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41 minutes ago, PhilA said:

DMV task complete, I now hold a temp slip of paper that states the car is in my name.

 

$337.60 poorer for the privilege.

You guys have to pay to get a car registered?😱Don’t give DVLA any ideas.....

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20 minutes ago, colc said:

You guys have to pay to get a car registered?😱Don’t give DVLA any ideas.....

Yup, that's to put the car on the register in this state and place the title of ownership in my name.

That's not even registered for use on the road yet, that's an additional fee ($20) annually.

 

Imagine having to do that if you moved a car from Scotland to Wales, say...

Phil

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8 minutes ago, PhilA said:

Yup, that's to put the car on the register in this state and place the title of ownership in my name.

That's not even registered for use on the road yet, that's an additional fee ($20) annually.

 

Imagine having to do that if you moved a car from Scotland to Wales, say...

Phil

Something else the SNP haven’t thought about......

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On 4/29/2021 at 5:33 PM, hairnet said:

would it have been less painful if itd been an LA car

Yes. Would've just been re-registration fee of $78, sign the paperwork, notary stamp and job done.

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A little spare time this afternoon.

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All the pistons cleaned up, rings out back on and knocked back into the bores, torqued down.

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Heads back on after freeing the valves off.

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Valvetrain installed correctly, intake manifold on.

I need to get some bolts to put in the lifting holes, then I can put it back on the gearbox, put some oil in and crank it over, get the oil around.

 

Phil

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3 hours ago, hairnet said:

thought orange was a chevy thing?

or is it a gm thing?

 

Chrysler were mostly a pale aqua/green sort of color, with a brief excursion to sky blue before starting to use "Hemi Orange" for their performance engines (anything not a 4 or a 6).

 

Phil

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On 29/04/2021 at 20:19, PhilA said:

Yup, that's to put the car on the register in this state and place the title of ownership in my name.

That's not even registered for use on the road yet, that's an additional fee ($20) annually.

 

Imagine having to do that if you moved a car from Scotland to Wales, say...

Phil

My missus still had plates from Wisconsin from when she lived there, and only changed them to New York in 2019, seven years later, is that illegal?
 

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6 minutes ago, DavidB said:

My missus still had plates from Wisconsin from when she lived there, and only changed them to New York in 2019, seven years later, is that illegal?
 

I dunno, but that sounds like all the Polish registered sprinters that live on the streets of Leicester.

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1 hour ago, DavidB said:

My missus still had plates from Wisconsin from when she lived there, and only changed them to New York in 2019, seven years later, is that illegal?
 

Yup. Most states give you 60-90 days to re-register your vehicle in the state you're moving to.

The exception would be if she still had a physical address in the state the vehicle is registered in, however if the vehicle is to permanently stay at the new address then no, the state requires you to register it there instead.

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Just now, tooSavvy said:

Do you catch ' I Do Cars ' ?

He is in business to strip out 'core blocks' and resell salvaged parts.

I watch.... and think of you. lol

;)

No, I haven't seen that. Where's it from? (Sounds like here).

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20210503_210446.thumb.jpg.61caf1e24848a1fb4b7b1765114cdf1b.jpg

I made a brief stop at the hardware store tonight. I bought the studs and bolts for the exhaust manifolds, and a set of stainless screws for the valve covers.

I thought I had valve cover gaskets, turns out it was spare oil pan gaskets so that's useful in its own right but not for the task at hand.

Completely forgot to measure the oil pump drive before going, so removed it and measured it afterwards.

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Just under 3/8" so I'll get a length of round bar and file it into a hexagon that size, so I can poke it down the hole into the oil pump and get the system primed up to pressure before I crank it over.

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I also couldn't resist throwing the ancillary parts on just to see what it looks like. Have just remembered I need to get some 8.8 bolts for the crank pulley too.

I think O'Reilly's have Holley parts in stock so I should be able to get a set of carb studs and the gasket spacer that's missing from the intake. That carb is pretty junky but it'll do for now unless it leaks really badly.

Phil

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I dislike ethanol fuel. I decided to pull the carburetor apart to see just how wonderful it was inside.

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Oh yes. Truly wonderful.

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Took that float bowl apart and stuck it in the ultrasonic bath to clean up a while.

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While that was fizzing, I cleaned up the ancillary parts.

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It's better. Imperfect but workable. Accelerator pump still works. From what I can see it's only 22 years old so it's not completely decrepit yet, but it needs an overhaul of it's going to be used.20210504_202813.thumb.jpg.3792ccf304d3ae027c9de842cbdcac74.jpg

This is proving awkward, though.

All good fun...

 

Phil

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I've rebuilt loads of these carbs, the castings are like plasticine under fastener loads, the main bodies I skim the faces where the metering blocks and float Chambers get heat and a medley of G clamps to straighten them, mind the gaskets are so thick and accommodating its more of a transfered OCD from weber carbs etc ! 

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20210505_200902.thumb.jpg.97685592042a3afccc324baf6ec9a0bb.jpg

I bought a length of 3/8" rod earlier and tonight filed the end to match the oil pump drive.

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I fitted my big gauge to the position the pressure warning light switch normally lives, and attached my drill to the rod, slotted down into the pump.

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I figured I could check if it wanted to prime. Sure enough, straight away. Oil started to barf out of the oil filter holes.

I made a quick trip to AutoZone and picked up a filter for it and tried again.

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It made some bubbly noises then proceeded to Exxon Valdez all over the bench from the adapter plate. I pulled it apart, found the seal was no more good so swapped the plate from the spare engine which was marginally better. 

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Result. 68psi on relief with a maximum of 80psi if I bring the RPM up far too high. The tappets all pumped up but I have no oil at the top end so either it's blocked, the gasket is wrong or the bar is on wrong. I'll check that tomorrow but so far so good.

 

Phil

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I've been told the cam has a feed hole that points at one head then the other as it rotates- a rudimentary flow reducing system to prevent the top end from being flooded with oil.

So the valvetrain will only get oil as the engine turns. I'll turn it over until it fills up and oils the bars, then that's done.

I need to get the bypass hose for the water pump, a length of hose to act as the heater and then drop it down and hook up a radiator to it.

 

Phil

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One starter is bad and tries to arc weld itself when you go to use it.

The other is lazy. Awesome!

But still, it's a little progress.

Phil

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16 minutes ago, PhilA said:

One starter is bad and tries to arc weld itself when you go to use it.

The other is lazy. Awesome!

But still, it's a little progress.

Phil

Big fuck off drill time? (and a camera to record the hilarity that ensues? :)

something like so :mrgreen:

 

 

 

on a more serious note, as with the Chieftain I have been throughly enjoying your write ups on your progress with this machine

keep up the good work! :) 

(love that the gearbox looks like a Giant funnel more than it does a gearbox)

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I would but the nut on the crank isn't something like 13mm on that engine, it's 15/16" and I don't think my drill has enough grunt to kick this engine over.

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Only this much of the gearbox is that, as such, the rest is torque converter and tailshaft bearing housing.

It's a long car, long engine isn't a problem...!

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3 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Possible the lazy one could be revived with a good clean and proper lubrication? 

Probably, it sounds healthy otherwise.

The bad one you can hear fizzing away at the commutator.

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