Jump to content

Strangeangel's Shite-tastic Shenanigans 12/12 NEW MOTOR - ACHIEVED.


Recommended Posts

Posted

The bowels of the reservoir, after I'd carefully waggled the plastic disc out:


dddd.thumb.jpg.bdd643fcbd5dbab6cb5d0dd338cdcada.jpg

 

 

Posted

Now the top of the reservoir is off, the filters can come out. Carefully pop that little clip off and rotate the round filter to allow it to come out:

 

dgdg.thumb.jpg.58ec5a18aa339aaf5266fe02f783f24d.jpg

 

Posted

This one didn't feel like it wanted to come off, so I proceeded very carefully, gently waggling it until it moved:

 

waggle.thumb.jpg.639331520d46e761f947625939e25219.jpg

 

 

Posted

This is handy as I need to do this to my bx before it hits the road again

Posted

Just for reference, here's the plastic disc that lives in the bottom of the reservoir.

 

disc.thumb.jpg.44c2aa3091c2fc4f1431a48ec037144a.jpg

 

 

Posted

Time for this pile of crap to do its thing... I was careful and didn't get too close with the compressed air 'cos, as dollywobbler already pointed out, the filters look very fragile and may have become brittle with age.

 

wank.thumb.jpg.657663c77ffd6683ee65e7a36eeb4d60.jpg

 

 

  • Like 3
Posted

Now to put this lot back on the car, I think! See you in a bit.

 

refit.thumb.jpg.2e60031430272f4b3189e5869c12584b.jpg

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Appreciate the LIVE FIXAGE REPORTAGE.

 

Godspeed, may your steed raise quickly and your drive remain (relatively) stain free.

  • Like 2
Posted

If you can't get it to bleed rather than dicking around priming the feed pipe blow into the small pipe that fits into the reservoir cap to 'encourage' matters.

Posted

Well, it's all back together. Here's what I have tried thus far:

 

  • I primed the feed to the pump, height lever set to High, started engine and tightened pressure release screw,
  • Tried FDB's suggestion of running for a few minutes, then opening and closing the pressure release screw.
  • Tried re-priming the pump, height leve in Low, started engine and tightened PR screw.
  • Have tried operating the (now extremely heavy!) steering at various times.
  • Nearly crashed into MOTHER_SA's motorhome when I forgot I had no brakes...

 

All to no avail, sadly.

Posted

And remember, don't use petrol with ethanol cos it will likely melt your plastic bits on an old car.

Posted

The light's going now so I'm calling it a day. I'd have liked to have seen it rise up today, but that's how it goes sometimes, eh?

 

This is one of the reasons I like having multiple vehicles - you don't have to stress about getting jobs finished so you can get to work in the morning. I am semi-incompetent, so whenever I try to do things in a rush stuff inevitably gets cocked up and/or broken.

Posted

Seriously try blowing into the reservoir; it's never failed me.

  • Like 1
Posted

Seriously try blowing into the reservoir; it's never failed me.

 

Will do for sure, my next day off is Friday so let's hope it's not raining...

 

Do you do that with the pressure release screw open and then tighten it?

  • Like 1
Posted

Apologies for the late response, but how long are you leaving it idling after closing the pressure release screw? From what I've read it can take upwards of 10-15 mins for the system to pressurise. Alternatively I found constantly opening and shutting the screw until the rear suspension began to rise worked the last time I had to depressurise the system.

  • Like 1
Posted

I remember by stripey BX refusing to rise up, at a specialist! Took at least ten minutes.

  • Like 1
Posted

Blimey, that lhm is - 43 on the 1 to 10 scale! I thought the dull green stuff in my xantia was bad, that's something else! I'd have hydraflushed the shit out of that!

 

Top work! No idea what the bx method is to rise but I found with the xm high revs for a few minutes got her risen after a blood tranfusion, and the xantia will get the same if it goes stubborn on me!

  • Like 1
Posted

Apologies for the late response, but how long are you leaving it idling after closing the pressure release screw? From what I've read it can take upwards of 10-15 mins for the system to pressurise. Alternatively I found constantly opening and shutting the screw until the rear suspension began to rise worked the last time I had to depressurise the system.

 

I was following FDB's instructions from earlier in the thread, but I will certainly try leaving it for longer on Friday when I next attempt to get the old thing to rise up again; failing that your tip on repeatedly opening/closing the screw.

 

Given the rankness of the outgoing LHM, should I repeat this process do you all think??

Posted

See how she goes. If all is well, I'd leave it. If the steering gets notchy again, then going the Hydraflush route is probably a good idea. After 1000 miles or so, have a gander at the filters and see if they look as grim again.

  • Like 2
Posted

Yea, now you've put fresh lhm in leave it now, don't waste it. Just check the filters bloody regularly.

 

Did you bleed the brakes? I bet loads of mud comes out...

  • Like 1
Posted

Did you bleed the brakes? I bet loads of mud comes out...

 

Not yet, I figured on doing that once I've got the thing to rise again!

Posted

Fired it up, tightened the pressure release screw and waited. About 10 minutes later this happened:

 

rise.jpg.5ae2e241864960a69c03316320292848.jpg

 

 

Brakes are also back, but no power steering so far.

 

  • Like 6
Posted

Is the level still ok? If it is, a few rounds of Citrobics may be in order. I'd drop it back to normal height and try going lock to lock a few times, or as far as you can get with no assistance!

  • Like 1
Posted

Fired it up, tightened the pressure release screw and waited. About 10 minutes later this happened:

 

attachicon.gifMVC-016F.JPG

 

Brakes are also back, but no power steering so far.

 

Job done then, PAS is for softies :-D

  • Like 1
Posted

Job done then, PAS is for softies :-D

 

It's sorted now, happily. I went in for a brew, had a think and decided (for no good reason) to try starting it up and moving the steering lock to lock. Got in the car, fired it up, grabbed the wheel... and the PAS was already working!

 

EDIT: just seen your post DW, looks like I was thinking along the right lines! The level is still OK, and when I go back out to put the pipework back on I shall do a few cycles of the height lever.

Posted

Forcing the steering round must have purged any old crap out of the system! Do lots of citrobatics now, bleed the brakes, then lots more citrobatics and check the filters!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...