Grogee's spannering (Maestro & Mondeo IV). MONDEO MISERY

[Con2K]

To add slightly more confusion/clarity, the mk4 mondeo had two main revisions for pre and post facelift. Within this there are at least two pre facelift revisions at approx 09 which include wiring harness changes, module changes among other things. I know they binned off adaptive cruise control for a period due to failures. Mechanical changes including power outputs for the diesels and a complete engine change for the flagship petrol from the 2.5 5pot (Focus ST/Volvo) engine to the 2.0 4cyl ecoboost.

 

Furthermore, the facelift Mk4.5 mondeo had a few revisions from its 2010/2011 release through to the v.late registered 2014 examples. This can help pin point changes when sourcing parts. The below is a rough guide most notably seen on TXS estates;

Mk4.5a: Full height roof bars, clear headlights, removable ashtray next to 12v socket with cig lighter (smokers ‘pack’). Aux in/USB aux located in glovebox. Nav units (with or without reverse cam, denoted by a silver or a black edged volume knob), did not have DAB function.

Mk4.5b: Full height roof bars, black headlights, removable ashtray replaced by a rubber mat next to 12v socket and 12v blank instead of lighter. Aux in/USB aux located in armrest not glovebox. No DAB with Nav units. TPMS was removed as standard fit and not offered as an option going fwd.

Mk4.5c: Slimline roof bars, black headlights, rubber mat as above, Aux in arm rest and no DAB with nav.

Mk4.5d: No roof bars at all. Black headlights, rubber mat, Aux in armrest, no DAB with nav.

Mk4.5e: No roof bars. Black headlights, rubber mat, aux in armrest rest, DAB now included in Nav units. **Most of these v.late cars were built with the ‘climate pack’; Sunroof, iR windscreen (noticeable by red tint) and rear window blinds.

 

There are of course mixed variations or th runroof option ticked by buyers which impacted roof bars too, but this is a basic rule of thumb. I’d be very keen to know which facelift car has the DAB module included, but not enabled, out of this little lot.

[grogee]

OK the verdict is in... 

I didn't win the Mk4.5 lottery this time. 

I did find an unused multiplug above the glovebox where the Scottish gentleman said there would be one, but it wasn't the 10-way jobbie I was hoping for. 

I had a good look inside the glovebox cavity in case there was another one hiding, but nothing else seems available. Slim chance it'll be a 'spare' connector into the HU but I'm not holding out much hope. 

There's more than one way to skin a cat though. I can get DAB via an external unit (Kinetic Digitizor) that pipes its feed into the FM antenna socket and uses RDS to show the station details. I'll just need to be a bit clever about splicing into the FM aerial feed. And finding a switched 12v source. 

Flushed with the sweet scent of failure, I moved onto looking at the stiff driver's door handle. I removed the door card and applied plenty of white grease to work into the mech, so we'll see if there's any improvement. 

[grogee]

Took the driver's seat out of Monty (naming cars etc). 

They have a problem where the often-used seat wears out its bushes on the linkage frame which manifests itself as a slight (but annoying) wobble when you get in and sit down. TADTS. 

Bought a bush kit specifically for mk4 Mondeo seats, and of course it didn't fit. Fortunately I have a 16mm drill bit and once I'd removed the runners and frame from the rest of the seat I was able to enlarge the problem hole and insert the washer. The shoulder bolts then fit through this. 

I was pleasantly surprised that my Chinese 16mm drill bit was able to get through 4mm pressed steel plate. 

It's then a case of fiddling the bits back together. For reasons known only to Lear, one of the seat runner allen bolts is not captive but also is shrouded so you can't get a tool onto it... Great job guys. A combination of needle nosed pliers and a cut-down Allen key sorted that out. 

Quite fun looking at the seat and seeing all its workings, including the fan for bum cooling in the summer. 

 

[Surface Rust]

Well done for making a proper repair.

My solution would have been a lot more rudimentary...

[grogee]

I'm a complete tool. Spent the last few days pulling my hair out, wondering why I can't adjust the low beam aim on the Mondeo. 

Initially I thought it was this adjuster:

turned and turned it to no effect. Then went through the Forscan procedure thinking it would be adjusted electronically, but the procedure just prompts me to 'adjust headlamp aim using proper equipment' or some such. 

Then had another look at headlamps for sale, and noticed this... 

This adjuster, buried at the bottom of the light, does the up/down. The other one I had been turning does the left/right aim (I think), or possibly main beam adjust. 

Anyway, glad I've found it. When it goes in for mot I'll get them to set it correctly with their beam checker. 

I've also found a useful guide for auto box fluid change. While the book says 'fill for life' it does actually have drain and fill plugs so it's possible to change the fluid. 

It's a bit of an arse to do, as it requires the engine to be running while level is set underneath by removing the level plug, and also it needs the fluid to be between 50-60° C. 

So I've asked my mate Adam if I can borrow his ramp in Jan which will be easier than trying to jack it on my stupid patchwork driveway. 

 

 

[grogee]

Adam's garage again, note quattro at far end. 

Service time for the Mondingo. And a chance to get underneath and check for rust. 

Rust found:

I made some rust potion in the week following this recipe provided by AI. The kitchen smelled weird afterward but it is quite effective and cheap to make. 

I didn't have time to go full rust protect on everything but I did use the last of my Lanoguard on the rear subframe, more as an experiment than anything else. We'll see what MoT man says in the Spring. (Note cable tie on exhaust mounting - also an experiment! I will source a proper replacement soon.) 

Also did a couple of changes of the transmission fluid. Definitely worth doing, the changes are quicker and smoother and it just feels better now. The old stuff was horrible and stank of death. 

The Mondeo is quite wide and it was a real squeeze getting into and out of the driver's seat between the posts of the lift to start and stop the engine. Flushing the fluid is a bit tedious but not too bad, I used Foreskin to monitor transmission fluid temp then once it was above 50°C removed level plug as car was running to set the level correctly. 

I had a total brain fart though. To get the main drain plug out of the gearbox, I needed a 17mm Allen socket/key. I'd specifically bought a set which said it had that size but when I looked at them, none of them seemed to be big enough. 

So I spent ages thinking of a work around with what I had around me - a 17mm headed bolt with a couple of nuts locked together. I was convinced it wouldn't work as the plug was on super tight but this lot and the impact driver removed it, phew. 

Then when I got home I realised I DID have the correct Allen bit after all, it was just that I was looking at it backwards and didn't realise how to use it - it's a 10mm shank with a 17mm head. Flippin eejit. 

You're supposed to replace the drain and level plugs each time but there's really no need. I did replace the seals though - one rubber O-ring and one aluminum washer. £10 for assorted sets of both which will last me a lifetime, instead of £18 for the plug set - fuck that. 

I spent the money on 20 litres of Mannol transmission fluid instead. I've still got about 12 litres left should I decide to do it again in the future. 

Anyway, oil and filter done too so OK for another 12 months hopefully. 

[Sunny Jim]

Good work around. You do realise that now, just like Starmer, your lad will be able to say, 'My father was a toolmaker'.

[grogee]

Moar headlight twatting about. 

Despite cleaning the lenses, I'm still not happy with the output. There are replacement reflector and lens kits out there but they're £60ish and I've decided the main culprit is the reflectors. 

Here they are before treatment. The silver paint/plating above the bulb has deteriorated, presumably from the heat over 14 years. My theory is that this top part of the reflector is the important bit for dip beam, as I think the fish eye lens inverts the beam. 

So rather than fix properly I'm having a go at bodging with some chrome effect paint. 

Sanded the surface with 1200 grit then cleaned with alcohol, then sprayed a couple of coats on. 

Repeated the process then bolted the lights back together but disaster struck. 

As I was fitting the assembly back into the light, I heard a horrible crunching noise... The lens bit had been forced into the plastic chrome 'ring' bit of the main body of the headlight and snapped bits of it off. 

To compound matters, my pound shop superglue tube failed and spilled superglue all over my hands. It was awkward sticking the bits back as there's no access through the clear front plastic cover. 

Made the best of a bad job and refitted to car. Haven't tested yet but we'll see if there's any difference next time I drive at night. 

Bit confused as to why it crumbled, the other side went together without drama. Plastic shifted due to heat maybe? 

[grogee]

Today I changed the oil on the nu_Mrs Grogee's Rennow Captur. 

It's done 6000ish miles since new, and the service schedule says it isn't due until second service at 2 years/24k. Which is mental. 

It's only 3.5 ish litres as well. No chance I'm leaving it in there for that time. I bought the oil, £30 for 5 litres and it's the proper spec. But fuck paying Elf £60 for the same stuff. 

In the olden days cars would have a service after run-in to get rid of all the swarf and shit, I still think this is a good idea. 

Someone on here told me Purflux was the OEM supplier of the oil filter. Wrong! 

New filter came from the dealer and was expensive, but I mainly just wanted to ensure it was the correct part. 

Anyway, 20 minutes to do oil and filter, and 45 minutes fucking about with the undertray. Which is some sort of fibre-plastic bullshit that you're supposed to peel back but that was impractical on my drive. It's held in by about 10 bolts and 3 clips but is sandwiched between various bits of bumper and aero trim. 

To be fair it's partly my fault for trying to put one of the clips in the bolt holes when I was refitting it but fuxache just use one or the other, not a mixture you twats. 

Also my fault: dropping my ratchet in the old oil. Other than that, plain sailing. 

[Jazoli]

48 minutes ago, grogee said:

Today I changed the oil on the nu_Mrs Grogee's Rennow Captur. 

It's done 6000ish miles since new, and the service schedule says it isn't due until second service at 2 years/24k. Which is mental. 

It's only 3.5 ish litres as well. No chance I'm leaving it in there for that time. I bought the oil, £30 for 5 litres and it's the proper spec. But fuck paying Elf £60 for the same stuff. 

In the olden days cars would have a service after run-in to get rid of all the swarf and shit, I still think this is a good idea. 

Someone on here told me Purflux was the OEM supplier of the oil filter. Wrong! 

New filter came from the dealer and was expensive, but I mainly just wanted to ensure it was the correct part. 

Anyway, 20 minutes to do oil and filter, and 45 minutes fucking about with the undertray. Which is some sort of fibre-plastic bullshit that you're supposed to peel back but that was impractical on my drive. It's held in by about 10 bolts and 3 clips but is sandwiched between various bits of bumper and aero trim. 

To be fair it's partly my fault for trying to put one of the clips in the bolt holes when I was refitting it but fuxache just use one or the other, not a mixture you twats. 

Also my fault: dropping my ratchet in the old oil. Other than that, plain sailing. 

Seems odd self servicing a year old car that’s under manufacturers warranty, I guess you’ve bought outright rather than a PCP or lease deal? I’ve only just moved to Indy servicing on the wife’s Captur last year as its warranty expired.

curious about the air jack, I’ve always been cautious of them, is it any good?

[Cookiesouwest]

1 hour ago, Jazoli said:

Seems odd self servicing a year old car that’s under manufacturers warranty, I guess you’ve bought outright rather than a PCP or lease deal? I’ve only just moved to Indy servicing on the wife’s Captur last year as its warranty expired.

curious about the air jack, I’ve always been cautious of them, is it any good?

OE filter fitted.

They will never know

 

[grogee]

30 minutes ago, Jazoli said:

Seems odd self servicing a year old car that’s under manufacturers warranty, I guess you’ve bought outright rather than a PCP or lease deal? I’ve only just moved to Indy servicing on the wife’s Captur last year as its warranty expired.

curious about the air jack, I’ve always been cautious of them, is it any good?

Belt and braces really. She bought it outright. I'm anticipating it staying around for some time/its lifetime so I'm just making sure it doesn't shit itself later on. It will still get the scheduled services and they'll never know I've been there. 

The air jack is OK, not perfect. It's quite large as you can see so not as able to get in tight spots. The open and close valves are easy to mix up if you're not careful. I haven't tried it on my Mondeo yet which is really low, I fear it may not be able to get under without driving onto some sleepers or similar. 

[grogee]

Well I needn't have worried about jacking up the Mondeo. My air jack fitted in nicely with room for a safety block of wood. 

Today's job was rear brake pads. They were an advisory on last mot so I treated it to some Brembos. 

I remember doing rear pads on the Avensis that is now @dollywobbler's. 

They probably took about an hour including taking the caliper brackets off and cleaning them up. 

This won't be news to Mondeo owners but they are a bit of a cunt on this car. I'm sure they are easy enough when the car is new but mine is 14 years old now and is as crusty as you'd expect at the back. 

In fact that was another advisory item: 'corrosion inner rear wheel arch' although it didn't seem worth mentioning to me. All the same, I wanted to get behind those stupid wheel arch liners which are made from soggy cloth, instead of proper plastic items you get on proper cars. 

Anyway access to each and every bolt for this job is poor for one reason or another, and the bolt heads were all crusted over so I had to spend a while wire wheeling them. 

While I was there I pulled about 900ml of old brake fluid out. It was a bit of a gamble because the bleed nipples looked quite far gone, but I doused them in WD then did the old 'tighten first then loosen a fraction' back and forth a few times. 

Offside sliders were fine but nearside wasn't, stuck fast. At this point any sensible person goes and buys a caliper bracket from a motor factors, but this is me, plus my car was immobile and there's nowhere in walking distance. 

Sliders responded well to a good clean up with wire wheel and a fresh smear of silicone grease. 

Of course it rained because this is Britain and we can't have nice things. I ignored it and carried on. 

It's got those calipers that need winding back, for which you require about eight hands. I used one of the caliper mounts to hold it still while I worked the tool, which helps. Still a fiddly fucker though because my caliper turning tool has lost one of the pegs that turns the adapter. I really need to weld another one back in. Maybe tomorrow. 

It's all back together and I've splashed a load of Vactan in the rear arches. From what I've read, this is supposed to be a one-coat wonder, ie paint and forget, but it feels just like every other rust converter I've used - Shirley it needs some paint over the top of it? 

Jobs for near future - handbrake cables both sides. Hopefully mot man will turn a blind eye to the fraying. 

At least it's a manual handbrake, and not French-electric. 

[Bren]

Calipers on these are practically service items. All of ours have been replaced.

These seldom get scabby up top. But they often look grim underneath.

[Con2K]

Love to see the preventative maintenance on this.

headlight reflectors: is that a chrome finish? That’ll help. But the projector lenses ‘burn’ and discolour over yrs and the lens themselves are a part of the kits you can buy and make the biggest difference.

subframe rust is common. Oh so common. My front one is pretty good and not a concern, the rear has heavy surface. I’ve decided to renew my rear springs and rear spring cups/arms. In doing so, this replaces 66% of the areas that seem to flag as a corrosion to subframe risk and also gives you brand new adjustable camber bolts to get the alignment dialled in. So something to consider at a later date maybe?

In addition, mine has identical rust on the rear boot floor/wheel well but made worse by my rear heat shield having been removed/binned when the exhaust system was replaced. Many yrs/miles later, i’m now casually looking for a replacement to save half of my spare wheel well surface finish from getting worse.

I’ve been distracted by sound deadening the inside. All of it. Everything is too heavy now but it’s sounding substantially better inside. When i do the rear end suspension i’ll likely wire knot wheel the subframe areas and lanoguard it. I am yet to remove the arch liners but at 100k more than RNZ, i suspect it’ll need some TLC. 
 

(I also just clean up the rear caliper sliders with a wire wheel and lube. Job done)

 

best of luck!

[grogee]

Thanks for advice @Con2K. I do have a set of lenses and reflectors from CHY-NAH but they went to my Dad's house instead of here, so I haven't fitted them yet. 

This morning's job was to replace those soggy bastarding wheel arch liners. 

I remember on my Puma, I took the fabric arch liners off in the summertime, jetwashed them, dried them in the sun then treated them with that brick sealant stuff which I've forgotten the name of. Something for the summer maybe. 

Then ducked underneath and replaced this exhaust mount. It doesn't seem to do much but it shows willing to an MoT tester. 

Also got in there with brush and Vactan and liberally dosed every single area of rust I could see. Floor, subframe, longits, rear crash bar mounts etc etc. 

It's actually quite a nice day here in Northampton so it was a good opportunity to get some work done. 

Rear pads needed doing! 

[beko1987]

I remember on my puma breaking it for spares after the rear arches fell out, pulling the carpet out and finding MASSIVE rust scabs all over the floorpan 😥

Its why my heart sank when I found no boot corners in my qq, had massive flashbacks but luckily the qq was non structural and totally hidden behind the bumper so I could fibreglass it 👌

After the Puma I got my first ZX and that's how I found autoshite back in  2012

+

Equalled

Then I had 3 of them and loved them but they got too smoll once the kids grew up.

2012 me would be very disappointed that 2026 me drives a qashqai j10 and quite likes it...😥😂

[grogee]

Very unexciting collection threadlet, but it does involve TRAINZ

[Cookiesouwest]

20 minutes ago, grogee said:

Very unexciting collection threadlet, but it does involve TRAINZ

Chod speed

[hairnet]

brum just fkin no

hope its worth it

 

[grogee]

21 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Chod speed

Heading your way! (After trainswap at Brum @hairnet) 

[grogee]

First TrainFail: went to the loo, applied soap to wash hands, went to rinse... No water. Tried drying... No dryer. OK I'll wipe my hands with toilet paper... 

No paper. 

[grogee]

Next tren is delayed, because of course it is (wrong type of wind I expect). Only by 3 min apparently but they like to "adjust" as they get later. 

Birmingham pigeon

[grogee]

Next tren is a Cross Country, presumably a soft-roader then. 

We're not sitting in our allocated seats because British. 

No pics of packed lunch but check out extended pudding

[grogee]

St Wherberg's achieved. 

Had a quick check and fired her up, she burbled into life with vim* and vigour* on the third turn of the key. 

Checked tyre pressures and they were all high, which is good because that's how I set them before Xmas. I thought I had a slow puncture but apparently not. 

Only issue was a mouldy steering wheel... Sister Grogee's garage is a touch damp. 

Some issues to fix when I get back, like the self-opening tailgate and multiple stereo issues, but hopefully in good shape for return journey tomorrow. 

[grogee]

Drove Maestro to Chippenham this morning for a cubing tournament. Nephew is very into cubing, Master Grogee kind of goes along with it. 

Anyway the Maestro did its winter time warm up strop. Kangaroo and misfires until the damp had cleared. Then did the half hour journey without incident. 

There's nothing like your son shouting, "DAD, STOP IT!" while you are trying to explain you're not jerking along through choice and the staccato progress is due to an ignition problem. 

[JMotor]

16 hours ago, grogee said:

[grogee]

Did a little bit to the Maestro, despite the perishing cold. It's sunny, but not warm. 

I don't have masses of time so nothing earth shattering but I did want to get around to fixing the self-opening boot latch. 

It's a bit weird as I couldn't get it to pop open with force once I'd latched it shut, but after most journeys the bootlid would be unlatched by the time I got home. I'm guessing some combination of vibration or twisting released it somehow. 

I managed to score a NOS one which was a bit of a result, so I set about fitting it. It's noticeable that the old one felt very slack and seemed to have a lot of play. 

Fiddly but not too hard. Seems to work OK but I haven't been for a drive yet. 

Instead I jacked it up so that I can get underneath and have a thorough inspection of the underside, with Vactan in hand. 

I also wanted to remove the rear bumper which I bonked last weekend to try and straighten it out. Some plastic surgery will be necessary here, so I've asked for advice on Ask a Shiter pages. 

[Bmwdumptruck]

I’ve used builders Gripfil to build strength around plastic parts like that. Does take a day or so to harden, but it’s fixed quite a few bike panels and the top of a caravan gas fire last year.  

[S2000]

On 22/02/2026 at 16:44, beko1987 said:

I remember on my puma breaking it for spares after the rear arches fell out, pulling the carpet out and finding MASSIVE rust scabs all over the floorpan 😥

Its why my heart sank when I found no boot corners in my qq, had massive flashbacks but luckily the qq was non structural and totally hidden behind the bumper so I could fibreglass it 👌

After the Puma I got my first ZX and that's how I found autoshite back in  2012

+

Equalled

Then I had 3 of them and loved them but they got too smoll once the kids grew up.

2012 me would be very disappointed that 2026 me drives a qashqai j10 and quite likes it...😥😂

Can you remember who owned the L200 pulling the trailer? It is my old one !! BK07LHZ