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1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter - After nearly 7yrs, The End (for me)


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Posted

Most MGB tanks rot on the top as the underseal was sprayed on after they were built so any moisture ended up rotting the tops. Welding, even I'm not that stupid to try it on a petrol tank.

Posted

I was wondering if it might have been its original tank? I really wish I had the history of the car.

  • Like 1
Posted

Sometimes welding petrol tanks is not an option. It's a necessity. But I'd forgotten how well MGB owners are provided for! Just protect it well by slapping a few coats of whatever on it and waxoyling both sides. Will be worth doing the straps too. Keep the old tank!

Posted

Totally fill them with water first to drive the fumes out and it's a little less dangerous.

 

I know someone who used to stand in the next room and put the gas axe through the doorway towards the tank.

"They only blow up once"

Or stick them on another cars exhaust and run it for ten minutes. It drives the fumes out. The only time I did it, I filled with water first then did the exhaust trick to dry it out after. Then realised that there are some great petrol proof adhesives so why bother welding?
Posted

Sometimes welding petrol tanks is not an option. It's a necessity. But I'd forgotten how well MGB owners are provided for! Just protect it well by slapping a few coats of whatever on it and waxoyling both sides. Will be worth doing the straps too. Keep the old tank!

I dunno, is it really worth keeping the original tank? Its pretty rusted out all over and a load of holes on top. Plus you can get brand new tanks made by the original tooling still:

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/fuel-tank-mild-steel-nrp2.html?assoc=111162

 

Original right down to the lack of rust proofing too! The aftermarket ones like mine are half the price but treated to stop it rusting. No baffles in them unlike the originals above though. Lack of baffles didn't bother me as I won't be driving it hard enough to need them.

Posted

Pulled the old sender apart as it always used to get stuck on quarter of a tank but occasionally read correctly. Always mystified me how this happened, so I had to take a look.

 

Second picture with the flash is possibly a bit clearer:

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Looks like basically the windings have slightly split apart and the wiper arm would sit in-between the two winding wires. When moving down it would hit resistance at this area and so stick.

 

I don't have a picture of the new one (it's already in the tank) but that design has modern resistive tracks printed onto a PCB which the wiper arm brushes across. Achieves the same aim and less likely to stick like this design will. However I expect this design to instead it will have areas that wear away. So in 40 years time (if the car is still around) the fault scenario will be that the gauge works, then goes to zero when it hits the worn out bit. Once the fuel level sinks a bit further it will kick back into life.

 

Also of interest is the wear area on the resistive wire. It looks fairly uniform across the windings, so I would assume it has in the past been topped up and a full tank used. Rather than just putting a tenner or so in everytime the gauge got low.

  • Like 3
Posted

Hopefully this video makes it clearer what I'm saying, rather than my gargle of words. Images are worth a thousand words, so many images stitched together to make a video must make million of words.

 

[Video]

  • Like 5
Posted

Tonight I did a quick spray on the bottom of the boot floor with 2 coats of primer and one coat of Hammerite Stone Chip shield. On Sunday night I had given it a good coating of krust on the rusty areas too. I'll put another coat of the stone chip stuff on tomorrow. Not too bothered about what it looks like. Just putting it over to protect it from dirt sitting on it and the tank rubbing against it.

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Also recrimped replacement spade terminals on for the sender. Both looked filthy and past it, plus one was smaller than the other but the new sender needs them to be both the same.

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This is a quick poke of the camera through the old fuel tank sender hole. The camera is looking at the top of the tank. Bottom is about the same. Actually not terribly bad to be honest. This is backed up by the fuel filter being pretty clean too.

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If you're in any doubt about the condition of the old tank though, it has quite a few holes in it!

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Posted

Thanks for the updates. You do a quality thread!

 

Enjoying reading about this. My step-mum used to have a british racing green mgbgt, chrome bumper. I used to like sitting in it on the drive. Do these smell a bit petrolly when idling? I suppose most older cars do. Hers was scrapped due to rust underneath although it looked ok bodywise as far as I can remember. I was about 10.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks for the updates. You do a quality thread!

 

Enjoying reading about this. My step-mum used to have a british racing green mgbgt, chrome bumper. I used to like sitting in it on the drive. Do these smell a bit petrolly when idling? I suppose most older cars do. Hers was scrapped due to rust underneath although it looked ok bodywise as far as I can remember. I was about 10.

Thanks. That means a lot. I'm not a great writer and it takes a lot to write up a thread. I do fear that these updates on what I've done come across boring and dull, even though I try my hardest to not let it.

 

This always has had a whiffy old car smell, both inside and even around outside. Not fusty, but very oily and petrol like. Old mechanical is probably the closest I can think of. Just walking up to the car it has a distinct old aroma that you can smell. Like walking around a car museum really. I now suspect a lot of that is down to the fuel vapours leaking out of the top of the tank and perfurming the cabin & surroundings!

 

Despite the trouble it's given me in reliability mechanical wise, the bodywork is in very good condition. A few small rust blebs on top coming through and a bit of surface rust underneath in small patches where the underseal has come off. There is also a fist size hole on the top of the trumpet area (I think that's it's name) under the wing on the drivers side. This is a job I want to tackle later this year, once I've got some welding practice done. MG didn't weld the wings on, so hopefully should be a straightforward job. Otherwise from that there is not anything major and I've been really lucky in buying an example with decent bodywork.

  • Like 2
Posted

I don't think your updates are boring. You've got to remember the audience on here are mostly car nerds and like a bit of detail. I know I do. The problem I have is that when I take things apart I sometimes fix them and sometimes make them worse.

 

I think it's good that you've persevered with this. Sounds like it is a good example and it will be rewarding to complete it. Perfect weeknd car. You are also adding to it's value all the time so look on it as an investment. Don't forget to increase the agreed value too, as you improve it.

 

Don't they also have a fruity exhaust note, where you can hear the exhaust gases?

Posted

My Dolly 1850 had a new petrol tank every 10 years if my old receipts are to be believed, it went through exhausts even faster...

Posted

Your detail, photos and forward thinking, are good.

I just do the job and wait for something else to break, I have little time or inclination for photos usually.

This place has opened my eyes, but old habits and all that.

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Posted

A thread about Triumphs would be better lol. The thread is ace mate :) 

 

That smell is just 'old classic car' smell. People pay good money for that odour you know.

  • Like 1
Posted

That's in really good shape underneath, I'd've been delighted to find that given how crumbly MG Bs tend get.

Posted

MOT expires Monday. Test booked in on this Friday! It better blimming pass. Can't afford not to, spent far too much on cars this month.

 

I've got the day off on Friday too, so if it misbehaves, I don't need to stress about not getting into work on time. I still don't have a lot of confidence in it.

Posted

That hole in the inner wing sounds interesting, any pics ?.

Posted

I'd recommend a really good drive before the MOT. My older cars always perform better at MOT time when they've been driven minimum 20+ miles beforehand

Posted

Shiney tank now fitted. Went on easily enough. Pipe fitting onto the tank didn't tighten up too far before it felt over tightened and went back round again. Hopefully it's done up tight enough. Pulling the pipe moves the tank fixing, so must be securing the fitting decent enough. Also came across the same problem when I changed the pump, that Moss fibre washers are too big. Took it to a bit of sand paper to shrink them and a good push in.

 

Not entirely happy that it looks shiney untreated metal. Feels like I should be putting something on it, despite the instructions saying not too.

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I also need to improve my pipe bending skills! This has quite a few kinks in it when I was trying to get it all line up and fit.

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Not entirely happy with those kinks. Worried that vibration will cause it to split. Might just buy a replacement pipe and try again.

  • Like 1
Posted

A thread about Triumphs would be better lol. The thread is ace mate :)

 

I'm hoping the next thread will be about a little Austin! Just need to get the Civic out of the way and stop spending so much on that damn TT.

 

That hole in the inner wing sounds interesting, any pics ?.

I've got a rough picture from the endoscope.

Nicking this picture from the tinterwebs, I've put a blue splodge where roughly I think it is. Very much a dirt trap.

 

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I'd recommend a really good drive before the MOT. My older cars always perform better at MOT time when they've been driven minimum 20+ miles beforehand

I need to put some fuel in tomorrow - hopefully the 5 litres I've put in so far will be enough to get to the petrol station. So may go for a blast after then too. The garage I use is roughly 6-7 miles away anyway too. So should get a good 15 miles on easily.

 

As this is pre 1975, emissions simply consists of a visual check, not on the meter. So that shouldn't be an issue. Really ought to readjust those back brakes before Friday though.

  • Like 6
Posted

I've had enough of this fucking car now. I've snapped and my patience has run out.

 

Filled up with fuel. This is the first petrol station shot as this is only the third time it's got to one.

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Doesn't feel quite right in the drive of it. Front left doesn't feel 100%. Looking underneath it looks all fine though.

 

Got home, looked under the tank at the new pipe fittings and it's only pissing well leaking now. Not a big leak, but enough to build up a drop around a minute.

1df0b96e3891c3e1e40c41eaeb23e9d3.jpg

 

While looking at that, I had the ignition on to keep the pump active and the fuel lines pressurised. Completely forgot about it and got carried away with time. Then remembered the coil. Naturally its now fucked.

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Got a brand new spare that I can lob on. However in my frustration I can't remember where I've put one of the frigging mounting bolt.

 

I really not sure I can stand too much more of this. Both problems (ignoring the driving feel thing) are not the cars fault but I'm still angry with it. Especially as it's supposed to be going for it's MOT tomorrow. Doesn't look like that will be happening now.

 

I think I need another hobby.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Oh bugger, have a kitkat.......

Posted

I have literally have 0% faith and trust in this car completing a journey without something going wrong.

Guest Hooli
Posted

I'm not surprised really, which is a shame as it seems a decent enough example.

Posted

I have literally have 0% faith and trust in this car completing a journey without something going wrong.

I know the feeling! One of mines playing up, again! The usual culprit with the same old problem!

 

Persevere though. It’ll get there. Eventually!

Posted

I'm not sure I can persevere much more. It's been 9 months, spent a third of its value in parts, countless hours using those parts but barely done 100 miles.

 

Probably is and most likely will be a great for someone else. However I can't stand or stomach driving it anymore. If it was reliable to begin with and I got some use out of it, then I wouldn't mind so much.

 

I'm simply not enjoying using or owning it.

Posted

I'm not sure I can persevere much more. It's been 9 months, spent a third of its value in parts, countless hours using those parts but barely done 100 miles.

Probably is and most likely will be a great for someone else. However I can't stand or stomach driving it anymore. If it was reliable to begin with and I got some use out of it, then I wouldn't mind so much.

I'm simply not enjoying using or owning it.

Similar story here, I’ve been struggling fighting against it for four years now and spent a fortune on it. Yet it still refuses to just run and drive with any reliability. It’s like beating your head against a wall!

 

Still not sure why we bother pissing about with old cars! Just get a normal one!

  • Like 2
Posted

Similar story here, I’ve been struggling fighting against it for four years now and spent a fortune on it. Yet it still refuses to just run and drive with any reliability. It’s like beating your head against a wall!

Still not sure why we bother pissing about with old cars! Just get a normal one!

In fact, while I think about this. If I sold all my money pit classic’s I could have less stress and aggravation, and buy a top spec new Musta...

 

No! Stop these evil thoughts!

  • Like 2
Posted

You need my MX5 and I need this.

 

Your frustration has reminded me that I’d quite like my Daf to be sorted soon. I’ve spent the same as it’s purchase price on bits..

  • Like 2

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