Project 1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter - After nearly 7yrs, The End (for me)

[mrbenn]

One thing I noted is that I got the pedal to the floor by applying hard pressure to the brake pedal and over the space of a minute or so it gradually sank down there. I assume this is normal?!

 

Not normal. Suggests air is still in the system somewhere, or an issue with the master cylinder or possibly servo (if fitted).

[Mally]

Pedal to the floor is normal......just before you crash.

[Guest Hooli]

Here's a good one for you. When I had my Midget it took a double tap of the brakes to get them working fully near the top of the pedal, everytime they were used. The cause turned out to be a bit of play in a rear wheel bearing allowing the drum to move out of line with the shoes.

[SiC]

Not normal. Suggests air is still in the system somewhere, or an issue with the master cylinder or possibly servo (if fitted).

My thought process was that surely even the best rubber seals will surely let a bit of fluid through eventually if continuous hard pressure is left on it for 5 or so minutes?

[Guest Hooli]

My thought process was that surely even the best rubber seals will surely let a bit of fluid through eventually if continuous hard pressure is left on it for 5 or so minutes?

 

Shouldn't do. The way the seals work is that the pressure in the fluid makes them seal better, because of how it pushes them out against the cylinder bore.

[SiC]

Oh dear. Sounds like something else I need to buy - a long with the fuel tank and piping too.

 

Fuel tank job will be farmed out to my friendly local garage, as I don't fancy screwing around with rotted, leaky fuel systems. Especially as those bolts could be a bit of bastard to remove. The annoying thing is that the bottom of the tank looks fine, it's the top or seams that have rotted through.

 

It's payday today and I've virtually spent all this month's disposal income fixing cars again! The Civic is also due a service, 2 tyres and MOT in September too. It'd be nice to be able to get the MGB to a safe usable state at least. Especially like to with the remains of this summer.

 

Arghs.

 

Planning to go to the Beaulieu auto jumble for the first time this year, I'm hoping that there will be a chance to pick some of this stuff up for a good/better price.

[SiC]

I took the pole back off the pedal again tonight and it's pretty hard at the top now. However it still does the thing where if held down hard for a minute or two, you can get it to touch the bottom.

 

So I took a video to give some idea.

 

Really boring video and my hairy leg alert!

 

[Video]

 

In that video at the start, I had been pushing really damn hard for quite a bit to get it to the bottom. Literally pushing as hard as I could. Also bear in mind, I do a lot of cycling and so have reasonably strong legs. Pushing much harder than I think I'd ever be able to when driving.

 

I think I'm still going to change the master cylinder. Looking at around 50quid for a TRW branded one. They have the advantage of having a plastic brake fluid container, making it easy to see fluid level drops - especially compared to the original metal containers. I could rebuild, but tbh the metal containers is original and now pretty rubbish looking. Also I think TRW is a decent, trustworthy brand?

 

I've decided to wait till the auto jumble next weekend at Beaulieu and bulk buy all the bits I need. Never been, but I'll imagine there should be a fair amount of MGB parts there? Hopefully at a very competitive price too.

 

I plan to take it out locally again this weekend too. Nothing fast because brakes and also leaky tank. Once those things are sorted, I'll feel more like taking it out further.

 

I also need to sort the ticking noise that has appeared - seems louder when warmed up. Really not sure what's causing it. Sounds like the distributor and I think it started after I adjusted the timing. Not sure how that could be causing it though?

[Mally]

Ticking when stationary, or only when driving?

Speedo cables tick when dry.

If when stationary, pinking due to timing possibly.

[SiC]

Both. Noticeable more when warm. I might have another go timing it. I don't remember it doing it before I removed the dizzy.

[Sir Snipes]

Pedal sinking to the floor suggests either a leak or borked master cylinder...

[Kiltox]

Buy a classic car they said, it'll be fun they said

[stripped fred]

I wouldn't try and make it perfect, unless you enjoy doing it and can afford the time and cost. Can also be stressful. Better to get it reliable and accept it's foibles.

[Mally]

Nice Toetectors by the way.

[dome]

I had a google around and seems quite a few people suggest jamming the brake pedal down. I wasn't sure how it'd work, but as many do, I thought I'd give it a go.

 

I bled it in the following order - nearside rear, offside rear, nearside front, offside front. Looking online, it appears apart from the brake boost getting air stuck in it, the master cylinder has some sort of slow pressure release valve. Mentioned here: http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/mcvalve.htm

 

I tried jamming the pedal down on the Cougar as I couldn't get a firm pedal and it made it a lot firmer. I've still got air in the system somewhere but it's a lot better.

[captain_70s]

And this is you buying a good one, imagine what the cheaper ones are like...

[SiC]

Lovely isn't it?

 

Well not really. It's conked out and I'm stuck by the side of the road. I suspect fuel pump as it's not clicking.

[twosmoke300]

Don't tap it ! Whack it !

[DeeJay]

Liked for photo, not reason photo was taken.

[richardmorris]

Yes, but it's very elegant stranded at the side of the road isn't it.

 

 

Do you have an electric pump then? Mechanicals won't click obv.

[stripped fred]

Lovely isn't it?

 

Well not really. It's conked out and I'm stuck by the side of the road. I suspect fuel pump as it's not clicking.

What a classy way to break down...

[Mally]

My fuel pump was fitted close to an empty battery box, you could whack it through the hole.

Don't know if ones with 12v battery are all like that.

[SiC]

Trusty Civic to the rescue!

 

My wife had a friend around unfortunately. Fortunately she had towed cars before so could give guidance for my wife!

 

Put it back in the sin bin.

 

To add insult to injury there is this wet bit in the boot. Ripped out the bung to let it drain.

 

To be fair, considering the rain we've had, it's not too much. No real idea where it's coming from.

 

Very thankful it wasn't raining!

[SiC]

Don't tap it ! Whack it !

I whacked the hell out of it with the wheel brace. Even managed to chip part of the front of the pump housing off too.

 

It lost power, stumbled, missing and dieing. I knew it wasn't right at that point and so did a quick swing into the nearest junction. Tried starting and it coughed and spluttered at first. Then just only turned over and no firing. There is no clicking from the pump with the ignition on and the fuel pipes are soft and squidgy. Fuel filter still has fuel in, but I suspect no pressure hasn't helped.

 

A guy, similar age to me, helped push the car a few meters to the side away from the junction. He was telling me that his 50s Land Rover had similar problems. TADIS.

 

Brakes aren't great either. Definitely needs a new master cylinder before I use it any more. It was getting softer and softer the more I was using them getting towed back.

[SiC]

Oh and I checked the fuses. All looked fine, except a bit corroded. Will give them a clean up just in case.

 

Couldn't get the bonnet closed again. Tried hitting it down harder and harder but the left side wouldn't drop. Then the penny dropped ... I left the fuse box lid on the side. Oops.

[Sigmund Fraud]

If this has one of ye olde SU fuel pumps, they're really easy to take apart, clean and re-assemble. The fault will probably be the "points" at the top.

[SiC]

Yeah. I'm in two minds whether to clean-up/replace the points or just replace it with a modern SU solid state one. Apparently the modern ones still click away too.

 

Needs a new fuel tank too... And a brake master... And .... And and and

[vulgalour]

Boot leak will be quarter lights, tailgate seal or a little hole in the inner arch.  TADTS.  Keep an eye on it, mop it out regularly, you should be fine.

 

But hey, at least the problems are all easily replaced mechanical things and since someone was around to tow you home you haven't technically FTP'd because you did reach your destination with your lights on.

[Sigmund Fraud]

Yeah. I'm in two minds whether to clean-up/replace the points or just replace it with a modern SU solid state one. Apparently the modern ones still click away too.

 

Needs a new fuel tank too... And a brake master... And .... And and and

Solid state won't be more reliable, and you can't fix it with a screwdriver and a piece of emery paper !

 

The to-do list is getting longer by the day, but it's all part of the BL ownership experience ! It's great fun*, it really* is !

[vulgalour]

Is it broken?  No, it's an MG.

[Guest Hooli]

Every trip is a memorable experience.