Boring CMax gone over the bridge

[rainagain]

5 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Is the bolt spinning with the gun or not? Happy to be corrected but I'm 90% sure it's not a captive nut on the other end.

Def is a captive nut as I’ve already changed the other side and it’s just a bolt. 

[sierraman]

Will it drive? I’d be tempted to put it back together and limp it somewhere with the proper facilities. I’m looking at these photos in the pitch black and rain, it does not look fun. 

[rainagain]

Just now, sierraman said:

Will it drive? I’d be tempted to put it back together and limp it somewhere with the proper facilities. I’m looking at these photos in the pitch black and rain, it does not look fun. 

I don’t even have a driveway it’s just grass and yes it’s shit. I could have done this on my dad’s drive but I thought a couple of wishbones, nothing I’ve not done before and it shouldn’t be too bad…

[RoverFolkUs]

2 minutes ago, rainagain said:

Def not a captive nut as I’ve already changed the other side and it’s just a bolt. 

Hang on there must be a captive nut then if just a bolt came out? It's certainly not threaded into the subframe, there must be a captive nut on/in the other end. 

If there's a nut and it's not captive then that makes it a bit easier as you can just cut it from inside the subframe and replace it. A captive nut you're going to have to extract the remaining thread which is equally an arse. 

[sierraman]

I know but there’s no shame in an absolutely shite job like that going to the garage, it’s hard to explain how slightly more pleasant it is to be approaching this job at shoulder height. In the light...

[rainagain]

2 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Hang on there must be a captive nut then if just a bolt came out? It's certainly not threaded into the subframe, there must be a captive nut on/in the other end. 

If there's a nut and it's not captive then that makes it a bit easier as you can just cut it from inside the subframe and replace it. A captive nut you're going to have to extract the remaining thread which is equally an arse. 

Sorry I miss typed that there is a captive nut welded to the subframe. If there was a nut I’d just chop it off and punch the bolt through. 

[sierraman]

If the bolt is turning then it’s obviously busted loose out of the captive bolt so once you’ve cut the arms off then should be straightforward to back it out. Get the good blades and expect to go through a few!

[RoverFolkUs]

Just checked, captive nut in the subframe. Great, that'll be a pisser.

If the bolt is spinning freely now then the captive nut has broken off. If the bolt head is seized then the captive nut is fixed in place. If it's moving a bit then the threads are probably moving in the nut so you might be lucky there

Ideally you'd be able to have a look at the threads in the captive nut to see if they're moving. If they're not then you're fucked short of cutting a hole in the subframe and welding it back together. Not ideal

I'll guess that the bolt isn't seized in the nut itself as you say the subframe wants to deform if you continue to undo it. 

[grogee]

If it were me I'd be waiting for daylight! You've got the worst of all worlds: cold, dark, wet floor. A bit of daylight might help.

You will probably end up having to saw something, so as the experts say, do yourself a favour and get good blades.

Do you have to do the other side afterwards or is it already done?

[rainagain]

3 minutes ago, grogee said:

If it were me I'd be waiting for daylight! You've got the worst of all worlds: cold, dark, wet floor. A bit of daylight might help.

You will probably end up having to saw something, so as the experts say, do yourself a favour and get good blades.

Do you have to do the other side afterwards or is it already done?

Other side already done thank fully

[Dobloseven]

Seem to recall something of the sort with an early New Generation Transit(around D reg), many moons ago. An angle grinder became involved in the proceedings along with a new bolt. 

[Barry Cade]

Yup, just cut through the arm, chop the bush away and get Vise grips on the sleeve and buzz the bolt out. The arm and bush are sacrificial.. butcher these to save the subframe. The time for heat guns and wd40 are long past. Time to go  ape. It can be quite satisfying.

[rainagain]

Just now, Barry Cade said:

Yup, just cut through the arm, chop the bush away and get Vise grips on the sleeve and buzz the bolt out. The arm and bush are sacrificial.. butcher these to save the subframe. The time for heat guns and wd40 are long past. Time to go  ape. It can be quite satisfying.

Yep time to get brutal!

[RoverFolkUs]

...and provide infinite motivation for getting the job done as getting the new arm in its the only way of making it mobile again 

[rainagain]

Just now, RoverFolkUs said:

...and provide infinite motivation for getting the job done as getting the new arm in its the only way of making it mobile again 

Whilst fighting the urge to bridge it…

[JMotor]

1 hour ago, rainagain said:

I don’t even have a driveway it’s just grass and yes it’s shit.

You have my sympathy. Because it is shit. 

But I do hope you win the battle with the suspension arm. Only as I've been there too. 

[Dobloseven]

Get an angle grinder with a cutting disc on it. The bolt is going to be made of tough stuff. A cheapo one and a packet of discs will cost less than an hours labour at a garage. Assuming you've not got one already. 

[RoverFolkUs]

Just a quick word of advice, get on the phone to your local Ford dealer and order the bolt now, then it might arrive by the time you're ready to use it

[Barry Cade]

I don't think there will be enough clearance to cut the bolt without cutting into the subframe? Cutting the head off the bolt may mike life more difficult.

The offer of assistance still stands!

[Dobloseven]

12 hours ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Just a quick word of advice, get on the phone to your local Ford dealer and order the bolt now, then it might arrive by the time you're ready to use it

Good point, it's most probably a dealer only part. But wouldn't think they'll be open till Monday morning. In the meantime cutting the arm away and carefully grinding the sleeve away with the edge of a grinding disc might weaken it enough to relinquish its grip on the bolt enabling it to be reused after a good wire brushing. Screwfix, B&Q, Machine Mart etc. are open on Sundays for grinders and discs,main dealers aren't. When it's all done, step back and have a sip of cold tea with all black bits in it and get a nice warm feeling of a job well done. Good luck. 

[rainagain]

After the failure to start issue, the seized bush, broken spring, leaking gearbox and the fact the mot has run out meant today was it’s last drive.

Ironically enough it started fine, no more dash problems.

Poor thing doesn’t know what’s coming

And up it goes, it was smoking like a right bastard as he gave it the beans to get it on the back, probably because it’s been sitting around a few months.

Bye bye

[RoverFolkUs]

Thank fuck for that

[AnnoyingPentium]

*cue all the people now saying they'd have saved it*

But beyond that, this was the best call IMO, god knows what other issues were behind what you could see.

[rainagain]

5 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Thank fuck for that

Indeed, so nice to look out my window and not see it sitting there. 

[sierraman]

I can’t believe it’s not been saved, at last count there were only 4,652 of the 2.0 TDCI Ghia on the road. Is anyone up for A framing it back from the scrapyard and writing to the DVLA to appeal the COD? 🤣