DEAD IGNITION

[AlabamaShrimp]

Sorry to start a random new topic but I'm stuck in a car park with no ignition in the Mk2 Fiesta.

 

Getting no lights at all but the clock is powered up. How can I start it?

 

Has done it before and eventually turns on but I've no idea how.

 

Can it be jump started?

[Parky]

Bump start?

 

No lights at all? Nothing on the dash?

 

If the clock is working there is obv a little power there so is it something up with the switch requiring some 90's style hot wiring?

[dollywobbler]

Do you have headlamps? If you do, something is stopping the ignition system from activating, so jump/bump won't help. If you don't, then the battery is probably flat and jump/bump stands a chance.

[AlabamaShrimp]

No lights at all.

[Supernaut]

So the clock is powered, but the ignition isn't working.

 

Duff ignition switch?

[dollywobbler]

Yup. Flat battery or, if it does this occasionally, a duff earth. Check the battery terminals. If you've got tools, perhaps even remove them and ensure they're clean.

[Junkman]

You'll have these symptoms when the multi connector underneath the dash on the steering column has come apart a bit,

which would also explain why the issue is/was random. See whether it works after you firmly pushed it back together.

[AlabamaShrimp]

The earth is rusty but I think in contact and I've just spent the last 25 minutes trying to get the plastic off from the steering column but of course one screw won't come out.

 

It might be the ignition switch as junk man says due to it having a mini melt down there a few years ago and a yellow wire taken out (the one that runs the radio on the first click of the key)

 

 

Battery has been charged today as I've been to the same place 5 miles away 3 times

[mercrocker]

Check battery terminals for the wiring close to them - possibly you may have some damaged wiring that was disturbed recently to the point of almost non-existent contact.....

[AlabamaShrimp]

Fucking cunt has started

[AlabamaShrimp]

I gave up on the steering column and double checked all the battery. Made them mega tight.

 

Car started as the recovery guy got there

[MikeR]

put a lighter in the ash tray .... for next time !

[DodgeRover]

Now you are mobile when you get home take the connections off the battery clean them and make sure they are gripping the battery posts firmly - you might need to widen the slot with a hacksaw to enable them to close up more they need to be tight but not omg I'm going to snap the terminal off tight..

[AlabamaShrimp]

Thanks everyone.

 

I honestly don't understand how mega tight is better than just tight but at least the car started.

 

Cost me £20 for the recovery bloke. I'm insured with one call, I thought it was free...

[AlabamaShrimp]

I'll be taking it all apart tomorrow giving it a scrub and covering it in copper slip.

 

Lol can't make them go together tighter as someone says above

 

 

Yeah I know they don't make these anymore!

 

This is the earth, sort of grease and rust. Looks worse in real life. I'll have to move it but it's a bit short.

 

[Parky]

Easy fix though!

[nigel bickle]

Just clean the connections. The dirt is holding them apart. They don't need to be tighter. Just a better contact

[sierraman]

Clock will work as it works off a constant livr and draws fuck all current. Shouldn't need to be megabastard tight, a clean connection is more important.

[lisbon_road]

Won't hurt to clean the battery with detergent too.  Some say it stops leakage, not convinced at 12 volts but they sure look nice.

[AlabamaShrimp]

I'll give it a go over tomorrow between jobs.

 

A couple of washers as well if I can find some too.

[fordperv]

If its peeing you off I'll take it off your hands

[mk2_craig]

1. That earth doesn't look original, possibly moved from the inner wing if there's been a repair there previously?

 

2. Your ign switch sounds iffy

 

3. I had same symptoms a few days back, see my Pile of ShiTe XR2 thread for reference (ign relay)

 

4. For good measure check the big batt to starter motor cable is intact, its terminals are clean and the NUTS R TIGHT

[AlabamaShrimp]

1. It is the original but I moved it to there as it has rotted through where it was attached on the inner wing. I didn't reattach it to the new metal I stuck on.

 

2. As I said above a few years ago a wire randomly melted while driving so I had an auto electrician take it out. If I can get the screw out I'll have a look at the back of the ignition switch.

 

3. Not read that yet. Tbh I'm crap at keeping up with threads.

 

4. Already checked that and it's fine. I didn't do the nuts though.

 

Rust is getting annoying in places so OK fordperv you can have it. Just send us a blank cheque and I'll fill in the amount.

[Talbot]

That battery earth looks pathetically small.  It should be at least the diameter of the cable to the starter motor, if not larger.  Any resistance in ground cables will result in big issues starting.

 

That's not the issue you had here, clearly, as a small earth won't stop the ignition or (weak) cranking, but if you're going to the trouble of having the cables off the battery, put a decent size earth cable on it.

[PhilA]

Also, small dirt on the terminals will be random and may turn into very high resistance corrosion upon application of high current (starter motor, headlights)

 

Enough that things that draw hardly anything will work but all other symptoms point to a bad battery.

 

See also connector that Herr JM refers to, same issues, smaller connector, less current required to heat up terminals enough to form rapid surface corrosion.

 

Phil

[AlabamaShrimp]

To summarize.

 

You changed the battery without cleaning the connections.

 

Ben

No. I literally attached Tommy Walsh's finest pound shop spanner to the nuts on the battery and tightened the shit out of them and the car then had power and started.

[Junkman]

There should be toothed washers added everywhere.

[vaughant]

DO NOT copper grease where the connections are until AFTER you've reconnected everything, seen many people make this mistake in the past and ice even done it myself on my old Vanette. A quick test with a multimeter revealed a high resistance despite it being a new cable, copper grease cleaned off, zero resistance, started perfectly.

 

If you don't already have one purchasing a multimeter would be a great idea as you can then easily test the rest of the circuit.

[Parky]

I always thought Vaseline was the thing for battery connections? Still the case or is there an acknowledged superior alternative these days?

[Junkman]

If you don't already have one purchasing a multimeter would be a great idea as you can then easily test the rest of the circuit.

 

I would have suggested similar until I saw Sir Squire's steam powered one:

 

 

 

From now on it's either one of these, or no electrickery at all.