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The Purple Peril and other dreadful cars I need to fix


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Posted

In the spirt of a true shitter I've solved the broken car problem by buying an older one

 

image by catsinthewelder1, on Flickr

 

insanity caused by the lack of radio (do any of the previous owners know whats wrong with it?). 

I believe the technical term is its fooked.

 

There is power getting to the radio, but once it goes into the back of it god knows what its doing because it sure as hell isnt providing value entertainment. Thankfully the tape player works, so so long as you have a selection of C-90's or one of those MP3 adaptor thingys you should  be OK.

I did try to find a suitable sized replacement, but the only one I found meant chopping the dashboard and I didnt want to do that. I did think of wiring a modern unit in inside the glovebox, but as with all good intentions it never progressed.

 

Mad about the petrol filler lock - the time I spent chuffing about with that.

  • Like 2
Posted

Have you had a chance to test your eight-track tapes yet?

 

Glad you've got that window sorted. Was always on my to do list, but there was always something else that needed doing. Like playing around off-road...

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Posted

I've been a little disorganised on the stereo front.

 

Knowing full well that the Cherry's stereo only worked on cassette I forgot to pack any.

 

I bought the 8 tracks on the museum visit 4 days after putting the van they are for into storage,  I've owned it seven years and still don't know if it's 8-track works.

 

Mad about the petrol filler lock - the time I spent chuffing about with that.

 

A bit like I felt when DW fixed half the faults on the BX in an afternoon  ;)

  • Like 2
Posted

I'm glad the Cherry appears to have a good home... again!  Poor little thing, it's been passed around between people who've enjoyed it with the best intentions, but somehow failed to make a lot of progress.  Good luck Mr C.

Posted

It are the Nu AutosHite Bike.

Posted

I'm not planning on keeping it too long as we're somewhat over capacity here.  The plan is to fix what I can, use it while the Disco is in bit's then sell it on here for what it owes us or to the general public for a bit more.

 

  That said,  who knows?  We both like driving it,  it's nicely retro without being too old to use and after the big diesel heaps it feels quite nippy. I can already see it elbowing one of the others out.

Posted

"Quite nippy"?  It's very nippy!  Grin-inducingly so around town, and even on Lake District rural roads.  I haven't driven it on a motorway, but with only 4 gears I can imagine it being a bit wearing.  But, you don't buy a car like this for motorway pounding, do you?  For what it does, it's nothing short of excellent.

 

And here speaks a man whose default setting is "buy the biggest, comfiest automatic I can find!"  If you do decide to move it on, and the timing falls right, see me first... ;-)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Not many updates here lately as I've not had time to fix the Landy yet.

 

I have welded up the sill on the Cherry so that should be ready for it's test next week.  I can't find anything it's going to fail on but we'll see what the tester finds.  All is not entirely rosy though as I think it needs a clutch,  on the plus side I can get the full kit for less than 20 quid posted,  anyone got an HBOL for it?

 

I've heard a sloshing noise too since I welded up the sill,  what would be the thoughts on drilling a hole in my repair to let the water out?

Posted

Not many updates here lately as I've not had time to fix the Landy yet.

 

I have welded up the sill on the Cherry so that should be ready for it's test next week.  I can't find anything it's going to fail on but we'll see what the tester finds.  All is not entirely rosy though as I think it needs a clutch,  on the plus side I can get the full kit for less than 20 quid posted,  anyone got an HBOL for it?

 

I've heard a sloshing noise too since I welded up the sill,  what would be the thoughts on drilling a hole in my repair to let the water out?

 

 

I think I have a genuine Nissan Workshop manual you can have. I might have a clutch plate fit it too but I'll need to go out in the shed and have a look.

  • Like 2
Posted

Cheers guys,  that's a very kind offer Ratdat.

 

I've made a bit of progress with the Disco today despite the rain,  took off the gearbox mounts, clutch slave and front section of exhaust.  The propshafts came off yesterday so I'll hopefully get the gearbox unbolted from the engine tomorrow.  With a bit of luck I'm hoping to get to the seal this weekend.

 

Things are going well so far,  I was expecting a right ballache getting the rear prop off as one of the bolts to the transfer box wouldn't tighten properly as it had rounded off inside the handbrake drum ( I didn't know it was a normal bolt at the time and was having nightmares about having to replace studs in the transfer box).  Fortunately holding it in place with a big screwdriver allowed it to slacken off,  I'll fit new propshaft nuts and bolts when I reassemble it.  

Posted

If you're getting new nuts for the rear propshaft, make sure they're long enough! First time round, I ended up with ones too short and the nyloc wasn't really doing anything (used threadlocker instead). However, I think they were replaced for the proper ones when it last visited a specialist (who very kindly didn't laugh at me too much). I did have horrors about a prop coming free. Doesn't bear thinking about! Surprised the bolt had rounded off though - thought they were quite snug in there.

Posted

I didn't realise you'd bought the Nissan! That obviously now means you can sell the AD016 to me on the cheap, everyone's a winner!

  • Like 2
Posted

Getting the propshaft bolts undone is a LOT easier with the proper socket! One of the 'special' tools that's worth getting IMO.

Posted

The clutch plate I thought I had isn't the right one (the one I have is for a CD17 engine which wasn't sold in N12s here!) but I did find a service manual. Yours for the cost of postage if you want it...

 

Picture1107.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

If you're getting new nuts for the rear propshaft, make sure they're long enough! First time round, I ended up with ones too short and the nyloc wasn't really doing anything (used threadlocker instead). However, I think they were replaced for the proper ones when it last visited a specialist (who very kindly didn't laugh at me too much). I did have horrors about a prop coming free. Doesn't bear thinking about! Surprised the bolt had rounded off though - thought they were quite snug in there.

 

I was bricking it the first few times I used it like this especially with the kids in the back.  I'm not sure why it rounded off but the other 3 have been holding it fine.  I'll take the old ones with me to get replacements.

 

I didn't realise you'd bought the Nissan! That obviously now means you can sell the AD016 to me on the cheap, everyone's a winner!

 

Ms C would literally kill me

 

Getting the propshaft bolts undone is a LOT easier with the proper socket! One of the 'special' tools that's worth getting IMO.

 

I had no idea there was a special tool,  is it thinner walled than an ordinary socket?  The cheap imperial one I've been using has certainly lost some of it's thickness from being murdered round.

 

The clutch plate I thought I had isn't the right one (the one I have is for a CD17 engine which wasn't sold in N12s here!) but I did find a service manual. Yours for the cost of postage if you want it...

 

Picture1107.jpg

 

Cheers mate,  PM sent

Posted

  anyone got an HBOL for it?

 

Yes, two in fact - I meant to leave one in the car and forgot. :oops:

Has the V5c turned up yet?

Posted

No sign of it yet,  will start to worry around the two month point

 

Never mind about the HBOL,  Ratdat is posting a proper factory job :D

Posted

No, Im only worried because I havent had the little slip that tells me I no longer own it.

 

I might even get around to cancelling the insurance for it this week.

Posted

If you look on eBay for Discovery propshaft bolt tool you will see what I mean - can't easily copy the link from my phone :-(

Posted

I can see why you would need a special tool if you had a 1/2" socket set but now it's been ground down a bit the little 3/8" socket seems to do the job fine.

 

I only got the slip for the BX a couple of weeks back,  not expecting the Cherry paperwork too soon.

  • Like 2
Posted

I haven't lifted it yet,  I'm playing the drag it back 7" with the crossmember still in place game.  Disconnect everything,  jack up the box on the trolley jack and separate with a crowbar (not on the mating surface).  Last time I had the gearbox tied to a fence with a length of rope and was heaving the car forwards wondering why it wouldn't separate,  the answer was because I hadn't found one of the nuts.

 

The exhaust bracket was in the way this time which I don't remember being an issue last time.  I do need to change the rear section though so whipped the lot off.  The downside here is that the rear two sections of exhaust don't want to let go of each other and can't be removed together as the axle is in the way.  A grinder will have to be deployed here as hammers and violence have failed.

Posted

God Land rovers are shit. You have my sympathy. Been arsing about with my 300Tdi today, nearly ready to hoick the engine out.

Posted

I guess I was lucky then as my 3/8" socket fitted the propshaft nuts very nicely. 

Posted

I confess that I never tried with my 3/8" set! Never even crossed my mind :oops:

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Just seen this Marty,  I've bought it and will see what it's like to fit.  It might end up in one of the other heaps as the knackered stereo does look nice and I'm not sure how to get it out without dismantling the car.

 

The CD player in the Disco looks Horrible as it sticks out of the mounting hole so a shorter one like this might be the answer,  neither of the older cars have decent radios either.

 

NEWS!!!

 

The new seals for the Disco came the other day and looked a lot easier to fit so I slapped one in and it was a lot easier.  Tried to start the engine to test it and the sodding battery was flat.

 

So today I fired her up,  looked underneath and was dismayed to see falling fluid,  looked closer and was not exactly pleased to see that it was DOT 4 from the clutch slave that was dripping as the piston had dropped out.  On the plus side though the seal is doing it's job.

 

I left it running for 15 mins and no oil drips :D

 

While it was chugging away it made sence to try and rouse the sleeping Austin.  Battery leads on, turn key Fzz and one sidelight.  Hook up Jump leads to disco and FZZZZ.  The starter is spinning but not engaging so I walloped it with a hammer and tried putting the +ve straight to the terminal on the starter still more FZZZ.

 

So it was time to give up on that and prod the rusty sill,  I'd pulled the cover off last week and seen that it was iffy

post-4555-0-34355400-1403783724_thumb.jpg

 

post-4555-0-36252200-1403783782_thumb.jpg

 

It's bad enough that I'm going to try welding the top of the repair panel on from inside the car.

 

I'm a twat and bought 5" cutting disks

 

post-4555-0-09579400-1403784186_thumb.jpg

 

rust is now mostly out,  cardboard engineering soon to work out the size of the repair panels

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