Peugeot 309 rescue thread. Moving on.

[Erebus]

Think the centre caps would be like these:

[DoctorRetro]

6 minutes ago, Erebus said:

Think the centre caps would be like these:

Ah, I wasn't sure from the pics whether it was all one piece, thanks for that info.

[rickvw72]

Cracking work, well done.

The wheels bought back memories of a 18 year old me, painting the rims on my 1989 309 Style. It was a great car.

[Erebus]

Excellent work btw. Really enjoyed reading this thread and a shame you've got to move it on

[Yoss]

5 hours ago, DoctorRetro said:

Yep, definitely on the to-do list. Also, lesson learned. Be careful where you put your hands when pushing a 309... 😳 Oops.

 

And to think they made Škoda jokes at the time! Great work and great colour. I'd love park my Favorit next to this. Very similar colour and big plastic bumpers. No colour coding here. Excellent. 

[Fumbler]

1 hour ago, DoctorRetro said:

Figured out the non starting is due to blocked jets, or at least I think so.

Even with gravity pushing fuel, or a temporary in line pump, there's nothing squirting into the carb. When I loosen the centre jet a bit , and pull the throttle, fuel comes out of the base of it.

I haven't got the patience to strip and rebuild the carb at the moment, so I'll shelve that for now. 

Chances are if you take out the jets and emulsion tube, you'll be able to blow carb cleaner through quite a bit of the internal galleries. Pay special attention to where the idle jet connects, as if that's blocked, starting and idling will be incredible hard.

[dozeydustman]

As a bit of a rough & ready solution to unblocking the jets, take them out and soak them in fresh petrol or some acetone (poundland nail polish remover will do). It won’t clean them perfectly but may be enough to remove most of the gunged up petrol. Fine wire to poke out any blockages may be needed. I *think* these are a Solex 34BISA carb

Very impressed with the progress on this car! Cap doffed

[DoctorRetro]

Urgh. Ran out of wire and changed the reel to the new one I had. 

I now can't seem to get the settings right. Any thoughts?

Oh, and I've also ran out of gas 🙄 I guess it could be related, if the gas was running low.

 

[Ben_O]

That black knurled knob on the wire feed is adjustable and if its too tight or too loose, it will drastically affect the wire speed and stability of the feed.

If you haven't touched the switches since swapping the reel, then it's likely that.

 

Of course, no gas will cause a very porous weld so that needs sorting too before you get going again.

I must say, I'm very impressed with the repair. 

Cheers

Ben

[SiC]

Cleaning the rollers sometimes can help too. Crud builds up and causes them to slip. 

[juular]

2 hours ago, DoctorRetro said:

Urgh. Ran out of wire and changed the reel to the new one I had. 

I now can't seem to get the settings right. Any thoughts?

Oh, and I've also ran out of gas 🙄 I guess it could be related, if the gas was running low.

 

First thing to check is the wire is definitely steel, the same diameter as before and that you aren't accidentally using flux cored wire or something.

Also make sure the wire is going through the right groove in the roller for its size.  Easy enough to check the feed by just pulling the trigger and seeing if it's nice and smooth. If it's slipping you might want to tighten the tension down a bit.

A lack of gas is definitely going to result in horrible welds. In fact if you have porous welds from no gas / wind blowing the gas away, it's best to grind them away and lay better ones as they will rust like mad.

[DoctorRetro]

1 hour ago, juular said:

First thing to check is the wire is definitely steel

Would the fact it is copper coloured be an indication?

[juular]

22 minutes ago, DoctorRetro said:

Would the fact it is copper coloured be an indication?

That's normal, it's only coated in copper.

[Dave_Q]

If the settings seem to be wrong it's most likely a different wire thickness.

[DoctorRetro]

1 hour ago, Dave_Q said:

If the settings seem to be wrong it's most likely a different wire thickness.

Old one was 0.9mm, this is 0.8mm

But I have an awful feeling it's actually flux cored, will check tomorrow.

[GingerNuttz]

Flux core is usually a grey coloured wire. 

[DoctorRetro]

40 minutes ago, GingerNuttz said:

Flux core is usually a grey coloured wire. 

Its grey inside, well the little ball of goo that keeps clogging up the tip is anyway. 

[rickvw72]

Looks like standard wire, Gasless all been grey coloured when I’ve used it. 

[SiC]

What does the label say?

[SiC]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I thought 0.9mm wire was flux cored?

[rickvw72]

Make sure you have a 0.8mm tip if you’ve gone from 0.9.

Ive used loads of 0.8 gasless in the past, never had 0.9.

When I bought my three phase murex, I had a go and it welded shite. Then I realised it had a 0.8 tip, and 0.6 wire. It makes a massive difference.

[DoctorRetro]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

What does the label say?

I said I'll check tomorrow ffs! 🤣

[DoctorRetro]

Ok, now I'm confused.

Here's the original reel that came with the welder.

Here's the box off the new reel.

 

[Dobloseven]

I'm confused as well. I've always used   .6 wire for thin stuff like car bodies.I've got.8 wire and tips but keep it for thick stuff. If you're putting. 8 wire down a.9 tip, then that's not good. Whatever you were doing before seemed ok though. 

[juular]

Seems like you may have been welding using gas on gasless wire. Turned out well in that case. Good job!

Get some 0.8mm tips (they're cheap) and reap the benefits of welding with gas, it's way nicer.

If you can return that and get 0.6 wire and tips, even better.

[DoctorRetro]

21 minutes ago, juular said:

get 0.6 wire and tips

Stupid question, but how does the tip come off? 

[Dobloseven]

17 minutes ago, DoctorRetro said:

Stupid question, but how does the tip come off? 

They unscrew. There seem to be at least two types of tip. The smaller "hobby" size and the larger "professional" type. Both seem to be readily available from the likes of Machine Mart etc.Halfords used to sell them as well. Didn't realise. .9 ones were available though. 

[GingerNuttz]

Using no gas wire and gas is just like running dual shield so it'll be absolutely fine albeit a waste of gas. 

0.8 wire is what I use for everything from 0.8mm to 8mm steel and it's been absolutely fine. 

[rickvw72]

0.6 mm wire requires more current to melt, as it’s less conductive. Smaller MiGs can struggle with it as they can’t provide enough amps.

Id go 0.8 on everything. I can use both but I’ve been neater with 0.8. I’ve been welding cars for 24years so and 0.8, with proper gas is the way to go.

[somewhatfoolish]

33 minutes ago, rickvw72 said:

0.6 mm wire requires more current to melt, as it’s less conductive. Smaller MiGs can struggle with it as they can’t provide enough amps.

Id go 0.8 on everything. I can use both but I’ve been neater with 0.8. I’ve been welding cars for 24years so and 0.8, with proper gas is the way to go.

How does physics work on your planet? It seems to work the opposite way round to the stuff here on earth.