1971 MGB GT - Funky DIY seat covers fitted - see page 18

[wuvvum]

I know some people like to slag off MGBs but I think they are a fantastic thing to drive.  Exactly how an old sports car should feel imho.

[High Jetter]

Yes, the O/D might take some coaxing but check the switch, they were a stock item for a reason!

[Westbay]

...and don't forget to check the oil level in gearbox, if low will affect overdrive...

[Zelandeth]

21 hours ago, wuvvum said:

I know some people like to slag off MGBs but I think they are a fantastic thing to drive.  Exactly how an old sports car should feel imho.

Agreed.  I know people seem to like to trash talk them, but there's got to be reasons that they're so popular - and I reckon it's a simple blend of them being at least in my opinion fun to drive, able to mix easily with modern traffic on any road, relatively simple to work on, well documented, and with good spares support.  There aren't all that many cars of this era which can tick ALL of those boxes.

[Captain Mainwaring]

Congratulations on the test drive! Nawt wrong with an MGB in my book, it's easy to forget just how good looking they are. 

Looks really usable this one, nice one.

[Six-cylinder]

On 25/11/2024 at 17:36, Peter C said:

The gearbox works well, all gears go in smoothly, no crunching, all synchros are good.

The overdrive is supposed to work on 3rd and 4th gears. I flicked it on, whilst in 3rd gear, at about 35MPH, nothing happened. I didn't go fast enough to try it in 4th gear. Electrical issues? Or a knackered solenoid? 

Clutch take up is nice and smooth and the biting point is about half way up the pedal travel. Nice.

 

When my gearbox is cold overdrive is sluggish to engage, after it has warmed up it is fine.

[Peter C]

How cool that a manual gearbox has a dipstick!

I checked mine, the level is up to MAX and the oil looks fresh. Interesting that the gearbox's favourite tipple is the same as the engine oil.

Grease gun arrived today.

Job for the weekend.

I tidied up the spare wheel compartment and got some essential tools ready for my next trip.

I refitted the false floor panel. Remarkably, in my stash of old ironmongery, I found the correct bolts to secure the hinge panel to the bulkhead and the hinges to the false floor panel. For now I've cut a piece of boot liner from an old lease car to cover the panel but in time I will need to carpet the boot and the area where the rear seat once was. I secured the false floor panel with a bungee to prevent it from lifting, which is cunningly concealed by the boot liner. Genius. 

I can't get the adhesive residue off the wheel arches. Perhaps a lick of red paint will make them more attractive.

More soon.

[Surface Rust]

15 minutes ago, Peter C said:

 

I can't get the adhesive residue off the wheel arches. Perhaps a lick of red paint will make them more attractive.

More soon.

Maybe stick a piece of that 2 way stretchy carpet for camper conversions over them - covers a multitude of sins and looks neat!

[Peter C]

5 minutes ago, Surface Rust said:

Maybe stick a piece of that 2 way stretchy carpet for camper conversions over them - covers a multitude of sins and looks neat!

Ehh? Tell me more please.

[Mally]

Under the trim you can see at the back there may be a couple of squares of foam pushed up into the rear wing top.

Presume to stop drumming? But someone told me to pull them out as they can hold water

[Mally]

6 minutes ago, Peter C said:

Ehh? Tell me more please.

Yes its magic stuff .

eg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363626151004?_skw=camper+van+carpet++trim+in+red&var=632847176651&itmmeta=01JDN67R5ZVZJQ62X6ZQDXGH07&hash=item54a9cebc5c:g:EngAAOSwUzBhP1R3&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmBdIHx6RMur7dD3OFwfVz95AyPI4VMyO8BkjXqmF%2Ffvquc1B4zERo1%2BzyXjvHb1hoyBk%2FBqEzXg%2BT5mqVICrMs8WLGXpsQVmjl10K7FlUCEofrZ456Wil6qDV8aVIthd7CxmHddh4DCBD0Tn5icB0pFhbEwPbyt8SAt6ALcgOLYZ6N2%2FuvdR3wltWHOdhOOEMuXOiT0EX8jjxZ3rGcWicI6ingyUOajWyuXqeTR1y1sHyY1t4dRFvrcTbRD1fGYWBvNJzoyHik8msQmzHNg1CN%2FPNYm5XNiAiWTfEiTaDHkpV8q0rCGZOL6hASrwMuo0Q%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4iDn6btZA

[Peter C]

I am planning on taking the MGB to London tomorrow, to see my parents. That will be a big test for a near 54 year old car that has been hibernating for considerable time. Wish me luck.

Ahead of tomorrow's trip, I removed the bottom radiator hose and drained water from the cooling system (came out pretty clean because I've already flushed it through once) and added a mixture of anti-freeze and fresh water.

Then I took the MGB for a spin around the block. Last (and first!) time I drove it, the false boot floor was knocking around in the boot and I was too concerned about mechanical catastrophes to have been worried about noises coming from the back. Today, there were no more noises coming from the boot area but there was a nasty sounding, metal on metal, knock coming from the rear, underneath the car. 

It didn't take long to identify the problem. I assume that the exhaust system was designed for the original lever arm rear damper set-up, not a telescopic conversion, as fitted to my MGB. The nut, fixed at the end of the bolt that secures the damper to the spring was catching on the side of the exhaust pipe.

When the MGB was up on axle stands, whilst I was fitting the exhaust, the axle was situated at a different height, hence I didn't spot the problem before.

I had to loosen the exhaust system at the back and I removed the nut and bolt.

The head of the bolt is significantly narrower than the chunky bolt.

I reinstated the nut and bolt but with the bolt head on the inner side. By replacing the associated washer behind the nut on the outer side, I reckon I've gained about 5-6mm of clearance. 

If the exhaust is still too close to the damper bolt, I will get a G-clamp out and squash the exhaust down to size but hopefully it won't come to that.

More soon.

 

[grogee]

2 hours ago, Peter C said:

I am planning on taking the MGB to London tomorrow, to see my parents. That will be a big test for a near 54 year old car that has been hibernating for considerable time. Wish me luck.

Ahead of tomorrow's trip, I removed the bottom radiator hose and drained water from the cooling system (came out pretty clean because I've already flushed it through once) and added a mixture of anti-freeze and fresh water.

Then I took the MGB for a spin around the block. Last (and first!) time I drove it, the false boot floor was knocking around in the boot and I was too concerned about mechanical catastrophes to have been worried about noises coming from the back. Today, there were no more noises coming from the boot area but there was a nasty sounding, metal on metal, knock coming from the rear, underneath the car. 

It didn't take long to identify the problem. I assume that the exhaust system was designed for the original lever arm rear damper set-up, not a telescopic conversion, as fitted to my MGB. The nut, fixed at the end of the bolt that secures the damper to the spring was catching on the side of the exhaust pipe.

I had to loosen the exhaust system at the back and I removed the nut and bolt.

The head of the bolt is significantly narrower than the chunky bolt.

I reinstated the nut and bolt but with the bolt head on the inner side. By replacing the associated washer behind the nut on the outer side, I reckon I've gained about 5-6mm of clearance. 

If the exhaust is still too close to the damper bolt, I will get a G-clamp out and squash the exhaust down to size but hopefully it won't come to that.

More soon.

 

I have 'fixed' similar before by using old intercooler hose or similar. That end of the zorst doesn't get super hot so it's usually OK... Retain with jubilee clips for maximum bodge points. 

[IronStar]

2 hours ago, Peter C said:

I am planning on taking the MGB to London tomorrow, to see my parents. That will be a big test for a near 54 year old car that has been hibernating for considerable time. Wish me luck.

Ahead of tomorrow's trip, I removed the bottom radiator hose and drained water from the cooling system (came out pretty clean because I've already flushed it through once) and added a mixture of anti-freeze and fresh water.

Then I took the MGB for a spin around the block. Last (and first!) time I drove it, the false boot floor was knocking around in the boot and I was too concerned about mechanical catastrophes to have been worried about noises coming from the back. Today, there were no more noises coming from the boot area but there was a nasty sounding, metal on metal, knock coming from the rear, underneath the car. 

It didn't take long to identify the problem. I assume that the exhaust system was designed for the original lever arm rear damper set-up, not a telescopic conversion, as fitted to my MGB. The nut, fixed at the end of the bolt that secures the damper to the spring was catching on the side of the exhaust pipe.

When the MGB was up on axle stands, whilst I was fitting the exhaust, the axle was situated at a different height, hence I didn't spot the problem before.

I had to loosen the exhaust system at the back and I removed the nut and bolt.

The head of the bolt is significantly narrower than the chunky bolt.

I reinstated the nut and bolt but with the bolt head on the inner side. By replacing the associated washer behind the nut on the outer side, I reckon I've gained about 5-6mm of clearance. 

If the exhaust is still too close to the damper bolt, I will get a G-clamp out and squash the exhaust down to size but hopefully it won't come to that.

More soon.

 

I had visions of much more concerning knocking when I saw the thread renamed. Really glad it’s nothing, not that other Knock!

[Peter C]

24 minutes ago, grogee said:

I have 'fixed' similar before by using old intercooler hose or similar. That end of the zorst doesn't get super hot so it's usually OK... Retain with jubilee clips for maximum bodge points. 

I have already devised (in my head) another way of increasing the gap between the bolt and pipe that doesn’t involve damaging the exhaust.

[grogee]

25 minutes ago, Peter C said:

I have already devised (in my head) another way of increasing the gap between the bolt and pipe that doesn’t involve damaging the exhaust.

Does it involve a BFH? 

[Peter C]

9 minutes ago, grogee said:

BFH

Big Fat Hammer?

[Peter C]

1 hour ago, Peter C said:

Big Fat Hammer?

Nothing as drastic as that.

Wait and see, if need be. But hopefully not.

[Marina door handles]

Big Friendly Hammer surely, that's normally every ones go to F word isn't it? 

[somewhatfoolish]

17 hours ago, Peter C said:

 

The thickness of that spacer could be reduced by half.

[Peter C]

The other day I noticed a green cable hanging loose under the dashboard, below the rev counter. A bit of research revealed that a green cable connects to the back of the rev counter. 

I fiddled with the cable behind the dashboard, managed to plug it in where it belongs and hey presto, the rev counter is working again.

I refitted the metal cover that goes over the brake and clutch master cylinders as without it, a cold draught gets into the cabin, directly towards the man sausage area. I have secured the cover with a screw and a cable tie as a temporary arrangement, as the brake master cylinder will definitely require replacement soon.

I fiddled with the ignition timing and the engine is idling better now.

Afterwards, I went for a quick test drive and was pleased to note that the exhaust and damper no longer collide. 

As it started to rain, I put the MGB into the garage. 

But after lunch the (light) rain cleared and I took the MGB on a 40 mile (return) trip to see my parents in London.

The M40 is not the MGB's natural habitat so I stayed in the nearside lane and took it easy.

As the overdrive is not working, at 55MPH the engine is spinning over at 3,500 revs. A bit much. I need to find out what is wrong with the overdrive. 

The traffic got heavier once I crossed the M25 but the engine was happy, no temperature rises and it continued to idle and pull nicely.

Upon arrival in London I noticed that debris had been blown in via the ventilation duct located behind the bulkhead. To the best of my knowledge there is no way of accessing the void to give it a clean. 

Looking pretty in London.

On route back on the M40, I focused my attention on the noise coming from the back of the dashboard. It's like a vacuum with a rough edge to it sound. I wonder whether it is related to the non-functioning oil pressure gauge. Must investigate further. Also, the backlight lights don't work on any of the dials.

I managed to squeeze three large boxes in the MGB - practical car!

The only fault that I noticed once I got home was a defective nearside headlamp. Maybe a loose connection? Or a blown bulb? Either way, doesn't matter as the MGB completed its first proper voyage and I absolutely love it!

More soon.

 

 

[Christine]

Marvellous .

[Marina door handles]

I think you will like it even more when you get the over drive is sorted.... I remember when I picked up my first GT, my brother who had dropped me off for the collection thought I had lost the plot.  He shot off in his recently acquired 2ltr mk3 Granada, whilst I faffed with my new purchase.  I then caught him back up on the M4, he was cruising along at 85 ish and was a bit surprised to see the yellow B quickly appear behind him....  FYI it was a standard 1.8 with the usual 85-90bhp so no ball of fire.  

Mind you I did rather rag that car senseless I was young, dumb and was in a hurry most of the time..... 

The real point of this tale is that the GT is absolutely fine on the Motorway with the overdive.

[Peter C]

I investigated the defective headlight issue.

Removal of the lamp unit could have been easier, the chrome bezel was a bitch to remove.

I tested the wiring, no issues here.

I tested the lamp unit and sure as hell, it's blown.

Rather than replacing just the bulb, I now have to replace the entire light unit. Great. 

I wanted to investigate the defective oil pressure gauge issue and the vacuum sound that emanates from behind the dashboard.

To gain slightly better access to the back of the gauge, I removed the radio and the console.

I found an old V11 tax application form, which dates back to 2004, when a Mr David Ross Ashby owned the MGB. I searched for his property on Google Streetview, clicked on the old images  but there was no sign of a shiny red sports car on the driveway. Or an MGB.

The oil pressure gauge is definitely mechanical and I can't see anything wrong with the tube that extends via the bulkhead to the back of the gauge.

The gauge / pipe are fed from the side of the engine block.

I have no idea what could be wrong. Is the gauge faulty? Is there some of form of sender somewhere I can't see?

I am not particularly worried about this issue as the engine starts on the button, runs well, doesn't smoke, pulls well and doesn't knock or rattle. If the engine was worn to the point where it has absolutely no oil pressure, it wouldn't be running this well. I managed 40 miles in the MGB yesterday, mostly with the engine revving at over 3,000 rev/min. If it had oil pressure issues, it would have said something. Even if the oil pressure is lower than what it should be, I wouldn't intend to do much about it. I certainly wouldn't be looking to rebuild the engine. The mileage reading is 93k. Is that genuine? Are the clocks original? Has it been around the clock? Maybe twice? Who knows.

As for the vacuum noise, I have absolutely no idea what could be causing it. 

More soon.

 

 

[Matty]

Our spitfire will happily pull 70 at about 3200 rpm. Defo get the overdrive working!!

[Bmwdumptruck]

Think I’d be checking the flexiable hose in the engine bay. My money would be on it being perished internally and probably blocked solid.  Bit like how flexiable brake hoses caan go with age. 

[LightBulbFun]

1 hour ago, Peter C said:

Rather than replacing just the bulb, I now have to replace the entire light unit. Great. 

that *is* the lightbulb  the light unit in your case would be the lamp holder, and the bucket the lightbulb is fitted too

the lightbulb in your hand is whats known as a sealed beam lamp, a superior form of lightbulb over any separate bulb and reflector headlight unit, in a sealed beam lamp the  the filament is directly and precisely  focused in the precision reflector of lamp at the factory and the whole lamp is completely sealed and the inside is fill with an inert atmosphere to protect the filament as with any other lightbulb, the result of this is  the reflector is sealed inside the lightbulb itself, so it can never get dirty or tarnished, and every time the lamp is changed you get a new fresh reflector and sealed beam lamps are made out of pressed glass construction so robust and precise mirrors and lenses can be incorporated in the design of the lamp and the filament is always focused within this at the factory, so there is no need to worry about alignment of the light source itself within the reflector

they mainly fell out of favour because they are very much a function over form device, and car designs and fickle public wanted different shapes and all that, but in applications which demand performance, for example aircraft landing lights etc you will still find sealed beam lamps, these days ones with Halogen capsules sealed into the reflector for even better performance  as can be seen in this aircraft landing lamp of mine kindly recently sent to me by another member on this forum it is 28V 450W PAR46 example (, PAR=Parabolic Aluminised reflector, 46, 8th's of an inches in diameter, the same as the 5.75 inch headlights found in a Rover P6 or such, normal car seal beams like your MGB are PAR56 aka 56 8th inches in diameter) 

(and as a fun fact its this technical superiority of them, which is why the US mandated their use for so long)

[High Jetter]

AKA SBU 7002, 7004 etc, depening on whether they have a pilot hole for sidelight. The 7 indicates 7" diameter, 5000 (5") series are more for twin headlamp cars like Rover P6. & Triumph 2000 etc.

Your lamp is £13.75 from the MGOC https://www.mgocspares.co.uk/product/13h3471/headlamp-unit-sealed-beam-65-55w-rhd-with-pilot?srsltid=AfmBOoq6Y9lxat1zqwealYe7SMOvAMdLCXNOg0uaRgTwv6X3JUYrHDdS

[High Jetter]

Hang on, you've got separate sidelights - why the pilot window in your headlamp?

[Zelandeth]

The needle in the oil pressure gauge isn't just stuck on the broken bit of illumination diffuser is it?

As for the dash lighting, I'd be checking the rheostat first, they're usually scratchy as hell at the best of times, never mind if having not been used in years.