Project What has two seats, a mid-mounted 6 cylinder engine, and a turbo? Going solar

[Stinkwheel]

For the first time in nearly 100,000 miles I've had to call out recovery. I'm stuck near Northampton with a failed clutch
The gearbox arm is moving when I press the pedal, but it's not disengaging. Not sure what's the most likely cause at the moment. Annoyingly it's not the cable, as I carry a spare!

Had I been around and not actually in wales I could have assisted or at least offered tea. What is over this way that needs collecting? And would it be helpful if it could be brought to wales?

[mat_the_cat]

Thanks for the offer, but it's not quite that simple...

I have some lengths of timber to collect from Corby, and a differential to collect from Luton, but I also have to drop off the old diff for exchange. The plan is to repeat the journey on Thursday in the iLoad, but do it all in a day rather than the 'luxury' of an overnight stop.

[Stinkwheel]

Thanks for the offer, but it's not quite that simple...
I have some lengths of timber to collect from Corby, and a differential to collect from Luton, but I also have to drop off the old diff for exchange. The plan is to repeat the journey on Thursday in the iLoad, but do it all in a day rather than the 'luxury' of an overnight stop.

You and your complicated schemes


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[mat_the_cat]

Stuff now collected/dropped off/whatever, and a parcel of goodies has arrived.  No actual progress whatsoever, but shiny bits help the mood slightly.

Clutch kit, spigot bearing, rear crank seal (new, improved design apparently, complete with housing), and gear linkage bellows.

[mat_the_cat]

I got the gearbox out this morning - a fairly straightforward job being RWD, and plenty of space around it. No seized fasteners either.

The puzzling thing is I can't see an obvious fault with the old clutch. The diaphragm spring is a little worn, but nothing has broken as such. I didn't inspect the release bearing, so it's stuck me afterwards that if this has collapsed it may not be allowing the clutch to release.

I'm going to be away from home a fair bit this week so progress will likely be limited, but it's half a step closer.

[Zelandeth]

Yeah, my money is on something having gone well awry with the release bearing. 

Either that or it's some utterly freak thing like a spring coming adrift and managing to wedge itself between the two halves - but you'd have expected some indication something had happened then as it would have made a dreadful noise.

[twosmoke300]

Release bearing punched through the arm or the arm broken where the pivot ball is 

[mat_the_cat]

Definitely not the latter, as I wondered the same! It *felt* as though I was still compressing the spring when pushing on the pedal (i.e. foot action felt totally normal) so must admit I only glanced at the arm & release bearing before removing the clutch, and bringing it into daylight for a proper look.

[Talbot]

Presumably you didn't feel like clutchless changing all the way back to Wales then?  Would have been quite a nasty journey.

A failure to disengage is not a common fault.  One thing to check is that the nose bearing in the end of the crank hasn't failed, meaning the clutch was actually working fine, but drive was being transmitted straight from the crank to the input shaft.  If it's a needle-roller bearing and the cage has broken up, it's a distinct possibility.

[andy18s]

17 hours ago, twosmoke300 said:

Release bearing punched through the arm or the arm broken where the pivot ball is 

The good old Landrover weak spot. Any new clutch going had this arm replaced after having a penny washer welded on as reinforcement..

[mat_the_cat]

3 hours ago, Talbot said:

Presumably you didn't feel like clutchless changing all the way back to Wales then?  Would have been quite a nasty journey.

A failure to disengage is not a common fault.  One thing to check is that the nose bearing in the end of the crank hasn't failed, meaning the clutch was actually working fine, but drive was being transmitted straight from the crank to the input shaft.  If it's a needle-roller bearing and the cage has broken up, it's a distinct possibility.

I just couldn't manage a single gear change...it simply does not release a gear (whatever the speed, and keeping the load off). Other vehicles I've managed it as occasional practice for such an eventuality.

I had wondered about the bearing in the crank, as it's needle roller and looking quite ropey. But had discounted that as I was able to stall the engine on the brakes, so hadn't thought it would have been able to transfer that much torque?

[mat_the_cat]

Thinking about it, that does make a lot of sense. It would explain why the clutch action was totally unchanged, and the gearbox was an absolute bugger to get off. Normally once they're off the dowels it's easy, but I had to resort to various pry bars...

Still surprising if it could transfer enough torque to stall the engine, but I guess a look at how mullered the input shaft is will tell me! I only thought of it (and quickly discounted it) *after* I'd got the clutch off and into the light, so didn't check the gearbox.

[Talbot]

I'd say you have your smoking gun there.  The gearbox being an arse to remove is a big indicator that the nose bearing is shot.

[mat_the_cat]

Hmmm. It looks like the newness has worn off somewhat. 

How that wasn't making a noise beforehand I don't know! The good news is that the input shaft appears undamaged, although with a slight wear lip between where the rollers have been sitting, and the unworn portion.

[rusty_vw_man]

Looks like you’ve found the problem! If the input shaft is now lipped, is there any room to put the replacement bearing further into the housing so it runs on a fresh section of shaft? There is on it’s baby brother (T25) but it’s been over 20 years since I last had an LT gearbox in front of me. 

[mat_the_cat]

On 3/21/2023 at 9:09 PM, rusty_vw_man said:

Looks like you’ve found the problem! If the input shaft is now lipped, is there any room to put the replacement bearing further into the housing so it runs on a fresh section of shaft?

I don't think so, as it sits at the bottom of the recess in the crank. I've yet to try the new bearing on the input shaft, but it's an almost imperceptible lip so not too worried.

I got back home this evening and had a couple of hours trying to get the old bearing out. The usual trick of packing with grease and hammering a bar down the centre didn't work, as the grease couldn't pressurise it from behind. I did try a concrete anchor bolt, but it wouldn't expand quite far enough to provide sufficient grip.

So I had to resort to destruction. The wall of the bearing was very thin, so I was able to crack it in a few places by hammering a screwdriver behind it.

Eventually it broke up enough that I could pull it out.

Hoping to make actual progress tomorrow on putting shiny new parts back on!

[mat_the_cat]

I wanted to replace the rear crank seal while I had it all apart, as it seemed like it was weeping slightly, and I've replaced most of the other seals. I had a choice between the original standard lip seal, or an improved design (supposed to be better suited to modern oils) and is moulded into the housing. I went for the latter:

There's an additional seal on the reverse face so a gasket is not required. Dead easy to fit with the plastic guide fitting over the end of the crank - the only bit I wasn't comfortable with was sliding it in dry, as per the instructions. 

Let's see if it's as good as claimed!

Next was the spigot bearing, which I tapped into place with an aluminium drift. The flywheel could then be bolted up, with threadlock. 

The new clutch was fitted, making sure I could still see the words GEARBOX SIDE afterwards!

All aligned correctly...

...and a new release bearing clipped to the arm. I had a good check for any cracks or wear, given the mileage but all seemed good. I did briefly consider fatigue life, but given this is still the original clutch, it suggests that it hasn't done *that* many actuations.

The gearbox is now in place, but a fair few bits and pieces need doing before I can test. I may have a go at the clutch cable later tonight but we'll see...

[Back_For_More]

Bloody hell. - fast work.... I'll hold up my hand - I did snigger slightly at not being comfortable sliding it in dry. 

Gnetleman to the last...... 

I don't see am alignment tool - or is it all in line just bolting it up? 

[mat_the_cat]

I did realise after I wrote that, but left it in as it made me smile anyway!

I do use an alignment tool, just a cheap Draper universal one, unless on an XU in which case I have an old gearbox input shaft.

[mat_the_cat]

All back together now, and seems to be working fine albeit I haven't actually driven it more than a few feet!

This is just before the undertray went back on, hopefully won't need to go underneath for a while. Still need to lock the clutch cable adjustment but I'm waiting till I've driven it properly, to make sure the biting point is the same as I'm used to over the last 100k miles.

[Zelandeth]

19 hours ago, mat_the_cat said:

All back together now, and seems to be working fine albeit I haven't actually driven it more than a few feet!

This is just before the undertray went back on, hopefully won't need to go underneath for a while. Still need to lock the clutch cable adjustment but I'm waiting till I've driven it properly, to make sure the biting point is the same as I'm used to over the last 100k miles.

Still surprised it's cable operated on something this size.  

[chodweaver]

Yours has an undertray?

[mat_the_cat]

4 hours ago, Zelandeth said:

Still surprised it's cable operated on something this size.  

Likewise. There's some aspects of the engineering which seem quite advanced for a 70s van (parabolic rear leaf springs, and independent double wishbone front suspension), yet others which seem curiously old-tech.

27 minutes ago, chodweaver said:

Yours has an undertray?

Yes, although I've had to fabricate the linking piece between the front and rear halves.

[Zelandeth]

We really do need to get our two side by side for some technical comparison and properly nerdy discussion over some of the design quirks of the pair some time.  

[mat_the_cat]

I'd be up for that! Sounds like an ideal evening TBH, but then I am a sad geek...

I've been out in the LT this afternoon, and all is well albeit with a few differences to how it drove before. First thing is how light the clutch feels - I keep worrying the cable has snapped as there is so little resistance to the pedal. Although it never felt unduly difficult before compared to other vehicles, it's definitely improved now.

Second thing is the gearchange. I've greased all the linkages, so that's probably a factor but previously I could never rush a change for fear of beating the synchromesh. I'd put this down to the gearbox getting on a bit, and the 'commercial' nature of the way it drives. But now I think there may have been a bit of drag previously, even with the clutch disengaged. So the 'box would take a good while to slow down between gears; now I can shift significantly more quickly.

Lastly, no photos but I've finally replaced the front mudflaps. An easy but satisfying little job. We're due to go away on holiday in a couple of weeks so hopefully I'll have full confidence in it by then.

[mat_the_cat]

Think I've got my money's worth from these!

New ones were a slightly different bracket design, but look the same once fitted.

And after driving round for a few weeks without one, it's clear they do stop a fair bit of shite being thrown all over the underside!

[mat_the_cat]

A few weeks and several hundred miles later all is well. We're having a mini break in the Lake District, before things get too busy.

We've been staying in the van partly...

...but splashed out on an Airbnb for a short while.

Which had a nice spot to sit and watch the sun go down...

Starting to get a bit more confidence in the vehicle back...nothing to worry about that I can detect so far! Although it's a little bigger than ideal for some of the lanes.

[High Jetter]

When you said mini break, I was worried you meant the floor

[Tepper]

9 hours ago, mat_the_cat said:

Ahhh, nothing says 'holiday' like a shoplifted bottle of wine!

[mat_the_cat]

I'm investigating the leisure battery charging system on this at the moment, as it seems to be charging more effectively from the on-board battery charger (25 A) than the alternator (90 A). So I've bought a fairly cheap meter to monitor things. I've already established some voltage drop over the split charge wiring, and a lower than expected charging voltage when measured at the starter battery.

Comparing the accuracy to a calibrated meter I was pretty happy especially considering the price I paid, but even happier with my Draper meter, again fairly cheap! With the charge monitor it's showing only 3 A or so charging from the alternator so far. Although if I turn on the AC (~50 A load) it will still charge with a similar current.

It may be that it's just because the leisure batteries are almost full, so will be interesting to see the charge rate once they are depleted.

In other news it went through the MOT fine the other week.

The uneven tyre wear is something which has always happened, despite taking it to several places for the alignment to be checked. I can only think that something is happening dynamically to upset the alignment, which is not picked up on a static check.

I'm fairly sure there is no longer an oil leak - certainly there is no noticeable drops or need to top up. But the pinholed sump has spread a LOT of oil over the underside, which I think is what they've picked up on!