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Alcyonecorp asks the two bucket wrong 'uns....


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Posted

Sorry, don't agree on the tfr thing, it can stain trim really badly and paint.

We used to use it neat all the time when I was a dealership valeter and in the credit hire car company I worked for, only time we had any issues was on poorly repaired panel damage/shit paint repairs.

 

Obviously it’s advisable to concentrate it, but never seen any ill effects from using it neat.

Posted

We used to use it neat all the time when I was a dealership valeter and in the credit hire car company I worked for, only time we had any issues was on poorly repaired panel damage/shit paint repairs.

 

Obviously it’s advisable to concentrate it, but never seen any ill effects from using it neat.

Maybe some is different. I have seen first had the damage some has caused to a few cars. I keep away from it, but then my cars are all waxed so don't need the harsh stuff.

Posted

Just stop looking at the moss, leave it be, and tell anyone else who asks that it's helping offset your car's carbon footprint.

  • Like 2
Posted

Maybe some is different. I have seen first had the damage some has caused to a few cars. I keep away from it, but then my cars are all waxed so don't need the harsh stuff.

Aye likewise mate, but the sort of stuff we were getting in at Arnold Shark were literally like mobile skips, the sort that McDonald’s were putting their bags of rubbish in. Honestly don’t know how people can drive cars like that, makes me itch thinking about it! These looked like they’d never been washed since the day we sold them to the punter the first time around who had then traded it back in, baked on grime galore! Sometimes only harsh chemicals would remove it.

 

We did only use the neat TFR if they were really bad, generally a prewash was done with something called multiwash over the entire car, then spraying tar and glue remover over the entire car ontop of the multiwash then actually washing the thing, this was our process for stripping the ‘transport wax film’ off of brand new Citroen cars so it usually shifted most stuff but some cars were just so caked on TFR neat was required.

 

And similarly although at the hire place the cars were regularly washed and hoovered they never ever got anything more than a spray of TFR and a wash with some trafalgar shamwax in a cut up 25litre drum as a bucket with a brush to wash them and were being cleaned and washed by guys who didn’t care, and had no interest in washing them properly so the TFR was always needed.

Posted

I hate tfr there I said it, its horrible shit

  • Like 2
Posted

I hate tfr there I said it, its horrible shit

Me to some boy was spraying it all over his Corsa at the petrol station wash, right next to my freshly waxed 75. I was not a happy man  :shock:

Posted

I wish i had taken pictures of father fps dacia duster before i spent the best part of a day putting the paint right after over zealous use of tfr at kosovan valet specialists drive through hand car washes because he couldn't be arsed to wash the car himself

Posted

So, Elbow grease and a toothbrush. I'll get to work.

 

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post-62-0-31946200-1510172179_thumb.jpg

  • Like 7
Posted

We used to use it neat all the time when I was a dealership valeter and in the credit hire car company I worked for, only time we had any issues was on poorly repaired panel damage/shit paint repairs.

 

Obviously it’s advisable to concentrate it, but never seen any ill effects from using it neat.

I was bored while waiting for my truck to be fixed so offered to clean a car he'd bought in that'd been sat under a tree for a year

 

All he had was TFR so I mixed it 1/3 TFR to 2/3 hot water and set about it with a sponge , after a while my hand started tingling , when I got home I'd lost a layer of skin

 

Lesson learned

  • Like 2
Posted

I was bored while waiting for my truck to be fixed so offered to clean a car he'd bought in that'd been sat under a tree for a year

 

All he had was TFR so I mixed it 1/3 TFR to 2/3 hot water and set about it with a sponge , after a while my hand started tingling , when I got home I'd lost a layer of skin

 

Lesson learned

Yup, That's my experience with TFR as well, also it makes a real mess of plastic bumpers- unpainted ones.. They go white and streaky. Nasty stuff and needs  care.

 

MSDS... For us health and safety bods,,

 

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwiKkpvW76_XAhXGXrwKHeF-Bf8QFggoMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fautosmart.co.uk%2Fpub%2Fmedia%2Fwysiwyg%2Fsds_sheets%2FTFR_SDS21109_GBR.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2uaJMTp2fpXTL7Tlnb3OAR

 

Signal word Danger

Hazard statements H290 May be corrosive to metals.

H314 Causes severe skin burns and eye damage.

H317 May cause an allergic skin reaction.

Precautionary statements P260 Do not breathe vapour/ spray.

P280 Wear protective gloves/ protective clothing/ eye protection/ face protection.

P301+P330+P331 IF SWALLOWED: Rinse mouth. Do NOT induce vomiting.

P303+P361+P353 IF ON SKIN (or hair): Take off immediately all contaminated clothing.

Rinse skin with water/ shower.

P304+P340 IF INHALED: Remove person to fresh air and keep comfortable for breathing.

P305+P351+P338 IF IN EYES: Rinse cautiously with water for several minutes. Remove

contact lenses, if present and easy to do. Continue rinsing.

Contains methyl trimethyl-3-[(1-oxododecyl)amino]propylammonium sulphate

Supplementary precautionary

statements

P264 Wash contaminated skin thoroughly after handling.

P272 Contaminated work clothing should not be allowed out of the workplace.

P333+P313 If skin irritation or rash occurs: Get medical advice/ attention.

P362+P364 Take off contaminated clothing and wash it before reuse.

P390 Absorb spillage to prevent material damage.

P501 Dispose of contents/ container in accordance with national regulations.

Posted

I'll ask this here since I've been wondering for a while.

 

What is a two bucket wrong 'un?

 

I've seen it said on here a few times but don't get it.

Posted

I'll ask this here since I've been wondering for a while.

 

What is a two bucket wrong 'un?

 

I've seen it said on here a few times but don't get it.

Detailer type who insists on the two bucket method etc. Was christened the two bucket wrong un by The Rt Hon Cavcraft i believe.

  • Like 2
Posted

I'll ask this here since I've been wondering for a while.

 

What is a two bucket wrong 'un?

 

I've seen it said on here a few times but don't get it.

those weird folk that use 2 buckets to clean a vehicle...1 is used to 'clean' the sponge..the other to apply soapy watter

  • Like 1
Posted

Good advice here but I have two things to add....I wouldn't be jet-washing my cars anywhere near window seals.  If these are a bit past their best its all too easy to actually wash them out (don't ask how I know, etc....).  It also risks forcing water into places rain never gets and from where it never dries..... 

 

Secondly, Elbow Grease is brilliant stuff and I use it all the time but they seem to have changed the formula to a more aggressive one - get it off paintwork as soon as you can. 

 

Finally a bit of silicone grease fingered on with a paper towel will help prevent the irritating black stains that sometimes run down flat vertical panels from dirty rubber.  For a while.....

Makes a change something being more aggressive.....remember when Nitramors was good??? not its pish , as the Scots put it!!!

Posted

those weird folk that use 2 buckets to clean a vehicle...1 is used to 'clean' the sponge..the other to apply soapy watter

Yeah... those weird folk...

 

I don't do stuff like that. Never. Not me.

Posted

Moss removal is easy:

 

- Remove large clumps by hand or, if they're awkward to get to, a bamboo skewer or small plastic prodder of some sort.  These tools are soft enough to not damage the rubber.

- squirt some soapy water or kitchen cleaner onto the previously mossy surfaces and scrub thoroughly with a toothbrush.

- use a hosepipe to flush out the dirt.

- repeat until clean.

 

White vinegar I've found has mixed results at keeping moss and lichen away.  The best way to keep the green off is regular cleaning and suitable trim treatment or wax, depending on the surface you want to protect.

Posted

What would you use to get moss off a fabric hood?  The car is in use every day and gets a regular going over at the local people smuggling car wash but its as green as Caroline Lucas in places.

Posted

Mould and algae are living things, so you gotta kill off the spores. Anything mildly bleachy or milton/steradent ish will do that, then a good scrub with really soapy water,then a good rinse and dry. Caravans and motorhomes are terrible for this problem as they sit under trees for months and years.

Posted

those weird folk that use 2 buckets to clean a vehicle...1 is used to 'clean' the sponge..the other to apply soapy watter

I'll admit to giving that a go , but after 3 dips I couldn't remember which bucket was which so tipped one over the car and carried on with one

Posted

nail brush or floor brush for a fabric roof and scrub in a circular motion.  Rinse frequently and work one area at a time.  It'll take a while.  There's various fabric roof sealants on the market that will help keep it waterproof without damaging things and inhibit the growth of more moss.  A regular cleaning regime and annual deep clean should stop the organisms repopulating.  I'd avoid using any bleach on a fabric roof, you might get away with it once but each time you do it you risk bleaching the dye a little more every time and could end up with an ugly blotchy roof as a result.

Posted

1 is used to 'clean' the sponge

 

No self respecting two bucket right 'un would ever put a sponge near their paintwork. Lambs wool wash mitts are the correct tool. Those who have truly ascended are 3 bucket right 'uns; separate bucket for wheel cleaning and separate wash mitt for the lower portions of cars.

Posted

Floppy tops on MGF's can be taken off fairly easily and jet washed without any major issues. 

Posted

No self respecting two bucket right 'un would ever put a sponge near their paintwork. Lambs wool wash mitts are the correct tool. Those who have truly ascended are 3 bucket right 'uns; separate bucket for wheel cleaning and separate wash mitt for the lower portions of cars.

Don’t forget the detailing brushes for cleaning in the nooks and crannies like badges and so on, and 2 wheel brushes, one for the outer face and one of these weird bent ones that allow cleaning of the inside of the spokes and barrels that you can’t ever see unless you take the wheel off the car. And a harsher brush for scrubbing the tyre sidewalls.

 

I sorta like and do try to maintain the whole 2 bucket wrong in thing but I get bored and lazy and start to cut corners again, more to life than arch liners so clean you could eat your dinner off especially when 5 minutes after cleaning when you jump in the car to go to the shops they’ll be filthy again.

Posted

Don’t forget the detailing brushes for cleaning in the nooks and crannies like badges and so on, and 2 wheel brushes, one for the outer face and one of these weird bent ones that allow cleaning of the inside of the spokes and barrels that you can’t ever see unless you take the wheel off the car. And a harsher brush for scrubbing the tyre sidewalls.

 

I sorta like and do try to maintain the whole 2 bucket wrong in thing but I get bored and lazy and start to cut corners again, more to life than arch liners so clean you could eat your dinner off especially when 5 minutes after cleaning when you jump in the car to go to the shops they’ll be filthy again.

I dress my archliners with Autosmart fusion, i fear i need help.

Posted

No self respecting two bucket right 'un would ever put a sponge near their paintwork. Lambs wool wash mitts are the correct tool. Those who have truly ascended are 3 bucket right 'uns; separate bucket for wheel cleaning and separate wash mitt for the lower portions of cars.

 

And a sock for afterwards. 

Posted

I dress my archliners with Autosmart fusion, i fear i need help.

Don’t get me wrong I’ve actually spent 4/5 hours at a time whipping the alloys off my cars and de-tarring them, claying them and then putting a coat of wax on them, then brushing out the arches with a stiff brush to remove most of the crud, then washing them, then iron x then tar remover and having them smooth as glass before dressing them, I even go as far as to unscrew the number plates when washing my car to clean behind them but other times I just can’t be bothered wasting time cleaning bits that are only ever going to get really dirty again very quickly.

 

So I think I’m also in the ‘I need help’ category.

  • Like 2
Posted

Yeah I reckon. Windscreen, front side windows, lights and the VISIBLE face of the number plates. Nothing else required.

Posted

Don’t get me wrong I’ve actually spent 4/5 hours at a time whipping the alloys off my cars and de-tarring them, claying them and then putting a coat of wax on them, then brushing out the arches with a stiff brush to remove most of the crud, then washing them, then iron x then tar remover and having them smooth as glass before dressing them, I even go as far as to unscrew the number plates when washing my car to clean behind them but other times I just can’t be bothered wasting time cleaning bits that are only ever going to get really dirty again very quickly.

 

So I think I’m also in the ‘I need help’ category.

Once a year i do the wheels off job, Normally late March to get all the salt out of the arches. Clean back of the wheels and repaint the calipers and centre part of the brake disks that always seem to go tatty over the winter.

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