Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[SiC]

Thanks for all the kind words everyone. They definitely help the ol' motivation - especially on projects like this.

 

Got the top of the sill mostly welded in. Completely forgot that you're supposed to check the shut line! Bugger. Oh well, I'm too far in welding this now to go back. Hopefully should be alright as I'm going against the old sill top. Anyway it's 1970s British Leyland. If the shut line was too good, then it wouldn't look original. Right? (I'm sticking to that excuse )

 

I was hoping to puddle weld and put a bead across. Unfortunately the metal underneath is too bent to puddle weld. The bead is quite messy. My excuse is that I was welding by torch light again!

 

My puddle welds.

 

This bit looks even more messy as I had to chase some of the holes that blew through. Not sure if thin steel because old or because I was a bit too vigorous on the flap wheel again.

 

I'm definitely going to have to try grinding that back as it's especially noticeable area. Again, I'm not totally happy it's penetrated all the way through. I need to set the welder a bit higher power I think. Or I'm too quick with the torch.

 

Started drilling out the top plate. The bottom plate I can easily get to by cutting a hole in the pillar. The top isn't as easy.

 

Got all the way through with a 5mm bit. Wasn't quite enough to break it through. So went in with a 6mm bit (I broke my 5.5mm earlier).

 

Which broke as well. But this time it's well and truly stuck there.

 

Balls.

[vulgalour]

The welding can get a bit demoralising, pays to take a break from it now and then and to change tack if you can to do something less demanding.  The amount of welding you've got through on this is impressive and it's great to see updates on all that nice new steel going back in.  Don't forget, you've stablised the floor, rear arch and the sill now, that's a massive amount of work by anyone's estimation, and you're doing it outside on your drive which is certainly more challenging than a nice cosy workshop!

[They_all_do_that_sir]

I've never welded anything in my life, so watching all this is quite encouraging. Some day I'll have to give it a go though thankfully I've nothing that needs touched with the sparkle stick (touch wood)

 

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[DodgeRover]

I think those screw heads would have been much larger than PZ4, on the bonus side you could probably replace them with some countersunk Allen cap bolts,

[SiC]

 

 

The welding can get a bit demoralising, pays to take a break from it now and then and to change tack if you can to do something less demanding. The amount of welding you've got through on this is impressive and it's great to see updates on all that nice new steel going back in. Don't forget, you've stablised the floor, rear arch and the sill now, that's a massive amount of work by anyone's estimation, and you're doing it outside on your drive which is certainly more challenging than a nice cosy workshop!

I've got the next couple of weekends to myself as Mrs SiC is off doing her own thing. If the weather is nice, I just need to power on and get it done. There isn't a lot else I can be getting on with just yet either. Need to order in a clutch puller tool so I can get on with the engine. There is the wiring too I have to start planning and buying the necessary lengths of wire. But that all can be done once it's colder, wetter and darker.

 

I've never welded anything in my life, so watching all this is quite encouraging. Some day I'll have to give it a go though thankfully I've nothing that needs touched with the sparkle stick (touch wood)

 

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One great thing about learning to weld is the chod possibilities that are opened up. Many people run scared of having to do any welding. So cars with even only a small amount of metal work needed for MOTs are sold cheap or thrown away.

 

 

I think those screw heads would have been much larger than PZ4, on the bonus side you could probably replace them with some countersunk Allen cap bolts,

It's a bit sacrilege but if I can, I'd like to use torx screws. They're unfairly hated but they are designed not to cam out or round off - unlike hex or Philips head screws. I was hoping the captive plate that the threads stripped on was something fairly BMC generic. However after having a look around, I can't find anything else that has the same plate.

[Mally]

 

 

One great thing about learning to weld is the chod possibilities that are opened up. Many people run scared of having to do any welding. So cars with even only a small amount of metal work needed for MOTs are sold cheap or thrown away.

 

 

 

 

Welding holds no fear to you.

A massive achievement in such a short time.

[DodgeRover]

That captive plate - if you can access the rear of it to weld then drill the holes to a clearance size and weld appropriate nuts to the rear of them, put the torqs screws in first to hold the nut in position.

 

Torqs is a good choice, they use them on modern stuff for a reason, as long as you have the correct bit you can get an amazing amount of pressure on them.

[SiC]

Not easy to get to the back. The wing is welded on, so I'd have to cut it off at the top. It could do with a new wing to be fair (it's pretty rotten), however they're quite expensive. Anyway they are still made, so I can always get one in the future.

 

The bottom plate is easy to get to and the inside panel on the a-pillar needs welding up anyway. However the top one less so as there is the dashboard support beam/brace going across. I don't really want to cut that off to get in there. Might see if I cut a hole at the bottom of the pillar on the inside and try tunneling upwards. I think the captive plates live in their own little box to stop them falling out. It's why I was trying to drill out the top plate to see if I could save it without removing it.

[They_all_do_that_sir]

Who needs doors anyway

 

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[Eddie Honda]

Just make a new plate. Scrounge offcuts in the appropriate thickness and drill/tap new holes to your favourite thread.

[Noel Tidybeard]

go gentle with a tungsten carbide bit?

[DodgeRover]

You could probably just tap then to the next size up, I'm guessing you will be using metric torq bolts so you should be able to manage it ok.

[Arthur Foxhake]

Hammer a Bini over it?

[sharley17194]

I have some plates and replacement screws if they are of use.

 

Not easy to get to the back. The wing is welded on, so I'd have to cut it off at the top. It could do with a new wing to be fair (it's pretty rotten), however they're quite expensive. Anyway they are still made, so I can always get one in the future.

The bottom plate is easy to get to and the inside panel on the a-pillar needs welding up anyway. However the top one less so as there is the dashboard support beam/brace going across. I don't really want to cut that off to get in there. Might see if I cut a hole at the bottom of the pillar on the inside and try tunneling upwards. I think the captive plates live in their own little box to stop them falling out. It's why I was trying to drill out the top plate to see if I could save it without removing it.

[SiC]

As mentioned in another thread, I've managed to bag a genuine NOS Smiths oil pressure gauge off eBay for only 20quid shipped. Should help my mind keep at rest by knowing the pressure. Also a very period accessory.

 

My intention is likely to replace the second gauge on the dash from a combined engine temp/fuel level gauge to a rev counter. Need to find a suitable rev counter, but I think the MGB ones are a correct size. The left gauge will be the Speedo. Then put a oil pressure gauge and fuel gauge as pods on the side. Any additional warning lights that are not catered for on the dials I will put on a panel where the front ash tray used to be.

[SiC]

I had about 1/8th of the gas left in the (fourth) bottle. So I got on with some welding tonight to use it up. Finished off the welding along the top of the sill. Wizzed along with the flap disc to take any big bumps off. Then whacked up the power on the weld and put another bead on top to tidy up and make sure it's fully penetrated.

 

Found out today that if you dial in the metal thickness and arc length in the auto mode, when you switch to MIG manual it will automatically set it to the values that it was going to start with in auto mode. Something that isn't documented anywhere in the manuals. So I did this and then upped the voltage a fair bit to get a nice fat bead down to try tidying the welds up.

 

Still needs another going over with the grinder again as some of the metal blew holes through and required filling in. Some of it is very thin and requires care with the torch and flap discs.

 

Time to buy yet another gas refill. Kinda wished I got a bigger bottle. Probably not worth it now as I'll probably only need this next fill hopefully for the otherside and that'll be it. Still on the same 5kg wire reel though! Probably ought to consider buying another soon. Not clear really how much of it is left.

 

Luckily it's payday tomorrow!

[SiC]

I have some plates and replacement screws if they are of use.

Definitely would be useful. I need to figure out how to get the top plate out. Any suggestions? I don't really want to cut big chunks out as the metal in this bit is in very good condition. Feels a shame to cut it out and then have to weld it back on again when it's original metal.

[PhilA]

As mentioned in another thread, I've managed to bag a genuine NOS Smiths oil pressure gauge off eBay for only 20quid shipped. Should help my mind keep at rest by knowing the pressure. Also a very period accessory.

My intention is likely to replace the second gauge on the dash from a combined engine temp/fuel level gauge to a rev counter. Need to find a suitable rev counter, but I think the MGB ones are a correct size. The left gauge will be the Speedo. Then put a oil pressure gauge and fuel gauge as pods on the side. Any additional warning lights that are not catered for on the dials I will put on a panel where the front ash tray used to be.

MGB ones are the correct size and have the correct redline for the 1100 (6000) but don't have the IGNITION red light in the bottom. Avoid 68-73 Midget, the 1275 has a 6300 redline.

 

Phil

[Guest Hooli]

As mentioned in another thread, I've managed to bag a genuine NOS Smiths oil pressure gauge off eBay for only 20quid shipped. Should help my mind keep at rest by knowing the pressure. Also a very period accessory.

 

My intention is likely to replace the second gauge on the dash from a combined engine temp/fuel level gauge to a rev counter. Need to find a suitable rev counter, but I think the MGB ones are a correct size. The left gauge will be the Speedo. Then put a oil pressure gauge and fuel gauge as pods on the side. Any additional warning lights that are not catered for on the dials I will put on a panel where the front ash tray used to be.

 

 

1970s BoyRacer spec!

[DodgeRover]

Do you know about this one? That is a 2 door 1100 in the back left corner isn't it? Smiths of Bloxham apparently

 

[SiC]

No! 2 door as well. What's the yard like on their pricing?

[DodgeRover]

Absolutely no idea unfortunately, just saw it on a facebook post from today

[cobblers]

I'm getting a bit fed up of the welding now. Actually the welding is ok, it's the grinding. My god do I hate grinding. Hate hate hate. I imagine my neighbours hate it too.

 

Yeah, I welded window recesses into my T25 panel van a years ago (in hindsight I feel bad for cutting it up) but I spent four days solid very gently grinding all the welds back so I didn't warp things.

 

 

 

I did repeatedly apologise to my mothers neighbours and took days off in the week instead of doing it over a weekend, but I still feel bad.

[vulgalour]

Looks like that 2 door scrapyard car is sporting rear pop-out windows.  They're worth grabbing for the extra cabin ventilation if nothing else.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Do you know about this one? That is a 2 door 1100 in the back left corner isn't it? Smiths of Bloxham apparently

 

44795352_10156286548186888_6324585359086714880_n.jpg

 

 

It's still there.

 

FXF203H started life as a white 1100 four door and a mate and I rebuilt it into the blue 2 door shell 15 years ago or so, a 1300 Auto with a fucked engine and no docs. The engine was superb but with a snick into second gear, as per. It was a decent thing but it was parked outside from around 2012 and left to rot, which it did very well #because1100

[320touring]

Good work!

 

Those outer sleeve look very similar in profile to the Oxford's..

 

Do they curve under to the middle sill?

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Next to the 1100, just out of shot, is a 1957 Morris Isis. 

[SiC]

Firstly this update I have to say thanks again to Phil for selling me his crane and engine stand at a very reasonable price. Otherwise there's a large chance the engine would be still stuck in the car.

 

With the winter starting to approach I need to get on with jobs that can be done inside. Over the last few months I've been tripping over this in the way. Hasn't helped that I've been storing the 1100 seats in the garage. They've been temporarily shipped off to my brother-in-law garage 60 miles away.

 

Notice the mount poll sticking out. I bought this mount for an eye watering £35 during when eBay was doing a 10% off event. Did consider making one but I reckoned by the time I bought a thick steel sheet, pipe off cut and bits it wasn't too difference in price. Also handy that I knew it would bolt straight on without too much trouble.

I guess I will likely be able to easily sell the mount piece back on again after anyway?

 

I'll need this.

 

But first I need to put these bits back together.

 

Like this.

 

First attempt.

 

Unfortunately the arm didn't extend out far enough.

 

So I tried it the other way around.

 

Which worked!

 

Next job is to plug the orifices and give it a good wash down to remove the years of muck.

 

In the mean time it has cleared up the garage and made it much easier to move around in. Wish I could work in the garage on the car, but I am grateful that I have a decent enough drive to work on and a place to store tools.

[Squire_Dawson]

1957 Morris Isis. 

 

WHO, WHAT AND WHERE???

[LightBulbFun]

WHO, WHAT AND WHERE???

 

 

Oi thats the same reaction I have when someone posts a picture of an invacar