Underseal, what do you all do?

[They_all_do_that_sir]

Giving some thought to giving the XM some more underbody protection. I know when Jonathan owned the car he done bits and peices and as a result it's fairly solid underneath, with just a couple of (solid) MOT patches letting the side down.

 

I'd like to give it a decent coat of something in the next month or so while it's nice and dry and warm, and before I MOT it so it looks as presentable as possible!

 

So where do I start? Good clean then Kurust on anything a wee bit orange and underseal over?

 

Thought I'd start a new post as it's likely to have appeal beyond my own car....

 

 

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[Lankytim]

I wouldn't use the regular bitumen like underseal at all, it just traps water and rots everything. Waxoyl type alternatives are out there and 10000% better

[richardmorris]

Shutz.

[They_all_do_that_sir]

Shutz.

How is this applied, spray or brush on?

 

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[mercrocker]

I distrust anything with Waxoyl written on the tin.....Their brush on stuff went hard and trapped moisture.   I prefer actual chassis paint - at least you can see what is going on.   If you are just after a once-over its OK but as stated above it does harden....  

 

If POR15 or whatever does happen to flake it will only rust there, not five inches away unseen.   High impact areas in wheelarches (you probably have plakky liners, I know!) benefit from a Waxoyl type substance - I have had good results from a brush-on formula of Dynax UB by Bilt-Hamber.     

 

Wire-brush as far as you can back to metal, good zinc primer x 2, good topcoat x 2.   Means getting under more than once but a planned session around the car for each coat should result in less time spent jacking...

[richardmorris]

Yes.

 

Unhelpful answer!

 

 

 

If you have a compressor you can spray it from tins sized as the photo. You can also buy tins with a paint lid top to brush on. My 2cv garage had a compressor I used ( and got filthy) and I've used the paint brush to top up the protection since.

 

 

 

 

I have a hand pump waxoyl thing but the gunk you can spray with it isn't as thick.

[Dick Cheeseburger]

I need to do the same. Bilt Hamber mentioned above and seems to have a very good rep. I've always used waxoil, but only because it's easy to get hold of last minute.

Brush on underseal is as as about as good as BL's build quality in the late 1970's. I'm surprised they still sell the stuff.

[jonathan_dyane]

It may not be the best system, but I'm moving to a yearly wirebrush of 'problem areas' and a coat of Aldi metal paint. It's easy done and seems to keep things at bay. Waxoyl is a load of shit, Vactan I have had success with in the past but the latest bottle I've got doesn't seem as good as previous bottles.

 

Your XM every time I changed the oil I used to remove the plastic sill door tread cover things and use my oil can to inject 10 shots of oil down each screw hole; XM sills rust from the inside out.

[gordonbennet]

I'm a convert to Bilt Hamber, it's good to work with and the products are very very good, the aerosol probes for squirting the appropriate product in the cavities are superb, no blockages and coverage film even, bear no comparison to the nail in the end of a bit of pipe which is waxoyl's idea of a probe.

 

Not cheap though but fair value in my opinion, cost me near enough £250 in product to coat the Landcruiser chassis (inside and out) plus the whole underside and all available cavities of the shell, doors etc.

 

Used less on the Scooby Outback which is the first car i treated with BH stuff some 3 years ago, its still well covered underneath.

[They_all_do_that_sir]

It may not be the best system, but I'm moving to a yearly wirebrush of 'problem areas' and a coat of Aldi metal paint. It's easy done and seems to keep things at bay. Waxoyl is a load of shit, Vactan I have had success with in the past but the latest bottle I've got doesn't seem as good as previous bottles.

 

Your XM every time I changed the oil I used to remove the plastic sill door tread cover things and use my oil can to inject 10 shots of oil down each screw hole; XM sills rust from the inside out.

I'll give that a go as well then. Might grab some cavity wax, unless used engine oil is as good, I've always plenty around

 

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[Tamworthbay]

I only use bilthamber now, brilliant stuff. Use UB/UC for underside and S50 for cavities.

[richardmorris]

Do wear gloves with used oil. It's thought to be mutagenic now.

[richardmorris]

I only use bilthamber now, brilliant stuff. Use UB/UC for underside and S50 for cavities.

I like bilt hamber too. Have used it in the merc's cavities.

[PiperCub]

What Mercs & GB said basically. BH or Dinitrol stuff takes some beating, it's not cheap but does the job properly if you take your time in prepping the surfaces. 

 

Waxoyl underseal is OK-ish, I use it on hacks only to cover small bare metal/de-rusted areas where it does a reasonable job but you need to check it regularly as it's far from perfect. 

[steveo3002]

the black bitumen products are more suited to hiding /covering stuff up 

 

id go with clean it back clean as possible with wire wheels etc ...then a couple of coats of epoxy like jotun jotamastic , if need be overcoat with gloss that way it washes clean year after year and any new rust creeping in can be spotted and dealt with vs being hidden under an inch of black goop

[Lankytim]

DINITROL, I was trying to remember the name earlier, it's really good stuff!

[danthecapriman]

Here's what I do.

 

Do it on a hot day. Park the car in full sun and jack it up high at one end. Lay out your chosen wax and underseals in the sun. Let it all get nice and warm.

I use Dynax waxes etc and various brands of stonechip paints and primers. I also try to wear a pair of those paper disposable overalls.

 

Under the car, any old paint etc that's damaged or peeling and any rusty patches needs cleaning back to sound material. For rust I get an angle grinder with a flap disc or wire wheel. Any pitted rust left afterwards can be painted with rust converter.

Once it's all sound and clean, use etch primer and/or zinc primer to cover any bare metal. Then I put a coat of stonechip paint over the whole lot. Chassis legs, floorpans etc etc, it's strong and doesn't chip off so it's a good base for anything else.

Once that's dry I inject cavity wax into all box sections, sills etc etc. Because the car is jacked up at one end it's sloping one way so as you squirt the wax in it all runs downhill inside the panels. Also, if it's a hot day the car warms up and the wax thins and soaks into all the seams and panel joints as it runs inside the panels. It's probably not essential to do it like this but I find it gets the wax to cover internal surfaces much better.

After the box sections and cavitys are done go over the stonechip on the floors and chassis with some thicker wax like Dynax UB. This will stop any moisture sitting anywhere.

I also take the interior door trims, quarter trims etc etc off afterwards and spray cavity wax into all the cars panels inside, then let it run down and soak in.

 

It takes a while to do and you get filthy doing it but it's a long lasting way to protect the cars underside.

[JeeExEll]

^^ Thorough job there Dan. As usual

[danthecapriman]

^^ Thorough job there Dan. As usual

I get OCD about shit like that!

It's a job I've got to do on the Volvo yet actually.

 

I'm not doing it on the Capri though. That's going to have the entire underfloor area sprayed with that flexi stonechip stuff modern cars get. Then it's getting painted along with the rest of the body in body colour Miami blue. Not quite as hard wearing or water repellent but it'll look awesome! Plus, that cars going to get an easy sheltered life once it's home!

[sierraman]

Finnegans Underseal with added Waxoyl. The trick is treating any rust present before you chuck it on. Gives a nice finish as well. I do this then give a coat of Waxoyl over the top.

[somewhatfoolish]

I also try to wear a pair of those paper disposable overalls.

 

He speaks the truth; don't wear anything you can't afford to bin afterwards as the stuff doesn't wash out.

[cpjitservices]

Found a tinny of this in the garage, have put a dab on the rusty spots of the Rover for now until I get a more permanent solution.

 

https://marinestore.co.uk/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MD370126&Category_Code=misc--oils-and-greases&Store_Code=mrst&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzqb91aaO1QIVQ7XtCh2u6AAxEAQYAyABEgKn6fD_BwE

 

Seems ok like....Painted it on for now.

[stripped fred]

Another vote here for for bilt hamber. Great stuff and worth doing properly if it's a keeper.