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Posted

saab had first real test this weekend. Towing from swindon to brissel and back, then, ahem, making progress to torquey and back. It tows well and is a comfy place to sit. Averaged about 22mpg towing, don't know what it did on the solo run, but overall average now up to 28. Schluurrpp.

 

Did well, didn't need any of the 10 litres of water I put in the boot (beep beep beep beep fucking beep) just in case. hurrah, hopefully it's now "dry".

 

However, tyres must be well fucked. In the stop start joy that is the m5 it revealed a massive vibration at 15mph - so much so that the body was swaying in a "if the vans a rocking don't come rocking" type way. As it was the m5, we had to endure this for quite a while, ended up feeling quite sick.

 

They all leak air a bit, and have over half worn, but only just which makes me loathe to throw them away, so think I will buy it 2 new* wheels, stick a new pair of boots on the front and then have a proper spare wheel rather than a shitey space saver and a spare spare.

 

Brakes are a bit tired and emotional as well.

 

 

On the plus side scored a pair of axle stands from me dad, so that should make doing that a bit easier.

Posted

Cut n' paste:

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Insert Key

Do not press clutch / brake

Press Start button

Wait until the Car / revelant Service symbol disappears on the Rev counter display

Immediately after the symbol goes out - Press and hold Both buttons on the Rev Counter

Continue to hold - the system Will run a dash light check

Continue to hold

Display will then show VIN / Menu, - continue to hold through this until the time Reappears on the display.

Now release Only the Right hand Button (trip reset) for about a second, and then press and hold again (whilst still holding the LH button)

After another second or 2 the display will show the Front Brake Symbol You Are Now in the Service Menu

Use the BC Button (on indicator stalk) to scroll through to the relevant symbol - eg Rear Brakes

 

To Reset the warning indicator light - Press & Hold the BC Button at the revelant symbol until RESETappears - then press and hold again until the process is complete.

 

Turn Off and On the Ignition again - Warning should now have gone.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

I used this to reset the MOT reminder as well as the brake service warning reminder after I changed the discs & pads on my old car.

 

I didn't replace the wear sensors, but my pads weren't that badly worn (they were disintegrating due to the car sitting around a lot / not moving). I think once the wear sensor sees some 'action' , the service computer won't reset till you replace with a new one (They're about £8 each from GSF / ECP).

 

That's the advice I've seen too, and yep - it isn't resetting so I'm tempted to agree with you.

Wear sensors are that cheap? I'll get Old Man on that, then.

Posted

Used the Mercedes for the first time in a month (when I had the gearbox oil changed this afternoon-last time . Key in the ignition, turn it and she starts straightaway. I had forgotten how smooth and quiet she runs, and really enjoyed driving for once. 

Posted

Can't believe it. I am a naturally optimistic guy and see the good in most things, but since 2008 everything I touch has turned to shit. My business went bust, my wife left me, my new girlfriend died aged 36 in 2010 and I've been to some very dark places.

I don't harp on about it however.

Started a new job 3 months ago and had my 3 month review today. Excelled at everything and stone the crows, how about a promotion? Oh and a 10k pay rise? We love you.......

Turned a corner? :-)

Posted

Not about your girlfriend nat,

  • Like 1
Posted

And in typical Law of the Sod fashion, the Lancia's washer jet has stopped working. Can't get the bonnet open because the cable sticks and it's a 2 person job to free it, so just put it in for the test and will see what happens

Posted

Bonnet will usually work if you park it facing slightly downhill when you attempt to open it.

 

Hopefully the washer will have started working again by the time it's having its test. Fingers crossed here.

Posted

Of course the cable may have stretched a little more by now, so that could no longer be the case. I really should have adjusted that cable, but it was always easier to ask family, neighbours or random passers by to pull the lever while I opened the bonnet.

Posted

I have that problem with the bonnet on the Panda750...I also just ask someone to lift while I pull the lever, but I do carry a long crowbar around, so if I am on my own I can pull the lever and lift the bonnet at the same time. Place crowbar between wing top and bonnet and a flick of the wrist while pulling the lever, it's open...

Posted

I found that pushing and pulling on the bonnet over the passenger side and then pulling the lever often did the trick.  The washer jets worked erratically for me so like Phil says hopefully it's just a loose connection under the spare wheel.

 

Does the Panda's bonnet hinge at the front?  Sounds like it, if so unfortunately that won't work for the Y10 as it's a conventional one hinged at the back.

 

Before I took it down to Plymouth I had my local garage give it a good going over and aside from some slightly worn engine/gearbox mounts they couldn't really find anything much wrong with it so fingers crossed it'll be OK.

Posted

No, it's conventional, it hinges at the back...like I said, it's a loooong and hefty crowbar... :-D

Posted

Today, my aim is to fit new anti-roll bar drop links to the XM. They're huge! Far longer than I expected. Someone on Club XM has told me it should take ten minutes per side. However, I'm fully expecting the nuts to be seized, so we'll see how many hours it actually becomes. Angle grinder on standby.

Posted

i always just chop the old ones off anyway, its never worth the effort trying to undo them

Posted

I suspect that will soon be my conclusion. Once I've finished my brew, I'll head outside. It's actually sunny!

Posted

That's the advice I've seen too, and yep - it isn't resetting so I'm tempted to agree with you.

Wear sensors are that cheap? I'll get Old Man on that, then.

After having a couple of BMWs , even I ,a notorious tightwad, always replace sensors whenever doing pads. Why I keep the old ones in my " That'll go again " box with random part worn brake pads , I have no idea.

Posted

(semi)FTP shockker!!

Reduced selection of 3/4/5 & no reverse earlier today.

Could get 1 or 2 if I pulled the 'reverse block' off.

Hooned up to my MOT man... I sat in car, up on lift, and he went under with a spanner and offered me a range of gears - ending with 5+R. :)

No Charge WIN

Clio notorious JB1 say no more.

TS

Posted

The Cortina blew it's oil pump gasket at the weekend, oil pissing everywhere.

I've recently bought a bottom end gasket set, a GT cam, new followers, GT inlet manifold, GT exhaust manifold + exhaust and I need to buy a GT carb.

This is a good excuse to pull the engine out (engine needs to be flipped to fit the cam), so tonight I'll be disconnecting it all, hauling it out and taking it to my unit to start stripping it down over the weekend.

 

Hopefully I'll be able to refit it early next week, in standard form; but with the cam fitted, until I get the new carb.

  • Like 2
Posted

Bonnet will usually work if you park it facing slightly downhill when you attempt to open it.

 

Hopefully the washer will have started working again by the time it's having its test. Fingers crossed here.

 

 

You'll be glad to know it went straight through, only advisories being the floor is undersealed and some sharp edges on the nsr arch (which he put duck tape on to pass it). Needed the cv boot reattached and some fiddling for the emissions but all ready for its next owner now.

 

by pulling the bonnet on the drivers corner I can just reach inside to get to the lever, but would certainly be easier with two people

Posted

Yay! That's a weight off my mind.

 

Good old Lancia, a brand well known for reliability and always flying through the MOT.

 

Thanks for sorting that out Mr Creep.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ironically, moments after you posted that, my phone rang, I dropped the CG125 in for its MOT on Saturday and it was tested today, the result is quite a spectacular fail and he's suggested thinking twice about mending it.  However, it's mainly bad earths causing lights not to work, a broken indicator switch (which it went through the last MOT with...), seized brake/stand pivot (a standard CG problem) and a knackered chain.  I might just be able to get it sorted this weekend for a retest, if not it'll have to find a new home sans MOT.

 

Poor thing's spent all year outside, much of it uncovered after the wind destroyed its cover, a few yards from the sea and I've barely used it in the last 12 months.  Everything that could be rusty now is and it's a royal pain to start - used to be fine but keeps fouling the plug.  Oh well, that's neglect for you!

Posted

Buying this later today from the blue forum,no collection thread though as its being trailered and going straight to my local garage for some free parking. I am an Audi driver!!!!!

post-4998-0-40980500-1432126203_thumb.jpg

post-4998-0-26567000-1432126218_thumb.jpg

Posted

Some nice Irish shite

 

I'm seriously considering buying this, not bad for a first car... http://www.adverts.ie/car/daihatsu/domino/daihatsu-domino-0-8-petrol/7996548

 

NGIyMjJkNWNiNzQ0M2NmZDY5MGQzNGE5ZmFkNmZm

 

GR8 4 Students

 

Theres another red one on the 'ahem' 'vintage and classic section of DoneDeal, but more reassuringly expensive... that one on adverts looks like a honey, but its a bit of a 'timewaster r genuine buyer/seller roulette' that site; eg. some right aul bottom feeders like myself, on there....

Posted

Naturally, I'm making a right meal of the drop link replacement. Nuts, shockingly came undone. Well. One did. So out with the angle grinder. I promptly chopped the wrong nut. Must get some goggles I can actually see through...

 

So, new tie rod end as well then! The one fitted looked like it had lived in the sea, so only another £10 and it's all looking better. Now having difficulty fitting the new drop link, as the thread is turning. Thinking about it, this must be as designed, so I guess I need to try and get some grips in somehow? I see there is a rectangular piece on the top end, which I thought might need to engage with something. There's now to engage with though. Lunch break!

 

EDIT - I love Google. It has told me why I'm being an idiot.

Posted

....google probably told ye - as the droplinks is usually the last suspension bit to go on, ye jack the car up on the bottom wishbone n left the arb take the weight of the car, n 'lock' the threaded bit from spinning n do up the nyloc nut... also works for 'kylie infulenced' ("IM SPINNIN AROUND") trackrod ends....

Posted

There's actually an allen slot both ends, so the passenger side was an absolute doddle. Easy when you actually know what you're doing. Now much less clonky. Next job: rear spheres. Well, ok. Next job is a tracking check tomorrow morning at the garage.

Posted

Massive uphill struggle trying to get the washers to work on the Herald. Have replaced the bottle and am trying a new pump, but I can't seem to get enough pressure to get water to actually pass through the tubes with any consistency. There are a load of air bubbles in there, is that what's causing the problem? And if so, how do you bleed a ruddy washer system?

Posted

Massive uphill struggle trying to get the washers to work on the Herald. Have replaced the bottle and am trying a new pump, but I can't seem to get enough pressure to get water to actually pass through the tubes with any consistency. There are a load of air bubbles in there, is that what's causing the problem? And if so, how do you bleed a ruddy washer system?

 

My guess is the manual pump is sucking air in?

  • Like 2

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