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Jikovron

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Everything posted by Jikovron

  1. Jikovron

    Sierra V8

    I bet v6 4x4 springs would be a decent match as a cologne and its front diff are likely a similar weight to the 302 possibly more especially if fitted with alloy heads and an alloy 4 barrel manifold. British Leyland V8s weigh 175KG in EFI guise with a 50kg gearbox, and the later 4.0,4.6 puts on about 10kg due to a thicker crank and block.
  2. So a few small jobs occurred, on thing I've overlooked is storage for things that are useful but rarely see the light of day, on such item being the engine crane, I love having it, but not so much constantly placing it out of the immediate way repetitively. It's just a mess even when split into 3 so I decided to make up some gate bolted hinged flaps to allow easy storage overhead and they dont protrude down thankfully. I'll have to look at storage options for the base next. Also this chassis is somewhat looking more of a reality although there is loads of diagonal bracing to go in yet! And even the crappy welder is playing the ok game! Anyhow the honda GX390 is out for the count, a 400cc single just doesnt compute, so I've picked up a 480cc briggs V twin instead and now I feel it's closer to my minds eye now. So for the transmission I'm sounding out ideas currently, one thought was a reliant robin flywheel and clutch driving pitbike gears inside a fabricated enclosure or driving a 110 quad gearbox with the 110 engine parts removed so I could use the manual clutch it comes with , but either way it will be a tight fit as there wont be space in the transmission tunnel for anything more than a propshaft really.
  3. The spring cap may have the end of the valve stem recessed too deep for the bucket to sit on the stem as you said so cannot be used as a measurement datum as it essentially means nothing as all the caps will be an unknown variable @The Mighty Quinn is 100% right to suggest not doing the clearances on a freshly built head with new parts or they will drift almost straight away in random directions, it wants 500 miles before a proper setup really. 'with a 4.24mm shim the gap is 0.20 This suggests a 4.14mm shim is required' No idea how to quote on mobile,, but that statement is correct.
  4. It might be worth dressing the port edges, the rebore looks to have been used for a short while and those sharp edged ports may be why it's got a new looking piston with no rings yet fitted. I've not dealt with 2 strokes for years but the rings riding the port edges I remember being a bugger with new rings etc
  5. More action has been achieved although its alot slower in reality than the montage pace I had in mind as it's not possible to just rip the frame together like the random purpose ones I do at work. As there is the hope for a MSVA test I'm spending time to ensure its square and also each joint is 'welded' rather than blobbed together like I normally do in a hurry. The welder is on its 3/4 setting but really needs to be on a 13/16 setting to accomplish the ideal, never the less it's still penetrating through so I'll live with it. Perspective seems to shift around between how flippin massive is this bit of pipe work and err this seems diminutive! Not much more needed till it gets all the 20mm cross bracing and hopefully I can nail down the rear suspension design for the frame work needed at the rear, a De dion axle would be the ideal but maybe abit of an ask engineering wise as it would mean small scale telescoping driveshafts, donut couplings and UV joints, the alternative would be a very light live axle arrangement but even a reliant robin axle is loads of unsprung weight at circa 37KG . Undecided on a steering rack or one of those little industrial worm gearboxes, a rack would be suitable for double wishbone but not so much for a split beam axle. These moped wheels look the part I think but want a larger sidewall like a 4.00-10 crossply maybe.
  6. 3 Rover v8s worth, another run of work waiting in the wings!
  7. Massive diversion to the proceedings! I fancy a Locost but rather than wade through the 2 outdated Haynes tomes and cut a vast pile of pipes out of 25mm RHS ready to accept 'worthless' old escort or sierra mechanicals I'm making this ultra light and very tight on the dimensions ,1M track,1.8m wheelbase and maybe a Honda gx390 driving some lightweight transmission gearing, it's not meant as a serious vehicle but a way of channeling some old ideas into something daft. I visited cyclekarts.gb for some inspiration and found plenty, although they run a fairly fixed formula of very early GP cars so I'm on the fringes of that tbh. I drew up some ideas to see how it plays out. I've got lots of hardware like chain drive diffs and various widgets but machining work will have to wait and also parts of the chassis to take semi trailing or an ultra light live axle will have to wait really. The decided factor is a split beam front end like a lotus 6 with some sort of worm gearbox steering box though so I'll use 32mm pipe welded to some bicycle hubs as kingpins. Also in the mix as its cut down on size is 10x2.5 rims with 4.00-10 tyres which keeps it in some level of scale. Armed with some level of idea I've made a start on the chassis which I'm going to make entirely out of electrical conduit as its dimensions and wall thickness are roughly what a locust would use but being tube I can do away with loads of horrible joints by way of scabby conduit bender! Abit of a bugger to get back into the swing of as tiny mistakes translate into borking whole lengths of pipe ! It's a fine balancing act between cleaning off the zinc, but not thinning the pipe! Some of the hardware, a 90degree gearbox,diff and a sturmey archer of whi h the latter is questionable regarding longevity.
  8. 'Bargain' 3500 p6 gearbox Dilemmas dilemmas for those with a failed BW type 35 either look about for a 'cheap' unknown or pay the going rate for a reconditioned unit, not sure I could decide haha Reconditioned 3500 box
  9. Cheap gauges These are the same 3 gauge cluster I think, they are actually decently accurate, my main concern was for the oil pressure being abit flittish and random but its damped and reads properly! A bonus that you can remove the fronts with some minor bezel interrogation and blot out anything too garish on the scale.
  10. That's like a throwback to when I tried running mine as a standard daily 1500hl so after 6 months of 3-4 solo bump starts per day i actually increased the strength in my left arm more than my right from pushing awkwardly via the A pillar ! , hopefully the new power pack negates all that lol.
  11. I've learnt new facts about the 8 track format via your video, they have concurrent recorded tracks on the same tape where before in my minds eye they had a capacity of 8 tracks, what an upgrade in perspective! Also that they seem to be temperamental to the point when that tape was falling off the spool, I would probably end up with bits of plastic and ribbons of tape everywhere!
  12. First up, this SKF drill bit arrived courtesy of Mr_bollox, which is a very pleasant surprise and rather generous, many thanks for that I can now indulge in the precise severance of spotwelds without denting the panel work! Feeling generally upbeat I attacked a few more jobs, a wheel well patch was hastily battered into shape and not welded in as the access is handy currently. So next up the bit I had hoped to spend time caressing into position and inanely spot welding into position whilst feasting my eyes over the seductive sheet curves was cast aside in favour of just blasting it in position. ^^^ the ole 1986 passively cooled welder disaster zone just sat showing me how I should be living life I should be breaking out the filler really but it's a repair based on practicality and slight impatience Also of note I tackled some sort of rust proofing measure on the daihatsu welding work as my quick blow over with zinc started fostering corrosion so I wire wheeled the whole area, pasted on the rust convertor, zinc primer,some horrible gloss black paint and some old man 'bitumastic' stonechip everywhere inside the arch. Loads more to be done!
  13. Only once I started driving japanese origin cars did I relax into the idea that nothing was likely to go wrong mechanically although structural rust is still an issue. My Estelles have been in the camp of nothing going wrong but a lack of refinement doesn't half bring life and colour to the NVH factor so there is never a feeling that the mechanical parts are having a nice calm smooth run of it ontop of cooling system questions. I never felt confident that my dolomite would complete a journey as things would physically fatigue and drop off, seize up, rot through,come undone, crack,leak,lose electrical continuity,burn oil, it was comically unreliable!
  14. Mine must have been a C with cashback !, great cars though I'd have a 1275 mk1 S with some kind of special tuning stage 2 kit and the rover interconnected hydragas rigged up if I had the disposable.
  15. I wonder if there may be a sub spec to the C and L etc, my H plate carb 1.1 was billed as as a rover metro only on the v5 and had literally nothing at all as an extra, no sunroof, rear wiper,radio,4 speed,leccy front windows,solid burgundy paint,grey monotone seats and a sort of grey lino boot covering rather than carpet. The tales of leaks surprise me as all 3 of ours were bone dry which will have assisted with the lack of rot in the rover metros ive had although dads Y plate cityX needed extensive sill and boot floor welding at 10 years old and additionally he trimmed the rot on the front valance leaving it open to prevent it rusting out again, not sure if that required mot flexibility!
  16. With that compressor, motors are possible to buy but they are surprisingly expensive, I looked at an equivalent single phase motor for my band saw and given the £75 for a Tec motor I ended up taking one from a cheap pillar drill, suffice to say it ran the wrong way but I just turned the housing back to front rather than try messing about with the run cap. Thinking about space maybe the compressor vessel could mount on the ceiling and pipework run down to a take off PCL and the old unit somehow mount to the vessel or feed it from a shelf, I've considered similar but my weedy 6L compressor is infinitesimal!
  17. Thankyou for the most kind comments gents, if at least something approaching entertainment is provided along with winning the fight against natural vehicular entropy then it's an additional string to the motivational bow! Also mr XB I've not replaced the spotweld drill insofar as to just increase the drilling pressure/resharpen repeatedly which has been impractical on unsupported paperwork. I'll send a pm regarding your generous offer, many thanks!
  18. So as enthusiasm continued with the proton 1.8 good luck sir I dove right in at the cosmetic end of the spectrum which rewarded me with relatively smooth levels of progression forward, the task I view through cynical specs is pasting on various rust prevention coatings as I'm always suspicious that somehow I havnt recreated the laboratory conditions required for zinc primer,hydrate 80,hammerite black paint,Pu seam sealer etc or indeed as I suspect I've got the order of application mixed up as I sprayed the panels with zinc primer, then pasted on the hydrate80 where I think it should have been pu sealant around the seams,hydrate 80,zinc primer then black paint either way I'm hopeful rust will be kept at bay. So the lower rear quarter recieved a repair as it had rot down behind the mud flap,its been shot blasted like the rest so I've to bare metal all the alu oxide off it as blast coating seems to cause loads of issues with corrosion etc. Next up my metal folder that I made with a 100 amp clarke welder years ago came into good use for the arch repair patch, originally I was going to stitch in the old pieces but as they are all 1mm smaller it made sense to trace round them in one fresh piece and it removes an element of surface corrosion. So with some carefull deburring the pieces all fit together nicely although there are minor differences in tolerance between a 95 mpi and a 91 1300, it's not enough to be a problem however. At this stage really the welding is going to be ruinous to the visible area but it has to be done I guess. Once I've made a mess of that ive got to reinstate the damper mount as modify is to remove the old mud trap whilst keeping strength in the area. The piece that curves over the top is at the top if the wheel wheel which spreads the forces all over the wheel tub, but tbh I bet it can be simplified massively. Then after that it's only the 3 patches in the middle before i call that part of the car done.
  19. By 20 I had a severely rotten skoda estelle 2 120L that I had replaced the sills,floor,A pillars, front boot floor on and also had swapped the swing axle suspension for a rapid 136 semi trailing setup with a felicia mpi engine with double solex 36 side draughts giving it the required levels of shove, latterly before it was sold it had recieved a 2002 fabia 1.4 mpi engine which is essentially the same ohv architecture going back to the 1950s so only needed minor work to make the later vag flywheel work with the transaxle, that car is long gone now as after being sold it was stripped for parts and weighed in My dolomite 1500 was purchased at 19 and was in a bad way mechanically by the time I was 20 so recieved a rebuilt spitfire engine which also had a cracked block unbeknownst to me so preparation was being made to covert to v8 power by then, it's currently awaiting loads of welding and a new power plant 11 years on!
  20. I took a look at the proton which has been a continuous piece of ornamental garden furniture for years now and has required work done that is a major amount of hassle namely rot in and around the arches. Previously when the car was on the road it was something I was going to just sort with simple panels bashed into near enough shape however a scrapped mpi donated the rear quarter and inner panels in one large assembly which I carefully unpicked and had shot blasted and subsequently repaired where the rot had taken hold. First up was to remove the rear seats, clear out the rubbish and clean the horrible oily film that was prevalent over everything. A quick bucket of soap and degreaser made it possible to sit inside without getting covered in needless filth. Behind this is where the rot had set in behind the shock mounting panel. I ended up having to hand grind the spotweld drill as it went dull quickly. Shock mount gone,,and this opened up handy portholes to weld the inner arch via. One thing that I find handy is when the patches come out without being too mangled so I can copy them. I cut out a rough sized rectangle for this and as the metal was worked it proved to be insufficient to say the least so had to add some blinking triangles! This wanted some serious levels of repair,,making it from scratch would have been a major ballache with the potential for spending hours to get something no good. First repair piece in, and as always welding in the wind is sporadic runs whilst the wind momentarily calms,,,then sitting there waiting for the next lull, this on top of the welder being abit hit and miss caused mild vexation it could be said. Another patch made easier via the access holes, but still might aswell have been gas less as the wind was unrelenting by this stage. I had cut this away ages ago but had just left it for months,, might aswell start adding metal to clear the out the triumphs boot and make use of the mpi repair panels. This took loads of fettling as the metal had warped from the sand blasting,welding,being stood on etc but it went on no bother in the end. I tried to avoid cutting the panel above the bumper but the inner arch was rotten further along so that's the next area of attack. Eventually I'll get to this stage but there is loads of farting about needed before I close it up. Looking ahead there is the front valance to try and reconstruct possibly out of some old IBC plastic sheeting maybe.
  21. Normally its daft things like an extra vent in the inlet causing the choke flap to need revised , the addition of an anti stall actuator or a plastic accel pump housing instead of zinc alloy etc
  22. Weber revision numbers just denote updates to the carb itself, where as jetting is not serial number defined as the same 32DIR(3) for instance can have a multitude of jet calibrations depending on whether catalyst equipped or not, compression ratio,unleaded ignition profile etc.
  23. Imo somehing like handbrake lock would be more faff than a theif would want as it cant be pushed away to be hot wired ect out of apparent owner sight and even if running it wont have the torque to overcome its small car type brake drums , could maybe take the form of a pad locked bracket onto the lever? Pull handle?
  24. Thankyou for all for the kind words, a sometimes a trial (although trivial) is made much more bearable when shared via the medium of community. As an aside I reckon a decent cordless drill with a decent cache of spot weld drills would be ideal, as my 12v aldi drill although not bad couldn't hack the pace at all, and I blunted the spotweld drill within 10 spot welds. I left vvv this stuff at work but I reckon it would have kept the drill bit going ad infinitum as you can blast the crappest amtech tap through stainless etc with the stuff https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIRCRAFT-TOOLS-NEW-BOELUBE-SOLID-LUBRICANT-1-6-OZ-70200-13/121928734572?hash=item1c6384d76c:g:I-cAAOSwyYFaFUsz
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