PrinceRupert's Cars - MG4 and TVR Tuscan

[PrinceRupert]

It arrived this morning courtesy of @worldofceri

Battery is flat so it is on charge to try and get some power on it.  MOT Friday, wish me luck!  So as of yet, no idea how it drives.  No fault codes though!

There are a few immediate things I have noticed that need looking at.  

• Rear o/s door doesn't lock.  Looks like Richard has tried to fix possibly as there are various door lock bits kicking around the car.  Not sure if it needs a new actuator. 
• Air con doesn't work.  Never just needs a regas does it. 
• Slam panel isn't bolted down but I think the bolts are in the boot.
• 6 CD Changer doesn't seem to read CDs, but the one in the cabin does so no biggy. 
• Condensation in one of the headlights
• The power steering fluid doesn't look too healthy - perhaps condensation from sitting around and needs flushed and replaced, or something more serious?
• One key, wonder how much a spare is. 

Tips on any of the above problems welcome. Sadly no such thing as a Haynes manual for an X350...

[Broadsword]

Good luck with it, a fantastic roffle win!! I'm sure it will pass an MOT without too much hassle. I had a XJ6 like this once and had that exact issue with the power steering fluid. I flushed it as best I could but water was clearly getting in somewhere. At the time I was worried there was a leak on the transmission cooler line in the radiator somewhere, but never got to investigate it as the transmission began to fail shortly after.

[worldofceri]

Good to meet you, Mr Rupert.

 I have Jag envy.

[Cento16v]

Door lock will probably be the latch, they are super common, and also not expensive thankfully.

Condensation should disappear if you leave the lights on for a bit if it's not too bad.

Key fob can be replaced without programming from a dealer, but transponder part will need coding in, I presume car key people have their ways now.

Condensers used to leak, has it been attempted to be re gassed?

[Cento16v]

And get that fluid changed, it looks rank!

[PrinceRupert]

Never changed power steering fluid before.  Is it as simple as unclipping a hose, letting it empty, filling it back up?  Or does it need bled etc.  If the former, will do it myself. If the latter, will get the garage to do it on Friday.

[Bear]

Door lock bits are from the driver's door tension spring breaking - you should have some of the new (fierce as) tension springs I got to repair it, and the door handle I bought on eBay as a spare before discovering it too had a duff tension spring. The failed spring was making the driver's door not lock because it held the inside lock button open.

Plastic fittings for the slam panel are indeed in the boot - at least, as many as I had for it. You will also find two crosshead screws which I THINK are the ones for the foglight I removed to get to the washer bottle - I went to fit them but forgot the big blade screwdriver to unclip the trim. They might be wrong, but if they aren't the foglight screws I'm stumped as to where the proper ones are - there are two on the other side so you could use one per side until getting another pair. You'll also find the OSR courtesy/handle light is removed - I went to change a bulb and found it had a broken clip so planned to replace it, a full set of handles and lights was £15 on eBay but I got distracted.

Spare key about £35 - but you need to get it programmed with Jag tool of some sort. You can program a second fob though.

CD changer was working 100% before - it could have gone wrong I suppose, but I was using it - so let the car finish charging (it's had most of the year on a battery conditioner, and only went flat during winter and being stuck at the office after I'd left the lights on and couldn't charge it up anywhere easily). The battery should recover - today's FTP was ignition on no start, not DOA, and that was however many weeks after starting and a short run.

PAS fluid change strongly advised, they're fussy - I didn't realise it was so manky! Would have noticed if I was using it but, this is why it's roffled, not being used!

Arch liner/bumper undertray will make it look 10x better. Perhaps more breakers around London, and speaking of breakers...

I doubt the A/C just needs a regas, but I think - 80% confidence - it needs a condenser and new seals. Condenser should be <£100 and easy enough to swap over if the system isn't pressurised. It has obvious UV reactive leaking around the union from pipe to condenser

 

[PrinceRupert]

Thanks Richard, all very helpful input.  I also very much doubt the A/C needs a regas   Did you notice hot air on only passenger side?  I just took it for a very quick run round the block and couldn't seem to get heat out of driver side.   Also, front suspension seems to be a bit creaky, but not knocking.  Anyone know what that might be?

[Bear]

Hot air on driver's side takes a while - it's the matrix, it needs more flushing than I accomplished but I'd only just replaced all the coolant. It's decent, proper mixed, OAT so give it time and miles to circulate...

Creaking is probably cold and lack of use at the moment. It didn't creak when being used - but obviously sitting a while can change things.

[Bear]

Oh, the coffee jar contains spare door card pins. Bought in anticipation when fixing the mirror and not needed but handy. May also have some of the old undertray bolts.

[Bear]

3 hours ago, PrinceRupert said:

Never changed power steering fluid before.  Is it as simple as unclipping a hose, letting it empty, filling it back up?  Or does it need bled etc.  If the former, will do it myself. If the latter, will get the garage to do it on Friday.

Correct approach is to undo hoses and run it through with fresh from one supply and old into waste, I believe, but you could pela what's in the tank, refill, run through, pela, run through etc. to dilute the mank. Much advice out there on what to use as the correct fluid.

[GeordieInExile]

I'm so jealous. Lovely car in the best colour. 

[PrinceRupert]

 A first bunch of service items on order, will do an oil and filters change and change the power steering fluid. 

It calls for 5W-30 but have a lot of 5W-40 in the shed so will probably just use that, high miles so slightly thicker should be fine, right?

Will also order a door lock actuator from ebay - 37.68.  Also the rear sun blind doesn't work.  I have one in the 75 and never use it, but still want it to work...so might try to find a motor rebuild kit which I think exist.

[Cento16v]

I'd use the proper oil it needs.

They do shit bottom ends if not looked after.

[PrinceRupert]

7 minutes ago, Cento16v said:

I'd use the proper oil it needs.

They do shit bottom ends if not looked after.

Ah for the sake of 40 quid I might as well then ...

[PrinceRupert]

Little bit of additional investigation pre-MOT, might try and get the wheels off and a proper look today, but might not have time.  Brake lines are looking a bit crusty, will try and brush and grease if I have time.  Track rod end boots are split on both sides - MOT fail or just an advisory?

[Cento16v]

I believe that would be a failure.

Will any of these fit it?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-14Pcs-BALL-JOINT-ROD-LINKAGES-END-DUST-BOOT-COVERS-SUSPENSION-STEERING-/304177488721?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

[dome]

Lovely looking car this, I'm coming round to this shape of XJ and this is a great colour.

I had an early S Type and thought the CD changer didn't work, until I worked out that the CDs go in upside down...

For the door latch I'd try and disable it for the MOT so it's open, otherwise you might get a fail for a non-opening door.

That brake line (is it definitely a brake line?) doesn't look too clever and that track rod boot will be a fail.  

Good luck with the MOT, hope it's not too painful. Will be a cracking car when it's done!

[PrinceRupert]

Rear left doesn't look to bad.  Track rod end boots split both front and back so will need replaced.  Put a bit of grease on the rusty brake line.  Not sure what is going on with the rubber piece on top of what i assume is a drop link.  

 

Unfortunately I cannot seem to get the other rear wheel off ... seem to have a rounded wheel bolt  

[wesacosa]

4 minutes ago, PrinceRupert said:

Rear left doesn't look to bad.  Track rod end boots split both front and back so will need replaced.  Put a bit of grease on the rusty brake line.  Not sure what is going on with the rubber piece on top of what i assume is a drop link.  

 

Unfortunately I cannot seem to get the other rear wheel off ... seem to have a rounded wheel bolt  

I have a full set of Irwin sockets if you wanna try one to get that nut off. I assume one will be big enough.  Would mean you would probably be best placed having a replacement first though

[wesacosa]

might need to check its slim enough to get through the hole in the alloy wheel though

[PrinceRupert]

No problem got it off with an impact socket and a hammer.  Ordered a replacement.

I think it is these that need replaced, nice and cheap:  https://www.jagspares.co.uk/product/rear-suspension-stabilising-link-(x350,-xk,-xf,-x351)/c2d51044**1***?gclid=Cj0KCQiAosmPBhCPARIsAHOen-NyFx0edlqz3lokhfN1B1s828q60PMEEnkykaSmYIAtN2epgY24rJ4aArOGEALw_wcB

Other than the crusty brake line the rear looks okay. Subframe has seen better days but seems solid.

Filled her up with screen wash and trying to get the condensation out the lights. Will try and get the fronts off this afternoon to see if any obvious problems. 

[Jazoli]

2 hours ago, PrinceRupert said:

Little bit of additional investigation pre-MOT, might try and get the wheels off and a proper look today, but might not have time.  Brake lines are looking a bit crusty, will try and brush and grease if I have time.  Track rod end boots are split on both sides - MOT fail or just an advisory?

The brake lines need replacing not brushing and greasing, they look knackered to me, your picture of the greased line does not inspire confidence, its thin wall pipe with 1400psi running through it and it's lost a percentage of its wall strength through corrosion.

[PrinceRupert]

28 minutes ago, Jazoli said:

The brake lines need replacing not brushing and greasing, they look knackered to me, your picture of the greased line does not inspire confidence, its thin wall pipe with 1400psi running through it and it's lost a percentage of its wall strength through corrosion.

Fair comment, not something I would tackle myself, so might go on the list for the garage to do.  

Front wheels off, looks okay to my untrained eye, the undertray clearly needs replaced, it's a bit oily down there so must be a leak from somewhere.  

[Cento16v]

+1 on brake pipes.

They look like part of the titanic, they shouldn't cost much to get done.

[PrinceRupert]

One last problem identified for today as I took it for a very quick spin round the block.   Good news is the brakes seem fine, I know Richard had flagged they might need a service.   The problem is a chirping from the engine bay that increases with revs.  I assume aux belt though wasn't obviously the problem from listening in the engine bay.

[Bear]

The sun blind does work. Give it a poke out of the holder and it will keep working if used regularly, then sticks when it's settled in and not used for a while.

[Bear]

5 hours ago, PrinceRupert said:

Fair comment, not something I would tackle myself, so might go on the list for the garage to do.  

Front wheels off, looks okay to my untrained eye, the undertray clearly needs replaced, it's a bit oily down there so must be a leak from somewhere.  

Leaks aside, I had the radiator off and there's a small amount of oil spill (topped up) from the ATF cooler.

[PrinceRupert]

18 minutes ago, RichardK said:

The sun blind does work. Give it a poke out of the holder and it will keep working if used regularly, then sticks when it's settled in and not used for a while.

Aha you are correct, good tug and up it came

[timolloyd]

4 hours ago, PrinceRupert said:

Aha you are correct, good tug and up it came

Oo er 😂