AS Communal MK4&5 Mondeo Thread

[Dave_Q]

Big up Mondeo Massive. A friend of the family has a 61 plate Galaxy 2.0 pez which one assumes is the same underneath as a mk3/4 Mondeo?

Their clutch is slipping. How much of an arseache is a clutch on one of these? I watched that mentalist who does clutches on drives do one, the video is an hour and a half long and it looks like there's a massive subframe in the way, that one was a diesel though. 

Any advice? I can't see this costing them any less than a grand, which they also can't really afford, but £1000 + the weigh in value of the car doesn't get them into anything better either. 

If it does go to frag, is there anything that's worth keeping off it that still allows them to collect the £389 from removemycar?

[Cookiesouwest]

1 hour ago, Dave_Q said:

Big up Mondeo Massive. A friend of the family has a 61 plate Galaxy 2.0 pez which one assumes is the same underneath as a mk3/4 Mondeo?

Their clutch is slipping. How much of an arseache is a clutch on one of these? I watched that mentalist who does clutches on drives one, the video is an hour and a half long and it looks like there's a massive subframe in the way, that one was a diesel though. 

Any advice? I can't see this costing them any less than a grand, which they also can't really afford, but £1000 + the weigh in value of the car doesn't get them into anything better either. 

If it does go to frag, is there anything that's worth keeping off it that still allows them to collect the £389 from removemycar?

You are right. Most places will charge approaching a grand for the job.

If its in good nick and they like it, probably worth fixing.

They could strip bits off it, but its a Ball ache and most bits will be hanging around for months / years. Not worth the effort.

[sierraman]

2 hours ago, Dave_Q said:

Big up Mondeo Massive. A friend of the family has a 61 plate Galaxy 2.0 pez which one assumes is the same underneath as a mk3/4 Mondeo?

Their clutch is slipping. How much of an arseache is a clutch on one of these? I watched that mentalist who does clutches on drives do one, the video is an hour and a half long and it looks like there's a massive subframe in the way, that one was a diesel though. 

Any advice? I can't see this costing them any less than a grand, which they also can't really afford, but £1000 + the weigh in value of the car doesn't get them into anything better either. 

If it does go to frag, is there anything that's worth keeping off it that still allows them to collect the £389 from removemycar?

Clutch is a massive PITA on a driveway, it’s a ramp job, nothing particularly complicated just labour intensive and difficult laid on your back in the cold. 

[sierraman]

34 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

You are right. Most places will charge approaching a grand for the job.

If its in good nick and they like it, probably worth fixing.

They could strip bits off it, but its a Ball ache and most bits will be hanging around for months / years. Not worth the effort.

Na, £5-600 on that, the DMF will probably be fine. It’s £7-800 on a diesel with a decent LuK DMF, CSC and plate. 

[Dave_Q]

Thanks guys, apparently they've managed to get it booked in somewhere now so it will live on. 

I was never going to volunteer, I still have traumatic memories of the last time I volunteered to do a clutch for someone on a Vectra B which included a golf ball sized lump on my forehead where the subframe hit me, and the final insult of the thing being weighed in anyway a few weeks later because it was pissing fluid out the concentric slave. 

[sierraman]

31 minutes ago, Dave_Q said:

Thanks guys, apparently they've managed to get it booked in somewhere now so it will live on. 

I was never going to volunteer, I still have traumatic memories of the last time I volunteered to do a clutch for someone on a Vectra B which included a golf ball sized lump on my forehead where the subframe hit me, and the final insult of the thing being weighed in anyway a few weeks later because it was pissing fluid out the concentric slave. 

I wouldn’t attempt it on a driveway, it’s unpleasant enough on a ramp. I ended up a while back just after COVID having a clutch and DMF put in a diesel one, the garage were that incompetent I had to help muck in to put it all back together so I can tell you first hand I would not be attempting this on the driveway. 
 

That guy that does driveway clutches, hats off to him, that sounds like some sort of mechanics punishment for having done something wrong in a previous life. Imagine that in the fucking driving hail knocking driveshafts out all day and lifting gearboxes back in, your trousers piss wet through while gearbox oil trickles gently up your sleeve into the loins of your armpit. 

[junkyarddog]

Old girl has done me proud again.

Another 12 months ticket.

Chuffed.

[junkyarddog]

Oil and filters time again!

Hopefully it won't need anything else over the Winter months. 

[junkyarddog]

Rear caliper started sticking on again after I freed it off.

Nothing for it but to replace it with a genuine scrap yard sourced part for the princely sum of €20.00.

Wouldn't have much hope of shifting that bleed nipple!!

Of course the hard line union was seized and snapped off. 🙄

Repair spliced in.

Job jobbed,I would have replaced the other side too,but it was gone, so this will suffice for now.

[Bren]

Another mk IV with rear brake issues. I stripped and cleaned ours a few months ago - I noticed the pads did not have long before leaving the chat. I decided to replace them as we are away next week.

The n/s wheel would still rotate easily with the handbrake applied. The levers were a mess. I stripped them as much as I could and used needle files wire brush and plus gas to get them moving again.

I bought pagid pads that were not cheap and did not come with the clips that fit to the carrier. Disappoint.

Hardbrake worked on the o/s but the piston was very reluctant  to move - I had used a draper tool designed for the MK3 granada on the n/s but it is a tight fit - this was useless on the o/s.

I broke out my rewind kit - it has the tool for Left and Right. Unfortunately the tommy bar is useless on a stiff caliper and mullers your hands. I put box spanners inside each other and used them as an extension - a bit more leverage was what was needed. Undoing the bleed nipple was not going to happen as it resembled a rotten tooth.

Even though the mk IV has been out of production nearly ten years I am still surprised how grim these things get underneath - the protection looks to have been minimal.

 

[sierraman]

Farting about with old semi seized calipers rarely works in the long run. New ones usually are the answer. 

[Bren]

21 minutes ago, sierraman said:

Farting about with old semi seized calipers rarely works in the long run. New ones usually are the answer. 

I agree. They will get replaced at some point.

[warren t claim]

https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-features-sheds/ford-mondeo-25-t-titanium-x-shed-of-the-week/48565

A Mk4 has finally appeared in Pistonheads Shed Of The Week. A 2.5 Turbo Titanium X no less.

 

[Bren]

Ours needed a clean due to our camping trip as large bits of North Wales were stuck to the carpets. It needs new rubber on the rear and a service.

 

[sierraman]

Nice seats! Mine needs some tyres on front but thats expensed. Think MOT time it’ll need a NSR bush, plus the vanes have started sticking again. This time it’ll be an exhaust off job to free them properly though. 

[Bren]

An expensive month.

Had rear trailing arm bushes done and I fitted new rear pads.

The battery then died. To be fair it had given us fair warning - slow cranking sometimes however last night wife unit got in and car was dead.

My meter showed 10.5 volts. Rest in Peace. 

I jump started it off a slave battery and did the usual checks with everything turned on - healthy 14+ volts so the charging system is ok.

Due to paranoia I checked that all the interior lights went off etc including the glovebox - all ok.

My factor sourced a Yuasa 760 CCA for £125 with three year guarantee. Out of curiosity I rang Ford as they are competitive with some things.

But not batteries. Just over £200 and they wouldn't be able to get it until tomorrow. My car needs a 700 CCA item - they also listed a 590 CCA item which is a tad puny for a diesel motor.

I put the new battery on charge for a few hours and cracked on - I always do this as you have no idea how long it has been sitting.

Original item. 12 years old. You did good.

There is a bit of faff as the cables aren't that long. You can get away with removing the top of the airbox to get the battery out. Some of the smaller wires are very thin gauge and it wouldn't take much to break them.

Another pair of hands is helpful to.lift the cables up to slide the battery in. You have to connect the - before sliding the battery in. I taped up the - and put a cap on the + until they were connected to prevent pyrotechnics.

Using advice from RoverFolkUs I " coded" the battery using the rear fog light switch and hazard switch as there is a sensor on the - terminal. The battery light flashes a few times then goes off. Just the stereo to be reset with the code which is with the handbooks.

A bit of a PITA just to change a battery.

And it still needs a service and rear tyres......

 

[warren t claim]

 

[Bren]

Changed the oil on ours today.

Would have done it sooner if Carousel Car parts hadn't messed me around.

New rear tyres  next week. I noticed that the rear back plates have rusted through. I go on a couple of mondeo forums - sadly they are starting to succumb to rot - the u derside is not as well protected as you would hope.

[sierraman]

Gave mine a shitload of Waxoyl last year. Hopefully should mean it lasts a bit longer! 

[warren t claim]

Sad to say that seeing a Mk4 still working as a taxi in my area has now become a rare sight.

[Bren]

3 hours ago, warren t claim said:

Sad to say that seeing a Mk4 still working as a taxi in my area has now become a rare sight.

They are now at the point of being uneconomical to fix.

[sierraman]

1 hour ago, Bren said:

They are now at the point of being uneconomical to fix.

Still some very optimistic souls trying to get £4k plus for really mint ones. That said they’re a strong car so even if it wants a clutch and DMF it’s probably worth the several hundred quid as finding a good one isn’t easy now. 

[Mally]

So, I'm a 75 Tourer fan. My current steed has problems and MOT looms. I'll probably just buy another with a long MOT and park the spares car in the garden.

Can you convince me that I should upgrade* to a Mondeo ( I have owned a couple) , and which model is preferable, auto maybe? My leg could use the rest.

Around 2k available, but insurance and running costs need to be as low as possible.

Thanks for any input.

[Bren]

The powershift box is too much of a risk. Titanium is the one to go for. Check both subframes as they get grotty enough to fail the MOT.

[junkyarddog]

Late models Powershift gearboxes were better than the earlier version,but I'd still be wary of them.

Best find another 75 and enjoy having a spares car.

[sierraman]

3 hours ago, Mally said:

So, I'm a 75 Tourer fan. My current steed has problems and MOT looms. I'll probably just buy another with a long MOT and park the spares car in the garden.

Can you convince me that I should upgrade* to a Mondeo ( I have owned a couple) , and which model is preferable, auto maybe? My leg could use the rest.

Around 2k available, but insurance and running costs need to be as low as possible.

Thanks for any input.

Some of the pre 2010 ones are conventional automatics. £2k should get a half decent 2.0 TDCI. Make sure the clutch is good, it boosts ok and it idles smoothly. I’ve never seen one fail a test on subframe corrosion. Any spec should be ok, they’ve all got electric windows etc, steer clear of optimistic enthusiast owned garbage though at mad money. 

[Mally]

3 minutes ago, sierraman said:

steer clear of optimistic enthusiast owned garbage though at mad money. 

Rover 75 enthusiasts are probably worse. 

[sierraman]

28 minutes ago, Mally said:

Rover 75 enthusiasts are probably worse. 

Trouble with ‘enthusiast owners’ is they think it’s worth the GDP of China and they spend a lot of time meddling. I’ve no doubt it’s the same for any brand but Ford attracts some of the worst of the worst, it almost makes me keep liking them to myself as you immediately get grouped into one of these pillocks in the Ford Performance jacket, Ford Performance hat, the badges and all the bullshit about their uncles Mondeo Cosworth that Dunton built specially for him what with him working in a scotch egg factory in Mansfield. 

[Cookiesouwest]

10 hours ago, Mally said:

So, I'm a 75 Tourer fan. My current steed has problems and MOT looms. I'll probably just buy another with a long MOT and park the spares car in the garden.

Can you convince me that I should upgrade* to a Mondeo ( I have owned a couple) , and which model is preferable, auto maybe? My leg could use the rest.

Around 2k available, but insurance and running costs need to be as low as possible.

Thanks for any input.

Powershift don't have the best of reps, but mine has been fine. Issues largely down to Ford forgetting to tell customers and dealers that it needs a service every 3 yrs / 30k ish miles.

As sierraman points out the prefacelift should have had a traditional slush box, but late (2009) pre facelift seem to mostly have powershift.

If the car is sub 2k, I wouldn't worry about the powershift. Its almost throw away money at sub 2k.

The estates are huge. Much more cavernous than the 75. 

Titanium X spec if you must have all the toys, but the zetec is reasonably well equipped and not as popular as the titanium, so cheaper.

The mk4 drives better, better built, better equipment for comparable spec levels. I've had both. The 75 still feels a bit special, but the mk4 is hands down a much more accomplished car. Its a generation further on.

[Mally]

 

1 hour ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Powershift don't have the best of reps, but mine has been fine. Issues largely down to Ford forgetting to tell customers and dealers that it needs a service every 3 yrs / 30k ish miles.

As sierraman points out the prefacelift should have had a traditional slush box, but late (2009) pre facelift seem to mostly have powershift.

If the car is sub 2k, I wouldn't worry about the powershift. Its almost throw away money at sub 2k.

The estates are huge. Much more cavernous than the 75. 

Titanium X spec if you must have all the toys, but the zetec is reasonably well equipped and not as popular as the titanium, so cheaper.

The mk4 drives better, better built, better equipment for comparable spec levels. I've had both. The 75 still feels a bit special, but the mk4 is hands down a much more accomplished car. Its a generation further on.

Thanks for that. The less buttons the better for me. What's the fuel consumption like on an auto?

I've driven a new one years ago, but my late wife paid for the fuel.

If I can get the ABS light out and there's not much else needed for MOT I'll stick with my 75.

It needs an exhaust but I've had a Polish one under my bed for 18 months. That's exhaust obviously.