Project I can haz Umm - it's a little broken

[skattrd]

Shock absorber research ... Monroe M4460 and M4461, as mentioned earlier in this thread by MO

 

 

 

Now supseeded by D8460 & D8461, that explains why I couldn't find the M4460/1, I feel like I'm getting somewhere. Next job is to try and find them in stock somewhere on this island.

 

Useful Monroe catalogue link: http://webshop-cs.tecdoc.net/tae/home.jsp

Alternate Umm parts from http://www.umm-world.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/UMM-altnpart.pdf

[skattrd]

Next... Monroe D8461 (Umm rear) equivalent part numbers:

 

MONROE D8461 KAYABA 445038 QUINTON HAZELL LIP179790 ALKO 2.057G GABRIEL G63695 OPTIMAL A2057G

... which are used on 88-94 RRC & P38 RR's. Hang on, these might be quite common and available at my local motor factors instead of from Portugal.

 

The rear shocks from an RRC are used on the front of the Umm, interesting, and I can find the KYB's in stock for £28 each - woohoo.

 

edit: Bumhats, it appears I came across some misinformation. I thought front Rangey shocks on the back of the Umm seemed odd as the front an RRC has a V8 weighing on it and the back of an Umm weighs fukall. It turns out the equivalent parts listed there have pins at the top and bottom and the ones I need have eyes, so the search continues.

 

 

Monroe D8460 - I'm having little success finding, and so far no equivalent part numbers 

edit:

Strangely they appear to be available from Amazon and reasonably priced at £78 for a pair, but 3-6 week delivery http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monroe-D8460-Shock-Absorber-pieces/dp/B00AJUIMGA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1429985566&sr=1-1&keywords=Monroe+D8460

Listed at sks & it says in stock, but I've emailed them about lead time as I don't believe them http://www.skscarparts.co.uk/suspension-shock-absorber-d8460-monroe.html&currency=GBP&language=en?

[skattrd]

More boring shock absorber numbers, mainly posted for future reference.

 

Take 2 at Umm shock equivalent search:

 

Rear

Brand:MONROE Part Number(s):D8461 ProductName:Shock Absorber

Cross Interchange Parts

Factory Number SACHS 110 735 BOGE 30-A06-0 TOYOTA 48531-27110 TOYOTA 48531-80079 KYB 343196 RECORD FRANCE 004253

 

It appears to be also used on a Toyota Liteace van, rear, which seems plausible, it also states top and bottom eye on KYB website, KYB £25 each from factors.

 

Front

MONROE D8460

Cross Interchange Parts

Factory Number MONROE d8460 QUINTO... 179926 RECORD... 004244 RECORD... 334244 GABRIEL 83292 MONROE M4460    

I cannot find any of these in stock anywhere I've tried so far, but I reckon the QH 179926 is probably my best bet, that or the Monroe D8460 from sks as mentioned in the previous post.

 

Amazon surprisingly list QH shocks for the Umm, not in stock of course, but available to order.

QH numbers 179927 & 179926, from the above it looks like 179926 are the front and 7 is the rear.

[skattrd]

Good news, bad news.

 

Good news: my shock absorber research appears to have been good so far. I ordered a pair of KYB 343196 for the rear, and they fit. They are also a bit longer when extended than the ones that were on there (30-55cm) so that's the rear end improved. If the damping isn't enough I'll fit another pair as there are mountings for 2 shocks per side (front & rear).

I have also ordered a pair of Monroe D8460's for the front, which are now down to £67 for a pair from Amazon (3-6 week delivery, Monroe do not stock them).

 

For some reason I took a pic of the shock before fitting, but not after, so here is a picture of a shock absorber on the bench:

 

 

Bad news: the TRE I got for a CJ5 jeep doesn't fit, it's close but not quite. These rod ends appear to be specific to RHD Umms, so not easy to find, but the search continues & machine shop modification is a backup plan. This is what is currently stopping me getting an MOT.

 

The radiator now appears to be leaking a bit at the top. It's mainly copper so the next job (whilst looking for TRE & waiting for shocks) will be to drain coolant and repair the rad, my mechanic reckons a solder repair should do the job on the rad.

[skattrd]

I've just realised that this needs to be legal in 5 weeks for shitefest ...

 

If the new front shocks don't arrive in time I'll double them up by adding the old rears to the current front ones. This should improve the ride as the shocks fitted to front and rear appear to be same, which would explain the ones on the back being too short.

[skattrd]

Update:

Well, after over 2 months my shock absorbers have arrived from Monroe. I'm not complaining about the wait as hopefully these will last the life of the vehicle.

Tomorrow I plan to go and fit the shocks and remove the offending TRE. I shall then be visiting some local machine shops to see if anyone can modify the LHD CJ5 TRE to match the RHD Umm one.

 

I'd forgotten about the leaking rad until I saw the post above, so I suppose I'd better do something about that as well.

 

I now want this ready for Chumley as I failed at Shitefest.

[twosmoke300]

Ha ha ha ha ha Monroe last the life of the vehicle ! Unless it's really rusty and has two years left . Good to hear progress tho

[Ben_O]

I have never seen or heard of these before.

 

When you were talking about picking up umm at the beginning of the thread, i thought you were calling it that to keep what you was collecting a secret

 

Good luck with the MOT

 

Ben

[skattrd]

Minor update and no pics.

It turned out that the old TRE had a taper welded in to the middle of it to, I ground the weld off the top of the taper and then used the press at the garage to push it out. So I have one knackered TRE (with a big hole in the middle of ) a taper and a good TRE with the wrong taper. The CJ5 Jeep TRE (also referred to as the wrong one) is currently at a machine shop having the centre cut out to 20mm wide so the taper that was pressed out of the old one can be welded in to it. The machine shop are charging me £50 to cut out the centre of the TRE but after nearly 6 months of no Umm I have little choice and just want the damn thing back on the road, so I agreed to the price. Buying something to do it myself would cost more than £50, and would not be as good or precise, I want the hole exactly 20mm so the taper fits snugly.

 

Fingers crossed the Umm will have a new MOT in a couple of weeks.

[ruffgeezer]

You've read this I presume? Did SMC not have the TREs? 

 

http://www.umm-world.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/UMM-altnpart.pdf

[skattrd]

Thanks, that was where I got the out of date part numbers for the shocks ... on page 4 it states:

 

 

I have tried two Portugese Umm parts suppliers and the only people I know in the UK who have a stock of Umm parts without luck. As they stopped making and therefore importing Umms about 20 years ago some parts are hard to find. That said, as these were used by Portugese military (and NATO) parts are available for LHD Umms, but LHD Umms have different steering setup to RHD.

 

The track rod end I am getting the centre cut out of is one I had shipped from USA which was originally for a CJ5 jeep. Finding that the old TRE had been modified and a taper welded in makes me believe this was how they originally made them ... modifying CJ5 rod ends from LHD to RHD.

 

 

[billyboy406v6]

Well that is progress, keep up the good work !

[skattrd]

I can haz happy:

 

 

Now, I just need to get the steering box welded in a bit more securely then the Umm should (eventually) be back on the road.

[beko1987]

Did you get 20 made up to future proof you for a few years?

[skattrd]

Did you get 20 made up to future proof you for a few years?

 

erm, no, just the one, which in the end cost about £85.

[ruffgeezer]

Have you driven the 'orrible thing yet?

[brownnova]

It'll all be worth it when its done!!!

[skattrd]

Have you driven the 'orrible thing yet?

 

Yes, but not for the last 6 months, do you want to have a go in it? We can use it for your next collection

 

Since I last drove it it's had 4 new shocks, a rear spring repaired and less knobbly tyres fitted, plus the replacement TRE. It's also got a slightly loose steering box which should be fixed as well. It wasn't a bad drive before, but I'm expecting it to be a lot better next time I drive it.

[skattrd]

Yesterday I fitted the new TRE to the Umm, so it is now steerable. I also decided to try and start it for the first time in about 4 months ..  I hadn't disconnected the battery when I left it and had also left the handbrake on, but the brakes weren't seized and it started second turn of the key, so that made me grin.

 

I have asked the garage to try and get the welding on the steering box mount done this week so that it can be MOT'd asap as my brother wants to go offroading next weekend in Norfolk .... I'm hopeful.

[skattrd]

Oops, over 6 months and no update.

Well, the Umm passed it's MOT at the end of last year and went to visit barmatt in Norfolk.

 

The less said about barmatt's parking the better:

 

 

 

 

 

After winter in Norfolk the Umm is now summering in Lincolnshire, and today I drove it for the first time this year. It's ace, and noisy and horrible.

 

 

[Lacquer Peel]

Is it good off road?

[skattrd]

Is it good off road?

 

It was ok, but the day we went offroading it was incredibly muddy and I didn't put the off road wheels on, because I had 100 miles of road to drive first.

The 4wd definitely works as do the locking/free-wheel hubs.

 

After a few more repairs I reckon I'll have another bash at offroading it, this time with the proper tyres on it.

[beko1987]

Ummazing!

[quicksilver]

Is this coming to Shitefest? Please say it is as I don't think I've ever seen one in the flesh.

[skattrd]

Is this coming to Shitefest? Please say it is as I don't think I've ever seen one in the flesh.

 

 

After the Umm failed to make it to SF and Chumley last year I am hoping to use it for both this year.

 

I was planning to get the rad fixed and a brace welded in around the steering box to make it more robust before SF, but I have a feeling that if I take the rad off next weekend other faults will be discovered and Shitefest attendance will fail (again). So I reckon more tape will be used on the rad and my co-pilot will be a gallon of coolant.

[skattrd]

 

Whilst driving in to work today I was thinking about the steering again. it's not great, and has a bit of a crap lock. 

Apparently RHD Umms use the Land Rover 6-bolt steering box, does anyone have any experience of these? can they cause issues? are they easy to rebuild/refurb?

[Lacquer Peel]

Land Rovers have a crap steering lock (turning circle) as well. My friend looking into rebuilding his 130's steering box but buying a new one was easier.

[skattrd]

I think I might look in to replacing the steering box then when I get the welding done in that area.

[fatharris]

^{Lovely, there's one of these in a fetching pinkish desert camo colour in Cornwall, that's been sat for a while but it does seem to be getting worked on slowly.}

[skattrd]

One for the PSA apologists ... can anyone tell me what this stalk is originally from. My guess would be Pug 505/504

It's my wiper stalk and a bit temperamental.

 

 

 

Note to self: Rainx windscreen just in case switch stops working