Reb's 205 1.8D - back to work

[DSdriver]

Looks a lot less sketchy than my last effort at getting an engine out which involved a couple of hundred feet of rope slung over a concrete beam and attached to the front bumper of my Rover 3 litre which was then reversed up to obtain lift whilst bits of concrete were raining down on my mate who was trying to control the flying engine.

[Tickman]

3 hours ago, Supernaut said:

That was quick

It is literally just in on the two engine mounts at the top and needs a far bit of logical working through to get the desired outcome.

Went with Scott's plan of just get it in and go from there rather than getting it all ready and then fitting.

It has to be said that Scott and Bernadette did all the hard work getting it out of the previous engine bay without breaking stuff, we only had minor issue with the rear engine mount and driveshaft being slightly difficult to remove but after that it was fairly straightforward.

[reb]

Lower engine mount is on now, Scott's here reassuring me that it's all actually quite simple. The only thing I'm going to need help with really I think is the wiring, but I can tell it's reasonably simple because there's only so many places everything can go.

[Supernaut]

Doesn't an XUD only need something like 3 wires to run?

[reb]

4 minutes ago, Supernaut said:

Doesn't an XUD only need something like 3 wires to run?

Then what the fuck is all this for? Can it go in the bin?

[reb]

Massive AutoDoc order done because half the things I needed either ECP didn't have or they were hideously overpriced. Ideally I'd have done it weeks ago but I didn't know exactly what I needed then. There's a few more bits I want to get but they can wait until it's MOTd.

[Lacquer Peel]

I would do the timing belt while it's "loose" in the car. It is quite an easy one to do. Or eyeball the belt on this engine at least. Have you got a copy of Autodata?

[reb]

6 minutes ago, Lacquer Peel said:

I would do the timing belt while it's "loose" in the car. It is quite an easy one to do. Or eyeball the belt on this engine at least. Have you got a copy of Autodata?

We looked at the belt and it actually looks quite new, so I'm just going to leave it for now. My plan is to refurbish the original engine while being able to drive with this one, so that'll get a new belt and stuff before going in. There's a copy of AutoData on dad's harddrive I'm pretty sure, I'll need to get it from mum and check.

[LightBulbFun]

3 hours ago, reb said:

Then what the fuck is all this for? Can it go in the bin?

maybe you can pull an @Dave_Q and see how few wires you need to get a car through an MOT?

just take all the lights and switches out bung it through a daytime MOT and she'll be reet

 

on a more serious note, im pleased to hear/see you where able to source a replacement XUD engine to drop right in and that its already mostly installed, I hope things continue to go well  

I wonder if the left over XUD is any good for @Talbot's mad project?  

[reb]

Really the only wires that matter in the case of an XUD are the stop solenoid wire, the alternator wire and the starter wire (so @Supernautis correct despite my facetious response!) So as long as I can find and attach those three it should be fine, I don't think any of the lighting wiring is disconnected.

And I'm pretty sure Talbot is after a TUD rather than an XUD, for reasons I've completely forgotten!

[LightBulbFun]

13 minutes ago, reb said:

Really the only wires that matter in the case of an XUD are the stop solenoid wire, the alternator wire and the starter wire (so @Supernautis correct despite my facetious response!) So as long as I can find and attach those three it should be fine, I don't think any of the lighting wiring is disconnected.

pffft who needs a stop solenoid, just stall it with the clutch and top gear! (or on a slightly more serious note, I wonder if you could make a mechanically actuated stop lever of some kind, just move a lever to that actuates a valve to cut off fuel etc)

13 minutes ago, reb said:

And I'm pretty sure Talbot is after a TUD rather than an XUD, for reasons I've completely forgotten!

I think he wants a smaller engine as an XUD for his application is a bit overpowered IIRC (bet thats the first time Overpowered has been said with regards to an XUD!)

but an overpowered Death mower is the best kind of the Death mower is it not?

but failing that, I wonder if you could cut an XUD in half and make the worlds first? 2 cylinder XUD... and that way you even have a spare engine for aforementioned death mower

ok ill shut up now. LOL

[reb]

4 spanners might go some way to explaining why it took us so long to get the engine out yesterday!

[Supernaut]

What the fuck is classed as five spanners then?

[Tickman]

38 minutes ago, Lacquer Peel said:

I would do the timing belt while it's "loose" in the car. It is quite an easy one to do. Or eyeball the belt on this engine at least. 

We had a look at the belt where the top mount is and it didn't look worn or shiny, it could be very old but...

An executive* decision was made to put it in as a stop gap while the original engine gets a once over. 

Better the progress with the car rather than being too fastidious at the moment.

[reb]

5 minutes ago, Supernaut said:

What the fuck is classed as five spanners then?

The only thing I can find is Dynamic Pump Timing

It's a bit of a cop out though because it basically just says "You definitely won't have the equipment to do this so it is beyond the scope of this book to describe the process"

[reb]

I'm getting a bit ahead of myself here, but will the brakes be alright? It had new discs and pads not long before it came off the road, they were hardly bedded in because I wasn't driving it much because it stank of diesel when it was running. Because they're basically unused the discs don't have big flakey rust on them just fine surface rust. Is it just a case of driving it up and down the access road for my unit doing a few stops to clean up the discs? I'm not too worried if that'd ruin the pads because they can be had very cheaply and I've had them on and off enough times I could probably do it in my sleep. I'd rather not have to get new discs though as they were actually a good brand!

Like I say though, I'm getting a bit ahead of myself here as the engine is still not connected up and it's probably going to be a few weeks before my haul of parts arrives from AutoDoc.

[Spurious]

Discs will be fine, they'll clean up with use. I would make sure the caliper floats properly so they don't bind. At the very minimum give the calipers a thump of a hammer or better yet, pop the caliper off and grease the sliders with red rubber grease. 

[Spurious]

Like if you're really worried you could pop the discs off and wire wheel them and then run them over with some sand paper but if it's just surface rust, they'll clean up with use. 

Worth flushing the system too, I've an ezbleed air bleeder if you're near Manchester. 

[reb]

I'm going to have the hub carriers, therefore also the calipers, off in order to do the wheel bearings (it's been rolling about and sitting with the driveshafts out, so I'm assuming they're knackered, I'd rather just replace them preemptively than find out they've had it once everything's back together) so I'll grease the calipers and make sure they're free when I do that.

[reb]

1 minute ago, Spurious said:

 

Worth flushing the system too, I've an ezbleed air bleeder if you're near Manchester. 

I have a vacuum bleed kit, that should do the job shouldn't it?

[Spurious]

1 minute ago, reb said:

I have a vacuum bleed kit, that should do the job shouldn't it?

Yea, same idea, that just pulls the fluid out, the one I have pushes it out from the master cylinder. 

[juular]

You could dump the discs in some hot citric acid for a bit of pickling. It will take the rust off completely.

Before 

After

Or just drive it.

 

[Snake Charmer]

On 8/1/2021 at 7:50 PM, Supernaut said:

What the fuck is classed as five spanners then?

Having an appropriate adult present?

[Supernaut]

As others have said; clean up and grease the slider pins, then just drive it, giving the brakes a few good stomps to clean the discs.

I've done that with many cars in the past and haven't died yet. Not even a little bit.

[reb]

Crusty, suboptimal.

Shiny, better.

[Tickman]

Well done for plodding along.

Keep it up

[reb]

I was hoping to get back after dinner to continue sorting out coolant hoses but the jubilee clips keep bursting so I need to buy new ones. The assortments on eBay and Amazon don't seem to be ideal as they don't seem to go big enough, I'll have to measure up the hoses then I'll probably use my shiny new trade card to buy the correct sizes from Halfords to save having to wait for them to be delivered. If @Supernautcomes this weekend we can probably get it almost ready to run. My AutoDoc order with such things as coolant, lower arms and wheel bearings was dispatched today, so the countdown to it being delivered has started! Any guesses as to how long it'll take? Reviews are mixed with some saying a week or two and some saying months, some saying it just never turned up. They're the most economical and actually the only place to get some parts now so I didn't have much choice.

[Longbridge Apologist]

On 8/1/2021 at 12:09 AM, DodgyBastard said:

 

Donor car doesn't look too bad!

[Ghosty]

I'd be giving it 2 weeks to a month.

The discs and pads will be fine with some bedding in.

[DodgyBastard]

1 hour ago, Longbridge Apologist said:

Donor car doesn't look too bad!

It wasn't that bad, bit of rot behind the headlights and a hole in the sill but I bought it for the rear axle for my other 205 so it's fate was sealed anyway. It was just coincidence that Reb needed an engine when this arrived.