Zelandeth Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 Worth sticking a bit of clear pipe between the pump and carb (or a clear inline filter if you don't already have one) to make sure the fuel pump isn't drawing air in somewhere. Bubbles in there indicate that there's an issue in that department. LightBulbFun and BlankFrank 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garycox Posted July 19, 2019 Author Share Posted July 19, 2019 There’s a new clear in-line filter before the pump which is full and clear, and the pump is new. I’m convinced it fuelling related rather than electrical but most people are more knowledgeable than me so open to any suggestions! It must be something relatively minor but it’s doing my head in (and has already cost a days pay so far through being unable to get to work!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HMC Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 I had something similar with a Volvo amazon and it turned out to be the float level in the carb dashpot being too low- after I replaced everything else. Not my finest hour , utter heap that was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HMC Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 I just bent the arm to allow more fuel in, I’m sure there’s a more precise way but it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Speed Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 Garycox - another thought. You don't mention cleaning out the float chamber. In the 80s my commute used to be M25- M26-M20 which I used to do in a 6 year old (and therefore cheap) Citroen GS 1220. There was a period of 2 or 3 weeks when it would - every single morning - come to a spluttering halt half way along the M26. I assumed it was duff / damp ignition, since the dizzy is very low down and the roads was winter. I replaced all the electrical bits and went through a whole can of WD40 without success. It turned out to be the fuel filter disintegrating and bits of it (the clean side) getting into the float chamber. After 20 miles of 80/90 mph M25/M26 (this was possible in the 80s) enough particles of filter would have been dragged into the exit port to block it. After a couple of minutes with the engine off or even just idling they would float to the top again and of we could go. It never did this on the way home - I can only assume because the traffic was only doing 60/70 and so the fuel flow was not quite enough to drag the particles down. Once I threw the filter away and clean out the float chamber it never happened again. I'm sure some of my fellow commuters though I had been sitting on the hard should for 3 weeks. Stanky, mk2_craig, Lacquer Peel and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garycox Posted July 30, 2019 Author Share Posted July 30, 2019 We changed the condenser and it made no difference. Crap in the tank is the next thing to eliminate, so the tank’s out and currently drying in the garden after being flushed out as best I could. The short bit of rubber pipe joining the tank to the main metal pipe was knackered so that can’t have been helping. Question: when I removed (cut in half) that pipe, should fuel have freely flowed out of the tank or does it have some sort of thing that makes it not do that? Because it didn’t. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 No baffles or anything in the tank. If you cut the pipe from the L shaped pipe to the main line then it should pour steadily out unless really gummed up with shite somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Do these have one of those socks over the fuel pick up in the tank to stop it sucking up crap? If so, perhaps that's gone/clogged/stuck in the pipe. Initially it really did sound like condenser issues too. Whatever it is, you can bet it'll be something simple and stupid. Hopefully you'll have better luck than Captain70s did with his! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 How much crap came out of the tank when you flushed it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garycox Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 Not much, there was some “stuff” in there but less than expected. Anyway, all refitted with a new rubber pipe and it’s EXACTY THE BASTARD SAME. in addition, the clutch is now playing up again and it’s near impossible to get in any gear when stationary. AARGH This car is costing me an awful lot in train fares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 When you changed the condenser, did you put new points on or at least inspect the points? A condenser failing takes out the points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 It's not the ignition switch playing up is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zelandeth Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 55 minutes ago, SiC said: When you changed the condenser, did you put new points on or at least inspect the points? A condenser failing takes out the points. Seconding this. Even if they look okay to the eye it's important to at least clean and regap them at the very least. You mentioned that it's hard to restart after it dies... I'd be curious to see if a (careful!) scoosh of fuel down the carb throat makes it spring to life immediately again. Take it you don't know anyone with an exhaust CO% meter or a friendly garage who could check it out for you...it should be really easy to see if it's fuel starvation as the CO level will drop like a stone right as she cuts out. Whereas if it's an ignition issue I would expect it to go up due to poor combustion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catsinthewelder Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 Try checking that the earth wire from the coil is securely earthed to the body. If it's loose it will give similar symptoms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 Just remind us what you have done/tried thus far? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egrvalve Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 If this is an su carb it really sounds like overfuelling. Is there fuel coming from the float chamber vent pipe? This is a symptom if so. Take off the float chamber lid and check the float isn't holed and failing to .... errrrr float, which is the mechanism which shuts off the fuel when the desired level is present in the float chamber. If that's ok lift the float to replicate a full float chamber and blow into the fuel inlet pipe. No air should pass. If air passes it may be crud blocking the needle valve. Or a faulty valve. Or the valve could require adjustment (Google su float adjustment as there are different methods depending on the type of float) The pump pressure could also be too high for the needle valve to shut off which would require a pressure limiting device in line. Alternatively it could be none of this. It does sound like how my mini behaves when oveefuelling though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Speed Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Any news? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garycox Posted August 26, 2019 Author Share Posted August 26, 2019 We fitted a heat shield as suggested by a couple of other Dolomite 1300 owners, and simultaneously the clutch decided to go on strike, so now that needs fixing before it can be test driven ? Frankly, I’ve lost patience with this now. I’ve spent a load in train fares because we need more than one working car, and yesterday I bought a Saab. Another imminent purchase means I need money and space, so this, the Astra and the Simca need to go. I’d like to fix this so it goes in a driveable state but motivation is pretty low right now so, if anyone fancies it as-is, let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamworthbay Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 On 8/26/2019 at 11:19 PM, garycox said: We fitted a heat shield as suggested by a couple of other Dolomite 1300 owners, and simultaneously the clutch decided to go on strike, so now that needs fixing before it can be test driven ? Frankly, I’ve lost patience with this now. I’ve spent a load in train fares because we need more than one working car, and yesterday I bought a Saab. Another imminent purchase means I need money and space, so this, the Astra and the Simca need to go. I’d like to fix this so it goes in a driveable state but motivation is pretty low right now so, if anyone fancies it as-is, let me know. Is the clutch not engaging? When I first got it I had to fit a new slave cylinder which was a devil to bleed. The trick was to bleed it then bolt it on as you can get a better angle. The slave is a known weak spot on these and they don’t like to be sat unused. They are easy to change from under the car but even easier if you take the transmission cover off - lots of pics on my thread about the Dolly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 tried leaving the fuel cap loose/off just in case its a vent problem ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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