Ronkey Posted September 21 Author Posted September 21 2 minutes ago, bangernomics said: Heat from the opposite side to the bow, then a wet none flammable cloth on the outside if its bowing out. You risk causing wobbles if you do too much at once but small areas at a time will pull in. Done it old dents in panels using a map torch many times with a wet chamois or the like. The repairs look really good and repair panels have been getting steadily worse for years so what you have achieved is really impressive. @bangernomics Ta for that - I'll give it a shot.
Ronkey Posted September 22 Author Posted September 22 Getting there now - need to do the weld at the top of the door skin. Alignment is pretty good. Westbay, chodweaver, High Jetter and 6 others 9
comfortablynumb Posted September 22 Posted September 22 I thought 'he's not going to get very good welds with that welding earth clamp on a painted bit of the window frame....oh hang on...' 🤦 Ronkey 1
Scruffy Bodger Posted September 23 Posted September 23 Some years back I did a Justy which I'm guessing is made of thinner metal than you are dealing with? When doing larger sections I set the panel back just a touch so it could be ground flush and just a skim of filler applied. I just went steady at it, no extra cooling, wet rags, airline etc. I just bounced back and forth a spot at a time so heat couldn't build up in one place, literally just joining the dots. I've done both sills full length on a Transit Connect too, minimal warpage on any of them, if any. As for the welding blind, if that's the way he's learnt carry on. On bigger stuff you'd be getting proper sunburn in no short order tho, spotting tin together not so much. Ronkey, comfortablynumb and St.Jude 1 2
Ronkey Posted September 23 Author Posted September 23 @Scruffy Bodger man that was bad. Great save. The Amazon is much thicker metal so at least I have a fighting chance. 0.6mm wire all the way? Amen to that. Need to practice taking it steady. I've never been good at that 😜
Scruffy Bodger Posted September 23 Posted September 23 1 hour ago, Ronkey said: @Scruffy Bodger man that was bad. Great save. The Amazon is much thicker metal so at least I have a fighting chance. 0.6mm wire all the way? Amen to that. Need to practice taking it steady. I've never been good at that 😜 Tbf 0.8mm does the job. if it's too hot turn the gas up a touch and weld from further away, it loses amps. Spot, spot, spot on clean metal helps. Not the covered in whatever I couldn't get to. Buy a finger sander if funds stretch to it. I couldn't get to half of it with a grinder and was totally on my arse at the time. A steep learning curve... Not a 10mm. I saw an Amazon on the Woodpecker rally some years back, they were flat fuck out, great to see! Ronkey 1
Scruffy Bodger Posted September 23 Posted September 23 2 hours ago, Ronkey said: Need to practice taking it steady. I've never been good at that 😜 Pump, pump squirt? No good to anyone lol. Ronkey and bangernomics 1 1
Ronkey Posted October 20 Author Posted October 20 Front doors done and one of the rears which only needed minor repairs. The driver's door decided to 'oil can' which took some solving. I would heat it up and it would pop back then on cooling no change. Try the damp rag method but no dice unfortunately. The solution was to grind the welds back and hammer them to stretch the weld line a bit. Now looking good. For anyone thinking of having a go at this cold look at Fitzee's videos on 'Crusty' the Toyota. I wish I'd looked at the two vids where he repairs doors before I started. The front wings are in decent shape and getting good second hand wings is near impossible so I treated them to sandblasting on the inside so I could properly protect them later on. The rail where they fit to the inner wings was pretty knackered so patching commenced. A good time to re-assemble the front to have a look. Bearing in mind it was a bit flipping all-over when I bought it, The panel gaps are right and it looks mint. I'm delighted. Now to the final rear door. No rust to speak of but is that filler? Argghhh. Turns out to have had a proper bang in the past. All filler now removed and back to bare metal. Tricky to get a photo of it, but the hinge side of the door is a bit crumpled too. Might end up having to re-skin this but I'll have a go at patching it first. Somebody just shifted the finish line again. Once this door is done the boot lid is last. Needs work to the lips on the top edge and front corners. Before I start any know of a good boot lid anywhere? mk2_craig, jim89, Matty and 13 others 16
Datsuncog Posted October 21 Posted October 21 On 20/10/2024 at 17:36, Ronkey said: Before I start any know of a good boot lid anywhere? Hmm, depends how desperate you are... ^^ I think this one's pretty far gone. ^^ This one doesn't look too bad around the edges, but retrieving the bootlid would first involve moving a thoroughly collapsed Mk3 Zodiac hearse with half an Anglia 105E balanced on the roof out of the way... Possibly more of a challenge than just doing the welding? Old-school scrapyards: a blessing and a curse. Dick Cheeseburger 1
Ronkey Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 @Datsuncog - Christ on a bike! The stainless steel stands out on that first one for sure. Where are they?
Datsuncog Posted October 22 Posted October 22 Unfortunately, they're both in Northern Ireland - at the Junkyard Jewels yard outside Stewartstown, Co. Tyrone. Possibly not that helpful, sorry! Ronkey 1
Datsuncog Posted October 22 Posted October 22 11 hours ago, 666jjp said: a thoroughly collapsed Mk3 Zodiac hearse any pics? Not wanting to derail the Volvo thread, but have a squizz here and scroll on down... Turns out the car behind the Amazon with a demi-Anglia on the roof is actually a Zephyr Mk3 saloon; the Zodiac hearse is dumped alongside it. My memory, hey? 666jjp and Ronkey 2
Ronkey Posted November 10 Author Posted November 10 Oh heck - here we go. You are flippin kidding. The final door too!! That is one hell of a lot of filler. Plus once I removed it the door was oil-drumming just below the trim strip level. What a mess. A real shame because the door has very little rust. Choices? 1. Repair. 2. Replace. 3. New skin. Well option one costs the least so let's try that. Time to cut out and patch where that lower scar is. Took my time and hammered every weld to try and minimise shrinkage. Seemed to work ok If you look at the second photo carefully at the front of the door under the trim strip holes there are ripples in the metal. These would have been hard to hammer out due to the stiffener plate behind so they didn't bother. Repair panel made and welded in - this was pretty easy tbh. Final patch installed but I was having some issues still with oil canning, unsurprisingly, along the line of the weld below the holes. I halved some inch box section and welded it to the back. That sorted that. I'll put another higher up too. Filler still needed but nothing like when I started. That'll do! auntiemaryscanary, jim89, Sham and 17 others 20
danthecapriman Posted November 10 Posted November 10 Very impressive work going on here!👍 It'll be a stunning car in the end. Westbay, Matty and Wibble 3
Ronkey Posted November 11 Author Posted November 11 19 hours ago, danthecapriman said: Very impressive work going on here!👍 It'll be a stunning car in the end. @danthecapriman Very kind and I very much hope so! It is a good job no-one told me how much work would be involved beforehand 🙃 tooSavvy, danthecapriman and Wibble 2 1
Ronkey Posted November 13 Author Posted November 13 The front doors still dipped in along the line if the weld. I had some box section from an old school table which I put a slight curve into and added to the skin just below the weld. I welded this to the side frames and plug welded through the panel. This is the trick to get the panels true. Why didn't I think of this sooner??? Would have been much easier to do earlier @juular please note! danthecapriman, Homersimpson, scdan4 and 2 others 5
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