Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[busmansholiday]

It takes time to fine tune the process, once you have it spot on it will all flow much more smoothly.

Absolutely. I've had plenty of practice welding MGBs but your doing very well for a first time effort (a lot better than me). Take your time and don't panic. As for Elf and Safely, as you may recall I spent my working like in it. I've seen some horrific pictures of what happens if you take the guard off an angle grinder.

Just don't, and always wear gloves masks etc.!

[Saabnut]

Just wanted to add that for a first effort that looks really, really good. I used to do a lot of welding but have not picked up a torch for over 25 years, and have just bought myself a decent welder, mask etc and if my first efforts look that good, I will be happy.

 

Also to reiterate what others have said about guards on grinders, a chap at work in Norway was working in the yard with a 9" grinder and removed the guard "to get to it". The disk shattered. He died. There is a lot of blood in a human body. There was more paperwork than blood. Something I never want to see again. Take care.

[richardthestag]

Ignore this piece of advice.

 

Never ever use a grinder without it's guard.

 

Even a flap disc will inflict a serious injury.

 

I'm not a huge one for health and safety bollocks,but an angle grinder is a dangerous tool.

 

 

I agree with everything you said honestly I do BUT

 

this when new or even used will fit within the guard on a 110mm grinder - well not at least any of the three that I own, all different makes from quality to cheap B&Q

 

 

 

 in fact none of the 115mm flap discs will fit inside a guard when new. Nor will these when new but like worn flappydiscs they do as they start to wear down. so start flapping, then stop strip down the grinder, fit guard, replace safety ppi clothing and carry on. etc

 

 

 

which Is which I wear welding gloves when using the angle grinder, always have two hands on the machine when it is running and also always use the screw in hand grip to protect me against the machine grabbing the work piece

 

I never grind without a full face mask, + I also wear safety eye glasses when working anyway for added protect to my eyes.

 

Then on top of all that I often wear my leather welding apron while doing this sort of stuff.

 

Oh and what protection does the guard offer when using one of these?

 

 

I can tell you not a lot. still picking little bits of wire out of my trousers lol

 

So in summary I always use the guard where I can. cutting especially as you use it to divert majority of sparks where you want them.

 

But it is not always possible so you just have to be sensible.

 

 

strewth this is as bad as my mum moaning about me letting the kids play with a jigsaw! gah it is not like they are going to plug it in is it ?

 

[Mally]

It is possible to burn a garage down with sparks from a flap disc.

Fortunately you don't have a garage.

Looks good to me,

[richardthestag]

It is possible to burn a garage down with sparks from a flap disc.

Fortunately you don't have a garage.

Looks good to me,

 

and that is a really valid point.

 

I make sure that I work in the garage or workshop I stay for a couple of hours after last welding or grinding. anything that is likely to smoulder will be found hopefully by this point

 

There is a lot of shit and oily rags around my workshop and the barn. I do have a clear up after every big job but still. it is risky

 

When welding I try to have a second set of eyes with a damp rag to snub out any underseal or sound deadening that I might not notice while under the vehicle welding upside down

[Scruffy Bodger]

A lot of good potential pitfalls being pointed out in this thread. All common sense stuff but sometimes it gets forgotten.

 

As for grinders etc. I recently has the pleasure of being able to use a 20mm finger sander as recommended by TripleRich and his mate. Not a cheap option but a very worthwhile investment imo. Grinding welds, removing paint and underseal in places simply impossible to access with a grinder with speed and ease. So much easier to use than a twisted knot cup brush, they can be simply fucking savage even if you are used to using them and their little idiosyncrasies* 

[richardthestag]

have one of those ^^ v useful for little bits and tight gaps.

 

but less so when it comes to tidying feet of pigeon shite

[SiC]

 

 

It is possible to burn a garage down with sparks from a flap disc.

Fortunately you don't have a garage.

Looks good to me,

I do have a garage!

 

I have covered up the oils with fire blankets just in case.

[captain_70s]

I set fire to a few things at Foadwerx while welding, some of them weren't even myself.

[Scruffy Bodger]

have one of those ^^ v useful for little bits and tight gaps.

 

but less so when it comes to tidying feet of pigeon shite

 

Really? With a rough grit belt you have to be careful with this one that you don't take too much metal off with the weld!

[SiC]

I set fire to a few things at Foadwerx while welding, some of them weren't even myself.

That is my biggest fear. It's why I invested in these.

 

They were surprisingly good value at 50 quid shipped (plus a free mini extinguisher for a car)

[SiC]

I usually hate cheap tools (especially AM-Tech/Silverline/Blackspur/etc), but this has good reviews. Also something that I don't know I'd use enough to justify paying upwards of a £100 for something Makita.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00J8UITSS

[Scruffy Bodger]

Money slightly wasted there...? On the back of my welder is a fire extinguisher bottle full of co2, it's just painted black and the spanner to release it is always kept in the welders side panel,  just in case.

 

I think you'll find yours is pretty similar.

 

Prevention is always better than the last resort of course.

[richardthestag]

kitchen fire blankets or welding sheets are useful things to have around to protect glass and fabrics from grinder sparks.

 

Also you might just be surprised /disappointed at exactly how far a grinder spark will travel. so do not do it near anything with paint on it that you care about keeping nice

[SiC]

Money slightly wasted there...? On the back of my welder is a fire extinguisher bottle full of co2, it's just painted black and the spanner to release it is always kept in the welders side panel, just in case.

 

I think you'll find yours is pretty similar.

 

Prevention is always better than the last resort of course.

Not mine. Mine has argon written on it with only a dash of CO2.

 

Davenumbers did suggest it but to be honest, I'm not sure if I could get it undone and off before the fire got out of hand.

[PhilA]

Argon will also work to put out a fire.

 

CO2 is just a cheaper gas.

 

 

Phil

[Scruffy Bodger]

Yep, I remember him mentioning it   I get my bottles re-filled at a fire extinguisher supplier so the dots are pretty easy to join, thankfully I've never had to resort to it yet.

 

As for finger sanders, http://autoshite.com/topic/26156-1982-rover-sd1-v8-moving-forward/page-2 I asked the pro's, the answers I was given were on #54 if they do one in electric 20mm may well be a better option than an air powered one and cheaper too I should think.

[cort16]

I got my finger sander power file thing from Aldi for 20 quid and it’s extremely useful.

 

I was welding the allegro today and was reminded how hard butt welding .8mm bl metal is. My welder will JUST weld it and blows holes like a bastard . As a result I’m chasing holes and it looks like a right dogs dinner. Once it’s knocked back with the grinder it’ll be fine.

[SiC]

I thought I remembered seeing them somewhere for cheap. I guess it was a few months ago now when they had them?

[SiC]

Yep, I remember him mentioning it I get my bottles re-filled at a fire extinguisher supplier so the dots are pretty easy to join, thankfully I've never had to resort to it yet.

 

As for finger sanders, http://autoshite.com/topic/26156-1982-rover-sd1-v8-moving-forward/page-2 I asked the pro's, the answers I was given were on #54 if they do one in electric 20mm may well be a better option than an air powered one and cheaper too I should think.

Yeah I'll have to go electric. My 50quid Lidl compressor will never have enough umpfh to drive a power file. The air ones are also horrifically noisy. At least the one they use at my local garage is.

[Guest Hooli]

I got my finger sander power file thing from Aldi for 20 quid and it’s extremely useful.

 

That's where I got mine too. Never opened it yet though so glad to hear they are good.

[Scruffy Bodger]

Whatever happens, you've made a very good start, as you were

[cort16]

Here’s a shell for sale in Facebook . Looks solid, could be great for parts

 

https://m.facebook.com/groups/390896610925969?view=permalink&id=2328731247142486&rt=11&ref=bookmarks

[sharley17194]

Bonus! those co2 extinguishers make great emergency welding gas when your bottle goes empty halfway through a job!

 

That is my biggest fear. It's why I invested in these.



They were surprisingly good value at 50 quid shipped (plus a free mini extinguisher for a car)

[chaseracer]

I was welding the allegro today and was reminded how hard butt welding .8mm bl metal is...

 

I read that and thought: Eight mill?  That's a bit thick for an Allegro!

 

I probably need to use my reading glasses more.

[SiC]

Here’s a shell for sale in Facebook . Looks solid, could be great for parts

 

https://m.facebook.com/groups/390896610925969?view=permalink&id=2328731247142486&rt=11&ref=bookmarks

Would be great but no room to store such a thing at the moment.

[320touring]

Would be great but no room to store such a thing at the moment.

Buy it, turn up with a battery grinder.

 

Remove parts you need

 

Contact local scrap collector

 

 

Boom

[SiC]

More metal bashing today.

 

I've decided that I'm unlikely to be able to get the footwell in one piece. Too many bends, curves and bits to cut for me to get it right. Instead I'm going to try welding all the bits round in seperate pieces. That way the final footwell can be just a flat square piece of metal with a corner cut out to suit.

 

I started on the inner sill side. This was pretty thin in bits and breaking away.

 

So I cut it out to try and square it off.

 

Made a template.

 

And made metal to fit. I flap disc all the Zintec coating off too. Don't really want to risk breathing in any nasties when welding.

 

I'm pretty happy how that bit turned out and how well it fits. I also templated up the other side. Unfortunately the footwell sheet I have is a bit too short. So I'm going to have to get a fresh bit of metal and make it from that.

 

Also hand wire brushed the subframe mount area of the footwell. No pictures as I forgot (I'll try and remember next time). However I'm a lot happier now on how that looks. It's a bit thin on the bottom, but that's only a small section. Easily cut out and replaced with a square piece.

 

The buggered subframe mount area has previously been welded on as a section. As that's all rusted away but not the metal it was mounting too, I can cut the repair bits off and replace without making it too big a job.

 

Hoping I'm going to get some time this weekend to get these bits welded in. Probably won't get the floor finished, but hopefully by the end of the weekend it'll just be one final piece to do on that.

 

Then I have to decide where I start next!

[SiC]

Buy it, turn up with a battery grinder.

 

Remove parts you need

 

Contact local scrap collector

 

 

Boom

No time unfortunately.

 

I only have 2 days holiday left until October. Those days I need to book off soon to get on with welding this back together.

[SiC]

Got some welding in again today. As I was Haynes in the morning & early afternoon, I didn't get too much time in the afternoon to get too much done.

 

Put this piece in.

 

Ground back the welds as much as I could. There is a limit to the amount of sparks flying around and at you, that one can withstand. My plan is to run another bead across this once I get the floor in.

 

Also got another plate in on the other side. Still need to finish off doing a full seam across this. As there is the hydrolastic pipe and (empty) fuel pipe underneath, I wrapped that with the fire blanket. Even so, it still involved putting down a tack, putting out the fire, hitting with a hammer to shape, tack, put out fire and repeat.

 

Reasonable penetration I think? Doesn't matter too much, as said I'll run a bead over the top to make sure it's all glued in.

 

Ground these back too.

 

Nearly ready for the last bit of the floor now!

 

My plan is to cut out the bit marked in green and then fit the floor in two pieces. One bit on the bottom that is mostly a rectangle. Second bit on the front that has a chunk out and needs to bend up over the mount. Picture sideways - right is the front of the car.