Jump to content

The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Does anyone want to take it on ...?

Recommended Posts

properly lovely these cars...... mine was absolutely shagged though, and I thought I'd 'checked'!

Best of luck wi your first resto...... if you're estimating end of year - 2020 should be doable

I didn't check this one but got told it was shagged before I bought it! :D


Spoken to a couple of mates who are going to give me a hand to help pull the engine. They've not pulled a lump before, so will be a learning exercise for them too. I may drop and remove the fuel tank too, to give one more less thing to catch fire.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you actually need to remove the engine?

Yes of course! I want to learn how to. :mrgreen:


In all seriousness, the clutch is jammed/siezed and it'd give me a chance to properly clean out and check the engine bay. I'll probably change the clutch while I'm at it. Plus I need to replace the Schrader valve on the suspension, which will possibly possible to not need removing the whole pipe if the engine is out the way. Finally, the lack of weight in the front should make it easier to move around on my drive.


When it's out, I'll probably give it a clean down and paint too. Plus maybe do a few other bits to it, like replace commonly gaskets that leak. Going through the cars history on catsinthewelder thread, it appears it has had oil pressure issues when hot. So I might replace out the oil pump + oil pressure relief valve while its an easy job to do.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Removing the engine, for the amount of work you're planning, is probably best done by dropping the whole subframe out with wheels and suspension attached.  You'll need to disconnect brake lines, cables, suspension interconnecting pipes, etc. but once done you should then be able to just roll the subframe out from under the car.  You can then work on the subframe lump on rainy days/evenings and work on the engine bay on the nicer days.  It'll weigh about as much as an empty crisp packet with the subframes off too, so you might want to put a big rock on it to stop it blowing away.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was thinking about dropping the whole subframe, but the guys on mk1-forum reckoned pulling the engine will be easier and quicker. Plus it leaves wheels on still for me. Once the engine is out, I can always drop the subframe separately.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Aqua green (or whatever this early 70s turquoise colour is called) is THE best colour for these, and Minis too. FACT.




Yep, that's Aqua.  The colour of the estate I owned unitl it was demolished by a Ford Ranger pick-up on the A12, whose driver may* have been 3 times over the drink drive limit.  Also my favourite colour for 70s 1100s, just beating limeflower.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

It was his third such conviction; he was still banned from the first, but he hadn't thought to tell his employer this, whose vehicle he also wrote off.  Whilst I'm not going to suggest that crash protection hasn't improved since ado16s were made, a relatively high speed crash in one fitted with static seat belts didn't result in the instant death many people seem to think is certain to happen if tthey don't keep buying new cars with whatever the latest safety innovation is.  In fact I walked away without a scratch.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

A few more pictures, this time in the day light. I've emptied the inside but it's gone dark now. I'll try and get a few more pictures another day of the bits that need welding.






This is the wheel offset that Vulgalour was saying about and buggers his back up. I'm sat straight ahead in this picture.



Very weird. It's like they put the steering column in the wrong place at the factory! I can only guess that they must have ran out of room to move it further over.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

After a good fiddle and poke around tonight, I've made a to-do list. It's not in any particular order.


Ready? Let's go!


Welding - Drivers footwell

Welding - Drivers footwell subframe mounting

Welding - offside cross member bottom panel

Welding - offside rear floor

Welding - drivers inner sill

Welding - drivers sill membrane

Welding - drivers outer sill

Welding - drivers closing panel

Welding - offside rear subframe mount

Welding - drivers a-pillar

Welding - passenger inner sill

Welding - passenger sill membrane

Welding - offside rear arch

Welding - offside rear arch liner join to arch

Welding - both side rear of arch to boot side floor

Welding - behind master cylinders

Welding - heater box mounting

Welding - seat stay reinforcement

Mech - remove engine

Mech - unsieze & replace clutch

Mech - replace oil pump

Mech - replace/inspect oil pressure relief valve

Mech - clean and paint engine

Mech - rebuild carb

Mech - replace front brake flexis

Mech - replace rear brake flexi

Mech - replace brake master

Mech - replace/clean up clutch master

Mech - inspect & clean up front brakes

Mech - inspect & clean up rear brakes

Mech - inspect and possibly replace front to rear brake pipe

Mech - inspect front suspension bushes

Mech - inspect rear suspension bushes

Mech - service! Oil, filter, sparking plugs, coolant, points, distributor cap+rotor

Mech - inspect distributor (e.g. vac advance)

Mech - replace hydrolastic Schrader valve

Mech - fix windscreen washer

Mech - flush radiator

Mech - refit heater box

Mech - fix/replace seat belts (passenger side missing)

Elec - inspect/rebuild wiring loom

Elec - fix indicators

Elec - fix lights

Elec - replace front lights

Elec - battery clamp

Elec - remove steering lock barrel

Elec - replace condenser with High Quality

Elec - fuse alternator, main and starter circuits (e.g. Mégane II battery fuses)

Elec - replace battery connection wires

Elec - check all systems

Body - replace boot seal

Body - inspect rubber seals

Body - tighten any loose fittings (e.g. door handles)

Body - refurbish seats

Body - replace carpet

Body - replace rear view mirror

Body - unify locks

Body - replace gear gaiter rubber

Body - paint!




This is going to keep me busy for a while.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



SiC, mate, you’re fucking stupid for taking this on.




If you need any tools or help please let me know

I would be massively thankful if yourself or someone in the South / South-West of England or Wales could teach me the basics of how to weld and weld safely! I still haven't had a chance to start practicing. Mike has advised me that where I was going to start practicing, I need to put up a welding curtain so I don't get myself into trouble. My biggest concern is setting fire to something like the neighbours fence, car or even the garage.


I'm also struggling to find a source of sheet metal. The offcuts I got from eBay don't look like ordinary mild steel and more galvanized stuff. Not something I really want to be practicing on.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

That list above looks big, but it's expanded out pretty deeply. A fair few can be left till later or may not even need doing once I get to those bits.


A bit daunting at first, but once you go through there isn't anything too bad. Biggest risk to the project is that there's a lot of welding. No doubt will be other bits I haven't come across yet either too.


I just wished I had a bigger space I could do this work in.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Washer pump - check the pipes on the back of the pump haven't fallen off and that there's fluid in the bottle.  Then give the plunger a few pushes, it might be that the pipework needs repriming.  It does work, and quite well, or it did when I tested it out.


Seatbelts - fronts are from a P6 and the 1100's originals are fitted in the rear, if I remember what Cats told me when picking up the car.  Not sure why the passenger belt is missing, I know the latch side is there because I tucked it into the seat and I didn't have cause to remove the other half, I assume it was in the car.  Perhaps it wasn't?


Indicators - I can't remember if I replaced the driver's front, or if that was the dicky holder.  A new bulb/wiggle of the old bulb should sort it.  The stalk is a bit of a duff connection, after a bit of use they do wake up and work reliably but I think the connections are corroded slightly from lack of use.


You may need a battery clamp too, I can't remember if there was one or not.  You'll definitely need a rocker cover gasket, in part because it's weeping and because being an A Series, TADTS.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the sheet steel I was slicing bits from as a type of shield near me welding...... if you get back to clean metal and set up and prep it properly you'll minimise the spatter..... you'll nail it I'm sure. Plenty of online vids to help too.


I'd advise trying to minimise wind too if doing it all outside...... makes it a sodding nightmare, especially if learning, you'll never know if it's you or the conditions.



As an aside...... as your posts seem to be thinking of extraordinary ways of improving things. How about BMW bike engine head on the Austin lump while it's out? Just sayin like

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

It is indeed a case of just cracking on and doing it, it's the finding time/motivation to crack on and do it that'd be the hard part.


There is also quite the difference between doing a job to a standard of it being functional but neither pretty or perfect (the way I do things) and being done "properly" as you tend to have done with your MGB. One is quite a lot harder and more time consuming than the other!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm also struggling to find a source of sheet metal. The offcuts I got from eBay don't look like ordinary mild steel and more galvanized stuff. Not something I really want to be practicing on.

PC tower case side covers, gas central heating boiler casings/ covers, washing machine sides. Grab a bent bonnet from your local body shop.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm also struggling to find a source of sheet metal. The offcuts I got from eBay don't look like ordinary mild steel and more galvanized stuff. Not something I really want to be practicing on.

Generally galv tends to be mentioned as such as is more expensive, although you could give these guy's a shot:



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By egg
      Caveat - I have not sealed the deal on this. This could easily go pear-shaped and is utter insanity anyway. However there is a MK12 Invacar for £300 here:


      Could anyone offer transport to me please? This would be to my rented lock-up in Whitstable CT5.

      155 miles.


      Obviously I would be paying you for this. Preference is to keep in house though given the absurdity!
    • By Tickman
      First some background:
      I was brought up with no car interest, a car was transport and nothing more which resulted in a selection of poor cheap cars being the cars of my youth.
      Fast forward many years (just over 9 years ago) and I have a wonderful* Vauxhall Vectra estate to carry us about. Unfortunately it is crap and throws fault codes at us with nothing being there when it is checked (even at Vauxhall)
      As Mrs T is the main pilot of this chariot with the two little miss T's on board, it has to go.
      The hunt is on for the new steed to safely and comfortably carry the family around. I have a company car at the time so big journeys are not an issue.
      ebay is my weapon of choice to find the new family car. It has to be good value cheap for no other reason than I am tight.
      Weeks of research with lots of cars that are too expensive and too far away for easy collection end up in my watch list.
      Finally a possible is spotted in Fife. I go and have a look and find a poor looking but solid car. One previous owner and lots of history.
      The auction was to end on the Saturday at midday, we were going to be out! I decided on how much I was willing to gamble on it and on the Saturday morning I put in my max bid but straight away it went to my max bid, I was winning but it had three hours to go with no room for me to go up! We went out anyway.
      I spent the next three hours kicking myself for not bidding more while we were out as it was the first car I had seen that fitted my criteria. Fate was in charge.
      On returning home I go straight on ebay to find 'Congratulations.............'
      For the grand total of £500 I had just won this fine vehicle!

      It has 5 months MOT and after fitting seat belts in the rear for the girls car seats it is pushed into daily service.
      My gamble and subsequent use results in a perfectly reliable car that actually does what it is supposed to do.
      Even more importantly Mrs T loves it so a win all round.
      All my cars have names (most are earned over a bit of time) and this one is called 'Gwendolen' ( G reg car and from Wales originally. I hate the name but I am not going to argue)
      That sums up part one, more will be along later (probably much later)
    • By PhilA
      Well, here we go again. I bit the bullet and bought me this.


      It's still up at the lot right now, there will be a miniature Collection Thread embedded in this thread when I go fetch it. Hopefully if the weather's good, that'll be this weekend.
      So, what is it?
      As the title suggests, it's a 1951 Pontiac Chieftain.
      It's got a flat-head straight eight hiding in the engine bay, 4.4 litres of it. It's bolted to a 4-speed Hydra-Matic Drive gearbox. No torque converter on this one, just a fluid coupling. 116 horses at a screaming 3700 RPM, 240lb/ft at 2000. It idles at 375 RPM. Redline just shy of 4k.
      Did I mention it's quite big? Sixteen foot eight from end to end and it seats six people in comfort. Every door has a quarter-light, too. Comfort is provided by properly sized tyres and (quite surprisingly for the age of it) double independent wishbone front suspension. Steering is via worm/wheel steering box so is moderately direct and the brakes are hydraulic drums all round. Modern and scientific!
      It's an honest example; looks to have had a "restoration" about 15-20 years back and the rust is coming through the seams and filler. The bottoms of the door skins have gone, the bottom of the A-pillars have gone (the front doors, on a single hinge a piece still open and close with one finger!) And it's got a couple holes and blebs in all the places you would expect.
      Not much electrical works. It needs to be completely rewired because someone has "converted" it to 12V. Thankfully it was originally negative ground so that's a good start. Gauges and such can be driven from a 6V bucking converter.
      Engine has had some work done on it- starts and runs nicely with very little greb coming out of the exhaust. It's got a few gaskets that need replacing and the tappets need some major adjustment, the gearbox engages gears correctly, the steering is okay but has a lot of slack in the center and the brakes work well, dont sink or feel spongy but need adjustment.
      More to come. I'll post up more pictures when I get it home.
  • Create New...