1993 Peugeot 205 STDT

[UltraWomble]

Front mount:

 

Top Mount

[wuvvum]

nice motors but wtf 15 replies and not one mention of Bosch this place is slipping

I don't think any of these TDs got Bosch pumps did they?

[2MB]

I don't think any of these TDs got Bosch pumps did they?

Not in 205s no

[derskine]

I won't be changing the engine, I'm not looking for huge power at all.

It's fine as it is - but due to the ease of getting more power I might as well.

 

My only gripe with it is the heater is a bit shit. Maybe because I'm used to a Volvo but it just seems to always blow warm and not toasty hot.

[Richard]

French heaters are generally marginal at best.

[320touring]

French heaters are generally marginal at best.

This!

[Lacquer Peel]

The heaters in XUD 405s are furnace hot.

[derskine]

The thing is, I don't remember the one in my 309 being this woeful, though I had it in summer, but on damp days I would whap it on and it'd be alright.

[Supernaut]

The heater in my XUD 306 was brilliant too.

 

Maybe need to have a look at your 205? Thermostat, low coolant? I don't really know.

[Anthony]

If it's the original matrix then it's probably partly clogged. They're cheap and easy to replace on 205's if that is the issue.

 

Whilst they're never scalding, in good order the heater should be pretty warm and uncomfortable to leave on full heat/blow for an extended period.

 

In my experience they're never as good as the heater in a 306 or 405 though, which is particularly curious in the case of the later as it's exactly the same heater matrix as a 205 uses IIRC!

[Dave_Q]

In my experience of XUD heaters they're hot when going, but take several miles of fairly hard driving to warm up properly.

[derskine]

For comparison, the heater in my Hillman Imp is better. Perhaps changing the matrix is a good shout.

[M'coli]

The heater in my TD Sceptre was a bag of shit, even after replacing the matrix.  The heater in my first Imp was awesome, mainly because it had a 30psi pressure cap on the (Vauxhall Astra) header tank and ran well above 100^oC all the time...

[Jim Bell]

Every 205, 305, 306, 309, 405 Ive had have always had great heaters?  The motors or fans always squealed on 205s and 309s but the heat was always goot.  Thermostat?

[sierraman]

All diesels take quite a bit of time to 'warm through' enough to get a good heater.

[forddeliveryboy]

All diesels take quite a bit of time to 'warm through' enough to get a good heater.

I've found that it's usually the more efficient direct injection diesels which take longer to warm up, because of less waste heat. Generally, the older ones warm faster from cold, it's worth checking the thermostat and operation of the heater flaps if things aren't toasty after three miles.

[andy18s]

Indeed,the Land Rover/Ford/Peugeot 2.7 v6 needs it's fuel burning heater to help get the engine up to temp within a reasonable time..and not to warm the car up as many people think

Although the software can be fiddled with to have it work with a timer,or on the key fob.

[They_all_do_that_sir]

The XM takes an age for the heater to get up to temp but once there its grand. More proof that diesels aren't great for short journeys, they never reach operating temperature

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

[Faker]

Excellent vehicular purchase. I too love these things. Over here on the emerald isle a bog standard inca diesel will fetch ridiculous money, never mind an stdt.

 

Have a pic of one local to me which always makes me bite my lip! It's got a 19xud d-turbo lump and really looks the nuts..

[Faker]

In fact.... have another pic!

[derskine]

All diesels take quite a bit of time to 'warm through' enough to get a good heater.

 

Aye, but you'd think 250 miles would be enough. My feet were freezing on the way back from London.

 

Not sure where temp gauge is meant to sit, mine is sitting maybe 1/3 the way, I seem to remember from my 309 that this is normal.

[M'coli]

That's spectacularily pish - my 205 diesel had a toasty centre console after about 80 or so miles, it wasn't that bad. There is the option (because it's not hot weather) at the moment of patrly covering over the radiator with some card to see if the temperature gauge shifts any further up the scale - if it does, then the thermotstat's gubbed, if it doesn't, it's fine.

[explosive-cabbage]

Front mount:

 

Top Mount

These are both petrols!...

The top one is running a bored out 2.2 Mi16 with a massive Garret turbo, I saw it at Pugfest a few years ago. 501bhp if I remember correctly.

 

Re: Rare recon 1.7 Td radiator and inner wing water pipe. I have both in stock, pm me if you need 😊

[DodgyBastard]

DSC_7651 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

Think I need a bonnet vent on this...

[scruff]

Excellent purchase.

 

Mine was great, I sold it to a mate and helped him put a 1.9 in, it's been through two other pals since and is just coming to the end of a virtual restoration!! They do seem to rust worse than other 205s. Which factory were they built in does anyone know?

 

If anybody wants an original STDT engine, the one from mine is still sat at the back of my friend's garage in Alton, complete I think except for the starter motor. 

[derskine]

DSC_7651 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

Think I need a bonnet vent on this...

 

I thought that too when I heard about the restriction in the 205. I guess just watch what temp its running at when you get to using it and decide if you need a front mount/bonnet vent of sorts.

[derskine]

Apologies for no additional pics of the car, my phone has broken and I haven't got round to getting it sorted yet.

 

Some issues with the car after 1000 miles in it:

 

• Boot won't open. Not sure why, don't really need to use it but suspect button mechanism is knackered.
• Idle issue when hot, very smokey and idle seems to surge a tiny bit, when it's cold it runs much better. There's a little rubber gaiter that's broken on the front of the pump and suspect the cause might be the internals of this but I have no idea what this is.
• Heater still pretty shit, coolant level seems fine/seems to be no bubbles.  I did notice that the Temp gauge doesn't start at the bottom when I switch the car on, it seems to rise from the first marker and not the 0 marker. I'm yet to get round to putting some cardboard in front of the radiator to see if it blows hotter.
• Bought some brake pads but they were the wrong type, not sure if I need GTI pads, the calipers are Bendix on this.
• Screenwash pump has stopped working because a previous owner has cut the plug off for some reason and badly crimped female spade terminals on which have failed. I'll need to get the solder out as the wires are really too short to reach.
• N/S wishbone still needs replaced but doesn't seem to have deteriorated any further.

[Anthony]

If you pull the black plastic panel off the inside of the boot, all should become clear why the boot won't open. The key and central locking should turn the white plastic part on the lock which will then push against the lock latch when you press the boot button in the unlocked position. With the boot locked, the position of that white plastic part means that it misses the lock latch when you press the boot button.

 

In terms of temperature, it should sit somewhere between 80 and 85, rising to 90 under sustained heavy load or in traffic. The gauge not starting from the resting point is fairly normal.

 

(that's a GTi cluster, so ignore the oil temperature gauge at the top)

 

STDT's use 1.6 GTi Bendix brake calipers and 1.9 GTi front disks - you'll need 1.6 GTi brake pads, not base model Bendix pads like other diesels used.

 

The screenwash pump connectors are notorious for bad connections and many have been "fixed" like yours. You'll likely need to cut the wiring back several inches, maybe even a foot, to find clean copper wire in my experience of fixing these. Last couple of 205's I've done I've used the pump and length of wiring from a scrap Berlingo/Partner van, which works well and has a proper sealed connector on it so gives less issues in future.

[derskine]

It sits at around 70 (my gauge doesn't have temp numbers), so sounds like my thermostat might need replacing.

 

Central locking doesn't work for some reason. I remember with my 309 you could feel the resistance in the lock from the solenoid, but on this it's like it doesn't have central locking, except for the boot lock. I'll get that panel off and take a look at the boot though.

 

I've bought some correct brake pads I hope, so will get them fitted when they arrive.

 

Cheers for the advice!

[themildbunch]

Same size engine as the BX Turbo diesel...go on for ever if you look after them...

 

It does sound like your thermostat needs replacing...  If it's got the alloy rather than plastic housing be extra careful trying to get the bolts out - they're an odd size and often shear... I managed to get mine out by not using a ratchet.. hitting the heads a few times, lots of plus gas and getting it nice and hot beforehand..

 

The little plastic gaiter on the pump if it's the Lucas, sounds like the one around the cold start advance switch... When it's cold the bowden cable from the thermostat housing should tighten up and close the connection while also increasing the idle speed... 

 

Not sure why it's smokey when hot..Worth doing the easy things like fuel filter first.. if it's got a Purflux housing these often suck in air around the pump at the top.. On a lucas pump this'll make the idle surge and do odd things if you can get it to start at all... I dumped mine and got a big universal one for a big screen on bio friendly filter..

 

Lucas pumps are fine on good bio - just not thick veg...  I ran mine for years like this until the pump driveshaft seal rotted and leaked all over the cambelt..