Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[SiC]

Thanks for the advice guys. It's great to know that there are plenty of knowledgeable minds willing to give guidance on this project.

 

I really need to get this engine crane asap. Before I end up labeling every wiring loom connection...

 

I reckon a lot of this cars electrical woes are down to this. Dirt and corrosion giving many poor connections.

 

Remaking a new loom is something that I really want to do anyway. As others may know from my other threads, I love working on electrics - especially car electrics.

 

The dash section of the loom especially leaves a lot to be desired.

 

I think around the bulkhead is going to need remedial work. Some of it looks to be a bit of structural filler, with metal panel as rebar.

 

I probably should stop poking that area with a screwdriver now...

[vulgalour]

yeah... I didn't poke any of that bulkhead bit, was leaving it alone until I'd done the rest.  Likewise the electrics. I'd forgotten about the behind-the-dash choc blocks, Mike was going to resolder and heatshrink all that lot properly.

[catsinthewelder]

The bulkhead shouldn't be too bad grot wise.  I cut a huge section out and welded some thick steel section in to replace the inner bulkhead with a proper gutter arrangement to hopefully stop it rotting out again.  I'll admit that the facing section of bulkhead isn't the neatest but its not a bit that other people look at so I couldn't be arsed.

[SiC]

This is going to be fun*.

 

At least it's pretty simple.

 

Not sure every light matches it's actual function anymore. E.g. I'm pretty sure the alternator light doesn't work and has been wired up to the oil filter replacement light.

[vulgalour]

What's that green thing that looks a bit like a supermarket scanner jobby?

[Eddie Honda]

If it's not a joke phone,

 

 

it's a Giffer's friend (Dymo Tape Labeller)

[SiC]

Correct!

[Squire_Dawson]

Be careful. Relying on just the engine hooks WILL bend the rocker cover bolts - this method was a carry-over from the Minor and A30 but the added weight of the gearbox &c is too much for the little bolts to bear. You are better off wrapping a lot of rope around and underneath the whole unit.

 

Regarding the wiring loom, Autosparks can make you a new one; an empty shell is easiest when removing and replacing as it was done in the factory. Modern crimps and connections look out of place - when they are visible. As it is plastic coloured wiring it should last indefinitely though.

[OwdChina]

Be careful. Relying on just the engine hooks WILL bend the rocker cover bolts - this method was a carry-over from the Minor and A30 but the added weight of the gearbox &c is too much for the little bolts to bear.

I looked at that and thought oops too.............Those lift brackets are meant to attach with the head bolts.

[Squire_Dawson]

Good to see you back, me 'owd china!

[SiC]

Didn't take too long. About an hour and half.

 

It's allowed me to go through it all too and most of the connections* are in the right place.

 

* Some of the connections don't like to stay connected.

[SiC]

Be careful. Relying on just the engine hooks WILL bend the rocker cover bolts - this method was a carry-over from the Minor and A30 but the added weight of the gearbox &c is too much for the little bolts to bear. You are better off wrapping a lot of rope around and underneath the whole unit.

 

That's interesting, didn't know that. I don't disbelieve you in this, but it's the first I've heard of those bolts not being strong enough. Not sure I can easily get a sling around underneath while making it stable.

 

Regarding the wiring loom, Autosparks can make you a new one; an empty shell is easiest when removing and replacing as it was done in the factory. Modern crimps and connections look out of place - when they are visible. As it is plastic coloured wiring it should last indefinitely though.

I'll probably make my own loom to be honest. I tend to get enjoyment out of such things! It also allows me to put a few more fuses in the circuit too.

 

Originality is not something of importance on this project. Making it safe and work is the primary objectives.

 

Found this company who stocks quite a selection of wire that is the appropriate colours: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/66/category/11

 

Not terribly expensive.

[Mally]

I looked at that and thought oops too.............Those lift brackets are meant to attach with the head bolts.

 

 

I once bought a new gold seal Minor engine with the brks on the rocker bolts.

Admittedly it weighed less but that,s where they used to lift.

If you put a 1"steel bar through the brks, think I ground flats on it to fit, and use that bar to lift from it won't bend anything.

Think I fitted the brks the opposite way so closer together.

[captain_70s]

On my Dolly (not the same but a similar OHV unit) the engine hoisting bracket bit goes on the head bolts.

 

Although the A Series rocker cover bolts do look a bit more substantial than Triumph's effort...

[Squire_Dawson]

Ripaults made the original wiring.

[SiC]

 

 

I really need to get this engine crane asap. Before I end up labeling every wiring loom connection...

[

Some people may have thought I was joking when I said that.

 

Rear loom looks in pretty good condition. I think it may only be the main loom that needs remaking. Maybe the short headlight loom too, if the wire has corroded/oxidised internally and the connectors can't easily be replaced.

[vulgalour]

You'll need to pull the loom out of the sill to do the welding anyway, so this is all good stuff really.  Label printer machine is inspired, might have to get one of those so I can go around labelling things.

[SiC]

I don't know how much they are nowadays, but I don't think I paid more than a tenner for this. Came with a 4m tape that ran out. The replacement set I bought of 5 different coloured tapes was like £13 from Amazon.

 

With the loom out of the door, its a great chance to test the rear section with a power pack. This one is one of the many I own. Unfortunately the current rating of the output is a bit low (only 1.2A) but this was easily grabbable.

 

Side lights

 

Left indicator

 

Right indicator

 

Brake light(s)

 

Looks like some inspection will be required back there.

[vulgalour]

If it helps any, the brakes worked fine right up until the sealed beam headlight fizzled out, then it started doing what it's doing to you now.  I'm guessing it's an earth problem of some sort.

[SiC]

Brake light isn't actually a problem. Just needed more juice. Broke out one of my bigger power supplies.

 

Actually quite a lot of current flowing through the brake light bulbs.

14v * 3.14a = 44w

Which checks out correctly for 2x 22w bulbs. However its not too surprising that these modern brake light fluid switches burn out. I bet their contacts aren't rated for that.

[SiC]

More power fixed* the left indicator too!

 

Current is a bit higher than the right (~400mA more), so I suspect it's still leaking electrons through elsewhere. Still ok when volts turned down too. Pretty certain its the earths or bulb holders on the rear lights.

 

Even when it hit the current limiter earlier (at 1A), the other lights should have not lit up too.

 

The loom has a black wire cut off in it. So I guess the factory wiring originally had the earth going back through the loom. Hence probably a new earth has been added for them at some point. I suspect the design team had a good reason for doing this (even if Lucas prince of darkness).

[MikeKnight]

Label printer machine is inspired, might have to get one of those so I can go around labelling things.

 

Please no. I'll wake up and everything in the house will be labelled, including me. "Twat".

 

Good to know I can't be blamed for the electrics, all I did was wire up the ignition so it could be started, honest mister. That blue female spade that looks completely out of place on the fusebox, that's me that is.

[SiC]

I don't think anyone can be blamed for the electrics except age and corrosion. Isn't really too much wrong with them. Apart from maybe the screw terminals behind the dash too. I hate screw terminal blocks in cars. Crimps or solder. For most, crimping is better as it's much easier to make a better joint than soldering (with a half decent crimp tool).

[Felly Magic]

Glad you are getting stuck in to this purple bit of BLMC chod. I could just see Vulg running round the house with that label machine, giggling like a 5 year old. I used to love messing about with an old Dymo label machine as a kid, you could tell when dad labelled something up, he can't spell to save his life

[MikeKnight]

Screw terminals, "choc blocks", are good for testing or getting something running quick for a car show but that's it.

 

I tend to use good quality crimp connectors and leave it at that with the caveat that it's tight and secure. If it's in a place that's going to get battered by the elements or if the wiring is thin/poor and the connector keeps falling off then it gets soldered and heat shrinked.

[SiC]

They're expensive, but I really like the crimps with the heat shrink and hotmelt glue in. Crimp, then shrink & seal with a heatgun.

 

[SiC]

Looking through the dash layouts, the other dash that I have spare is a period and model correct item. Not sure if the 2 door came as a super de-luxe mind.

 

This is the one in the car currently:

 

This is the spare dash:

 

I believe the spare dash, from reading through the cars history on here, is an ex-Bo11ocks unit from an Austin 1100 that was scrapped. Pretty sure I'll use this dash when I put it all back together, as the single dial unit is literally falling apart. Plus the gauge is pretty manky looking.

 

Also more importantly, the super de-luxe has more dials. More dials is good! (I might fit an auxiliary oil pressure gauge too )

[Angrydicky]

Reminds me very much of a white 1100 Mk2 2dr that turned up in Kirbys scrapyard about 2009, it was for sale, I asked how much and he said £300. At the time, it seemed expensive, so I left it. The sills had holes both sides and the drivers floor was bent up by the forklift, but it was very original and not really that rusty. Floor etc was solid. I remember it had the central speedo in the square surround and I was surprised as had never seen one so equipped before.

It had a local reg TJN 370H, and about 50k on the clock. Often wondered what happened to it. The one that got away.

[Eddie Honda]

Also more importantly, the super de-luxe has more dials. More dials is good! 

 

If that's your logic, then get a GT dash, black crackle finish instead of fake wood and even more holes:

 

[SiC]

Oo tempting! Not sure that the performance from the 1098 justifies the 1300GT extravagance though.

 

Looking around, there isn't much in the way of tuning options for the 1098 either. Certainly not like there is for the 1275. I believe it's not a popular lump to tune, not helped by that it's not as strong as the 1275 either.