DeeJay Posted December 10, 2018 Posted December 10, 2018 The car on Fast and Loud had bench seats but that was the only pic I could find.
PhilA Posted December 10, 2018 Author Posted December 10, 2018 Probably something similar to this?: Handles at the top coming out and the rope attached to the side of them. Phil somewhatfoolish 1
PhilA Posted December 10, 2018 Author Posted December 10, 2018 Ooh, a heavy box arrived. It's a new 3 ton, low profile jack. It fits under the chassis. This is a good thing.Sadly next to the car it looks small. It isn't small. Phil mat_the_cat, SiC, Skizzer and 6 others 9
SiC Posted December 10, 2018 Posted December 10, 2018 A good jack is the most important tool for a man (and many ladies too of course) PhilA and DeeJay 2
SiC Posted December 11, 2018 Posted December 11, 2018 In other news, the first post in this thread is the fourth most liked post on this forum. http://autoshite.com/best-content/ Dan_ZTT, egg and PhilA 3
DeeJay Posted December 11, 2018 Posted December 11, 2018 A good jack is the most important tool for a man (and many ladies too of course)Oooh, Matron.
PhilA Posted December 11, 2018 Author Posted December 11, 2018 Well, moved things out the way and slotted the jack up under the front. Up under the big cast section that supports the engine and has the lower suspension mounts attached to it. No effort, both wheels up off the floor. This I like. Phil Saabnut, DeeJay, Squire_Dawson and 6 others 9
PhilA Posted December 11, 2018 Author Posted December 11, 2018 Older model variant temperature sender arrived today (Wells TU-4). At room temperature just about 600 Ohms, so that's definitely workable. Now to re-wind the coils to match! Phil LightBulbFun, RayMK, tooSavvy and 5 others 8
somewhatfoolish Posted December 11, 2018 Posted December 11, 2018 Bench meter envy. LightBulbFun and Scruffy Bodger 2
LightBulbFun Posted December 11, 2018 Posted December 11, 2018 Needs more nixie tubes (dont worry I peeled that sticker off and properly rewired it, for those who dont know, white is neutral and black is live on US stuff) Squire_Dawson, Asimo, Ghosty and 2 others 5
somewhatfoolish Posted December 11, 2018 Posted December 11, 2018 I did have one, a british-made one IIRC, but it got downsized in a move. Now I make* do with a Fluke.
PhilA Posted December 12, 2018 Author Posted December 12, 2018 Fiiiiiiine. It's cold out here. Phil Edit: Systron Donner, a branch of Thorn EMI. loserone, LightBulbFun, Asimo and 5 others 8
PhilA Posted December 12, 2018 Author Posted December 12, 2018 Took some measurements of the TU-4 sensor. 100F is 280 ohms180F is 100 ohms230F is 50 ohms Gonna tweak the coils to match now. Rewound to standard to make sure it was actually working (it is). Gonna pull some turns off the left coil to boost how powerful it is. Phil LightBulbFun, DeeJay and somewhatfoolish 3
PhilA Posted December 13, 2018 Author Posted December 13, 2018 Somewhere in the approximate ball park. Further refinement required, I am going to put the sensor in water to hold the temperature longer, and that I can put a thermometer in easily. My infrared thermometer has issues with the shiny brass (I put some matte black paint on it earlier which was kinda ok). Phil Asimo, Scruffy Bodger, Squire_Dawson and 6 others 9
xtriple Posted December 13, 2018 Posted December 13, 2018 Fuck me! I bow to your skills! Words... fail me. I thoghtI did well etting the aues to work in yon V12 but that was simple stuff, you would have barely opened your eyes from a good nights sleep, in fact, you may have done them IN your sleep! LightBulbFun and PhilA 2
PhilA Posted December 15, 2018 Author Posted December 15, 2018 Today we take over the kitchen, much to the chagrin of the wife. Pot of water, thermistor, sugar thermometer, gauge and a battery. Just waiting for it to heat up. DeeJay, LabRat, dome and 4 others 7
Guest Hooli Posted December 15, 2018 Posted December 15, 2018 It's been heating for an hour now, did it work? DeeJay and LightBulbFun 2
LightBulbFun Posted December 15, 2018 Posted December 15, 2018 It's been heating for an hour now, did it work? must be on a slow boil to get the tenderness just right PhilA 1
DeeJay Posted December 15, 2018 Posted December 15, 2018 The wife, "Sod this, get that shit out of my kitchen". Squire_Dawson, LightBulbFun and mrbenn 3
PhilA Posted December 15, 2018 Author Posted December 15, 2018 I had a bit of a poke about, I'm currently plotting temperature versus resistance of the sender. Trying to get the balance of the two coils right- because it's a voltage divider in two coils at right angles, the mathematics has broken my brain so I'm just experimenting right now. Phil Coprolalia, LightBulbFun, somewhatfoolish and 2 others 5
PhilA Posted December 15, 2018 Author Posted December 15, 2018 I have the curve now. Unfortunately today has come to an end due to unexpected overnight guests so I'm running around tidying up the spare room. Phil Coprolalia, LightBulbFun, Scruffy Bodger and 4 others 7
mat_the_cat Posted December 15, 2018 Posted December 15, 2018 Needs more nixie tubes Mine is newer, but I like yours more! I'd settle for even a VFD but nixies are lovely PhilA and LightBulbFun 2
PhilA Posted December 16, 2018 Author Posted December 16, 2018 Thinking on this, to increase the magnetic flux, I must increase the current flowing through the coil. I can do that by reducing the length of the wire, and thus the resistance; however in so doing the number of turns around the bobbin reduce, so in practice net result is more heat produced for very similar magnetic flux. So, the same length of wire is required but more current must pass through it to create a greater flux. Increase the gauge of the wire and more current will flow. I don't have a bigger gauge wire right now so what I can do is wind two lengths of wire on in parallel. I'm going to try see if I can do that tomorrow, if time allows. If my theory is sound then I'll order some larger gauge wire and go from there. Phil Coprolalia 1
PhilA Posted December 16, 2018 Author Posted December 16, 2018 And, I suppose I rather am due providing a bit of an explanation. I think really the simplest way to describe the gauge setup is to use a tug-of-war analogy. Each coil is a team in either end of the rope. The needle position is how far the flag in the center is away from the middle. You bias one team with a few less people, so with no instruction one team is always pulling the other to the end of their run. The needle reads cold. The temperature sender is the equivalent of telling the team with more people to pull less. Eventually they are overcome by the strength of the other team (who are always pulling as hard as they can) and the flag begins to move in their favor. The less you tell the bigger team to pull, the more they are overcome and eventually the smaller team will pull them across (needle reads hot). So, my problem is the bigger team needs to pull with less strength per instruction to pull less. The other team always pull as hard as they can. With the old sensor they'd have to pull 30 pounds less to start to move the flag; now they should only have to pull 10 pounds less to begin to move it. Now work that out where the amount of pull one team makes isn't actually always the same and they're actually pulling at right angles with a flag that changes weight as they pull it... Phil LightBulbFun, mat_the_cat, Skizzer and 4 others 7
timolloyd Posted December 16, 2018 Posted December 16, 2018 Great explanation. Where you/are you a teacher by any chance?
Ghosty Posted December 16, 2018 Posted December 16, 2018 You and your multimeters... PhilA, LightBulbFun and mat_the_cat 3
PhilA Posted December 16, 2018 Author Posted December 16, 2018 Great explanation. Where you/are you a teacher by any chance?Nope. I work with backhaul and IP network delivery. Phil
hairnet Posted December 16, 2018 Posted December 16, 2018 The wife, "Sod this, get that shit out of my kitchen".right before a left hook
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