Mechanics' know-how

[OwdChina]

Evenin all,

This is the other side........a proper dogs dinner...and exactly the reason I'm doin it myself.

You know straight away that somethins amiss when you see a mixture of bolts, machine screw and capheads.

Some knobend has put em in with industrial strength thread lock. The bolts that came out were as tight as fuck, all the way.

The one with the snapped head came out with a big pair of flat jaw mole grips. Make sure valve is closed.

 

 

The other one is an example of why it is important important important to get the pilot hole in dead center.

Normally I would have that bastard out with a left hand tap and cap screw, but my left hand stuff is in England, not

gonna snap an easy out in it, so helicoil it is then.

Tapping drill size for M8 is 6.8mm, which is the size to work up to, previously using 3,4 and 5mm. This leaves just the

male threads in the hole. Then try to run a 8mm tap up it, this will NOT cut new threads (aluminium head) but it will

remove the steel screw threads.

 

 

 

Next step is to run an 8.2 drill up the hole, this is the size for the helicoil tap and it will clear out any steel

still in there. Drill it dead square.

 

 

Helicoil tap.

 

 

Helicoil and inserting tool.

 

 

 

She's in.

 

Blow out port.

 

As a certain Mr. Mathews used to say...Bootiful, just bootiful.

 

[Station]

PLusGas is fantastic. I don't know why people insist on persevering with WD40 when it is not a penetrative oil...

WD40 was licensed and trademarked after it was used by Lockheed as a water repellent in the 50s. I don't know what's in PlusGas but it's 100 times more effective than WD40, although it does have its uses.

[red5]

I'd have thought about switching those bolts for studs/nuts tbh...

[OwdChina]

I'd have thought about switching those bolts for studs/nuts tbh...

You'd only be able to do 6 on each side though because there isn't enough room behind the spring tunnel to get the

manifold on with the studs in. The pic makes it look roomier than it is. I like to keep it one or the other but not

both. I only know because that was my original intention. Box of M8 studs and nuts anyone ?

 

[CreepingJesus]

Nice bit of Helicoiling there, sir.

I first came across them in my biking years, for exactly that reason. I knew a guy who was an utter genius with those, but the mechanics I knew regarded them as bodgery of the worst sort!

[OwdChina]

Nice bit of Helicoiling there, sir.

I first came across them in my biking years, for exactly that reason. I knew a guy who was an utter genius with those, but the mechanics I knew regarded them as bodgery of the worst sort!

Thank you Sir CJ.

If the job is done properly helicoils are excellent for aluminium, and stronger than the original thread. There are other

types of insert too, but these are more work and only nessesary if someones fucked up really bad.

Yanking the heads off and dragging them to the machine shop is a last resort I suppose, but things would need to be

pretty desperate before it came to that.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

I love a good helicoil, splendid work there.

[Crusty Sills]

A good quality ratchet screwdriver is great I have a Snap-on with some quality driver bits (not the pound land chocolate ones. And a long shafted (fnaar fnaar) screwdriver is a useful tool, seems to have extra torque.

[PhillipM]

Just a tip on the OP regarding latex/vinyl gloves:

Always wear more than one pair. They will rip, they will get covered in grease, you will want to pull the mucky ones off under the car to fit a new shiny part.

If you have 2 pairs on, when the top ones rip, your hands are still clean, when you need clean hands, just pop the top pair off, fit the shiny new part, put another pair over the top of the still-clean ones. The clean ones can go back in the box so it doesn't cost you any more, and it saves you a lot of time both under the car and cleaning up later.

[New POD]

Nice bit of Helicoiling there, sir.

I first came across them in my biking years, for exactly that reason. I knew a guy who was an utter genius with those, but the mechanics I knew regarded them as bodgery of the worst sort!

And yet they are used all over aircraft and military vehicles (tanks)

[PhillipM]

Because if installed badly, then they work badly. Installed correctly and they're stronger than the original thread.

I can count on one hand how many 'mechanics' I'd trust to actually fit one properly.
 I'd have spare fingers.

[Station]

I have a head with four or five cracked bolts in the manifold. I don't want to try and do this myself, what do 'machine shops' charge for fixing these up?

[Station]

Also, loads of cardboard boxes flattened. These are great for lying on, they're soft, they keep the heat in the little corrugated bit and stop your clothes getting dirty from the floor.

[stripped fred]

Also, loads of cardboard boxes flattened. These are great for lying on, they're soft, they keep the heat in the little corrugated bit and stop your clothes getting dirty from the floor.

Good tip this. I always keep old carbboard boxes for this reason and to put in the back of my car when doing tip runs.

[The Moog]

I have these

 

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/garage-essentials/rolson-6-piece-floor-mat-set-120-x-180cm

 

Brilliant on gravel and wet floors. Don't crumple like cardboard if they get damp.m

 

Or alternatively you get kids play mats cheap/free.

[sierraman]

Best thing I've found is the thick rubber matting we had at work 1/4 inch thick.

[Mr A Lawrence]

The only tools you need.

[fordperv]

Along the lines of things to lie on, i use a large offcut of vinyl flooring to lie on, bloody brilliant it is

[fatharris]

[DSdriver]

Run out of penetrating fluid?  Just use diesel. It penetrates really well, usually from inside fuel pipe couplings.

[dave21478]

Along the lines of things to lie on, i use a large offcut of vinyl flooring to lie on, bloody brilliant it is

 

Yeah, when I have spare time I mooch around carpet shops and snag large-ish offcuts and roll ends of lino for garage work.

[twosmoke300]

When using big cardboard boxes as a mat to lie on , make sure you take those massive sharp staples out first ! 😱

[Bear]

Dead simple, probably telling grandma how to suck eggs.

 

Working on hubs, suspension and other stuff on cars with antiroll bars.

 

Whichever your preferred route to getting to the bits is, whether it's for dampers, droplinks or coils or more complex stuff.

 

Jack up both sides. Even if it looks like it'll be easy to just lift the one side, you end up fighting the ARB. Examples - droplinks on my last MGF - easy to jack on the centre point fortunately. And the front coils on my SLK; undo both shock absorbers at the top, loosen wheel bolts, jack up both sides, remove wheels, use the proper spring compressor and it's under 40 minutes to do both with no arguing with the tools whatsoever (assuming you've got the right combo of spanners/sockets to undo the locknut arrangement on the damper, anyway).

 

Changing rev counter bulbs on Avantime

 

Just lie on your back in the footwell and reach up with a 6mm socket on a thumb drive or wrapped in grippy stuff. Careful around the wires to the pedals, but you can get all three bulbs out - use the same socket with a bit of bluetack to stop the new bulbs falling out and it'll be done in five minutes. Rather easier than the clip-breaking misery of stripping the whole dash, as described in the workshop manual.

 

Factory Hose Clips - Clic type

 

Don't get pissed off. Get the proper tool. Once you get the knack right, they're quicker to remove, apply less twist to narrow plastic lines, and are quicker to do than jubilee clips. They do need a reasonably strong grip unsurprisingly. I used to hate the damn things, but now I'd much rather be confronted with them than a load of ragged jubilee clips with half-chewed screwdriver slots. Along the same lines, those little plastic hose clamps with the loop to hold them closed - insanely useful for the cost, and as most are bright colours, they draw attention to the thing you've clamped.

 

Similar reason - I always leave the dipstick half out on cars when I'm working on bits that will be a disaster if I start it. Can't close the bonnet and forget the job isn't finished, then start the car - unlikely to start car without looking at engine if I'm reaching through the window, and I'm going to see it through the windscreen/gap of the bonnet if I get in. More useful on cars with bright coloured dipsticks.

[OwdChina]

I have a head with four or five cracked bolts in the manifold. I don't want to try and do this myself, what do 'machine shops' charge for fixing these up?

Well it depends on how easy it is to get to the damaged studs etc. If there is plenty of room all round and the job can be done without head removal it's gona cost the hourly rate plus materials at an engine rebuilders, or a good machine shop.

Remember, just removing the broken stud is the main objective, not helicoiling a usable threaded hole.

If the head has to come off then things are gona get more expensive, but it is easier to work on stuff when it's on the bench. 

As a side job for a workshop guy, with the manifold etc. removed, your looking at a couple of hours work and 50 quid, approx.

If however 1 of your studs has snapped at 45 degree angle below the machined surface then the head will have to come off regardless and the hole drilled out with a slot mill cutter......on a miller.

Take it to a machine shop and get an opinion.

Helicoil is only a last resort if the threads are stripped or the threads are stuck.

[rainagain]

One problem I've had with helicoils is if the hole is deeper than the helicoil, when I use the punch to knock off the tang sometimes the last coil jumps a thread and is then a total pain to get back in. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Other than that problem now and again I've found them to be excellent.

[OwdChina]

One problem I've had with helicoils is if the hole is deeper than the helicoil, when I use the punch to knock off the tang sometimes the last coil jumps a thread and is then a total pain to get back in. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Other than that problem now and again I've found them to be excellent.

You need to give it a good sharp tap with as big a punch as will fit, 20 thou clearance........to stop any chance of the insert last thread jumping its locating thread. Also check your drill size for the helicoil tap is not slightly oversize, depending on the material your helicoiling, you need a fully formed thread for the insert.

[twosmoke300]

Ahh , I also have that trouble every now and again .

[PhillipM]

The only tools you need. image.jpeg

[Dead_E23]

Those additions to the decision tree have the ring of truth to them.

 

Anyway.  Whenever I'm draining fluids, particularly oil, I put a Tuffspot under the drain pan.  They're sold as a mixing board for building jobs, but have a lip deep enough to catch a huge spill and can be wiped out with diesel etc when filthy. 

 

My drive still looks a mess, but it would be a hundred times worse if I didn't use one of these every time I drag a washing bowl brim full of oil from beneath the car and then optimistically try to pour it back into the empty oil can using a huge funnel that makes the whole thing topple over.

 

I'm told that the remedy for oily drives is a liberal sprinkling of biological washing powder, which is then damped down with a watering can of water.  I need to try that out before the drive is too far gone!

[Danblez]

This is the absolute dogs danglies for removing oil off anything including drives.

 

Much better than washing powder.

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/review/product/view/id/9467/