Jump to content

'93 Mondy thread - MOT pass


egg

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the comments. I know a lot of this stuff is 'page 1' of the shitters manual, but I'm kind of enjoying going into this amount of detail and glad it isn't annoying the more seasoned forumites. I really want to get back on the road soon without the dash in bits. In general there is a lack of Mondeo restoration threads in the virtual world - so one day this might be of help to others!

 

Did you manage to get hold of the right bulbs? It would be a shame if the lenses turned yellow again.

 

I'm advised that these are the OEM ones - which should be ok - but they don't actually say they are low UV...I will buy some.

 

http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_12v_55w_h1_headlamp_bulb_f_4345856.htm

 

 

When's the raffle?

 

Here's the plan. Get the remaining jobs done. Sell my Ford Fusion. Funds will give me the cash to get the Mondy cambelt/oil leak done by a pro and the next MOT (June). Run the Mondeo as my only car May-September. Re-assess then. Could keep and rent a warm garage somewhere, could continue to use, or roffle!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Airbag light the full story...(warning dull content)

 

I have a continuously flashing airbag light the codes here (http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php?title=Airbag_Flash_Codes) mean it is almost certainly the control unit underneath the steering column. It could also be the clock spring** inside the steering wheel or the airbag itself. 

 

Interestingly I've read that a 1994 Mondeo had an expiry date of 2002 on the airbag warranty. So - it hasn't really been 'expected' to work for years!

 

I've read everything I can find about this. I have seen no convincing evidence yet that changing the control unit leads to successful resolution. I've exchanged emails with a couple of people on this, including Matt George at Practical Classics. He changed the clock spring on his - again no success. Similar stories on Talkford, locost forums(!), and the Mondeo Mk1 register on Facebook.

 

One chap even fitted a timer to make the airbag light come on for 6 seconds to get through the MOT! (Not needed, but interesting approach).

 

As posted on the MOT thread yesterday, if the airbag light doesn't come on at all, this is not an MOT fail, only an advisory under current rules.

 

I've tried unplugging the control unit and using contact cleaner - but it seemed to work for about 30 seconds and then went back into fail mode.

 

So, I think I will be uplugging the control unit and leaving it inoperable. Not ideal for safety, but some sometimes compromises are needed on old cars. Unfortunately as all Mondeos had an airbag (first UK car to fit to all models) there is no such thing as a steering wheel without an airbag that I can swap it with.

 

I could try an autoelectrican - but Matt George has tried that as well.

 

I could also take the airbag out (with battery disconnected, to avoid killing many many nuns and kittens  :shock: ) just to confirm there aren't any other obvious loose connectors anywhere.

 

**less likely as horn seems to work

post-20084-0-08365400-1457730126_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take the airbag out and then remove the clock spring, (carefully), then test it with a multi meter for resistance, move it around a bit to check it's not got a break in it that only opens up sometimes. That will at least rule that out.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What code (or not code) is it giving it again?

 

Comes on for 4 seconds, goes off for about 7-8 seconds - continuous. I might have another theory. updates to come.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok. So I started putting in the new heater controls today. Progress stopped when I found this burnt out connector - this is the one to the fan speed control. This looks to be the root cause of the heater control splintering plastic - this must have overheated. I thought it might be the control unit bulbs (see earlier in the thread), but this now looks the culprit. Question is why?

 

post-20084-0-56966200-1457793649_thumb.jpg

 

I have just run a multimeter across the battery. 12.18v (engine off)- not surprising as has been standing, 14.58v on. So that means the alternator is ok?

 

I wonder if there is a link here between the airbag light issue and this burnt out connector. Battery voltage high/low can also be a cause of the continuous light flashing.

 

This is the banner battery fitted - which does seem suitable for the car (http://www.bannerbatteryfinder.co.uk/battery_desc.aspx?id=5)

 

Could a battery change be the cause of the problems?

 

Thoughts and advice appreciated. I assume I must change that burnt out connector!

 

Do I need an electrician?

 

Another little note - it has an original Ford radio - but dated 1998 when car was 5 years old so the original was replaced. Have electrical problems plagued this car for years? Is it a Laguna 2 in disguise?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re: Ford radio, it's the '93 original as all of them have a 5-year 'warranty' of some kind on them, so all are stamped 5 years into the future if that makes sense?

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bloke on the Mondeo register on Farcebook has given this response. Looks like I need a new heater resistor and need to grease the motor as suggested by Joloke. What a bloody project this is!

 

Common fault. Just cut the plug off and use spade connectors instead. Its burnt because of the breakdown of the resistor. Also check the motor is running free as this would cause the resistor to breakdown. Just drop the motor out and either replace or white grease the bearings. Hope this helps
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The heat could be simply from a poor connection increasing resistance across the connection, or it could be from an increased amount of current through that wire and the connector is the weakest part of that circuit. Both higher resistance and higher current will generate heat.

 

Current will rise if there's some sort of short circuit, which could be from a motor breakdown.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is this bulb? From my mondeo headlight control. Probably need the whole little unit, as bulb doesn't come out easily. Not a 506ts which is a bit bigger.....

 

Has number 0593 on the side and also OL and 6 on it.

 

post-19900-0-98029100-1457837934_thumb.jpg

Ford FINIS: 6732417

Ford: 93BB-13464-CA

 

e774cb04eb7f52a4f09cc2f8c17609b2.jpg

 

I could be wrong, but I'd say those bases are B8.7D (and NOT B8.5D (tags wrong) or B8.3D (similar, but no locking ramp) as mentioned in the amnesty thread) and the bulbs are probably 1.2W (2W also available in that size)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Pillock/Eddie for your thoughts on those issues.

 

I forced out the resistor pack today that controls the fan speed (next to the fan motor - that's the next thing to check). Looks certainly like the 23 year old original and probably not resisting much any more! Another thing to replace. Original OEM on ebay is a tenner. Apparently, you can upgrade to a Mk2 mondeo version (or Mk1 Focus) as they have sealed rather than these open coils. But I'm sure any new one will outlive the car!

post-20084-0-38403800-1457870644_thumb.jpg

post-20084-0-30242200-1457870650_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dropped the blower motor too now, seems smooth and quiet when you turn it round. How 'free' should it be though - should it spin round and round when you turn it? This one moves about one revolution when you give it a spin...

 

Edit: ok the story must be this - the pollen filter was old and manky - rotten air was getting into the blower motor causing it to get stuck - which blew the thermal fuse - which led to too much current reaching the connector - which burnt it out - which led to the heater controls splintering into pieces. Classic giffer motor kind of issue. Not complaining though - if it wasn't a giffer a motor, it probably wouldn't be here...

post-20084-0-01290900-1457887723_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds too much resistance to turning to me. It should spin with little resistance.

 

My suspicion is that the motor is on its way out although not yet siezed. So it will be drawing more current (causing the resistor coils to heat up further) and also turning more slowly (less cooling air to the resistors). The heat is transferred to the connector, melting it, until eventually the thermal fuse blows. I tend to replace them as I have plenty in stock (only pence each) but a tenner for the whole resistor/thermal fuse unit is hardly breaking the bank!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that's it Mat. I just hope it is!

 

I have asked the breaker I've used before to see if he has a smooth running blower motor - if it isn't a silly price, I'll replace my one. Brand new ones seem £80+ so will try and avoid that if poss.

 

I hope when I get to the end of all this the heater matrix works  :shock:

 

Should also add greengartside is kindly going to look out some odds and ends for me next week as well. Love this autoshite community.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The motor may well be rebuildable - worth a try maybe? I've rescued a couple (none Mondeo) just by stripping and lubricating. Admittedly one did become stiff a couple of years later but at least got more life out of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good idea - I thought I'd strip this one down anyway (if I can work it out) and either re-fit or sell depending on how it compares to a replacement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a teaser.

Next to the headlamp switch there's a blanking plate. There's a blanking plate on every single Mk1 Mondeo I've ever been in. Round.

My bosses old Ghia X leather cruise fancy stereo fuel computer every option ticked model had a blanking plate.

The ones in the brochures all have blanking plates, despite them being posh fully optioned models.

 

What on earth is that hole made for??!? It's been bugging me for 10 bloody years.

Don't know if this has been answered but I removed the blanking plug on FATHA's Mondeo and it is apparently a headlamp adjust device of some sort, used in Europe. There were markings of a headlamp and some numbers.

 

ada8f0563f10756eded3b75f5a37548d.jpg

 

This was FATHA's one - bought for £7995 on his birthday in May 1997, drove it to Manchester the same day to show my auntie and uncle - had a holiday at Blackpool too.

 

It was the first manual car I learned to drive in, aged 13 - driving it up and down our long driveway loads of times.

 

Was used up until September 2005 when dad cooked the head gasket and then seized the engine up as he tried to nurse it home - he recalled that it was making a 'chuffing' noise and then it revved up to 4K and then died and wouldn't restart.

 

I went out to it after it had been recovered home and the engine just span over like it had slipped the belt.

 

R.I.P awesome Mondeo.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes - I've had the headlight control panel out - and the white control unit behind backs on to both the light switch and the blanking plate. So clearly it was designed for something right from the start - and is even present on my base 1993 model.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This one has got me quite giddy. Feel that Mondeo love. 36k miles!

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262335513242

 

That's lovely!!! The first owner must have felt like the dog's nads rolling that Ghia out of the showroom, esp. when it was a new model!

 

Rare to see a colour like that these days. My first car was an Escort in Ford Silica Gold - sort of a rubbish rose-gold which was not exactly masculine, nor easy on the eyes with the pairing of brown plastic bumpers and brown not-quite-velour-but-not-sackcloth fabric. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Superb. Amazing nick, including the bumpers. No evidence of 'normal' Mondeo problems from the MOT history - but then again, it has barely been run in!

 

In a beautiful part of the world too (Askrigg in Yorkshire)

 

If I made any mod to my mond it would be adding those front fogs.

 

About the only visible faults are the rubber scuttle trim hanging off and a tiny bit of yellowing light on the offside...apart from the obvious wing mirror paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

100_0160.jpg

 

 

Here's mine, somewhere in southern Spain, quite a few years ago.  Bought when it was just months old and sold it on 155,000 miles.  Never put a foot wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...