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Diesel Tinkering


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Posted

Following successful Shitefest thread hijack.

 

Last post in that thread:

 

TD5 has unit injection like a VAG PD engine sadly.
Should we have a diesel tinkering thread?

 

Potential other topics for discussion.

XUD9 tuning

VAG tuning

mechanical fuel pumps

 

Question from me. Would the Shitpeas 305 take well to tuning given it's a XUD?

Posted

We may need to split knowledge into n/a and Boosted?

 

This could be great..

Posted

I had to resort to computer tuning on the family car as 140hp just isn't enough,

one thing I would recommend is upgrading everything else as well, I now have slight clutch slip in 4th under heavy acceleration

Posted

With later VAG dizzle tuning swapping the dmf for a solid flywheel is generally advised as the stock dmf tends not to last too long.

Posted

Would the Shitpeas 305 take well to tuning given it's a XUD?

Not really, as it is. (N/A 1.7, Lucas-fail pump.)

What it wants is a Bosch-pumped 1.9 intercooled turbo from a 306 or something, and take it from there. It'll be a 99% bolt-in job, done in a weekend.

If I were to have a Peugeot, that'd be what I'd have. Lovely.

Posted

Well this time next year I reckon I'll have an xud turbo engine as FathaRuff's dispatch is looking rather tender underneath...

 

The engine in that goes like stink...

Posted

Not really, as it is. (N/A 1.7, Lucas-fail pump.)

 

I imagine the max fuel screw could be adjusted and pump timing checked and moved up a bit?

Posted

Bosch pumps on sweet blown engines such as the VW LT lump when stuffed under a 7/940 bonnet has to be one of the most satisfying to fiddle with.

 

Loosen fuelling lock nut, screw in thread half a turn, retighten lock nut.

First gear full throttle should see you smoke the bastards out, if it doesn't screw it in another half a turn...seriously though you could fine tune those to perfection and they sounded wondrous.

 

Not keen on these remapping jobbies.

  • Like 1
Posted

Other than repurposing as a boat-anchor, is any malarkey possible with a 2.0HDi 90?

Posted

Other than repurposing as a boat-anchor, is any malarkey possible with a 2.0HDi 90?

**cough**

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOiIlRFDVe4

 

K&N Filter, Stage 1 remap. 117bhp @ 3500 & 206lbft @ 2200rpm, deleted cat, deleted EGR, sounds like a class 20, moves like a scalded cat, handles like a whale

  • Like 3
Posted

FFFFFFEEEEECCCCCCCCKKKKKKKK!!!!!!!!!!

 

Where do I sign?

 

:D

Posted

Go have a chat with Kitch, its his ex-barge, he did all the tinkering.

Trouble with the HDi is it does rely on a large chunk of electronic pishing about rather than tweaking the boost and wastegate.

Posted

Also re: HDis, there are 2 kinds of management, Bosch = easy to remap with eBay lead, and Siemens = specialist only bench flashing malarkey.

 

My berlingo is Siemens.

 

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

Posted

Looking at supercharger son eBay again. Boy, they've come down in price. A question for the merc boys. Is there a "clutch" on the end of a merc supercharger? If so, is it only a case of giving it a feed for it to work?

Posted

If i may slightly hijack this thread, it seems to be where the xud boys are...

 

Over the last few weeks ive noticed a louder than average rattle coming from the belt side of my engine on idle. Gets louder with revs...

 

The car has also had a speed consistent ticking noise (clicking/ticking) from the front drivers side, which ive always pit down to a loose wire or something bangong about. Any coincidence?

 

If its a known issue id like to put it righ.. .

Posted

I need someone local to have a look at mine, I wouldn't know where to start..

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Posted

Looking at supercharger son eBay again. Boy, they've come down in price. A question for the merc boys. Is there a "clutch" on the end of a merc supercharger? If so, is it only a case of giving it a feed for it to work?

 

I spoke to someone who souped up his Lexus IS200 with one of those Merc superchargers, he had the clutch operated on a switch inside the car.

 

If i may slightly hijack this thread, it seems to be where the xud boys are...

 

Over the last few weeks ive noticed a louder than average rattle coming from the belt side of my engine on idle. Gets louder with revs...

 

The car has also had a speed consistent ticking noise (clicking/ticking) from the front drivers side, which ive always pit down to a loose wire or something bangong about. Any coincidence?

 

If its a known issue id like to put it righ.. .

 

Could be a number of things, pop the covers off and have a look at it.

Posted

Ive got a constant ticking, but mine is a worn injector.

Posted

Well this time next year I reckon I'll have an xud turbo engine as FathaRuff's dispatch is looking rather tender underneath...

 

The engine in that goes like stink...

 

Later Dispatches are much harder to tune than the 306 XUDs (coz modern)

HDI and DW engine codes are the modern variants of the XUD and much more complicated because of emissions blah blah. HDi and DW came in in the late 90s, around 97/98 IIRC.

 

I imagine the max fuel screw could be adjusted and pump timing checked and moved up a bit?

 

On the Lucas pump this is possible, but your better off with a Bosch for fine tuning and veg :)

 

Looking at supercharger son eBay again. Boy, they've come down in price. A question for the merc boys. Is there a "clutch" on the end of a merc supercharger? If so, is it only a case of giving it a feed for it to work?

 

Electro-mechanical, cuts in/out at certain RPMs. Most larger Eaton superchargers have it. As Laquer Peel said, it can be wired to an on/off switch. (A red air-craft style one with a flip up cover of course

8) )

 

If i may slightly hijack this thread, it seems to be where the xud boys are...

 

Over the last few weeks ive noticed a louder than average rattle coming from the belt side of my engine on idle. Gets louder with revs...

 

The car has also had a speed consistent ticking noise (clicking/ticking) from the front drivers side, which ive always pit down to a loose wire or something bangong about. Any coincidence?

 

If its a known issue id like to put it righ.. .

 

Rattle will likely be the the alternator belt tensioner. Looks like a lollipop, easy to change. Best way to check it is to remove the belt and spin the tensioner pulley. If there is ANY rattling or ANY bearing noise it will be on its way out. Its is no big deal when they seize, just a big stinking cloud of grey smoke and a shredded belt - and no alternator till you get it fixed.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alternator-Belt-Tensioner-Peugeot-306-405-406-605-806-Expert-Partner-1-9-2-1-TD-/291431973846?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43dab303d6

Linky ^^. That's not a bad price but keep looking around.

My motor factor said it is a common problem, the trick is not to tighten the belt too much - just enough to stop it squeaking. Tight belts put waaaaaay too much strain on the tensioner. I had two tensioners go within a month because the belts were too tight. Followed his advice and 6 months later it is fine, just had to tighten it up once which is an easy 5 minute job with a 6mm allen key.

 

Not sure about the ticking - could be any manner of things. Is it loud?

  • Like 1
Posted

Ooh will look at tht, thanks.

 

Its fairly loud. Gets drowned out easily by opening the window or turning the music up.

 

Will investigate the hbol on how to get the belt off,, cheers!

Posted

Its fairly loud. Gets drowned out easily by opening the window or turning the music up.

 

 

The true shitters fix for all manner of ills

  • Like 2
Posted

I am now having visions of a ZX with a bonnet scoop and a supercharger connected to a button atop the gearstick

Posted

Right, should we get a semblance of order here?

 

Non PD tdi= Bosch electic pump-remap, evry mod and nozzles can be swapped for more power. ok on veg

VAG td= Bosch mech pump- max fuel adjustment, boost pin reprofiling and wastegte adjustments for more power. ok on veg

 

XUD=

 

 

ETC?

Posted

Right, should we get a semblance of order here?

 

Non PD tdi= Bosch electic pump-remap, evry mod and nozzles can be swapped for more power. ok on veg

VAG td= Bosch mech pump- max fuel adjustment, boost pin reprofiling and wastegte adjustments for more power. ok on veg

 

XUD=

 

 

ETC?

Gosh I wish life was that simple.

As long as people give an engine code and what type of injection pump they have in their posts it should be fairly self explanitory!

Posted

Gosh I wish life was that simple.

As long as people give an engine code and what type of injection pump they have in their posts it should be fairly self explanitory!

Just most threads on this lot turn into hunners of posts asking loads of similar questions (I'm likely cranky after wading through endless tdi posts!)

Posted

As far as i can see my ALH tdi lump can be taken from 90 to 110 bhp by swapping the injector nozzles from 0.184 to 0.205.

 

After that a remap sould see some additional gains. (Wonder if a remap+EVRY mod would work?)

 

After that its really turbo swap time- ones off pd150s seem cheap enough.

 

 

Also, the car has 185k on it- i assume an egr/inlet clean can only be a good thing?

Posted

No idea about EVRY + remap, but I was lead to believe a blacksmoke (or similar) remap is about the limit of what the engine will safely produce without other mods.

 

Don't bother cleaning the EGR, blank it off with a plate or remove and fit an EGR delete. Plates can be made or £3 ebay, EGR delete is around £50.

I like the EGR delete as it removes other stuff, ASV, N19? and lots of vac hoses. I fitted one as my ASV was faulty, and it was cheaper to fit that than buy a new ASV. If you do remove the EGR it's worth cleaning the turbo with Mr. Muscle whilst you're there.

 

My next move will prob be .216 injectors and intercooler upgrade + hard intercooler pipes. Which will still be keeping everything looking stock ;)

 

I think there is supposed to be a performance increase with a pd150 inlet manifold, and wouldn't the exhaust manifold need to be changed with the turbo?

 

Oh, and if going for more power on one of these I think other things may need to be changed/improved ... handling & brakes for a start.

Posted

No idea about EVRY + remap, but I was lead to believe a blacksmoke (or similar) remap is about the limit of what the engine will safely produce without other mods.

 

Don't bother cleaning the EGR, blank it off with a plate or remove and fit an EGR delete. Plates can be made or £3 ebay, EGR delete is around £50.

I like the EGR delete as it removes other stuff, ASV, N19? and lots of vac hoses. I fitted one as my ASV was faulty, and it was cheaper to fit that than buy a new ASV. If you do remove the EGR it's worth cleaning the turbo with Mr. Muscle whilst you're there.

 

My next move will prob be .216 injectors and intercooler upgrade + hard intercooler pipes. Which will still be keeping everything looking stock ;)

 

I think there is supposed to be a performance increase with a pd150 inlet manifold, and wouldn't the exhaust manifold need to be changed with the turbo?

 

Oh, and if going for more power on one of these I think other things may need to be changed/improved ... handling & brakes for a start.

Handling and brake upgrades?wheres the fun in that;)

 

Yeah i saw that the pd150 will likely need inlet and exhaust manifold to match. Most turbos on ebay seem to be mounted on their exhaust manifolds, so assuming the manifold matches to the ports/studs on my ALH it should mate up ok

Posted

After that a remap sould see some additional gains. (Wonder if a remap+EVRY mod would work?)

 

EVRY mod is a bid bad BODGE, a variable resistor soldered in line with the fuel temperature sensor to con the ECU into thinking the fuel is warmer i.e. less dense than it actually is, and injecting X% more fuel at all operating points.

 

For your car I would suggest that the .205 nozzles and remap would be enough to give you 130ish bhp and 300Nm torque which is getting to the levels where an upgraded clutch is a good idea.

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