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Posted
7 hours ago, Split_Pin said:

Where did you get your ramp thing for the car?  My garage is too wee to work on a car so like you it's outside on the drive for me. I think a ramp like that would make things a lot easier... 

I bought it secondhand but lightly used from a guy at work who had sold his Triumph Mayflower, and not used it since.  I paid £350 for it, I think they were double that new at one point, but have probably come down a bit?

It's a 1.5 t model, I'm going to try the P4 on it later on, which is fully that weight... No problems at all with anything I've had on it so far though.  It comes with a gearbox attachment, designed to let you wind it up with a drill, never used by me or the last fella, pretty easy with the handle anyway.

 

Posted

Another productive day on the ranch... 323 all buttoned up again and seemingly liking it's new exhaust.

I'm told by the lads that it really opens up (and sounds pretty fruity) at around 3,000... Round the houses it wasn't any louder than standard I thought, just deeper.  Happy days.

I'll get some pics of the final install tomorrow, t'was dark by the time I got done tonight.  Whilst the exhaust was still off, my eldest set about scrubbing and waxoyling the Mazda's underside, which left me free to play with the Rover.

I've been wanting to change the engine oil since I got the car, it was overfull and like water when I drained it out...  Filter had seen better days...

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The bottom of the bowl/can was covered in a very thick, hardened black goo,  feels good knowing that's all cleaned out!

Had a bit of trouble getting the filter bowl/can sealed.  The old seal had been in for a looooong time, hard and brittle.  To get at it properly (sits in a wee groove), I needed the housing the filter screws to off the engine. 

The gasket I wrecked doing that was of course not included in the 'complete engine gasket set' I had in the boot, but I did have an ancient sheet of gasket paper in the garage so knocked one up.  Holding fast so far 🤞.

She took the full 9 litres of Comma Classic 20W50, lovely green stuff about twice the viscosity of what came out!  The old oil smelt strongly of petrol... Can I assume that a combination of old sticky rings, and a lot of short runs/attempted starts have contributed?  First start was great, not noticeably smoother to be honest (really smooth engine anyway), but she came up to pressure quickly and is definitely less smoky already.

Also, tried a few back and forths on the drive (couldn't resist!), and she's definitely less jerky taking up the drive.  Maybe the clutch/flywheel interface is just coming right after the lay-up?  Wishful thinking maybe, but will see more tomorrow now I've access to the tilty ramp again.

 

Posted

Back in after a bit more tinkering, flushed out and replaced the coolant with fresh stuff.  Not too much shite out of it, but very little actual anti-freeze in the water, so needed doing.

Spent some time running her up and down the driveway, but the rumble isn't going away, so up she goes...

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I had to re-jig the tilty ramp, using the shortest crossmembers... The pads still only just catch the chassis rails, but there's some beefy outriggers at the front (they contain the jacking points), also now sat on the pads.

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All seems solid, and the ramp had no trouble actually lifting her.  The back wheels are just touching the ground and no more, so I must be pretty near the centre of gravity.  I'll hold the rear up on axle stands when it comes time to run her in gear.

There is evidence of an old leak from the gearbox...

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... hopefully there's still some in there!

Engine continuing to run well, every now and then some* emissions escape the old girl...

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Anyway, dinner with the outlaws tonight, so off to make myself more presentable and try not to talk old cars all night!

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  • Like 8
Posted

No real work done today, but we did get a visit from my sons' pal, made for a good photo...

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Nice wee car, his daily.

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Took the old girl's wheels off, plan is to investigate the rumble in the drivetrain first off.  After that, I need to improve the braking...  not much happening in that department suddenly.

And while up in the air I'll scrub and re-oil each wheel well and the chassis methinks.

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  • Like 7
Posted
11 minutes ago, TrabbieRonnie said:

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Those Duke boys, never meaning no harm. 🚓

Posted

Evening all.

Rain stopped play for most of the day here, although I did investigate the Rover's drivetrain a wee bit.  

I greased all the uj's (3 in total), and had a check of the centre support bearing.  It seemed fine, the rubber bushes are still whole, and the assembly is spring-loaded, to allow for some movement/vibration damping.  The uj's did need greasing, none were actually stuck though.

So the rumble does seem to be coming from the gearbox... bugger.  As I'd said before, there has been a leak from the box for some time obviously, so I set about seeing how much was left in there. 

I'm a great believer in making sure you can replenish anything you drain before you start, so out with the carpets to find the filler first...

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Handy!  Sat under a big rubber bung is the fill cap and a wee dipstick.  It barely registered any oil, however, oh dear thought I...

The drain plug undid surprisingly easily (getting used to that on this car), and out came the following...

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They're both 700ml bottles, so I reckon I've got around 8-900ml there?  There ought to be two litres, so no wonder we've got problems.  It took a long time to settle to the above state too, it was more or less like cream as it drained out.

There was also a small amount of metal filings caught in the dished portion of the drain plug, but it could be completely normal wear and tear on a 65-year-old car for all I know?  I didn't have any GL-4 ep90 in stock, and the GL-5 stuff I've got can eat old synchros I'm told, so best not risk it!

The plan as it stands is...

Refill the box with oil, maybe it will help, and it certainly can't hurt.  This way, I can move the car around the drive over the winter at least.  If the gearbox bearings are truly shagged and it needs to come out, well... the engine has to be lifted first.  Chances of that happening this year are pretty slim with the weather window passing and other motors needing attention.

One addendum to the above is that I believe the aft section of the box can be removed in situ (what would house the freewheel assembly if she was so equipped), allowing access to the rearmost bearing.  I could therefore change just that one and see... the noise does seem to come from the rear end, wishful thinking again!

Then, carry on with the brakes.  We had a good go at bleeding them today, and really thought we were getting somewhere at first.  A lot of air has been expelled, and some pedal feel restored at times, only to be lost again.  The front calipers have gripped the discs, so something definitely moved.  I wonder if the master cylinder seals have sealed their last, the original unit is in the boot, and a used replacement has been fitted by the previous owner.  

They're thankfully available online for £80 or so, if it is shot.  I'll take the original into work this week for dismantling and inspection, see if I can salvage something.  Other than that the discs and pads/drums and shoes are in physically good solid condition.  The other potential weak link could be the servo (connected remotely to the master cylinder in this car).  I've read instances online of them leaking internally, although I don't believe that's the case here as I'm not losing brake fluid from the reservoir.

And of course, general scrubbing/waxoyling/tidying up as time allows.

The gearbox situation had me stumped for a bit... I have no overdrive, and no freewheel fitted.  Apparently fitted as standard on the 100, I can only imagine it was not as the car was built for export?  This sent me down the rabbit hole a wee bit, as I'm reading that the 100 replaced the 95 and the 105 versions on the 21st of October, 1959.  My particular 100 was built on the 8th of October 1959, and despatched on the 19th.  I wonder if it's being such an early 100 has a bearing on what parts could be chucked on at the factory, especially as it was bound for sunnier foreign climes where a simpler design would maybe be easier to maintain?  

One good thing is that the added overdrive would require nearly 3 litres of oil, so I've lost less as a percentage at least!  

What I at first assumed to be the overdrive selector on the steering column, is in fact the headlight switch by the way... In my defence I'm new to these cars!

Anyway, nothing else to report, I've been watching YouTube docs about the 'Malay Emergency', not Britain's finest hour I fear... but much like the Trabbi, this car has opened my eyes to relatively recent but seemingly worlds-away history.  It seems the Rover would have hit the ground in Malaya just as things were calming down a bit, and been there through a fairly busy time as the newly independent country rebuilt itself. 

Fascinating to think of who owned her out there, and brought her back in the late 70's (initially to the Republic of Ireland).

  • Like 7
Posted

I am astounded!  

With fresh oil in the 'box, things have improved greatly... Still a wee bit rough in 1st and reverse, but has really smoothed out in all other gears.  Not perfect, but I'd happily drive the car now... what a relief.  I took her up to an indicated 45mph, enough of a test on the ramp I think!

Also had a butchers at the original master cylinder, which arrived with the car, in the boot.  Bit of rust and sludge inside, which cleaned up easy enough.  The seals are intact, and the piston itself looks ok too.  I put it all back together, filled and bled it on the bench and it seems to work just fine... The seal kit  has been ordered anyway (£20 delivered), so if I need it, it's there.

Looking underneath, I noticed the one that's been fitted is the wrong unit, two bolt holes in the mounting flange instead of three.  This has meant it's orientation is wrong, and the brake lines have been pushed hard up against the chassis rail, so not ideal.  I don't know if the stroke length etc. is correct, it could be causing issues, and I'll be glad to get the original re-fitted.

Another thing I've been keen to assess is the corrosion on the sill plates, under the perfect-water-trap rubber covers... Things looked bad.

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However, they are honestly rock-solid!  I've done a quick and dirty scrub and Fertan, to stop it getting any worse.  They now look a lot better...

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...and I can't believe I'm not needing the welder out!  I was convinced I'd be replacing these.  I'll rub them down properly at some point, paint them, and of course they'll be covered up by new rubbers anyway. 

Rest of the floorpan seems fine, all lined with a waxy kind of mat, presumably for sound deadening purposes.  Some of the carpet would be saveable, but the driver's bit is pretty ruined.

So, tomorrow (I'm off shift until the weekend) should see the master cylinder swapped and hopefully some decent braking!  That, combined with the engine running nicely and the gearbox feeling a bit happier, should mean some actual driving!  Can't wait to take her up the lane for a proper run under her own power.

My other half has been tasked with upholstering duties, and we have the beginnings of a plan.  I can't really justify the cost of repairing/replacing the leather, but luckily my wife and my mother-in-law are very  skilled in the sewing department!  Not one for the purists already this car, I'd like to brighten up the interior and reference the old Rover's roving days in Malaya.  There's some great fabrics available from that neck of the woods, and we reckon we can make up some nice fitted covers in the colours and patterns of the place.  

A long-term plan, but nice to contemplate the finishing touches even at this point.  I priced up tyres too, the original size (6.40 r15) are expensive, obviously catering solely to the classic car market.  However, 185/80/15's are fittable and much cheaper (starting at £65 a corner), as I think they're sold for van use.  Again, not something I'll be buying until the spring maybe, just good to know.

 

 

Posted

Well, I am awaiting a seal kit for the master cylinder still, so no roving as yet.

On further investigation (upon removal) of the unit that was fitted to the car, it and the spare from the boot seems identical apart from the mounting flange.  The trouble is, that in order to fit the two-bolt unit, someone has made up a plate to accept it, and however it's stuck in there... it's bloody well stuck in there!  I thought it would come out once the bolts were off but no.  I wonder if it was the solution to a ruined thread in one of the original holes (only one side is accessible)?

Anyway, it looks like I'll be resealing and refitting that for now, as I say it's internally identical anyway.  The seal kit is due in tomorrow, and as I'm working today I'll be off and able to get going (and stopping!)🤞

Interestingly (well, to me anyway!), I found some pics of the car online... Behold the paint finish it had a few short years ago in 2020...

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This was uploaded in January 2021 (hence my assumption that it was taken in the preceding summer), she's sitting outside a local petrol station, the manager of which has since moved away.  I now vaguely remember seeing the car sat there, the owner did have a preference for unusual motors.  

The photographer appears to be an American, who has the images available for sale on a website over there, so I could even buy it on a t-shirt if i so desired!

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She must have made quite an impression on him anyway.  'Shite handbrake noted.

 

 

Posted

Red does pogweasel very well even with it applied by factory spray shops; a cheap blow-over stands no chance.

  • Like 1
Posted

I wouldn't rush down the van tyre route, I believe they can make the ride a little firmer. If you look around you can find inexpensive 185 80 r15 car tyres, I got some cheap 'Hifly' ones and even though they were Chinese ditchfinders they were leagues ahead of the 40 year old Avon cross-plys.

These are the ones, though I got them from camskill I think ( not showing any stock).

https://www.sunderlandtyres.co.uk/tyresearch/details/139143/hifly-hf201

I think @Zelandeth might have bought some when he had his P4 more recently.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Surface Rust said:

I wouldn't rush down the van tyre route, I believe they can make the ride a little firmer. If you look around you can find inexpensive 185 80 r15 car tyres, I got some cheap 'Hifly' ones and even though they were Chinese ditchfinders they were leagues ahead of the 40 year old Avon cross-plys.

These are the ones, though I got them from camskill I think ( not showing any stock).

https://www.sunderlandtyres.co.uk/tyresearch/details/139143/hifly-hf201

I think @Zelandeth might have bought some when he had his P4 more recently.

I take your point, it didn't immediately jump out at me that they were all reinforced (8 ply) jobs... although I see Radar are making an actual car tyre in that size.  We have Radars on the old Surf and they are amazing, both in quality and value.  

Many thanks for the recommendation, will have a butchers 👍

Posted

Well, between work and the lads' gigs, I haven't yet bled my old Rover's brakes.  

In these situations I find it motivating to waste time doing jobs that don't really need doing!  For a while now, I've been pondering doing something I haven't done before.

As preparation, the old girl got the scrub of her life... I really got into the nooks and crannies with car shampoo and a paintbrush, an amazing amount of crap was flushed out of hiding behind chrome strips etc.

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As you can see, this left me with the now normal, very faded blotchy old car, which I have come to love, but it's also been worrying me.  Would I have any paint finish left at all by next year?

Anyway, after a few years of watching Vice Grip Garage on the 'tube, I decided this was the car to try out the linseed oil on...

Behold!

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An immensely satisfying half-hour I must say!  My logic with this was basically that I had nothing to lose... If it doesn't work it'll be gone eventually with washing and the weather.  I should say I had already cut and polished the roof, the black paint came up lovely and so remains oil-free.

Here's some pics of the process, I wiped/rubbed it on with a sponge polishing pad, using a minute amount of the two litres of boiled linseed oil I bought.

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I will update on how this pans out, how long it lasts etc.  Even if it needed doing every time you washed it it wouldn't be the end of the world to be honest, I was taking my time and was done in twenty minutes.

Any and all input on this would be welcome, maybe should have asked before I did it!

Hopefully tomorrow will see some action on the brakes, and then I'll stick my newly polished chrome hubcaps back on to complete the oily-rag resto look!  Also managed to get hold of plenty of stainless pipe for future exhaust fabrication, I fancy a slightly rorty six-cylinder burble, and the existing one isn't long for this world.

Cheers all.

Posted
On 19/10/2024 at 17:51, TrabbieRonnie said:

No real work done today, but we did get a visit from my sons' pal, made for a good photo...

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Head for the hills! This insatiable P4 will devour us all!!!!

  • Haha 1
Posted

Blimey, I'd never have though it would improve so much in just 30 minutes! Top shiting.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, High Jetter said:

Blimey, I'd never have though it would improve so much in just 30 minutes! Top shiting.

You and me both!  Fingers crossed it lasts a wee while.  I keep finding excuses to go outside for a look...

Posted

Fabulous job on the paint, the P4 is a car I've always liked but so far not owned.  Maybe one day :-)

If the gearbox is noisy in reverse and first does it have syncromesh on only 2,3 and 4?  If so then 1st and reverse a probably straight cut hence the noise being normal.  The Frogeye sprite, MG Midget (pre 1500) and early minis are like this and no doubt most other cars of the period,

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Homersimpson said:

If the gearbox is noisy in reverse and first does it have syncromesh on only 2,3 and 4?  If so then 1st and reverse a probably straight cut hence the noise being normal.  The Frogeye sprite, MG Midget (pre 1500) and early minis are like this and no doubt most other cars of the period,

I think it may well be something along those lines... It's not just a noise, which I agree could be normal, but the vibrations... I wonder if running low on oil has damaged the non-synchro gears more than the others somehow? 

They actually select just fine, there's just this rumble as the drive is taken up.  I've a lot to learn about cars from this era, and my old Rover has plenty to teach me I fear!

Posted
1 hour ago, High Jetter said:

Are you convinced it's gearbox and not the diff? 

Yes, had a good listen underneath with it running in gear... I haven't drained the diff yet to be fair (it is on the list), but all quiet at that end.

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, TrabbieRonnie said:

They actually select just fine, there's just this rumble as the drive is taken up.  

Clutch judder?

 

  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, Justwatching said:

Clutch judder?

 

I thought that at first, before changing the 'box oil.  Doing so made such a difference that I think that's where the problem was/is.  There's nothing to say the clutch isn't contaminated/fubarred after the long lay-up though, you could be right... that would be an easier fix too!

Current plans are to get some miles on it and 'see what happens '.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi all,

As I mentioned in Johnathan Dyane's P4 thread, I have tracked down my braking issue.  While bleeding the system after fitting the re-sealed master cylinder, I had a lot of trouble getting anything out of the rears.  I started the car, wondering if the servo would help.

It did, and we got good fluid flow, but also a slight increase in engine revolutions when the brake was pressed!  Accompanied eventually by thick white smoke, I have deduced that she is burning Dot4, via a leaky servo seal.  Not uncommon apparently, and a Lockheed replacement is available for 300 bucks.

A seal kit for the original is also available (£50), but apparently not straightforward to do, and not that reliable afterwards.  Decision to be made.  For now, I have disconnected and blanked off the manifold vacuum pipe, and cleaned my sooty plugs.  Normal engine operations and emissions are thankfully restored!

I'm off tomorrow, so am going to try and fit a loop to the lines where they enter and leave the servo to bypass it, to at least let me have brakes enough for yard movements.  I'll then strip the old Girling unit down and hopefully see what's what.

 

Linseed oil update...

Still very red and very shiny.  Takes a loooooong time to dry, so not ideal for a car in daily use.  Apparently, if I'd mixed in a bit of thinners it would have dried quicker, and I'd have less dead flies stuck to it!  Also, it rained a bit that night, and it's quite damp in general here just now, I assume the summertime (or a nice warm dry garage) is best for this.

However, I will re-do it with these things in mind, as the colour and shine restoration is nothing short of miraculous, and for basically no money.

 

 

Posted

Successful mission today, brake tinkering meant this could finally happen...

 

A short run up the lane and back has provided a great morale boost, and doesn't she look good out in the wilds!

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Lovely stuff.  I removed the old servo, and replaced it with a short length of pipe for maximum bodge points...

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After a quick bleed, we were rewarded with a firm pedal.  The brakes aren't strong, but do work without any pulling about.  The steering is wooly, lots of play around the dead ahead, and the wheel is miles off being straight.  I'm sure these old things actually drive very well when sorted, so work to do there.

Obviously I'm chuffed to bits here, there's nothing like getting a project car back to anywhere near driving condition, and this car does have a certain way of smoothing out the bumps and making it an event.

Strip down of the servo next, and decide on a course of action there.  The rumble isn't noticeable when driving, only when moving off in reverse.  That doesn't mean it's gone though, with better braking and new tyres I'll see how it feels at speed (by which I mean more than 20 mph, I'm not planning any top speed runs!).

Cheers all.

Posted
21 minutes ago, TrabbieRonnie said:

Successful mission today, brake tinkering meant this could finally happen...

 

A short run up the lane and back has provided a great morale boost, and doesn't she look good out in the wilds!

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Lovely stuff.  I removed the old servo, and replaced it with a short length of pipe for maximum bodge points...

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After a quick bleed, we were rewarded with a firm pedal.  The brakes aren't strong, but do work without any pulling about.  The steering is wooly, lots of play around the dead ahead, and the wheel is miles off being straight.  I'm sure these old things actually drive very well when sorted, so work to do there.

Obviously I'm chuffed to bits here, there's nothing like getting a project car back to anywhere near driving condition, and this car does have a certain way of smoothing out the bumps and making it an event.

Strip down of the servo next, and decide on a course of action there.  The rumble isn't noticeable when driving, only when moving off in reverse.  That doesn't mean it's gone though, with better braking and new tyres I'll see how it feels at speed (by which I mean more than 20 mph, I'm not planning any top speed runs!).

Cheers all.

Is it a rumble or judder moving off in reverse? Mine judders because the rear gearbox mount is knackered which isn't uncommon as they are apparently a bugger to change.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
7 minutes ago, Surface Rust said:

Is it a rumble or judder moving off in reverse? Mine judders because the rear gearbox mount is knackered which isn't uncommon as they are apparently a bugger to change.

Yes, more of a judder when actually driving (as opposed to running on the ramp), something to check... Thank you very much 👍

Posted

Great result on the brakes, big morale boost.

Did you manage to wrestle out the servo without taking the carb off?

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, jonathan_dyane said:

Great result on the brakes, big morale boost.

Did you manage to wrestle out the servo without taking the carb off?

Ha!  Yes, but only just, not an easy job...

  • Thanks 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, Matty said:

Excellent. Albeit a short run but did you enjoy driving it?

Oh god yes, lovely thing to drive, and I'm very proud to be it's custodian.

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