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Posted

Cleared the codes on the E46 and these 3 lights came back on:

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Code reader says:

- 5e19 CAN data fault from DME/DDE (DSC lamp is on for as long as error is present)

- O2 sensor bank 2

- Cat

-D3 idle speed control valve mechanical fault.

The wheel speed sensor code is gone so that must have been an old one from when they really were faulty last year.

I'll ignore the o2 sensor for now as that's expensive and I think there's a primary fault causing them to error.

The CAN error - I'll check the wiring near the TB, DISA and ICV.

I'm also going to have a go at making a smoke tester with a cheap soldering iron from Amazon. I already have all the other paraphernalia.  I think there's a tiny vac leaks somewhere. The systems on these cars are over complicated and obviously ger brittle with age.

I think I might SORN this and work through the issues and get the 75 back on the road as it just needs 2 suspension arms, handbrake and the airbag light putting out. I'm convinced the E46 has a free fix waiting for me, I just need to investigate it properly and avoid spending unnecessarily.

The 75 is otherwise reliable and it's the only other car on fleet that my wife is confident driving. This is a pain having off the road as I can't currently  get the Audi off her for long enough to sort the window regulator.

  • Like 3
Posted
24 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

5e19 CAN data fault from DME/DDE (DSC lamp is on for as long as error is present)

DSC (Traction control) uses the DME (engine computer/ECU) data to determine how much power is being put through the wheels. If the engine computer is in a fault state so that it isn't able to send engine load information to other stuff on the CAN bus, the DSC goes 🤷‍♂️ I can't see any engine info and throws the light up. 

I'd find it's highly unlikely a wiring fault causing this going by the other codes. I imagine the Speedo is driven by data over the CAN bus (might not be on this age but anything even relatively modern does) and if that works, then the CAN bus signals are fine. Just DSC system is not getting ECU data. 

24 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

D3 idle speed control valve mechanical fault

Clean the idle control valve and make sure it rattles (sorry intake off again)

This possibly be causing limp. Without the ICV you'll probably get a shit idle. 

24 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

- O2 sensor bank 2

- Cat

Cat code on the same bank as the O2?

Is it the O2 upstream (before cat) or downstream (after cat)? If upstream then the engine won't be able to go into closed loop mode (i.e. monitoring exhaust gases and tweaking injection/ignition) and likely what is causing limp mode. Iirc BMWs use the downstream sensor more than for just detecting cat condition and possibly could also be causing limp. 

What is the O2 code? Heater code or other?

Posted

"...and work through the issues and get the 75 back on the road as it just needs..." - God loves an optimist !  🤣

Posted
26 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

D3 idle speed control valve mechanical fault

Loads of videos on the ICV in this era BMWs but this is one of the shortest. Others show removal. From memory you were almost there with the throttle body and just one more fastener and connector.

 

 

Posted
11 minutes ago, SiC said:

DSC (Traction control) uses the DME (engine computer/ECU) data to determine how much power is being put through the wheels. If the engine computer is in a fault state so that it isn't able to send engine load information to other stuff on the CAN bus, the DSC goes 🤷‍♂️ I can't see any engine info and throws the light up. 

I'd find it's highly unlikely a wiring fault causing this going by the other codes. I imagine the Speedo is driven by data over the CAN bus (might not be on this age but anything even relatively modern does) and if that works, then the CAN bus signals are fine. Just DSC system is not getting ECU data. 

Clean the idle control valve and make sure it rattles (sorry intake off again)

This possibly be causing limp. Without the ICV you'll probably get a shit idle. 

Cat code on the same bank as the O2?

Is it the O2 upstream (before cat) or downstream (after cat)? If upstream then the engine won't be able to go into closed loop mode (i.e. monitoring exhaust gases and tweaking injection/ignition) and likely what is causing limp mode. Iirc BMWs use the downstream sensor more than for just detecting cat condition and possibly could also be causing limp. 

What is the O2 code? Heater code or other?

Thanks Si 😀 great knowledge.

Here's the exact codes:

 

20250208_160146.jpg

I shouldn't need to take the inlet pipe off again to remove the ICV, just the small top pipe. No big deal of so, the jubilee clip is much more accessible with the DISA removed.

Will give it a good clean out.

Posted
10 minutes ago, SiC said:

Loads of videos on the ICV in this era BMWs but this is one of the shortest. Others show removal. From memory you were almost there with the throttle body and just one more fastener and connector.

 

 

Nah mine definitely didn't make that noise! Definitely needs a clean!

Posted
1 minute ago, Split_Pin said:

Thanks Si 😀 great knowledge.

Here's the exact codes:

 

20250208_160146.jpg

Heater could be dead in the O2 or just cleaning up/reconnecting the O2 sensor might help. Depends if it's open circuit causing the error or the ECU isn't seeing sensor data quick enough after turning the heater on. Warmer weather may help here. 

Cat efficiency could well be the cat on the way out. I'd be inclined to put a bottle of Cataclean in as easy and cheap - I know many people swear by it to get cars through an MOT (including my local MOT place). Might help prolong it a bit more. Especially once we get warmer weather and the engine/cat warm up quicker anyway.  

Posted
9 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

Nah mine definitely didn't make that noise! Definitely needs a clean!

Google says other E46 users get limp mode if the ICV isn't working properly. Maybe root cause of the majority of limp mode issues you're having. Makes sense as it'll lead to the ECU being unable to fully control intake airflow as it'll effectively have a big air leak if it's stuck open. 

The diagram below shows how the green tube would be constantly letting air through if the Idle Control was sticking open or if the ECU isn't able to control it. 

Screenshot_20250211-221539.thumb.png.c8531e23941007cd2d9d48c4d88e9e07.png

Maaaaaaybe the excess airflow could also could cause lean fuel issues and cat code on this old a car/dumber ECU.

  • Like 2
Posted

Went test drive an electric car yesterday. 

image.jpeg.27b54829ab59b469c3a05cf4f27c1286.jpeg

Interesting on the outside and a real fun way of giving the car a front grille, by turning it into an aerodynamic feature, basically a front wing.

Inside is where it fell apart because there's all big screens seemingly wedged into the dash, far too many animated things going on as you drive, too many lights and whizbangs and doodabs doing things. 

Felt like driving a really fast iPhone. 670 hp. It's also the same weight as my pick-up truck. They have it so it makes the sound of a straight piped v8 through a big loudspeaker when you switch it on. Why?

Posted
36 minutes ago, PhilA said:

Went test drive an electric car yesterday. 

image.jpeg.27b54829ab59b469c3a05cf4f27c1286.jpeg

Interesting on the outside and a real fun way of giving the car a front grille, by turning it into an aerodynamic feature, basically a front wing.

Inside is where it fell apart because there's all big screens seemingly wedged into the dash, far too many animated things going on as you drive, too many lights and whizbangs and doodabs doing things. 

Felt like driving a really fast iPhone. 670 hp. It's also the same weight as my pick-up truck. They have it so it makes the sound of a straight piped v8 through a big loudspeaker when you switch it on. Why?

Not for me. If I had to have an EV it might as well be a Leaf, does what it says.

Posted

No news from the insurance yet re the Ampera.  I suspect this may be the "accident management company" not relaying the information to them - when the chap at the repair garage volunteered the information that "they're not an easy company to work with" it doesn't inspire the greatest of confidence...

If I don't hear anything on Monday I'm going to have to start making phone calls.

Posted

Balls

PXL_20250215_133213810.thumb.jpg.2251a7958586a4d04fe0e2345fb477f3.jpg

I think I have some 0.8mm wire. Will be the first time really ever I'll use 0.8 over 0.6.

New reel of 0.6mm wire coming from Amazon tomorrow! Apparently the current roll I bought in Oct 2022. Keeping with the same GYS branded wire. Not cheap at £43 compared to the others but has been working fine for me so don't want to change my receipe too much.

Posted

While I'm busy welding my Midget up, I came in to this. 

My wife has just finished making it for one of her friends children. I wish I had a bit more talent myself!

PXL_20250215_135720796.jpg

Posted
2 hours ago, SiC said:

Balls

PXL_20250215_133213810.thumb.jpg.2251a7958586a4d04fe0e2345fb477f3.jpg

I think I have some 0.8mm wire. Will be the first time really ever I'll use 0.8 over 0.6.

New reel of 0.6mm wire coming from Amazon tomorrow! Apparently the current roll I bought in Oct 2022. Keeping with the same GYS branded wire. Not cheap at £43 compared to the others but has been working fine for me so don't want to change my receipe too much.

I've never welded with 0.6, even on thin sheet. I guess it's a little easier?

Posted
2 hours ago, SiC said:

While I'm busy welding my Midget up, I came in to this. 

My wife has just finished making it for one of her friends children. I wish I had a bit more talent myself!

PXL_20250215_135720796.jpg

Queue loads of children with black tongues at 5pm!

Posted

That's the purple misery machine dropped off to make space for something purpler and joyfuller.

It's been upgraded while with me - it now has working air con,  bluetooth, DAB, usable power sockets, a glovebox lid that doesn't fall off and a more elegant* solution for the broken bonnet pull. All of which made the cityrover experience slightly less miserable. 

Thanks for the loanership @chodweaver

PXL_20250215_124116674~3.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted
10 minutes ago, Keymaster said:

That's the purple misery machine dropped off to make space for something purpler and joyfuller.

It's been upgraded while with me - it now has working air con,  bluetooth, DAB, usable power sockets, a glovebox lid that doesn't fall off and a more elegant* solution for the broken bonnet pull. All of which made the cityrover experience slightly less miserable. 

Thanks for the loan @chodweaver

PXL_20250215_124116674~3.jpg

“Autoshite repair, autoshite replace”

Posted

I changed the drivers side window regulator on the A4 today.

The old one was mega scrunkled up and the cable snapped:

20250215_171045.thumb.jpg.12ad936430cb98e8205c7a540aea2607.jpg

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This is the first and last time I'll speak of this. Cunt of a job.

All working nicely now and it lined up first go. It even drops again when the door is opened and closed.

Posted

I had my landlady and her hubby here most of yesterday fitting two new storage heaters to replace a couple of the ancient beige box-of-bricks heaters that have been in the house for 20-odd years.  The new heaters are Dimplex Quantum and they're very clever, with proper thermostatic controls and a timer that can be set to different timings and temperatures for every day of the week.  They're fan boosted and are supposed to be 27% more efficient than the old type of heater.  There are three heater elements - the third is wired into the peak rate circuit in case the storage bit runs out of heat in the evening and the temperature needs a boost. 

They're even controllable via an app but that requires a Dimplex hub which I don't have.  It took me a while to figure out how to programme them but so far I'm impressed, the house definitely feels warmer (even though it's snowing outside).  Will have to wait to see what effect they have on the electric bill...

  • Like 8
Posted
7 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

I had my landlady and her hubby here most of yesterday fitting two new storage heaters to replace a couple of the ancient beige box-of-bricks heaters that have been in the house for 20-odd years.  The new heaters are Dimplex Quantum and they're very clever, with proper thermostatic controls and a timer that can be set to different timings and temperatures for every day of the week.  They're fan boosted and are supposed to be 27% more efficient than the old type of heater.  There are three heater elements - the third is wired into the peak rate circuit in case the storage bit runs out of heat in the evening and the temperature needs a boost. 

They're even controllable via an app but that requires a Dimplex hub which I don't have.  It took me a while to figure out how to programme them but so far I'm impressed, the house definitely feels warmer (even though it's snowing outside).  Will have to wait to see what effect they have on the electric bill...

I remember the brick filled storage heaters from home in the 1970s!  The bricks now form the foundations of the shed. We used to have ice on the inside of the windows then like in Dr Zhivago.

Posted
2 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

Dimplex Quantum 

Dimplex hub 

Will have to wait to see what effect they have on the electric bill...

I've been gradually upgrading ours to quantum last couple of years, did the last couple in December.  The difference is night and day. No more being boiling in the morning, cold in the evening and dealing with window condensation. 

We have the hub & app, it is useful at times. 

Lots of variables but if my experience is anything to go by you will either have cheaper bills or you'll be much more comfortable for the same cost as before.  

  • Like 2
Posted
4 hours ago, PhilA said:

I've never welded with 0.6, even on thin sheet. I guess it's a little easier?

Well so far I can say yes 0.6 is a fair bit easier on thin stuff without blowing holes through. Especially on rusty pitted dirty metal. 

Posted

From old brutish cars on FB. Shotton 1972

image.thumb.png.5e16414da511bb51f648aaa46afa1559.png

  • Like 4
Posted

Dad’s neighbour has a prime example of low mileage shite to dispose of asking if I wanted it.

IMG_5726.thumb.jpeg.29ad5bee1466d179eb5c2252bb3a1f41.jpeg

I have no idea what it’s worth. All I know is it’s a one owner, 1.4 auto, 78k miles and MoT until June, as I’m best part of 100 miles away and have a kitchen in bits can’t run up there myself today to look at it. Neighbour’s dad passed away and car needs gone.

I am not interested because:

1. Automatic
2. Volkswagen
3. Automatic
4. I don’t fit behind the wheel in these.

But if anyone on here is interested I’ll do an official for sell thread.

Posted

I hate cars, I hate cars, I hate cars, I hate cars , I fucking HATE cars

 

20250216_123359.jpg

Posted
2 hours ago, dozeydustman said:

Dad’s neighbour has a prime example of low mileage shite to dispose of asking if I wanted it.

IMG_5726.thumb.jpeg.29ad5bee1466d179eb5c2252bb3a1f41.jpeg

I have no idea what it’s worth. All I know is it’s a one owner, 1.4 auto, 78k miles and MoT until June, as I’m best part of 100 miles away and have a kitchen in bits can’t run up there myself today to look at it. Neighbour’s dad passed away and car needs gone.

I am not interested because:

1. Automatic
2. Volkswagen
3. Automatic
4. I don’t fit behind the wheel in these.

But if anyone on here is interested I’ll do an official for sell thread.

That should be £1750 all day, small auto’s are in demand and despite its age it’ll sell well.

Posted

Horrid Henry's dad drives a red mk3 Mondeo with off coloured bumpers and parks like an absolute roaster. Just an FYI

IMG_20250216_141158.thumb.jpg.349c4d497f3d1112dd51858380a26e60.jpg

Posted
4 hours ago, wesacosa said:

I hate cars, I hate cars, I hate cars, I hate cars , I fucking HATE cars

 

20250216_123359.jpg

bloody annoying they use a torx bit rather than a screw as my trusty hammer operated impact screwdriver has never failed on a brake disc so far. I tried an impact gun but it chewed it in about 1 second . Looking at the new ones in the pad kit I have they are thread locked in too

20250216_131130.thumb.jpg.2672fd96b84b31d46fc4c792107e5a7a.jpg

no option but to drill it out which thankfully didn't take too long. I couldn't get the threaded portion out but seen as the new discs dont match the hole position it didn't matter 

Disc was badly warped and one of the pins sticking so that was at least partially contributing to the vibration under braking but I still have some low frequency oscillation for the last few mph when coming to a stop, so could be control arm bushes or maybe reluctor rings which caused something similar on my old 9-5

 

  • Like 1

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