RoadworkUK Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 It's like a 2015 Citroen ZX in there! Welcome to the future! beko1987 1
Pillock Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 Shame it wouldn't fit in the square hole at the back but looks a nice install! Well done on the multimetering success beko1987 1
beko1987 Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 I did look at ones that might have done, but they didnt have the voltage thing or outside sensor. Plus, I'd still have to have the clock cabletied under the dash somewhere for the central locking to work, possibly! Means I can put my lighter down the side of it and it wont dissapear into the passenger footwell when I turn out of the work car park hopefully!
beko1987 Posted March 7, 2015 Author Posted March 7, 2015 Well, I finally bloody did it, and ordered some stuffs. Had a free day today, so got cracking whilst the sun was out! Up on stands and got the wheels off. Started with the drivers side, and the bottom ball joint which was an advisory on the MOT. The retaining bolt came off fairly easily, and with a few smacks with the persuasion tool it parted from the hub. 3 bolts came off easily and the ball joint housing slid out of the bottom arm Old one was floppy as fuck, and moved up and down alot too New one looks considerably better New one on and all bolted up Onto the track rod end now, and immediatly there was an issue, I dont own a 19mm spanner, and that's just what I needed. Thankfully 2 molegrips did the job and again, fairly easily the trackrod end came off, equally floppy and generally shagged out Back on roughly in the same place as the old one Job done, it was back on with the wheel. Brakes look very good this side still, so did nothing there. Onto the passenger side! Equally shagged bottom balljoint (wasnt knocking yet, but it was probably very very close) Had to modify both track rod ends, the entre splines span with the nut, so I dremeled a groove in the top of each with my £8 ebay dremel clone, so I could hold it with a screwdriver whilst spannering the nut up. Is this normal? and the passenger side was done too. Everything came apart very easily, I suspect it's been apart before though! Wheel on, and the mechanicals on the front are done! I drained the oil next, which has been in about 11k if the dymo label on the oil filter is to be believed. had to fish the sump plug out though New oil filter I fitted the oil filter, then got distracted and took the intercooler off to have a look underneath All looks fairly dry, not 100%, but pretty good It is leaking oil from somewhere though, the lower rear of the block is oily. Never drips though, so not quite sure where thats coming from, and the oil levels never dropped by alot I presume these are the injectors? Was looking for the leakoff pipes, and I think I founf them but they were very very hard, almost like metal not rubber Shiney Popped that all back together and opened the fuel filter housing I bought this fuel filter a week after getting the car but never fitted it. It's fitted now, the old one was starting to go black at the base but was pretty clean otherwise All that back together, I filled her with oil and fired her up. The idle is slightly quieter, hoping a good blast to work on the m40 on monday settles it down. The dipstick doesnt fit in the housing, just wobbles about. I can feel a very slight breeze from the gaps around it too from the engine Under the bonnet done, I went and had a sandwich, cup of tea and a fag, and moved on to the rear Pads were fucking low Excitedly I fitted a new disk, and immediatly realised they are the wrong fucking ones. The centre hole is too small so it doesnt sit on the hub. Bastard I swore some more, and fitted the old disc and new pads, then cleaned the disc up to get my greasy fingerprints off The day went downhill from here. The passenger side caliper is in bad condition. Both slider boots are perished away, so the slider pistons arent covered by rubber. Plus the whole thing was seized, and wouldnt slide on the slidey bolts. Had it apart, greased it all up and got it moving again so I could fit the new pads. I think the next thing I need to buy are new calipers, as the drivers side has a snapped bleed nipple, and the passenger side is shagged, I wont get a rebuild kit, it's just not worth it. Should last a few months anyway, and cant be any worse than it was. On the MOT, when matey put it on the rollers just freewheeling the machine picked up resistance on the passenger side! Went for a quick test drive and all the knocking coming from the front is gone! It's so eerily quiet! Doesnt feel any faster/looser, but I only went a mile up to a big roundabout which always made it feel like something was gonna fall off, and back home again. Will see what it's really like on monday morning! Now I have the joy of finding calipers. Ebay ones ok? or should I try second hand and get a rebuild kit? rears bodged up with old discs and new pads, hopefully the pads will clean the discs up a bit or something
Grundig Posted March 7, 2015 Posted March 7, 2015 Had to modify both track rod ends, the entre splines span with the nut, so I dremeled a groove in the top of each with my £8 ebay dremel clone, so I could hold it with a screwdriver whilst spannering the nut up. Is this normal? If you put the jack under the ball joint & lift it slightly, that will make the taper grip & stop it spinning KruJoe 1
beko1987 Posted March 7, 2015 Author Posted March 7, 2015 Bollocks! Didn't think of that! Oh well, I didn't even shatter a cut off disc which I was fully expecting! Eventually it did grip and I got the ratchet on and nipped it up tightly
beko1987 Posted May 8, 2015 Author Posted May 8, 2015 Things to possibly look at this weekend: The idle speed which seems to have jumped from 500 to 1100... This looks helpful: http://www.pug306.net/index.php?pageid=boschtuningBabywipe the front wiper blade as it's smearing like shitMaybe give her a Hoover outCheck the coolant and oil Maybe... After much pondering, I have decided to join a Pug 306 forum and try to resolve my issue with month by month repairs. Hopefully by September, we will get our bonuses at work and I will be at a stage where the only thing left to do is a rear beam, and I'll treat myself to one of the poland jobs. OR, if we don't get a bonus again... I;ll raid £200 from my premium bonds. Let's do this* *unless something else bloody crops up in which case there's not much point when I could get a new rear beam with a whole complete car wrapped around it.
mat_the_cat Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 If you put the jack under the ball joint & lift it slightly, that will make the taper grip & stop it spinning Or (if the joint is facing downwards) spin a normal nut onto it to seat the taper, then replace with the nylock. Of course, I only realised this after spending ages making a clamp to hold it all together... beko1987 1
beko1987 Posted May 8, 2015 Author Posted May 8, 2015 I spent 45 minutes dremeling a slot in each for a screwdriver... Who feels silly now? Bloody jack was sat there not doing anything the whole time... mat_the_cat 1
alf892 Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 I bet your hacksaw was watching with a knowing smile too...... mat_the_cat and Grundig 2
beko1987 Posted May 16, 2015 Author Posted May 16, 2015 Ended up on my own today, so had a look at my car I couldnt sleep in that... Immediatly found the cause of all my rear end problems, hope it's fixed now Some rubbish I found my trusty steed (that could use a new motor itself) that is 5 years older than the car it cleaned And got to work! Decided to test my bed setup and found these behind the seat trim I bought it from Heathfield! Needs 3 duvets behind me to fill the gap until the rear seats but it's not too bad tbh I'll put my bag or something in the front footwell to bring my feet up Drivers side now Vacuuming done, I grabbed these and cleaned all the glass inside and out (the windscreen is see through again!) and all the inside plastics Interior done, I moved to the boot and put the spare wheel and cage back underneath. I then possibly worked out why my cars been down on power recently Anyone know if a normal zx 1.9td exhaust will fit or do I need a volcane one? Is it weldable or can I buy some magic crap to put on it for the intrim that isn't gungum cos that's fucking shit I found... I found a random pipe under there that doesnt go anywhere and 2 connectors cable tied to the rear beam and again not going anywhere I found a sticker Then remembered I'd seen an even better sticker in the man drawer the other day Someone gave us some Meriva front blades that they found from an old car, and since Amy doesnt need front blades and I do I nabbed one. Is only a little bit too big, but my field of vision has improved alot... Job done, she can sit until we get back from Devon now! Shep Shepherd and oldcars 2
beko1987 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Posted June 20, 2015 Right, now I have some money coming that's older than me (deposited 6 ,months before I was born looking at the dates), I need to get straight on what bits I need... Anyone able to confirm that I would need: 2 of these:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-ZX-Rear-Axle-Subframe-Mounting-Bushes-Left-Right-513169-513170-/251270812591?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a80e853af 2 of these:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-XSARA-ZX-REAR-SUBFRAME-MOUNTING-BUSHES-X-2-TWO-/250740051858?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AZX&hash=item3a61458f92 and I may as well get 2 of these:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Rear-Gas-Shock-Absorber-2pcs-Citroen-Ford-Peugeot-Honda-Mazda-Subaru-Renault-/371326478719?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AZX&hash=item5674c8697f because the ones fitted look pretty fucked and old. Anything else I should renew whilst I'm under there? I'm praying that new rubbers will sort the clonking noise, and the rear beam isn't actually that fucked... Also, I need to play a game of ebay parts bingo with the exhaust, as I can't find anything as cheap anywhere else... So http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-Xsara-N1-Xsara-Estate-N2-CN348E-Klarius-Exhaust-Center-Box-Section-/400555580425?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Car+Make%3ACitro%C3%ABn%7CModel%3AZX%7CCars+Year%3A1994%7CPlat_Gen%3AN2%7CCars+Type%3A1.9+TD&hash=item5d42f91c09 More expensive than I thought... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-ZX-1-9TD-XUD9TE-92bhp-HBK-91-96-Rear-Exhaust-Silencer-Back-Box-/131263759560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Car+Make%3ACitro%C3%ABn%7CModel%3AZX%7CCars+Year%3A1994%7CPlat_Gen%3AN2%7CCars+Type%3A1.9+TD&hash=item1e8fee04c8 one of these as the current exhaust is welded together http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-ZX-1-9-KLARIUS-Pipe-Connector-exhaust-system-93-97-ba2c-/361311228620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Car+Make%3ACitro%C3%ABn%7CModel%3AZX%7CCars+Year%3A1994%7CPlat_Gen%3AN2%7CCars+Type%3A1.9+TD&hash=item541fd3d2cc and however many of these I need (need to get under and count/start the plusgas treatment...) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-2x-Sealey-Universal-Exhaust-Rubber-Mount-Mounting-Hanger-Brackets-Pair-EX02-/371084608304?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item56665dc330
ruffgeezer Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 I'm pretty certain I have a brand new rear silencer in the garage, and I'll stick my neck out and say you probably only really need the front axle mounts, not the rears or the shocks. beko1987 1
beko1987 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Posted June 20, 2015 Ooh that would be great if possible, still need to pony up for the calipers too! Was only thinking of replacing all the bushes as ill have access to them all when lowering the beam (wont I?) shocks too, there doesnt seem to be much damping from the rear end, and for £30 when I have to half remove them anyway... Of course im blindly hoping no bolts snap off too etc...
ruffgeezer Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 Yeah you do one side at a time, drop the rear mount off of the axle then take off the axle to mounting bolts, then go under the seats/carpet for the shell to mounting nuts. I'll check tomorrow if I get a chance. beko1987 1
Lacquer Peel Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 A blown exhaust doesn't make any difference to the performance of diesels, just makes them noisy.
mouseflakes Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 Don't you think you should dispose of that corpse? That would free up some space. beko1987, Lacquer Peel, 320touring and 1 other 4
ShiteRider Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 What's Lou Ferrigno doing in your car?Whatever you do, don't make him angry......... You wouldn't like him when he's angry. 500tops 1
beko1987 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Posted June 20, 2015 A blown exhaust doesn't make any difference to the performance of diesels, just makes them noisy.ah thats interesting, the only experience of duff exhausts i have is on petrols. Plus the last time i ignored a blow the whole fucking thing fell out on me on the way home... And it was a squeeze passing the emissions on the last mot, would that be caused by a hole in the zorst on a derv?
beko1987 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Posted June 20, 2015 I havent changed them. They look ok though, will confirm with a picture at some point though. The other motivation for the exhaust is doesnt it have to come off to lower the beam? Given the centre section and back box are snotted together that could prove tricky... So a new ezhaust would sort that issue out and future proof it all, its not horrific but is a bit manky in places. Should i be looking elsewhere for my emissions issue? Or did i not cane it hard enough to the test? Its only 3 miles from work, and i go at lunchtime normally so shes probably still cold whwn she gets there!
Richard Posted June 21, 2015 Posted June 21, 2015 I always take the air filter element out when presenting a diesel for an MOT, and try to take it on a cold, damp day (not difficult around here). I've not had a fail yet and often get a fast pass. beko1987 1
UltraWomble Posted June 21, 2015 Posted June 21, 2015 F'king broadband in the wilds of Borwick - I swear 56K dial up was faster.Have you had a look on the Ausifrogs website about tapping the rear arms to put a grease nipple in and then do periodic nipple greasing?
beko1987 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Posted June 21, 2015 Is this the filter i found underneath before sf? Will try that! (then put a new one back in) i could always book a day off work on mot day, as then i have a 30 mile drive to the place, could get it nice and hot then! (then ask my mate to bung it on the machine asap). Doesnt help that its due in jan, and I always get there about 10 minutes early, and my mate gets there 15 mins late so its got time to cool down. Doubt the people working there would be happy about me sitting at 5k for 15 mins waiting for him...
nacho man Posted June 21, 2015 Posted June 21, 2015 They only do a smoke test on old diesels anyway, so unless something is terribly wrong you will be ok.
Rusty_Rocket Posted June 21, 2015 Posted June 21, 2015 Yes and if it's running on something other than diesel, the machine won't register anything anyway! That's the case with my old clonkers.
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