19 Years of Tin Snail - Back to normality

[dollywobbler]

A very long video of me making a mess of things.

 

I recommend tea.

[dollywobbler]

Another few hours in the garage and it's starting to look like an engine again.

 

Getting the old crankshaft seal out was a pig of a job. I just don't have the right tools, but managed to force it out eventually. Annoyingly, I'd fitted the new oil cooler before starting on the crank seal, then had to remove it again to allow better access. Idiot. 

 

Then I lost more time because I refitted the manifold before refitting the top cowling. I do this EVERY time. Back off with the manifold and try again.

 

Topped up the oil again, mostly because I'm terrified I'll forget (I drained it out earlier). Tomorrow, torque down the cylinder heads, fully tighten the manifold, rejet the carb, check valve clearances, fit electronic ignition, test run. I'm considering exhaust optional. Not convinced I'll get all of that done tomorrow, but Sunday is clear.

[mrbenn]

Good bit of work there. Looking forward to seeing the difference the shiny new bits make!

[dollywobbler]

UGH! Opened up the carburettor and found this pipe just floating about. Not ideal!

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

Top work DW - freezing or not - it's getting back there.

I'm wishing for a BMW converted one of these to show up at pennies price somehow........ would love it as a local runaround.

Best of luck with the rest.

How long is the running in after this lot is done and what's the process?

[dollywobbler]

Major moment!

https://twitter.com/HubNutVids/status/1058686982103154689

 

Running in period is basically keep it under 4000rpm for the first 2000kms. Living where I do probably helps, as you're on/off the throttle a lot, which helps the rings bed in.

[Noel Tidybeard]

i fink you need to check your zorst mate sounds like its blowin :mrgreen:

[LightBulbFun]

UGH! Opened up the carburettor and found this pipe just floating about. Not ideal!

 

 

congrats on that first run, im looking forward to the next video instalment

 

im curious tho what is that pipe for?

[dollywobbler]

I have no idea. It's back where it should be. Just got the exhaust connected up, fitted 123 electronic ignition and now she's an awful lot quieter. I'm sure she sounds more purposeful, but it could be pure placebo. Only slightly worrying thing is that the oil cooler unions still seem to be weeping a bit. Nowhere near as bad as it was, but definitely not dry.

[Noel Tidybeard]

I have no idea. It's back where it should be. Just got the exhaust connected up, fitted 123 electronic ignition and now she's an awful lot quieter. I'm sure she sounds more purposeful, but it could be pure placebo. Only slightly worrying thing is that the oil cooler unions still seem to be weeping a bit. Nowhere near as bad as it was, but definitely not dry.

 

is it worth a wrap of ptfe tape?

[dollywobbler]

No. Apparently, the tightening torque is a mere 10-14lb.ft, but naturally, you can't actually do them up with a torque wrench. Entirely possible I've overtightened them and squashed the rubber seal too hard. By far the scariest thing about working on 2CV engines is how low a lot of the tightening torques are. Oil feed to the head? 10lb.ft, which is sod all. Go even slightly beyond that and you'll pull the thread out of the head.

[PhilA]

I bought a tiny little torque wrench, calibrated in inch pounds for doing low-torque applications so it is possible to do these things accurately.

 

Phil

[SiC]

Look at Wiggle/Chain Reaction Cycles/bike shops/etc for low torque wrenches. Carbon fibre bikes have exacting torque requirements and usually around the 5-20Nm mark. Exacting in that if you overtighten you risk cracking and writing off a £k unrepairable carbon fibre frame.

[dollywobbler]

It's ok. My torque wrench does little. It's no good for hub nuts, ironically.

[Mrcento]

Trying to find torque spanner wrenches, which is idea for pipe unions etc, is a nightmare, they do exist but are always ££££

[Junkman]

Most people overtighten things on cars. It's a delight to watch Edd China work, who never ever does that.

Guys, the integrity of a car does not depend on tightening the bloody sump plug like a fucking gorilla would, dig?

[PhilA]

Surprisingly my Pontiac is all low torque figures for most fixings. Head bolts, for instance, are 55 lb/ft.

 

There's even torque figures for things like steering wheel (7lb/ft). Evidently the engineers had a bit of an idea as to the requirements of the material.

 

I can see the 2CV being specced in torque figures based upon availability of wrenches; most places back in the day would have had 6-8" open ended wrenches and the torque applied by one rarely exceeds 25lb/ft.

[Noel Tidybeard]

you could always do it the messy way- loosen off, start THE MIGHTY BIG BORE and the nip them up to the point when they stop leaking

[PhilA]

As mentioned, there's always that "I'll give it just a little more", whereby you get that sinking feeling that it feels like twisting an apple corer into a block of cheese.

 

Phil

[dollywobbler]

you could always do it the messy way- loosen off, start THE MIGHTY BIG BORE and the nip them up to the point when they stop leaking

That'll just knacker them up. Quite likely I've not seated the seals correctly. Off it all comes again then!

[SiC]

As mentioned, there's always that "I'll give it just a little more", whereby you get that sinking feeling that it feels like twisting an apple corer into a block of cheese.

 

Phil

That feeling when it just starts to give is even worse when you're tightening it up with a torque wrench and it hasn't given a click yet.

[mat_the_cat]

Then you realise you've set it to the wrong unit! Or is that just me...?

[bangernomics]

Love this thread, true labour of love stuff.

[dollywobbler]

Getting there. Just refitted the oil cooler with the new seals I should have fitted in the first place (but didn't realise I had because I had a man look). Now bone dry. Hoorah!

 

Now I can get on with putting the engine back together properly.

[dollywobbler]

Now with a picture!

[Tayne]

You should drive it looking like that.

[dollywobbler]

I did, up the driveway. Then I put her clothes back on.

 

First couple of miles completed. I'll give her a good checkover before her next outing, just to make sure all is well. Tappets are clattering, so I might recheck them.

 

Has been quite a slog, but got there in the end. Of course, as I'm restricted to a 4000rpm maximum, it means I can't really assess whether there is any difference. I want to say that she feels more responsive, but that could well be placebo. At best she's now kicking out 35bhp compared to 29, and I reckon that's optimistic given no other changes (652cc, 9:1 compression ratio over 8.5, bigger carb jets). I look forward to seeing how it is after running in - just 1998kms to go!

[catsinthewelder]

Great to hear shes coming back together. 

 

Where are you hosting the pictures as I can see them on the phone but not the PC?

[Bfg]

.

It's not at all easy to motivate oneself to go out into a cold garage after a long week of work  ..so well done  DW.  

 

I'm sure you'll find Elle will pick up her skirts and move along a cite easier, and that will be noticeable around the hills and lanes where you live, even before she's fully run in - after all torque is apparent at low revs. 

 

And as you've not changed any bearings - they'll not need running in, so it's just a matter of ensuring adequate lubrication, not running lean nor too advanced, and not overheating the engine (..which might lead to a seizure). Because of that - this time of year is a good time for running in. 

 

But because the honed bores are being scraped by the new rings, and that deposits tiny metal particles in the oil and filter, I'd recommend you change those after just a couple hundred miles.  

 

Have fun.  Bfg.

[dollywobbler]

Great to hear shes coming back together. 

 

Where are you hosting the pictures as I can see them on the phone but not the PC?

 

Twitter. I need to sort out a decent photo host, but they all keep going to utter shit.