit, but I really like how the ZF 6spd behaves.

For 1. It may have Bluetooth, it was an option outside of Nav. If it has it, on a CCC it will be calls only, and it’s quite basic. You can retrofit a CIC unit and it’s a big upgrade (in my eyes). From that, you can add something called a combox. That gives you A2DP for bluetooth audio, a proper USB port, and a higher resolution screen. My car has these and it feels modern as they used that system up until 2015/16 in some cars, you can also enable BMW apps, but only a few work still. Spotify does, and it’s very handy. I’ll add a picture below. (Excuse the music taste)

2. I’ll take a look, I am a big INPA user and haven’t got a fully working version of ISTA yet, but we’ll see how it goes. I’ll dig my car laptop out tomorrow and take a look.

3. https://mca.electricmura.ro/en/ Are the ones to use, and they’re reasonably priced. I’ve seen people send off dead units with symptoms like yours and them come back just fine.

 

As a final note, lots of people tell you to replace everything on an old BMW, but you must take a look at the belt tensioner if you can’t see that it’s been replaced. They’re a poor design (shock) and bend inwards as they fail. This means the belt falls off and due to to the design of the front pulley it sucks bits of belt through the front main seal. Those belt bits then block the oil pickup, and hey ho it’s dead engine time. 
 

The above shows a tensioner starting to fail, on a friends 630i. The belt is hanging over the edge of the pulley. That’s the only thing I’d really stress be replaced if you don’t have paperwork to show it’s been done as you have the double whammy of being left walking, and the engine attempting to do an EcoBoost.

[SiC]

Had a poke around on this wheel speed sensor. Disconnected it as I wanted to double check that the abs module isn't playing silly buggers. 

The connector box was absolutely packed with dirt. I don't think it's ever been disconnected.

Wheel speed reading went to 0kmh. Reconnecting it also still kept it at 0kmh. 

Am I confident this has fixed it? Not really. NorfolkNWeigh mentioned it stayed off for 50miles the other day until it pinged on. Tbh for £25 to get a genuine Bosch sensor, I might just parts dart one on anyway.

 

Next was to wash it. Slightly delayed as my neighbour (whom loves BMWs) came over for a chat. It's been sat under a tree so covered in bird shite and tree detritus. I hoovered out the scuttle area too.

 

Great thing about modern paint is how well it scrubs up.

 

I really need to put the number plates back on. Looks dodgy as hell without them. 

Even though they are a similar age, it's quite striking the design differences between the Z4 and the 3 series. You can see some of the language in there but they are very different. Especially against modern designs where every one looks the same from the front.

[Dick Cheeseburger]

For a bloke who doesn't rate German motors, you're doing pretty well with your collection!

[SiC]

1 hour ago, JakeT said:

For 1. It may have Bluetooth, it was an option outside of Nav. If it has it, on a CCC it will be calls only, and it’s quite basic.

I have this MULF2 box in the boot. Dated 2012 and has the Bluetooth symbol on it. Presumably retrofitted going by the date.

Is this Bluetooth handfree? Tbh this is what I want the most.

It also has an old fashioned car handset dock in the arm rest too. I was disappointed when I saw that as I presumed no Bluetooth. But presumably the MULF2 replaced the dock.

Also presumably under the module is where woodlice go to die.

[JakeT]

Oh yes, in that case you’re set. The cradle will still work though, and you can get what are called snap in adaptors for various phones. They will connect to the MULF too, and even have a passive aerial that boosts phone signal.

 

I am guessing the original TCU In your car died and someone retrofitted a MULF2. That can add USB too.  Ute you’re right, will work for calls just fine. 

[SiC]

MOT day 🤞🤞🤞🤞

Emissions are my biggest concern. Handbrake might need further adjustment but I think it'll pass.

 

[SiC]

That was quick! 🎉🥳

Nearly 5k miles in a year since last MOT. Not bad effort from all the recent previous owners on here.

[SiC]

So far I've bought:

 - Rear left caliper

 - Rear pads

 - Both handbrake shoe backplates

 - Replacement Airbag ECU

 - Air conditioning panel (which I didn't end up needing as I miss diagnosed)

That works out as £192.62 (£20 of which is that air con panel). Not bad for a 20yr old BMW. Basically mostly rear brakes which are always apparently a sore point on older BMWs anyway. So if not now, it wouldn't be long before it was needed anyway given the age.

Purchase price, parts and 12 months fresh MOT basically brings me to £1450. Still a really cheap little 6 cyl convertible.

It might be a bit of a 6footer to 10footer but its good fun to drive and I love the lack of worry that such a cheap, slightly shabby car brings. 

Honestly, how long is left that you can pick up a relatively lightweight, small straight-6 convertible that makes a great sound for that sort of money? I don't think it will be much longer left we can bask in this sort of shite.

I might not own it forever (tempted to spend out more for a 3.0 and I'm fickle with cars anyway) but right now I'm loving blatting around the old crock.