cms206 Posted May 30, 2015 Posted May 30, 2015 Using an LT as a camper is so mainstream... Bucketeer, John F, forddeliveryboy and 8 others 11
Inspector Morose Posted May 31, 2015 Posted May 31, 2015 Fuck, I'd forgotten all about them! What about the dodge with the demountable bus and lorry body from a few years after?
rml2345 Posted May 31, 2015 Posted May 31, 2015 ^ The mad thing they used on Arran at one point? I'm sure that still exists somewhere. That LT is fab and makes a welcome change from flocks of VW Transporterists.
mat_the_cat Posted June 14, 2015 Author Posted June 14, 2015 The LT40s had a beam axle on leaf springs at the front - obviously heavier duty but seemed a bit of an effort to go to for such a small increase in payload, most of which would be over the back axle anyway. It did make for a smaller turning circle though. It was the same on the LT45s, 50s and I think there was an LT55 too, so I guess the production costs were shared over all the bigger variants? Mine's just ticked over the quarter-million mile mark: Although annoyingly has developed a problem - not with the vehicle but with the fridge. It's not getting very cold when running from gas, and we have 5 days before we go away in it! Lacquer Peel and Bucketeer 2
Felly Magic Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 LT55 wasn't sold here in the UK generally, BUT it did form the base of the Optare Citypacer, with a raised driving position. A friend of mine has just bought one to restore, not the fastest or most refined in the world, and few survive mat_the_cat 1
John F Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 You have a rev counter in your LT... I R WELL JELLOUS! Any idea if it can be retro-fitted to the non-turbo 2.4 6-pot diesel? Any info, including where it would pick up its signal from, gladly received .
mat_the_cat Posted June 14, 2015 Author Posted June 14, 2015 It can be retrofitted to any diesel, IF you can find one! It takes its signal from the alternator W terminal, and all the wiring is present into the dashboard loom, as it's needed for the unusually complicated oil pressure warning light system. (Basically two sensors, one which is looked at below 2k rpm, and the other above). So pretty much plug 'n play, although the PCB foil is slightly different but easily modified. John F 1
Danblez Posted June 15, 2015 Posted June 15, 2015 Can you get the fridge out easily enough? If so turn it upside down for an hour or two. Will probably sort the running on gas issue.
mat_the_cat Posted June 15, 2015 Author Posted June 15, 2015 I thought that trick was to sort out any 'settling' in the cooling side of things, and wouldn't that fact it's fine on electricity prove it's OK? Worth a try though - I'm planning to pop it out and have a look at the gas burner anyway.
mat_the_cat Posted June 16, 2015 Author Posted June 16, 2015 Fridge now sorted I think Turned out the burner was partly blocked, so gas was escaping via an easier path down the side of the burner tube, burning off but not heating the heat exchanger. After a good scrub with a toothbrush and a blast of compressed air it seemed to be running well. Left it cooling overnight so will see what temperature it gets down to!
mat_the_cat Posted June 28, 2015 Author Posted June 28, 2015 Well, the fridge is now working perfectly which is just as well given the temperatures we've driven through! 35 °C at the moment with a heatwave forecast to hit on Monday Still, at least we're at the house now; 1200 miles without any real problems. The only issue was on one of the prolonged mountain climbs, the temperature gauge did climb towards the top of the dial and the red light started flashing. Turned the heater on (which was fun in those temperatures!) and it was fine. However I'm not really worried by that, as a month or so ago I replaced the gauge sender/electric water pump switch with a pattern part, and ever since then the needle has both sat higher on the gauge, but also moved around a lot more. Previously it was pretty stable and never budged over half way regardless of ambient temperature or load, but even in the UK the needle was all over the place. So I'm suspecting the thermistor used has a different resistance/temperature curve and gives more of a change in resistance for a given change in temperature. In most cars that wouldn't be a problem and would actually give a truer picture of what the engine is doing, but on the LTs the temperature warning light is driven from the same sender. Might have to bite the bullet and splash out on the OE part... Bucketeer, scruff, forddeliveryboy and 3 others 6
mat_the_cat Posted August 28, 2015 Author Posted August 28, 2015 Update time - we're going away next week and I've decided to fit an awning. Given the summer we've had (not a single good i.e. hot and dry day so far) it's a lot easier if you can have the door open and not get rain blowing in, plus we can dry the dog under it before she gets in and soaks everything! I know the shiter solution would probably to knock one up from an old tarpaulin, but Mrs_the_cat paid for it so I'm not arguing... Not tried opening it yet - it's using Sikaflex and screws to hold it on to the fibreglass roof, so best to wait until it's cured before stressing it I think. Yes, I know it needs a wash! UltraWomble and Lacquer Peel 2
mat_the_cat Posted September 6, 2015 Author Posted September 6, 2015 We've been away a couple of times this week in the van...finding some great places to camp First of all in the woods around Lake Vrynwy: And then on Angelsey overlooking South Stack: This was a tad windy, but we dropped off in the end - only to be woken at 2:30 am by some guy asking for jump leads! Dog went crazy thinking we were under attack and the adrenaline surge took hours to die down. Hence very little sleep Skizzer, Vince70, UltraWomble and 1 other 4
Felly Magic Posted September 6, 2015 Posted September 6, 2015 This belongs to my mate's Mrs. LT breadvanshite awaiting restoration. Was new as a badermatic, but at some point a 5 speed manual has been bodged in badly. No handbrake on it, and the front end needs a bit of surgery, plus a big hole where the rear corner bumper should be. Sounded fruity when the exhaust fell off Lacquer Peel, mat_the_cat, oldcars and 1 other 4
Lacquer Peel Posted September 6, 2015 Posted September 6, 2015 That's disgusting, great work! I've been desperate for a jump start enough times but would draw the line at waking someone up at 2:30am in a remote location.
mat_the_cat Posted September 6, 2015 Author Posted September 6, 2015 Sounded fruity when the exhaust fell off Pretty sure I've posted this before, but any excuse I've been desperate for a jump start enough times but would draw the line at waking someone up at 2:30am in a remote location. Yeah, think I would just call the AA or a mate. Annoyingly my brain was trying to think of ways to help him even after he'd gone - I could have taken out one of the leisure batteries and a bit of wiring, but would have taken a while and not exactly a life and death situation! I don't bother with jump leads in the van, as I could jump start myself if needed just by closing the main split charge relay contacts. Lacquer Peel 1
Felly Magic Posted September 6, 2015 Posted September 6, 2015 That is exactly how it sounded, except louder as the engine covers are removed in the saloon as well!
mat_the_cat Posted September 13, 2015 Author Posted September 13, 2015 Buggeration. 300 miles this weekend and 5 litres of coolant No visible sign of loss, but the oil is very watery. No emulsion (yet) but I expect it will as things cool. The question is, what has failed and how can I prove it? There is a slim chance the oil/water heat exchanger is leaking, but I really can't see how that would allow coolant into the oil but not the other way round. So that to me suggests coolant leaking into an area of oil at low pressure, such as a return oilway in the HG. I can bypass the heat exchanger coolant pipes, to see if the loss stops, however I can't really see it being that. But the question remains that if I take the head off and no gasket failure is obvious, can I prove the head is OK? Would getting it pressure tested only check the combustion chambers? I'm confident there's no leakage in this respect - no pressurisation when I undo the cap. Around 8 years ago I was losing maybe a litre every 1000 miles, and I put in K Seal as a short term 'fix' as I was short on cash...wondering if it's the same failure again. No visible loss then either! Back then I'd read that the heads are prone to cracking, so feared the worst.
Ghosty Posted September 14, 2015 Posted September 14, 2015 I think Mat has enough RV8 powered cars already...
mat_the_cat Posted October 6, 2015 Author Posted October 6, 2015 Never enough, but I think the 6 pot suits the character of the van well. There's just something about the sound of it, especially at idle, that just sounds so 'right'. Anyway, I've (eventually) made the decision to pop the head off and take a look. It'll get whatever it needs, which I won't know until it's in bits. I bypassed the oil cooler at the weekend, wondering if by some chance the lower pressure but thinner coolant was making its way into the oil system, but no improvement. So started a stripdown only to realise I need a triple square driver for the head bolts. No rush I suppose, I'm still waiting for a genuine VW HG from Germany...might be quicker to buy one while I am over there in 10 days time!
wuvvum Posted October 6, 2015 Posted October 6, 2015 Good luck. The engines in these are such fun* to work on. mat_the_cat 1
mat_the_cat Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 No problems so far, apart from finding someone who knew what a triple square it actually was. "Do you mean a Torx bit?" "You must mean a spline drive, see, this fits". Yes, a spline drive will fit but probably round off when I am heaving on it. Anyway, got one in the end although I've not removed the belts yet, so the head is still on. Couple of photos below: Plenty of room to work in! I was a bit concerned about the manifold nuts after seeing them, but all cracked off beautifully UltraWomble and John F 2
oldcars Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Thats about as much rooms as the Reliant engine bay. Hope all goes well. Doing the hg on mine too.
dollywobbler Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Good luck with the operation. I love this thing.
mat_the_cat Posted October 14, 2015 Author Posted October 14, 2015 Well, the head is now off! At first I couldn't see anything wrong, but there are the initial signs of HG failure on pots 5 and 6. Plus there's a bit of a ridge around where the fire ring was on all cylinders. Also the surface is generally a bit pitted so needs a skim, but it's very flat so probably only a few thou. BUT, the valve guides a bit worn, so how far do I go...? New guides plus fitting are going to be getting on for £200...they're not massively worn but there is detectable play in the valves when you pull them out. Don't really have much of a feel for what is OK, however gut feeling says that I'd better do it than not. Lastly, there are cracks in the head - which sounds terminal but apparently 'normal' and only a cause for concern if they're over 0.5 mm. Mine aren't, but even so don't exactly give me a nice warm feeling! Asimo and Lacquer Peel 2
Felly Magic Posted October 15, 2015 Posted October 15, 2015 Bumhats. Good luck getting the grumbly beast going again
John F Posted October 15, 2015 Posted October 15, 2015 mat_the_cat, on 14 Oct 2015 - 8:55 PM, said:mat_the_cat, on 14 Oct 2015 - 8:55 PM, said:Well, the head is now off! DSC_60441.JPG At first I couldn't see anything wrong, but there are the initial signs of HG failure on pots 5 and 6. Plus there's a bit of a ridge around where the fire ring was on all cylinders. Also the surface is generally a bit pitted so needs a skim, but it's very flat so probably only a few thou. BUT, the valve guides a bit worn, so how far do I go...? New guides plus fitting are going to be getting on for £200...they're not massively worn but there is detectable play in the valves when you pull them out. Don't really have much of a feel for what is OK, however gut feeling says that I'd better do it than not. Lastly, there are cracks in the head - which sounds terminal but apparently 'normal' and only a cause for concern if they're over 0.5 mm. Mine aren't, but even so don't exactly give me a nice warm feeling! What's the option for getting a donor engine from a Volvo? (apart from the very real risk of being beaten to death by enraged sctsh ppl, of course) Lacquer Peel 1
mat_the_cat Posted October 17, 2015 Author Posted October 17, 2015 Well, I'm already down £150 on gaskets etc, and I would prefer to repair rather than replace. Just that it might turn out to be more pricey than first thought! The volvo version has different ancillaries but easily swapped over though.
chodweaver Posted October 17, 2015 Posted October 17, 2015 Don't forget to swap the sump back, if you go for that option Sent from my GT-S5830i using Tapatalk 2
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now