idiot Kiltox’s eternally fucked 1992 Renault Clio 1.4 RT auto

[Kiltox]

Back to this ungrateful little cunt

Cleaned up the crank sensor - no difference  

Doesnt start with two different new MAP sensors fitted, runs like arse with the original. 

Guess I’ll need to get my scope out and try to see what waveforms I have at these sensors 

[Kiltox]

Old MAP sensor is definitely a bit duff. New one has much cleaner signals in line with what I’d expect. 

If I let it warm up a bit and then swap the sensor to the new one it starts and runs for a second then cuts out, sounds far far healthier for the brief time it runs 

Not really any further forward but I’ve read that dodgy temperature sensors can cause issues like this on these engines so I’m going to test that next 

[SiC]

Disconnecting the coolant sensor make any difference? Probably bloody cold enough out there at the moment for it not to need it!

[Kiltox]

Doesn’t seem to make much of a difference, sadly   

[SiC]

If it runs exactly the same with it disconnected, then it could possibly be it. What's the resistance across the sensor? Probably cheap as chips to replace too?

[Kiltox]

Haven’t done any testing bar unplugging it/them yet, definitely what I’ll be looking at next

There are two sensors next to each other in the block, one brown and one white, haven’t worked out what the difference is yet. Wonder if one of them does the gauge in the dash and the other sends a signal to the ECU. 

[SiC]

Possibly. Or one is a thermistor that does the ECU and gauge. The other one being a simple switch to turn the engine fan on and off. Was a common arrangement on many older cars. 

[Kiltox]

14 minutes ago, SiC said:

Possibly. Or one is a thermistor that does the ECU and gauge. The other one being a simple switch to turn the engine fan on and off. Was a common arrangement on many older cars. 

I’d normally expect to find the switch on the radiator itself but you might be right. Need to work out which is which ?

[rainagain]

Can’t you just unplug them in turn and see which one affects the dash? Some gauges don’t even move to cold when connected so you might need to either find some way of heating up that part of the block or you could substitute a resistor between the sensor wire and ground. 
 

I’m sure if you google the sensor you should find approx values for it being hot and cold. You could use these values to test them. As in chuck an ohm meter between the sensor and the block and check the resistance makes sense for a cold engine. 

[rainagain]

Here’s a general idea of what you should be expecting:

“Depending on the manufacturer:
25°C 2.0 – 6 KOhm or 80°C approx. 300 Ohm”

https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Sensors-and-actuators/Test-coolant-temperature-sensor-4277/#

 

[Kiltox]

I’ll whip them both out and test them on the bench - the coolant needs changing anyway 

[Noel Tidybeard]

On 12/9/2019 at 10:07 PM, Kiltox said:

Haven’t done any testing bar unplugging it/them yet, definitely what I’ll be looking at next

There are two sensors next to each other in the block, one brown and one white, haven’t worked out what the difference is yet. Wonder if one of them does the gauge in the dash and the other sends a signal to the ECU. 

yes- this is the same on the 1.4 energy

1 does gauge the other does the cold start via brain no doubt

[Kiltox]

Still got this. Still utterly stumped as to what’s wrong with it. 

Look at it, though, scrapping it would be like kicking a puppy!

[Kiltox]

Bored waiting for parts for the Rover/Fox so decided to make a video about it. Nothing that hasn’t been covered in this thread really. 

 

[Aston Martin]

It does look good. Hopefully you can fix it. 

[Isaac Hunt]

I’ve no clue on the ignition or fuel setup on these, BUT on a similar age Rover 414SLi I had a load of grief with smooth running at low revs.   The thing would drop off revs at idle then ‘Jack the revs up’.  Driving at slow speed was a real art, fine at 1/3 to full throttle. 

It turned out to be the Throttle Position Sensor, had a break in the track, so the ECU was getting a bad signal.  Sometimes it was worse than others.  I had eliminated plugs, leads, rotor a, dissy cap.  Took me ages to find the problem.  

As I say, I know fookhall about the setup on a Renner Clito, but if it has a throttle position switch, might be worth a try.

Dont let it stop you on the compression test though

[Marm Toastsmith]

Nice thing. Gotta be fixable!

[stuboy]

is it carb or injection? 

[Kiltox]

45 minutes ago, stuboy said:

is it carb or injection? 

Injection - single point 

[bramz7]

I can't see it being recommended yet but Paul Cunningham runs a Renault specialist down in Worthing would probably know what's up with it. He's on Facebook too, so I'm sure he wouldn't mind being asked as to what it could be. 

I once bought a Clio Baccara off of him that had been converted to manual, by him, several years before. 

[Kiltox]

Compression test was fairly bloody inconclusive.