project 2006 Golf 2.0TFSi GTi - Bargain Basement 197k miles TFSI Club Member

[SiC]

37 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

The bushes are probably £20-30 each, the arms are probably £80 or so at a guess? So that could be the best part of £100 saved there.

These are the bits I'm looking at:

• £21.24 for just the trailing arm bush and bolts: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/mountings-bushes/febi-mounting-kit-control-lever-32541-detail
• £58.38 for the complete arm with ball joint, bushes and bolts: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/wishbonesuspensionarm/febiwishbonesuspensionarmfrontright40104-detail

I like the Febi parts as they come with those stretch bolts and ball joints. (I know that many reuse them but I rather not the risk)

Other bits:

• This is the £38 NAPA wishbone I'm thinking of (again with bolts is handy): https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/wishbonesuspensionarm/napawishbonesuspensionarmnst2186-detail
  FAG is £48 for the same: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335309624692
  (I'll probably go NAPA here)
• Febi complete trackrod: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/steering-other/febi-tie-rod-front-rh-45760a-detail
  Without boot its £4 cheaper (~£20) but tbh I'd rather just throw all new on for the slight extra.
  Outer tie-rods are like £12 each but tbh if its way less hassle, I'd rather change the whole thing. 
• Napa springs £39.43 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315210937649
  KYB springs £49.15 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235373865786
  (I'd be tempted to spend a bit more for the KYB springs tbh)
• NAPA shocks £38.47 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335240890310
  KYB shocks £59.26 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334632204147
  (I'll probably skip shocks for now tbh as easily replaced in the future)

(eBay prices are after the current 15% promo code)

Realisitically I'll probably only put like 5k or so in a year on this car. Not sure exactly what I'm getting but I want to put the order in tomorrow morning really so it comes before the bank holiday weekend. 

[RoverFolkUs]

16 minutes ago, SiC said:

These are the bits I'm looking at:

• £21.24 for just the trailing arm bush and bolts: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/mountings-bushes/febi-mounting-kit-control-lever-32541-detail
• £58.38 for the complete arm with ball joint, bushes and bolts: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/wishbonesuspensionarm/febiwishbonesuspensionarmfrontright40104-detail

I like the Febi parts as they come with those stretch bolts and ball joints. (I know that many reuse them but I rather not the risk)

Other bits:

• This is the £38 NAPA wishbone I'm thinking of (again with bolts is handy): https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/wishbonesuspensionarm/napawishbonesuspensionarmnst2186-detail
  FAG is £48 for the same: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335309624692
  (I'll probably go NAPA here)
• Febi complete trackrod: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/steering-other/febi-tie-rod-front-rh-45760a-detail
  Without boot its £4 cheaper (~£20) but tbh I'd rather just throw all new on for the slight extra.
  Outer tie-rods are like £12 each but tbh if its way less hassle, I'd rather change the whole thing. 
• Napa springs £39.43 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315210937649
  KYB springs £49.15 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235373865786
  (I'd be tempted to spend a bit more for the KYB springs tbh)
• NAPA shocks £38.47 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335240890310
  KYB shocks £59.26 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334632204147
  (I'll probably skip shocks for now tbh as easily replaced in the future)

(eBay prices are after the current 15% promo code)

Realisitically I'll probably only put like 5k or so in a year on this car. Not sure exactly what I'm getting but I want to put the order in tomorrow morning really so it comes before the bank holiday weekend. 

All of that looks spot on to me, I'd say just the front bushes to save a bit of dosh, £38 per rear arm is quite a bargain really, IIRC TPS sell the bolts alone for about £10 a piece! Can't go wrong with the complete track rod for £24 a side, I'd definitely get the inner as well as the outer. To be honest you could possibly save the outer if anything, it's the inner that's going to be buggered so well worth getting the lot. 

I guess the extra £10 to have both springs in KYB makes sense although I'd probably be happy to fit the cheap Napa springs if it was me. I'm mainly wary about rubber parts (like the front lower arm rearmost bushes) from Napa and other cheap brands, anything else I'm easy going with. 

Those prices are all very reasonable indeed. I can't imagine our trade suppliers that I use could even get anywhere near those sort of figures. The cost of convenience I suppose! 

[Popsicle]

35 minutes ago, SiC said:

Did you use Febi bushes? Just wondering how they held up with your usage as you're usage is a good longevity tester. 😅

I like the Febi ones as they come with replacement stretch bolts as standard. 

I'm pondering if I might just do those rather than the whole arm.  When I had it up last on a jack, I don't remember any noticeable movement on the ball joints when tugging the wheel. Third of the price to change just those bushes and a whole lot quicker to do. 

I've just checked my spreadsheet, I fitted Delphi ones from GSF at 215k miles, they got advised at the last MOT at 340k miles, so lasted 125k miles. Prior to that some ebay cheap junk at 160k miles, so they didn't last very long.

I assume your ball joints are bolted on? I've never replaced the whole arm just ball joints and rear bushes as needed.

[Popsicle]

36 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

That's good to know if Febi bushes are surviving your usage! Although I suppose 100k motorway-ish miles could be more kind to them than 100k urban miles 🤔

Sorry, Ive just checked my spreadsheet they were Delphi ones from GSF and have been on for 125k miles.

I think with my leisurely driving style and all 105bhp even going at full chat is hardly taxing on the bushes 😁.

@SiC might be you be better with poly bushes, particularly if you're thinking of some track days?

[Popsicle]

37 minutes ago, SiC said:

These are the bits I'm looking at:

• £21.24 for just the trailing arm bush and bolts: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/mountings-bushes/febi-mounting-kit-control-lever-32541-detail
• £58.38 for the complete arm with ball joint, bushes and bolts: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/wishbonesuspensionarm/febiwishbonesuspensionarmfrontright40104-detail

I like the Febi parts as they come with those stretch bolts and ball joints. (I know that many reuse them but I rather not the risk)

Other bits:

• This is the £38 NAPA wishbone I'm thinking of (again with bolts is handy): https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/wishbonesuspensionarm/napawishbonesuspensionarmnst2186-detail
  FAG is £48 for the same: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335309624692
  (I'll probably go NAPA here)
• Febi complete trackrod: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/steering-suspension/steering-other/febi-tie-rod-front-rh-45760a-detail
  Without boot its £4 cheaper (~£20) but tbh I'd rather just throw all new on for the slight extra.
  Outer tie-rods are like £12 each but tbh if its way less hassle, I'd rather change the whole thing. 
• Napa springs £39.43 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315210937649
  KYB springs £49.15 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235373865786
  (I'd be tempted to spend a bit more for the KYB springs tbh)
• NAPA shocks £38.47 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335240890310
  KYB shocks £59.26 (pair): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334632204147
  (I'll probably skip shocks for now tbh as easily replaced in the future)

(eBay prices are after the current 15% promo code)

Realisitically I'll probably only put like 5k or so in a year on this car. Not sure exactly what I'm getting but I want to put the order in tomorrow morning really so it comes before the bank holiday weekend. 

The only thing I'd pick up on from that list is KYB springs. Now I've never had a issue with them snapping or failing in anyway at all, but I've always found them to give a very firm ride and I've fitted a few sets over the years.

If you want good response and turn in feel on the corners then they are brilliant, but for me, the comfort factor wasn't so good.

[SiC]

7 hours ago, RoverFolkUs said:

I'm mainly wary about rubber parts (like the front lower arm rearmost bushes) from Napa and other cheap brands, anything else I'm easy going with. 

Possibly worth the extra tenner to go FAG for the rear bottom arm? I think they're a much better brand than NAPA?

[RoverFolkUs]

12 minutes ago, SiC said:

Possibly worth the extra tenner to go FAG for the rear bottom arm? I think they're a much better brand than NAPA?

They would be a better brand but I'm not sure how noticeable any difference may be, I'd say possibly negligible although of course the FAG arms may last longer

[mercedade]

If this was just a bit of a summer fling for a road car, I'd be just doing the fronts and driving around the rest.

But because you're planning on track days (the same reason I got my 'now too nice to track day' R53) I'd be looking at the doing the refresh you've got planned out. Apart from anything else, the cost of parts is dwarfed by the expense of recovering a car from the Armco because you a clipped a kerb and some ancient rubber wiggled itself free.

Same goes for rattling chains...

[SiC]

I put my order in at lunch time. 

 - NAPA rear springs as I decided the spec was identical to the KYB while also looking identical and decided that as NAPA don't make springs, they could be the same.

 - NAPA rear control arms

 - Febi front tie-rod sets

And that's it.

Almost went for the front wishbones and then decided the rest is probably fine so started to look at just the front wishbone rear bush. Then decided it didn't look terrible and the risk was too high in those bolts ending up snapping in the subframe. Thus making a half hour job into a full day job. I can always do them in the future.

The springs I nearly didn't but as the ones on there have lost their coating, they're probably already starting to go rusty and weaken. I didn't want them ending up snapping on me when trying to put it all back together.

£125 for tie-rod parts and bottom arms (cheaper on parts in motion website). £45 for the rear springs (cheaper on eBay with the part in motion store). Paid an extra fiver on each order to get it tomorrow ready for the weekend. 

Still, I've just spent another £180 in parts and have another £75 in wheel alignment (both axles) afterwards...

It'd been an extra £40 if I did the front wishbone bushes or another £120 if I did the whole wishbone. Plus likely many extra hours swearing at broken bolts. 

I've also bought a inner tie rod tool and spring clamps because I have neither:

https://amzn.eu/d/hwziYVc

https://amzn.eu/d/gd981GH

I don't expect to use the spring clamps but having them to hand incase I do is useful. Maybe useful to reduce the spring load when either removing or fitting the lower rear arm. 

[SiC]

Parts have arrived. I better hide this lot from Mrs SiC before I get told off for buying even more car parts again.

NAPA Rear arms seem decent enough. Not so sure on the NAPA springs, kinda wish I paid more for KYB now. We'll see what they're like once compressed and on the car. Hopefully enough strength and not too low.

Bought this to do the inner tie rod. I'm not entirely convinced that it'll do the job.

[beko1987]

That's the same tool I have. Key is to use enough extensions to have it all level and flat against the joint flats. I smashed my thumbnail off trying it without at first, then once I'd extended out from the wing of the car it came off half a turn on the bar at the end of the extensions. Mine fits over the track rod end too

[SiC]

I do really like mucking around with old cars but this is a great example of why I'm more interested in and back to more modern stuff ATM:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285776596420

That Reliant eBay auction finished today at £200 MORE than what I paid for this GTI.

This GTI is not only more fun and satisfying to drive but cheap+easier to get parts for and more interesting (because more complex) to diagnose & repair. It won't be like that forever on these 00-era cars so might as well get my fill in them before they become rare and silly money. 

[bigfella2]

After all this spend on the suspension parts you might as well get the alloy arms and alloy hubs off the Passat while your at it, will save quite a bit of unsprung weight.

[SiC]

Maybe if I get another and want to go all out. For now the stout steel arms and hubs should suffice. Not least I'm trying to keep spending under control!

[SiC]

Boshed on the passenger side tie rod. Wasn't difficult at all. 

Tie rod tool was a pile of shit. Ended up zip tieing the thing together to stop it falling apart every time in position.

My old ball joint separator (iirc I picked it up from a big giveaway box at field of dreams a few years ago when FoTU was on over there) didn't fit so I ended up bashing it into place. This acted as a pickle fork and popped it off. One of Bezo mate is delivering a Laser ball joint separator and proper pickle fork later today. So the other side later should be easier. 

Trying to get a new one of those the metal clip things on the boot took the longest out of the whole job. Ended up sticking a zip tie around there in the end as simply couldn't get any tools in to compress it. Probably fine as not doing a lot?

Some pictures.

 

I did attempt to see if this would undo but it was solid. I reckon it would have come off with heat. Just no patience when I can replace the lot.

I love my fat impact. Expensive but whizzes stuff like this nut off in tens of seconds.

This took more of a fight. Hammer wasn't enough to get it off so I had to abuse my tools and use that ball joint remover as a pickle fork.

I cut the boot off as it allowed me to get the tool over. You can see here where it kept wanting to open up.

After a fight it was off. Pretty certain the inner tie rod was factory and tbh I think the outer tie rod might be too as it has VAG part numbers on its boot.

Tightened the new one up to 120Nm. Book figure I believe says 100Nm but I did it a tad tighter just incase. There is some mechanical differences here from not doing it up on the centre so I wanted to be double sure it was tight. Probably the only and last inner tie rod this car will get anyway. 

This boot took most of the time and fight. Zip tie at the back and one of those crush clips (supplied with the new boot) at the front.

New tie outer tie rod on. 21.5 turns is what I counted to match the old one up on length. It looks out by eye and probably is, but hopefully good enough to drive 8 miles or so to the tyre garage for alignment.

Bottom bolt on the outer tie rod I did to 50Nm. Retaining nut on the arm I did to mega tight with an adjustable wrench (I didn't have a open 24mm spanner - I probably need to get more spanners).

 

Looking at picture times, roughly hour in total - half hour to get it off and half hour to get it back on. Then half hour tidy up as I am doing it outside on my drive. I reckon even slow me can get the other side done in an hour.

[beko1987]

I used a fat decent zip tie on my inner and it's still fine (last time I checked a month ago) . I've got a handy tiny lip on the end of my steering box though which I'd be more worried if it didn't have. 

[N Dentressangle]

Cable ties are fine on steering rack boots. Just need to clip them v short so the sharp end doesn't end up puncturing the boot.

[SiC]

Bang on an hour to do the otherside. Pickle fork made it a lot quicker

 

[SiC]

While I was in this wheel arch, I attended to a few VAG and TFSI specific items under the wheel arch.

First was cleaning this out. Wasn't actually too grubby. It needs a good clean, dry and paint though. No point treating it in the weather, so it'll have to be a summer job in the future.

Next was ripping this foam out both sides. Apparently VW put this infernal thing in even the 2013+ Mk7 Golfs too.

For those that don't know, this rubs on the inside of the wheel arch and causes the rusty arches you often see on a Golf Mk5. I'm sure there is a good reason it's there but not good enough to make a car last.

(This is the worst side. The other is actually pretty much alright)

Next was inspecting the Diverter Valve. Basically this thing helps control boost. They're a known weak point and often end up failing. When they do, you loose all boost. They've been through several different designs through the years.

It's attached to the side of the turbo on the 200bhp TFSI engine with the K03 turbo. Not the easiest to get to tbh. I seem to remember it was easier on the TT MK2 I had. Might go look at old photos to see access.

Anyway you have to look above the tie rod boot.

3 hex headed bolts. Two you can see here and another hidden.

Was a bit of a fight as they were pretty tight and I kept loosing my 5mm hex bit out of the ratchet. But it came out eventually. 

This looks to me I think is the latest design as there is no rubber diaphragm in this. Definitely been replaced before as none of the original factory items are likely to ever last these amount of miles without failure. Nice to see it's a Pierberg (OE manufacture of these) rather than some garbage unbranded Chinese junk.

Also found a aluminium covered electronic unit in the wheel arch. Riveted at the bottom and then a plastic clip at the top. It was loose at the top so no doubt a source of a rattle. 

My assumption was that this is the alarm siren. Ripping it out said that assumption was correct! I usually remove alarm sirens on older cars where I can. No one reacts to the damn things apart from anger when they go wrong at 4am in the morning. There is no error code on this one so it probably still works but I don't trust it. I always say on my insurance that a car has an immobiliser but no alarm, so there should be no issue there. 

Finally had this mess to clear up.

Then drop onto four wheels again. Hopefully I'll get time tomorrow to turn it around and get the rear arms done.

My suspicion they might be a right ball ache, even if I cut them out. Not sure if a 115mm cutting disc is even big enough to just chop the bolt right at the bush sleeve or not. Hopefully it is then it should be quite quick. The bolt on the wheel side should hopefully either come out or just snap with an impact.

Even there is only two bolts on each side to deal with, I think there is a good chance it might be hours of fighting. Also I don't know how likely it'll be for me to easily mark up the position of the old arms. So the toe might be completely out. I'll do it by eye to see what looks right, so I can at least get it good enough to safely drive to the place that does the alignment.

[Popsicle]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

While I was in this wheel arch, I attended to a few VAG and TFSI specific items under the wheel arch.

First was cleaning this out. Wasn't actually too grubby. It needs a good clean, dry and paint though. No point treating it in the weather, so it'll have to be a summer job in the future.

Next was ripping this foam out both sides. Apparently VW put this infernal thing in even the 2013+ Mk7 Golfs too.

For those that don't know, this rubs on the inside of the wheel arch and causes the rusty arches you often see on a Golf Mk5. I'm sure there is a good reason it's there but not good enough to make a car last.

(This is the worst side. The other is actually pretty much alright)

Next was inspecting the Diverter Valve. Basically this thing helps control boost. They're a known weak point and often end up failing. When they do, you loose all boost. They've been through several different designs through the years.

It's attached to the side of the turbo on the 200bhp TFSI engine with the K03 turbo. Not the easiest to get to tbh. I seem to remember it was easier on the TT MK2 I had. Might go look at old photos to see access.

Anyway you have to look above the tie rod boot.

3 hex headed bolts. Two you can see here and another hidden.

Was a bit of a fight as they were pretty tight and I kept loosing my 5mm hex bit out of the ratchet. But it came out eventually. 

This looks to me I think is the latest design as there is no rubber diaphragm in this. Definitely been replaced before as none of the original factory items are likely to ever last these amount of miles without failure. Nice to see it's a Pierberg (OE manufacture of these) rather than some garbage unbranded Chinese junk.

Also found a aluminium covered electronic unit in the wheel arch. Riveted at the bottom and then a plastic clip at the top. It was loose at the top so no doubt a source of a rattle. 

My assumption was that this is the alarm siren. Ripping it out said that assumption was correct! I usually remove alarm sirens on older cars where I can. No one reacts to the damn things apart from anger when they go wrong at 4am in the morning. There is no error code on this one so it probably still works but I don't trust it. I always say on my insurance that a car has an immobiliser but no alarm, so there should be no issue there. 

Finally had this mess to clear up.

Then drop onto four wheels again. Hopefully I'll get time tomorrow to turn it around and get the rear arms done.

My suspicion they might be a right ball ache, even if I cut them out. Not sure if a 115mm cutting disc is even big enough to just chop the bolt right at the bush sleeve or not. Hopefully it is then it should be quite quick. The bolt on the wheel side should hopefully either come out or just snap with an impact.

Even there is only two bolts on each side to deal with, I think there is a good chance it might be hours of fighting. Also I don't know how likely it'll be for me to easily mark up the position of the old arms. So the toe might be completely out. I'll do it by eye to see what looks right, so I can at least get it good enough to safely drive to the place that does the alignment.

Thats some good progress there - I'd still be overthinking it all!

I think the foam lumps are put in behind the liners to reduce noise/vibration levels. They'd caused similar rust on my Caddys arches, I cleaned it all up, rust proofed it and undersealed the tubs last summer.

 

[SiC]

Arse in the air. 

 

She's a crusty one! The rear subframe is unboltable though if I ever wanted to go that far. (I won't)

 

Bushes are ... worn

Nearside camber bolt is bad but this offside actually looks like it's been done relatively recently.

Lower arm bushes are a bit fucked.

 

Bolts are rusty and round.

 

Oh boy this is going to be fun*.

In more positive news, I'm glad I didn't buy replacement shocks. These are far better than I would have bought! (Would have been cheap NAPA) 

Kinda feel like I should have spent a bit more and got better springs than the NAPA ones I bought.

Right side first. 18mm head rounded off on first go. Hammered a 11/16th on. Buzzed right out. 

Arm supported by my jack as I couldn't get my new coil spring clamps in. 

Bolt and spring came out no bother.

Bush on the bottom of that rear wheel assembly doesn't look great either. If I'd known, I'd have got a replacement.

 

Now to tackle this

 

I actually managed to undo this nut. Not that it actually freed up the bolt.

So went straight in with a thin cutting disc and chopped the bolt head side out. Then cut the bolt shorter where I'd remove the nut. A bit of wiggling and it was free.

That bolt utterly seized in that arm. This is no doubt exactly why the tyre garage didn't want to touch this without quoting replacement parts as a proper job.

Transferred the alignment markings to the new washer.

Then put it all back together with a new spring after transferring the rubber spring mounts over. 

Tightened it by hand then jacked under the spring mount until it just started to lift off the axle stand. Then tightened up to the correct torque - 3 ugga duggers on outside and 95nm on the inside as the garage will need to get these undone again soon.

 

That side all done in an hour. My sister, nephew and BIL turned up so I had to pretend to be social for a few hours.

 

Same thing on the other side this evening, just less day light. Roll on longer days!

Looks a bit weird all this shiny new stuff against rusty metal. 🤣

Glad I did the springs to be honest. While the front has new springs + struts already, it appears the rear only had new shocks. 

One spring is noticeably in better condition that the other, so perhaps it had one replacement one time. The right spring on the picture was the original nearside spring.

 

All in it really wasn't a very bad job to be honest. Straightforward and quite pleasant to do. Helped having the right tools like a high powered impact and angle grinder.

 

The rest of the bushes on the rear end aren't in great shape. Also I keep thinking I should replace the front wishbone console bushes. However I need to draw a line under it somewhere. After all it's a nearly 200k vehicle that has zero history, new sills welded on due to rust, an interior that whiffs of cigarettes and an engine chain rattle at startup. So while the bushes are worn, they aren't clonking just yet and it'll be a world of pain trying + expense to replace them all. All to get a car that, isn't an awful example, but neither a really nice example. 

I'll still trackday it hopefully but it's primary duty is a runaround and train station hack that has enough kick and steer to be fun to drive. 

Anyway hopefully it's enough polishing of the turd that it can be aligned up to steer nicely. Despite my best efforts to keep it aligned, the steering wheel is at a 45 degree angle to go straight. 😂

Thankfully good enough that it doesn't drive quite like a drunk donkey. 

[SiC]

It's taken bloody ages to get to this point. 

Let's not talk about how I had to disassemble this who b-pillar trim to retrieve the one screw at the top that holds all this in after it fell down. Good 45mins doing this alone. FFS 

Still didn't come out with a fight. 

Then spent a good hour with a wire brush getting all the old foam and glue off that wasn't already in my hair from removing this.

The best time to do this of course is when Mrs SiC is away and I can get away with having it in the living room!

 

Now to cut up the new fabric and glue it on! Might have some food first though.

 

Then it'll be a big fight getting it back in and all the trim in place. Not really looking forward to that bit. 

[SiC]

Not the best colour match considering the new is supposed to be beige! More like ivory to me. 

That said, the pillar trim is slightly lighter than the roof lining.

Should be a million times better than it was though. Pretty grim having the headlining hitting your head all the time and having bits of foam fall into your hair. 

I think it'll be a close enough match once in and probably won't notice considering its on the ceiling. 

[SiC]

Unhelpful 🤨

[N Dentressangle]

You mean you didn't request a CAT scan?

[SiC]

Finished the headlining and now ready to put back in the car after lunch. 

First attempt last night was going well until I spent a bit too long with the heat gun and burnt the fabric. Oof.

.

Nothing for it except ripping it all off and doing it again. Thankfully I bought double the amount of fabric. 

I didn't buy double the amount of glue so I had to carry on as this lot hadn't fully set. Didn't finish till 2am last night.

 

This morning I trimmed up all the edges and folded it over. Had some other spray glue which I used for these bits. Isn't high temperature resistant (at least the can has no mention of heat resistance levels) but actually was much sticker. Tbh that made it more difficult to work with. 

Then reattached the trim.

What did I learn?

 - It's not hard to do. However it's hard to do well. Experts on videos make it look easy. It's the curved sections that are the hardest parts and trying to avoid bubbles or creases. 

 - Buy spare fabric and glue 

 - 2 meters was enough for one go. I bought 4 metres and still had some spare

 - Heat gun is useful for reshaping the fabric and keeping the glue tacky. 

 - Your cat will want to jump all over it and try scratching it when you're not looking. I'm still removing cat hair from it.

 - While not perfect, I think it turned out pretty well and a million times better than the droopy mess before. Much better than thumb tacks or other bodges.

Now I just need to get it back in without damaging it. 😬

 

[Jazoli]

2 hours ago, SiC said:

Finished the headlining and now ready to put back in the car after lunch. 

First attempt last night was going well until I spent a bit too long with the heat gun and burnt the fabric. Oof.

.

Nothing for it except ripping it all off and doing it again. Thankfully I bought double the amount of fabric. 

I didn't buy double the amount of glue so I had to carry on as this lot hadn't fully set. Didn't finish till 2am last night.

 

This morning I trimmed up all the edges and folded it over. Had some other spray glue which I used for these bits. Isn't high temperature resistant (at least the can has no mention of heat resistance levels) but actually was much sticker. Tbh that made it more difficult to work with. 

Then reattached the trim.

What did I learn?

 - It's not hard to do. However it's hard to do well. Experts on videos make it look easy. It's the curved sections that are the hardest parts and trying to avoid bubbles or creases. 

 - Buy spare fabric and glue 

 - 2 meters was enough for one go. I bought 4 metres and still had some spare

 - Heat gun is useful for reshaping the fabric and keeping the glue tacky. 

 - Your cat will want to jump all over it and try scratching it when you're not looking. I'm still removing cat hair from it.

 - While not perfect, I think it turned out pretty well and a million times better than the droopy mess before. Much better than thumb tacks or other bodges.

Now I just need to get it back in without damaging it. 😬

 

I like that I might do my Passat rooflining after reading that, it’s not as bad yet but it’s only going to get worse.

[SiC]

Christ almighty was that a fight getting it back in. A helper would have been very useful in doing it. I really did not want it taking nearly two days to do. I had the weekend to myself and I really wanted to get on with my Midget. Right now I have a backlog of things left to do in the house and not going to get any more car time this evening.

Also these bastard clips kept falling apart. They go into the metal body work and the trim fixing screw goes through it. The threaded nut thing kept falling out and into awkward places. Usually as I just got one side in then the other side fell out. 

Also discovered the screw cover on the jesus handles acts as a prop when open to stop them closing up. Neat little bit of design there.

 

Anyway it's now in and fully tightened up. Definitely not a job I'd be in a rush to do again.

Colour is obvious different but it's a million times nicer than it was. The headliner is more ivory (even though it was supposed to be beige) and the standard type you usually get in lighter coloured interiors. I'm sure the other trim pieces could be had (or redone) in ivory to make match as it looks like standard VAG light coloured interior. Beige in the Golf I think was a one year option and very rare anyway.

As is, is certainly not horrendous though and a million times nicer than it was. At the very least it's nice not to have it raining foam into your hair every time you close the door. 

 

[N Dentressangle]

Nice job - good work! Headlinings are a proper PITA.

[SiC]

I think next time I'll happily pay the £300 or whatever for someone else to do it 🤣

Under £29 for the materials (4m of fabric and a can of Trim Fix) including postage. Then like 14 hours of my time.